You are probably accepted members of those dogs 'packs', so once youve been identified, you dont pose a threat and you dont get barked at. Mind you, some dogs are just so passive that will never be aggressive unless severely provoked. Dont know about yours and your friends dogs, but they sound great
If its running to a fence line that you are on the other side of, its not being friendly. Its defending its territory. Some dappy dogs will, on reaching the fence, turn into 'food for me?' mode, which can appear as being friendly, but its not really, they just want food.
The behaviour described by the OP is classic terrirtory defending and is aggressive behaviour. The 'half run' is not indicative of anything other than the dog knows it can scare away people without running flat out. The fact that when you came back, and it didnt bark, doesnt tell you alot. The dog might not be so anxious or might be more comfortable that you are not going to 'invade' its territory, so isnt barking. If you climbed over the fence or stuck a hand through it, it might be a different matter.
In general a dog which crouches right down on its front, front legs straight out, leaving its back end up in the air, is in 'play' mode. I would only make this assumption if you are in possession of a ball, with a dog that you know and have played with before though!
Advice above on talking to it to see how it reacts is not good. Dogs dont understand talking, and have no comprehension of its intention. They understand body language and physical movements, perhaps tone of voice at a push. Commands are different and are trained, and are a dogs reaction to implied rewards or punishment.
Best advice is dont approach strange dogs unless their owner is with them, and even then, dont approach the dog, approach the owner first!
The behaviour described by the OP is classic terrirtory defending and is aggressive behaviour. The 'half run' is not indicative of anything other than the dog knows it can scare away people without running flat out. The fact that when you came back, and it didnt bark, doesnt tell you alot. The dog might not be so anxious or might be more comfortable that you are not going to 'invade' its territory, so isnt barking. If you climbed over the fence or stuck a hand through it, it might be a different matter.
In general a dog which crouches right down on its front, front legs straight out, leaving its back end up in the air, is in 'play' mode. I would only make this assumption if you are in possession of a ball, with a dog that you know and have played with before though!
Advice above on talking to it to see how it reacts is not good. Dogs dont understand talking, and have no comprehension of its intention. They understand body language and physical movements, perhaps tone of voice at a push. Commands are different and are trained, and are a dogs reaction to implied rewards or punishment.
Best advice is dont approach strange dogs unless their owner is with them, and even then, dont approach the dog, approach the owner first!
Last edited by dynofiend, .
It would have to go another 20cm higher up as it has a built in base which I think might be a little bit too high. It would mean my 'virtual dashboard' will be hovering up over the top of the steering wheel. Mind you, thats about where you would want your virtual windscreen...
Ill give it a go as trying it out will be very easy and free
Ill give it a go as trying it out will be very easy and free
Thanks man, the monitor is as close as its possible to get. I made the frame deliberately like that. The base of the monitor actually sits underneath the base of the wheel and the monitor touches the back of the wheel housing too.
12m2 is not very much! Maybe you can build on the roof and lower it down?
12m2 is not very much! Maybe you can build on the roof and lower it down?
The vast majority of the population, particularly those who are out of short trousers, would probably disagree.
I know whenever I hear and see a distinctly average car with a louder than necessary exhaust, I just get the feeling that the driver is trying too hard to get noticed. A bit like walking down the street and shouting at the top of your voice "Hey check me out, Im AWESOME, LOOK!!" and expecting it to impress people
Dont get me wrong, two of my first cars had non standard exhausts, but they were more about the quality of the sound than the quantity. The two are very different things.
Hey, im not bagging your choice of car, I happen to have a soft spot for the ridiculous opulance and affordability of the old IL's, even if they do handle like an oil tanker (and use roughly the same amount of fuel each day) but just dont expect the thinking population of the world to enojy having their ear drums assualted by a noise that anyone with a couple of $k, and a holesaw, could create themselves
Anyway, Im way OT now, so..., how about them Impreza sounds eh, not enough threads about those these days...
Last edited by dynofiend, .
Because the tree dds files have an alpha channel which is the see through part. When you save the dds files you must save them with an alpha channel. If you save them as normal dds files they will have a black edge.
If you dont know what im talking about, have a google around and youll soon find out.
If you dont know what im talking about, have a google around and youll soon find out.
Over 100db would usually fail most trackday noise limits. And those are set higher to allow for people with modified cars. Anything over 100db is un necessary on a road car, and is only there to bolster the drivers ego (ie they want other people to look and notice them from the volume).
If you want your car to be louder, try routing the exhaust into the cabin. You might solve three problems in one go
If you want your car to be louder, try routing the exhaust into the cabin. You might solve three problems in one go
Last edited by dynofiend, .
Right, all finished. I miscalculated the resonant frequency. Its actually 40hz which is damn low! Most cars (using the CSR) have a nice low idle, so my rig vibrates nicely at idle and lower rpms. I used to own a car with solid hard rubber engine mounts, and it behaved in exactly the same way! Once up to racing speed, collisions, skidding, and trips into the gravel or sand cause vibrations, as does driving on the dirt sections of the autocross tracks. It works exceptionally well. So much so, that disconnecting it whilst racing makes the whole game feel 'dead'. Its kinda like the same level of effect you get from force feedback.
My only slight complaint is that riding curbs doesnt trigger it, mainly because in the game there is no extra sound when you hit a curb. The other thing that doesnt trigger it is hitting bumps on the track. Mainly for the same reason as the curbs, there is no sound in LFS when you hit a bump.
There might be a way to use a small app to generate the 40hz sound in response to suspension movements, but that kind of thing is way beyond my ability!
Anyway, I recommend if you have an old speaker lying around, to give this a go. I dont think youll be dissapointed.
I am happy to share my sound files, and to help someone identify the resonant frequency of their home made transducer to make custom sounds for their rigs if needed. Its not that hard at all!
Pics in this thread if interested http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=71211
Link to DIY transducer how to guide (turn the volume down unless you can understand spanish!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIBDeC3G3_4
My only slight complaint is that riding curbs doesnt trigger it, mainly because in the game there is no extra sound when you hit a curb. The other thing that doesnt trigger it is hitting bumps on the track. Mainly for the same reason as the curbs, there is no sound in LFS when you hit a bump.
There might be a way to use a small app to generate the 40hz sound in response to suspension movements, but that kind of thing is way beyond my ability!
Anyway, I recommend if you have an old speaker lying around, to give this a go. I dont think youll be dissapointed.
I am happy to share my sound files, and to help someone identify the resonant frequency of their home made transducer to make custom sounds for their rigs if needed. Its not that hard at all!
Pics in this thread if interested http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=71211
Link to DIY transducer how to guide (turn the volume down unless you can understand spanish!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIBDeC3G3_4
Last edited by dynofiend, .
Premat is quite an accident prone sort of driver. I think thats the third time he's wiped some major parts off that Audi this season alone. Still, good to see he came out of it ok!
Nice!
My recommendation, get hold of some wood and build yerself a cockpit
My recommendation, get hold of some wood and build yerself a cockpit
Another DIY cockpit thread
As I have finally completed my DIY cockpit, thought id post some pictures of it. Perhaps it will inspire someone else to make theirs. Seeing other peoples cockpits inspired me to build mine, and its the single best improvement I think anyone with a wheel can make!
Built from mainly pine (now painted black) and MDF finished in white formica (kitchen unit shelving), the whole frame was based around me, and how I like to sit while racing. I also deliberately triangulated every joint and one design principle was the the driver should be entirely suspended on the frame (ie the pedals dont touch the floor) which adds further weight to the rig to make it more stable. The seat is a passenger seat from a Prelude and is nice and deep whilst also being a fairly neutral colour. The screen is 24" (1920p) but being so close to the driver has around the same area as a 40" screen mounted on the wall.
It has 6 speakers (front and rears and two subs) at about 80wrms and various stands including one for the laptop. I chose two 2.1 sets rather than using one 5.1 as it was cheaper, gave me double the watts as there are two amps, double the bass and also stereo bass, and doesnt have a centre speaker to muddle the stereo image.
Finally it has my favourite part, a home made tactile transducer (aka bass shaker). Made from an old speaker and powered by the old stereo that you see under the desk which also utilises a home made stereo to mono convertor so it responds to sounds from both channels. I worked out its resonant frequency (about 40hz), and then mixed in some pure sine waves of that frequency into some of the games sound files like the crash sounds, skid sounds etc. Its bloody great fun.
Disregard the cost of the screen, speakers and wheel and the entire thing Cost $20 (US). It just took a little planning and basic tools.
If youre thinking of building one. Just do it! You wont be dissapointed
Built from mainly pine (now painted black) and MDF finished in white formica (kitchen unit shelving), the whole frame was based around me, and how I like to sit while racing. I also deliberately triangulated every joint and one design principle was the the driver should be entirely suspended on the frame (ie the pedals dont touch the floor) which adds further weight to the rig to make it more stable. The seat is a passenger seat from a Prelude and is nice and deep whilst also being a fairly neutral colour. The screen is 24" (1920p) but being so close to the driver has around the same area as a 40" screen mounted on the wall.
It has 6 speakers (front and rears and two subs) at about 80wrms and various stands including one for the laptop. I chose two 2.1 sets rather than using one 5.1 as it was cheaper, gave me double the watts as there are two amps, double the bass and also stereo bass, and doesnt have a centre speaker to muddle the stereo image.
Finally it has my favourite part, a home made tactile transducer (aka bass shaker). Made from an old speaker and powered by the old stereo that you see under the desk which also utilises a home made stereo to mono convertor so it responds to sounds from both channels. I worked out its resonant frequency (about 40hz), and then mixed in some pure sine waves of that frequency into some of the games sound files like the crash sounds, skid sounds etc. Its bloody great fun.
Disregard the cost of the screen, speakers and wheel and the entire thing Cost $20 (US). It just took a little planning and basic tools.
If youre thinking of building one. Just do it! You wont be dissapointed
Yeah saving dds in PS is a bit wierd. General rule when youre saving dds files, just dont change anything and click on OK. Its worked for me so far. Thanks for the compliment though, hope it works out for you in the game
I always hankered after one of those Phoenix Gold Cyclones, they dropped into single digits
Very nice mate.
Just a suggestion, but the other signs on FB are pretty much all faded, old, sunbleached and quite damaged. It might be an idea for future releases, to include some more weathering
Just a suggestion, but the other signs on FB are pretty much all faded, old, sunbleached and quite damaged. It might be an idea for future releases, to include some more weathering
Yeah I think that the 80Hz is a product of the system I have the transducer wired to, and its built in bass boost, rather than the speaker itself. This doesnt really matter too much, as the transducer doesnt really play any real sound, it just wobbles.
This is simply a case of Webber having taken a fairly heavy shunt and having no idea which way his car was facing, let alone where it was going after that. To say that he firstly knew that he was drifting back across the track, and then thought to himself how he could work it to his advantage, realise it might be by taking out someone else, and then deciding not to apply the brakes, is akin to saying that someone who has been smashed about the head with a plank, is already plotting his revenge by angling his head in such a way that his assailant gets a splinter.
Well, so far im doing quite well. I went and made a 'tactile transducer' (a buttkicker) this evening in about half an hour from an old speaker. Powering it using an old home stereo I identified the resonant frequency of my new transducer (about 80hz) and augmented the 'softscrape' sounds with two pulses of 80hz, and the 'hardscrape' sound with three closely spaced pulses. I also found that the default 'skiddirt' sound has a fair amount of 80hz in it already (not as much as my pulses that I added to the other files though). These files are quite different to the ones I uploaded in the zip above.
The results are excellent. The newly made buttkicker jumps around quite a bit when these sound files are played.
Next will be playing the game with the transducer wired up to see what other sounds in the game might set it off, and ill then deal with those samples in turn to reduce their effect.
The upshot of this is that basicly I have added a working vibration element to the game, and to my cockpit, for $0 and a couple of hours work.
Result!
The results are excellent. The newly made buttkicker jumps around quite a bit when these sound files are played.
Next will be playing the game with the transducer wired up to see what other sounds in the game might set it off, and ill then deal with those samples in turn to reduce their effect.
The upshot of this is that basicly I have added a working vibration element to the game, and to my cockpit, for $0 and a couple of hours work.
Result!
Want eh? Well, heres an attempt, as its obviously a custom airbrush job on the original, ive taken some artistic licence (ie the one ive done is a bit rubbish). It will only work on some GTR cars, but thats the only wheels you can change anyway. I attempted the chrome look as well.
Also, it really is a shocking wheel to have in a GTR car, but then theres no accounting for taste
Please dont come back asking me to make something a bit different, as I probably wont get round to it and think its an offence to the rather nicely crafted original, and also other custom GTR wheel textures that are available elsewhere
Oh and this is the first dds file ive ever done for someone!
peace.
Also, it really is a shocking wheel to have in a GTR car, but then theres no accounting for taste
Please dont come back asking me to make something a bit different, as I probably wont get round to it and think its an offence to the rather nicely crafted original, and also other custom GTR wheel textures that are available elsewhere
Oh and this is the first dds file ive ever done for someone!
peace.
Last edited by dynofiend, .
Teasers! Looking forward to it
Have fun, let me know your findings!
It might yeah. You can try with the original and 'high passed' wind noises and see how you go. There will be a balance between setting the buttkicker at a setting where the crash noises with the added bass gets the thing shaking, and the windnoise doesnt.
Nah sorry mate. Well I do, but the low end isnt high res enough.
I made some .wav files with some extra bass sine waves in them. The Heavy crash has a 20-100hz sweep buried in it, and so does the skid dirt one. Also the crash light sample has a couple of low spikes in it. I then re did the wind noise sticking a pretty harsh, high pass filter on it. It doesnt sound amazing though and would probably benefit from a more accurate high pass (say filtering out anything under 150hz) being done an the original file.
Unfortunately I cant upload em here as .wav isnt accepted
I made some .wav files with some extra bass sine waves in them. The Heavy crash has a 20-100hz sweep buried in it, and so does the skid dirt one. Also the crash light sample has a couple of low spikes in it. I then re did the wind noise sticking a pretty harsh, high pass filter on it. It doesnt sound amazing though and would probably benefit from a more accurate high pass (say filtering out anything under 150hz) being done an the original file.
Unfortunately I cant upload em here as .wav isnt accepted
Last edited by dynofiend, .
Dude, its chrome, you cant skin chrome as the wheel textures dont reflect.
Right, further investigation of the sound files reveals that the crash sounds are already fairly heavily laden with sub bass. I also had a look at some of the other sounds, like the road and wind noise, and noticed that again these sounds are quite bass heavy. There might be some problems associated with these sounds causing the buttkicker to be on basicly all the time when the car is driving. I need to look at bit more closely at some of the lower frequencies on these files to work out whats going on there.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG