Quote from DarkKostas :

Possibly you have .vob mods. Remove them!

As far as i know i don't have Vob mods. I keep 2 LFS installed. One just for VOB mods and tweaking for offline use, and one LFS with only some texture mods, but it has always worked like a charm untill Z28. When I upgraded to the test patches it stopped working. But I've downloaded the zip file again and am going to install an immaculate original version to test it out.

I'm getting "OOS" and "Lost Synck with the Host" since Z.32.

Tried at a few servers and simetimes it goes lost sync and enters again automatically, but when I choose my car and go to the track, i get OOS and lost sync again.

Quote from hazaky :

Set "Mipmap Detail Level" to "High Quality" in ur ATi Catalyst settings and ur good to go

BINGO !

Thank you very much dude...

There are the screens... you can see that the car is OK, and the virtual gauge is also ok. But the grass, gravel, chalklines, tarmac,, curbs... all very blurry.

I use LFS on Windows XP 32bit for like forever and the graphics looked as good as it should be, considering my hardware limitations at each time. recently I bought a ATI HD 5770 and some more RAM memory and decided to finally upgrade do Windows 7 64bit ( since I have a 64x2 AMD processor ). So, I tried LFS the first time after thew update and the graphics are crappy. The miniatures of the cars on the pit menu are all blurry and so are the textures of the tracks. The skins and some interior dds are just fine, but the textures on the tracks like tarmac, grass, gravel pit,, and so on are all blurry. Can anyone help me please ?

I admit that I'm trying not to, but iRacing is really almost taking me away from LFS... the lack of updates and apparent abandon from the devs is what bothers me the most.

Yeah, thumbs up for that. Since LFS is getting this "real life" thing about limited sets and stuff, i think the HB adjustment should come back, since every car has this nowadays.

I use it mostly not to screw up whern I don't entirely know the track, and after like 2 or 3 laps i use it only for braking point sugestions... because that's when you start finding your own ideal racing line.

@1303s_vortech

Do you know how to use progressbars ? Round ones like the one you're using in this MRT set ?

Because I'm interested in making a S2000 gauge for a long time but just don't know how to do it...

S2000 AP1


S2000 AP2

define "isn't working well"... it works sometimes ? it doesn't work at all ? because it can be a lot of things...

Quote from adin :

RPM light isnt working well in other programs (like Digital Speedo http://www.lfsforum.net/showth ... 054&highlight=Digital) too

someone should fix it even though the cars in which the rpm light isnt removed

Are you using Z20 ? because ins z19 or z20 they emoved the shift light from roadcars... so it might be the reason.

Quote from 1303s_vortech :

I hope the author won't mind if I re-upload it...

All credits goes to Dudles, I just added the .dll of 1.0.

hehehe thx for the credit...

flaming bananas ? anyone ?

recalibrate... sometimes it happens... but be shure you turn the wheel all the way to both sides...

@ 1303s Vortech

when you have some spare time... maybe... if you wan't, could you make me an Ariel Atom gauge set ?

http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332 ... m/ariel.atom.dash.500.jpg

Only Pic i've found. Just know that it's a " SPA electronic twin dial instrument pack"

Took one more print to show my return system. Supressed all th parts that were disposable in this print so you can see better... my idea was to put 2 anchor points in the main axle and 2 in the bottom part of the leaver so i could hook 2 pre-loaded extension springs in each way ( did only 2 instead of 4 sprins just to show my idea ). In the print you'll undersand better than my explanation.

comments are welcome.

I've improoved a little the project conearning the center-return spring system... gonna use pre-loaded springs as said before. About the neutral issue, got my other steering, configured it's 6 buttons as gears in a shifter on LFS, and confirmed what I've said earlier. When you have no button pressed, it's in neutral. The fabbing should take a while because i use the college's lab to fab some pieces, and i'm on the break at college... gonna return in midle march, so I have a little time to finish projecting and start the fab process... need some help about the buttons connections tho... have no clue how to hook them to the USB universal controller...

Quote from spankmeyer :

Simple 4-way spring system should do the trick.

Thought about that but using like some kind of rubber band... just because of the bendind and warping problem.

I think I can come with a solution... gonna work on this a little more... talking about the gears, o thought about doing only 6+R, but the effort is the same... gonna think about supressing 1 gear...

i'm a newbie in this game too ( the game of DIY ).. i have no idea what will i need becxause i know nothing about electronics, só i can figure just the hardware stuff ( the leaver, the plates, the box, and stuff...) the electrical part i'm a total loss... but if i take this further, i'll make this thread a diary of the progress...

The thing is... i believe LFS understands a gear in shifter asa button constantly pressed. So if a gear is engaged in the shifter, and the leaver is pressing a button, there's a gear engaged in the game. So the moment you get the leaver off the gear, it's in neutral. So even if i don't use springs ( wich I'm trying not to ) if there's no gear engaged, it's gonna be neutral... even if the leaver is jst lying to the side with no gear on.

1 - Do not intend to make for sell purpose, jst want to make to enjoy myself since i can't afford a ACT one.
2 - The gear leaver is going to stay pressing the buttn because a magnet will press the leaver against the button using a iron plate near the button.
3 - The spring system i didn't came to anything yet. accepting suggestions.

Created this thead because i decided to make my own H-Shifter like i think a dozen ppl have decided too. Since i live in Brazil, G25 are too expensive here ( about US$600 ) and ACT labs shifter are to expensive to import, so i decided to make my own one. here's my idea.

Buy a $5 USB PS2-like controller, a cilindrical magnet, 8 push buttons, and fab the rest. the thing is.... most of the USB controllers in market, has that inductive rubber button system, similar to PC Keyboard buttons, so i need to know how can i convert it to simple 2 wire button system, so i can hook the wires to the buttons, or any other better idea.

My project ( already moddeled it in 3d so I can define button positions and dimensions so the fabbing becomes easier ) is to put 1 push button in each gear position (7+R) attached to an iron plate, and a magnet in the leaver, so that when you put the leaver into any gear position, the magnet presses the gear against the button so the button keeps pressed till you take the leaver out of the position.

besides the button connections, i have another doubt. What system can i use so the leaver returns to the center position always ? Gonna attach an image of the 3d project so you can have a taste.

Quote from 1303s_vortech :

It works on demo aswell...
Btw, Hey Dudles, been a long time.

hehehehe... ned make more gauges so i can renew my set :laola:

I Think we shall not use percentage but liters. because as said before, different cars have different tank sizes... so if all usessame car ( wich i think it's the best ) we use percentage, if not, we use liters. Otherwise different cars can get the same laps/percentage but will have different MPG's.

Quote from AudiBG :

nobody know ?

es it works.at least i use it in Patch Z10 and it wortks just fine.