Quote from The Very End :

...
The most frustrating part is that NO ONE brakes, if there is an accident everyone goes full speed and causes abnormall pile-ups from hell. ...

Actually, this is most likely a misunderstanding.

People start to brake when they see trouble ahead - At this point, due to that pesky physics thing, it's already too late - You cannot decelerate fast enough - delta V + x is your car (due to reaction time) and delta V is the car in front. Also the decreasing speed curves intersect even if you do brake at exactly the same moment.

So, you have to leave a gap which compensates for those two factors. However, to maintain that gap, you have to brake early, leading to tailgaters getting rather a shock.

There's no way around this, really. Mixed skill racing is a difficult thing.

It was not deleted, but merged. Thread lock imminent

Quote from MadCatX :

FFB will never work under Linux unless you have proper driver for your wheel/joystick/whatever. Because penguin-powered machines aren't usually meant like gaming machines, hardware manufacturers don't bother themselves by making extra Linux drivers for their gaming devices(many modifications for each distribution would have to be made, and that means a lot of unnecessary work to do).

http://kernelnewbies.org/Linux ... 8fcab5c076ba2ce2671e22992

It's coming

Of course, now Wine needs some more work

Cheers,

Allan.

There also seems to be some misunderstanding of what "soft clipping" actually refers to.

Hard clipping can be represented in the worst case as a sound looking like:


Note that the transitions are vertical. This causes a large amount of additional high frequency 'transition' noise in itsself - the speakers literally stop with a bang. Also, it causes reverberations in the speaker cone itsself. In the worst case, this can destroy speakers.

Soft clipping makes the above picture look like:


Which is much less hard on the speakers and creates less distortion, through 'curving' the top and bottom of the digital signal slightly - The actual value used is usually 1-2 bits of resolution, so has little impact on the actual sound.

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Shotglass :

i know this is a bit of a thread hijack but it might still help scawen to work out the sound system a little better
is there anybody here who can explain why ears would soft clip ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cochlea

Not a quote, but:

The ear is an analog system, with (effectively) a inverse log (however you would describe it) response to sound pressures at different frequencies. Therefore, the 'signal' recieved by the brain has very little differentiation between "loud" and "very loud" as compared to "quiet" and "normal".

Very loud is mostly not heard, but felt throughout the body.

Clipping is an artifact of representing an analog (boundless) signal in a digitally limited space. This obviously doesn't apply in a biological system except in the most extreme cases.

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Scawen :

Well the "send error report" is silly yes because MS can't fix a bug in LFS

I'm sure you already know this, but that's not quite the point of error reporting. Iff your application is signed (can't be self-signed, actually needs a trusted cert), you (as the application developer) can get much fuller detail than is provided on-screen to the user.

http://msdn.microsoft.com/isv/resources/wer/

Cheers,

Allan.

Okay, so not everyone has time to read through all the threads to see what is 'official'. Is this too stalkerish:

http://www.lfsforum.net/search.php?do=finduser&u=43

And is there a way anyone can think of to get an RSS of it?

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Scawen :

Don't worry - I had my reasons why I had to do a morning's work today.

The afternoon I spent working on the roof gutters of my house, it's time to replace the leaking iron gutters with some nice new plastic ones.

Huh?

Pictures, damnit! We demand pictures!

Cheers,

Allan.

Part of the issue is I believe also related to the wheel used. In a 'real life' situation, the front wheels will tend to track the direction of the slide - This can be a quite violent action.

In LFS, the wheel is limited in the speed it can actually turn due to forces that are exerted in-game.

Might be an idea to check how much this actually affects things by setting a really small steering angle - Although this may be somewhat hard to control / quantify

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Cue-Ball :

He did mention "in single player". I think this would be acceptable. If the damage model in LFS ever gets anywhere near realistic, I would want the option to turn it off too. This would be nice for times when I want to let friends run a few laps, or when I want to put in a lot of laps, trying different lines, without worrying about going back to the pits after every little mishap.

In single-player, if you recover your car, it gets auto-repaired.

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from DownShift :

i was racing with the FOX and i would draft the hell out of some one but it doesnt do anything at all for me, but wen some one drafts me... they may as well have a booster.... <unnecessary language removed>

Drafting was modelled incorrectly before patch S. It has been reduced since then to be more in-line with reality. You need to be much closer to the car in front to get any effect.

Calling people names and generally acting up on a forum is _not_ the way to get good, reasoned responses. Please, attempt to be civil.

Quote from ORION :

Hmm more info from the guru

http://www.liveforspeed.net/guru.html

the image is named "geniusloci.jpg"

interesting

New car!!! New car!!! Gotta be

F1?

Quote from Dethred :

Oh please let there be better sound. Who gives a *@&$ about Night racing etc? Better sound is needed.

<SARCASM MODE=dripping>Yeah. Without it, how does LFS compete with such ear-candy as netKar PRO gives?</SARCASM>

Close to the position... Not quite, but close. The skin's not default, either.
http://www.s2r.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Screenshot%20-%20S2.JPG

Quote from nmanley :

Get a different girl friend. There are plenty in the world that won't be such a PAIN. Only do what a girlfriend say's to do in BED. NO EXCEPTIONS!

Uhuh. And how's that working out for you?

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Scirocco :

Condition: Unwanted gift. Minimally used, reboxed and stored. I'm always a bit weary of sellers with differing item descriptions. Other than that, the wheel looks nice.

Well, technically, it's true. Just didn't want to get into the politics of it on ebay

Cheers,

Allan.

Mods: If this is unacceptable use of the forums, please remove it!

My Girlfriend just learned how much my Momo Red cost me. So, now I've been "asked" to sell it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayI ... wItem&item=8752128864


Cheers,

Allan.

Hey, it's not - But I'm sure it's close

http://web.archive.org/web/200 ... 38/lfs.bhmotorsports.com/

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Hmmmmm... As I don't really know how much room you have I'll suggest this. Get a pair of mole grips, and put them around the pipe, but loose (i.e. not gripping the pipe, but small enough so it won't slide over the 'olive'. Then tap (or hit) the mole grips with a hammer so it pushes on the olive and slides it off the end.

Don't do this!!!

You'll likely fracture a joint at another place in the pipe. These things are designed to sit for years and _never move_. Not to have people hit on them in random ways.

You've already probably got this fixed, however:

As has been suggested already, cut out the offending section (A small wheel based pipe cutter is best for this) and replace it. If you're soldering (honestly, this is the easiest option) remember to get all the water you can out of as long a section of pipe as you can. A thin tube and a wet / dry vac works wonders for this.

Use pre-soldered straight couplers. Sand the ends of the tube until it's clean copper (Wire wool works best for this), apply flux to the pipe (make sure it's water soluble flux if this is your drinking water supply) place the coupler over the pipe and the new section of pipe. Be sure you've measured everything up beforehand, and pre-assembled the other side of the stopcock. You need to then "gently force" the pipes into an assembled position. Don't yank it - That way lies employing a professional to fix what's now causing the nice fountain over your wife's kitchen floor.

Once everything's in place, just heat the joint until you see solder (very slightly) showing on the ends of the coupler. Make sure both sides of the joint are molten. Don't heat the copper too much, however - Red is bad

Once the joint is done, let it cool slowly. Don't turn the water on until you can touch it comfortably is a good guideline. This lets the joint be much less brittle than if you were to suddenly quench it.

You don't need a big torch to do this job - Standard propane works well, as long as the pipe has no water near it. You may find a "soldering mat" useful. This stops the torch flame from burning anything around the joint that you might care about. All of the bits you need are at B&Q, or any other home maintanance type store.

Some cats also are not intimidated by torches. Be careful

Don't be tempted to use plastic pipe to do this repair - Yes, it's much easier, however, you loose a major portion of your equipotential wiring in your house (Earth wiring, in common parlance). An earth strap would have to be _very_ substantial to fix this. And I'm pretty sure it would violate the IEEE wiring rules.

If in doubt, hire a professional - If everything goes pear-shaped, they (hopefully) have insurance to cover damages.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Allan.

Last edited by Dibblah, Sun, 11 Sep 2005 21:44.

Quote from Mounthy :

or maybe at the LFS site
If you have a LFS license
you get a 30$ discount if you buy it via
https://www.liveforspeed.net
(click on license status, top right)

afaik, it works also through some european shops this way.

For anyone in the UK that's been searching for a way to get this discount, eDimensional now ships from the UK, AND honors the discount code. Go get!

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from Cue-Ball :

Any real life car that has a rev limiter will not be damaged by leaving the throttle to the floor when upshifting. Drag racers leave the hammer to the floor for the whole run and it has no ill effects.

You do realise that the drag car engines are rebuilt after just about every race, don't you?

Cheers,

Allan.

Quote from danowat :

I don't know, it's just that whacking a friggin great wing on a small hatchback looks a bit ricer to me..........

I never said rF was "no good", I just said it wasnt as good as LFS , there is a BIG difference between those 2 statements.

Dan.

... Don't forget that's a front wheel drive hatchback.

Cheers,

Allan.

Another suggestion is to stop things that are running in the background. For me, Trillian (yes, really) was causing this.

Cheers,

Allan.