I'm fine with how the gearboxes are. engine swaps are also not simulated.

sure. have it player-controlled too.
...and watch the chaos ensue

so, this thread changed its purpose to "reintroduction for old-timers" ?
...although I was never that active, I think.

Hi.

Quote from Technique :

That is a weird question How else would you downshift for a turn?

you could brake, then shift?
I'm asking because if I downshift in the sequential cars without using the clutch, while braking, the turbo makes quite a weird sound. Or is it supposed to do that?

I could make a replay if its not clear what I mean...

Quote from der butz :

that happened to me too after half a year.
If you have some spray grease or oil with that long plastic nozzle thing on it, just put it down the pedal rods and lube it up. I live in silence since 3 1/2 years now :-)

greetz

der butz

thanks for the advice.

Gotta love the force feedback abilities; I actually had to lower the settings to calm the thing down a bit. It's got quite a lot of force in there.
It's probably also the only wheel in the universe that fits perfectly on my desk, due to the large clamp with adjustable "pads". Because of that it's also no hassle to set up (a huge pro for me; I used to have a Formula T2 (semi-long ago) and it was always such a hassle to set the thing up correctly, and then the mandatory calibrating session after that).

Finally, because all my computer equipment is in the same color, it blends in nicely (then again, black/silver is very common these days for about any electronical device .. still a lot better than the toy-ish look of the ferrari wheels, though)

(on a weird side note.. what's up with TM's site.. that must be one of the worst sites I've ever seen from a brand which is that known)

Last edited by Samor, Mon, 21 Apr 2008 18:07.

maybe a weird question, but completing a shift while keeping the brake pedal depressed seems to be a bad thing to do, no?

hm well, one shift is not a problem, going multiple gears down is where it feels awkward (because you don't have to cycle through gears with an H-shifter)
...although I guess if you use the XRR or FXR and use the clutch, one'd still be doing the same thing.

Last edited by Samor, Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:56.

I have gotten myself a Thrustmaster RGT wheel, which has has a sequential shifter, and a clutch pedal. For the sequential shifter cars, I have the clutch enabled.

I also tried this with the H-shifter cars, but I found this to be quite difficult when having to downshift multiple gears for corners.

Is it good practice to try and learn it? Or is it increasingly difficult because one isn't really supposed to drive like that?

Thans for the advice, all..

The G25 is excellent, no doubt, but due to the price and the fact I'm just switching from pad to wheel, it might be a bit early/too much to go with one.. I can always decide to go for one later, depending on how things turn out.

So, I settled for the RGT. Impressions are really good so far, except that the gas pedal went "squeeky" on me (sound) in just one day of usage.

Quote from jonny__27 :

Samor the prices here are a bit different:

G25 - 250€. There is a store around here that sells it for 220€, but i don't hear good things about it.

Momo -150€

RGT - 120€

the others are pretty much the same.


And i'm looking for a wheel too. as i can´t buy the G25, my choice is the RGT

I've seen the SRT review - http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=41732
...and I'm also thinking of getting the RGT now...

I see.... so much I still have to learn
Thanks

but, if anyone has used both... this, or the logitech momo?

Last edited by Samor, Thu, 17 Apr 2008 19:13.

the idea of a clutch + sequential shifter seems odd to me.

quality-wise, is this wheel much better than the TM Ferrari GT 2 in 1 (force feedback version)?
I saw both in a store; the GT 2 in 1 is almost half the price and I don't know if I really need a clutch if it doesn't come with a H-shifter...

in LFS I have music turned off, I need the engine sounds to guide me

In more arcade-style racers, I prefer it on.

Quote from Electrik Kar :

I imagine keys would be best. TM isn't really a driving game, its more of a twitch/memory/puzzle game.

I used keys for a long time, but switched to analog gamepad because the analog steering gave me a slight advantage in cornering.
As simple as the game is, there's still the advantage in analog controls.

Busy, busy... so I didn't get that wheel yet, but I did some searching. That guide is nice, but there's many wheels I don't see for sale here, such as the DFP and the blue logitech wheel....


Wheels I've spotted in a nearby store:

Logitech G25 - sweet as always, of course, and 230 euros. ouch.

Logitech MOMO - good looking, still quite pricey at 140 euros.

TM RGT - I kept wondering how common it is to have an up/down shifter in combination with a clutch... are there real cars that have that? ...anyway, 130 euros.

Logitech Formula Force (the red logitech wheel) - I don't really have an idea how it is. 80 euros.

TM Ferrari wheel (various versions) - One of them had mentioned on the box that it has Force Feedback, whereas the others just had Vibration Feedback. The FF one costs 70 euros.

Everything else I saw was vibration feedback stuff from unknown/cheap brands which I wouldn't go for. I never saw the DFP.


Now, the TM Ferrari interests me because it's cheap, I know it'll fit on my desk and I like the shift levers. The advantage of those wheels is the large clamp to mount it to a table; the small clamps on the logitech wheels don't work for my desk, since it has a "beam" (is that the correct word for it?) in the way. I have once used a similar (same?) TM Ferrari wheel on a Dreamcast (but without FF). Seemed to be fine.
Sure, the RGT has a clutch, but it doesn't have a proper shifter.... I think that makes the clutch a bit unnescesary? However, maybe it's a lot better than the cheaper TM wheel otherwise.. anyone who can tell me what the Force Feedback Ferrari wheel from TM is like (I believe it's called GT 2-in-1 because it also works on a PS2)?

Last edited by Samor, Thu, 17 Apr 2008 03:47. Reason : added info

I'm well aware the G25 is the best out there, but the price confirms it too....
what would be the second-best wheel to go for? The Thrustmaster RGT looks good to me (and was quite a bit cheaper where I looked) but if it turns out to be worse than a Logitech Momo, I'd better settle for that one (cheaper too).....
I prefer new, I don't like second-hand...

changing controls will cause worse driving at first, usually...

I'm still on a gamepad (have almost always been, actually)... I know it's not quite ideal, but I have my reasons. Depending on certain factors, I might switch to a wheel, perhaps even in the near future.
Some changes in previous patches, and the fact I switched pads a while ago also made me much worse than before, so sucking after a controller change (or a patch change) isn't so weird to happen. If I connect a wheel right now I would be terrible but in time I'd probably love it and wouldn't want to go back. I also tried keyboard/mouse but I can't handle that at all, whereas other people would probably be surprised at how I'd be able to handle the game with a gamepad at all.

As for my thoughts on the new patch... I noticed one can do very evil things very easily now, with those jpg adverts (see attachment)....

The skinning stuff is awesome in Forza 2 (prolly the best part)... but we can do that with LFS, no? We just need an increase in wacky skins

I see this guide is now marked "obsolete", but with a few small updates it would actually be fine and still useful for many people.
I'd think adding the latest improvent (analog steer smooth 0.95) and a bit of info about what deadzone removal does might do the trick....

Just want to say thanks for discussing this and posting control improvement suggestions. I'm also a gamepad user (I have my reasons to not use a wheel as well) and yes, even if it's weird, I like to play LFS with just that.
Because my old pad was worn I went through a variety of different ones recently to find something good again. All the details aside, I ended up with using a Dreamcast pad with a DC->PC pad converter. I found these have the best accuracy (perfect centering for one) and I kind of like using triggers for gas/brake nowadays instead of the dual-stick setup. However, trying to drive the Raceabout with a pad is still....

Quote from SpikeyMarcoD :

I think its an improvement that AI not automatically repair and make best of car. Within the limits of current AI they solve most pileups (although it take time). Problems arise if they flip over it seems.

Seems so; I experienced a huge AI pile-up on fern bay's rallycross track (with untrained PRO AI) and more than half of the AI remained stuck because they were either up-side down, stuck on a hill or (somewhat)closed in (It was funny to see them all fly at the same spot, though). I think only 5 out of 19 or so managed to finish the 3-lap race.... the cars being a combination of XRT's, RB4's and FXO's.

Quote from March Hare :

When does driving become drifting?
What is the limit -for the slipangle of the tire- when racing becomes drifting?

I have always wondered about this.

I have driven on servers where there is that counter for drift points. Although I have drifted almost every corner I haven't got any points. Atleast I think I was drifting. I can hear and feel the tail sliding and I come through the corner with my front already facing the direction the track takes after the corner. But every time I loose control I get +xyz points. Go figure

That reminds me I was on a server this weekend and I got points for losing control all the time =P
...... so, that's drifting?

Quote from CSU1 :

Hi Samor chech here http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=370167#post370167

I see, the fact I'm not noticing any difference is a good thing then, I guess.

Seems to be common then... switched to a 360 pad (wired) lately as well, and it has more center travel than my previous analogue pad (which had next to none). On the other hand, the shoulder triggers give much better gas/brake control than a dual stick setup. Still getting used to things, but I can drive the RAC with this pad, so that ain't too bad, I guess.

Anyway, travel or not, the instructions in the first post definately help make things more playable. And analog steer smooth set at 80 (misc options) appears to be the optimal setting for this particular pad.
But, wireless 360 controller? I didn't know the wireless ones worked under Windows....

I've come here because I have a question, though:
What exactly does the option "remove deadzones" do? I don't seem to be noticing any control differences with it turned off or on, not with this pad, and not with the previous one. Since LFS doesn't have any other settings for deadzones, how exactly is it "removing" them?

Last edited by Samor, Sun, 29 Apr 2007 17:48.

it's not a matter of a "point of view" - I happened to be at the Redline server yesterday and my eyes did not deceive me; that was cheating if I ever saw it.