if i miss my braking point i just burry into the back of the car in front of me, then blame him and spam some messages about "early brakers".... 
j/k. but i do see people do that.
if there is traffic, i'll go wide to avoid hitting them, putting it in the grass if i have to. if i have the corner to myself, i'll try to get the car sideways and claw my way back towards the apex using the throttle.
j/k. but i do see people do that.
if there is traffic, i'll go wide to avoid hitting them, putting it in the grass if i have to. if i have the corner to myself, i'll try to get the car sideways and claw my way back towards the apex using the throttle.
hrm...
this weekend there was a champcar race on espn, and motogp on speed-tv, and i flipped between them for a while before finally settling in with the motorcycles.
the champcar race was full of crashes. the motogp full of close racing and passing. there was really no comparison. and don't get me started on the booster button.
this weekend there was a champcar race on espn, and motogp on speed-tv, and i flipped between them for a while before finally settling in with the motorcycles.
the champcar race was full of crashes. the motogp full of close racing and passing. there was really no comparison. and don't get me started on the booster button.
glad to hear that you have made some progress with your setup.
i would recommend though that you back off from those max settings. with the brake balance, set it so that your front wheels lock up just a little before your rears (somewhere between 60-75% should work, depending on how your downforce is set). and your max braking per wheel should be set low enough that you can modulate the brake (ie, if you lock up a little, you can release the brake half way and get traction back). if set too high, your brakes will be like an on/off switch, which doesn't give you fine enough control.
hope that helps.
when starting from scratch, i make my initial tire pressures and spring rates proportional to the weight distribution of the car. (eg, stiffer in front on front engine cars)
i use trial and error to set 1st and 6th gear ratios, and calculate 2nd to 5th to fit a curve between them.
i use the forces view to set the brake balance and strength (watching replays in slow motion to see which wheels are locking first).
everything else i set by feel, and adjust the spring rates and tire pressures away from the initial values i calculated as required.
i use trial and error to set 1st and 6th gear ratios, and calculate 2nd to 5th to fit a curve between them.
i use the forces view to set the brake balance and strength (watching replays in slow motion to see which wheels are locking first).
everything else i set by feel, and adjust the spring rates and tire pressures away from the initial values i calculated as required.
the only times i would ever ram someone is if they joined mid-race and weren't respecting the blue flag, or if they tried a dangerous pass that resulted in them sliding (slowly) across the track in front of me. last night both situations happened in one race, and both times i kept my right foot planted and pushed them out of my way, without even really thinking about it. i felt quite ashamed afterward, even though neither driver complained.
i was a complete noob not too many months ago, not checking my mirrors, braking too late, and generally having so much trouble keeping my own car on the track that i had no brain power left over to keep track of where the other cars were. i upset some people by driving like that, and so i just made sure to be as careful as i could.
now i'm better, but still obviously have some noobish tendencies, being impatient with people blocking me, etc. but we all make progress every day. or at least i like to think we do.
i was a complete noob not too many months ago, not checking my mirrors, braking too late, and generally having so much trouble keeping my own car on the track that i had no brain power left over to keep track of where the other cars were. i upset some people by driving like that, and so i just made sure to be as careful as i could.
now i'm better, but still obviously have some noobish tendencies, being impatient with people blocking me, etc. but we all make progress every day. or at least i like to think we do.
the game already has look left/right buttons. just use them.
it's true that many people find long tracks hard and/or boring, but i personally enjoy long tracks the best. i think that if a very long point-to-point track was created, it would probably be a good idea to break it into stages, then people could practice or race short sections of the course, or choose to race the whole thing.
i'm thinking something that's about 20km long in total, broken into 3 or 4 stages of different lengths, ranging from say 2 to 8km each, would be good.
i'm thinking something that's about 20km long in total, broken into 3 or 4 stages of different lengths, ranging from say 2 to 8km each, would be good.
i don't know how scawen has programmed it. it could be the spring rate, but it's more likely that it's the breakaway torque value, which is the amount of torque you would have to apply to one wheel to make it turn if the other wheel was held stationary.
ah yes. i was getting ahead of myself and thinking about cases where the inside wheel has lost traction.
viscous coupling is speed dependent (Nm/rad), but clutch packs are power dependent. i found this:
i'm confused about the same thing, actually.
too low preload should cause the diff to slip initially, then lock up.
just right preload should let the diff work as intended.
too high preload should cause the diff to lock more than intended.
and more locking should mean more torque to the slower spinning (outside) wheel.... i think.
uh?
afaik, preload only affects the transition from unloaded to loaded state, and does not affect the maximum locking factor. am i wrong?
edit - nevermind, i got it. preload only affects the locking if set too high...
Last edited by evilgeek, .
3 guys all yelling "oh! oh! uh? woah! oh!" while the 4th yells "come on, push it!" is not commentary, but that's what it degraded to every time 2 or more cars approached a corner together.
i do enjoy the humour, when they actually are funny. but it would be nice if at least one of them could keep their cool and provide useful information, like which cars we are looking at while the rest go into fits.
because IRL preload is set using a spring that pushes the clutch plates together. stiffer spring = more preload.
the situation you describe is the coast condition, and yes, the momentum of the car combined with the different distances the inside and outside wheel must travel around the corner cause the diff to load up.
basically what you are saying is, "don't change MY car, change someone else's." well guess what? other people have put time into setting up the other cars too, and would also have to change their setups. you are being a big, selfish baby. the changes the devs are making are good for the game, and everyone will have to deal with them.
and if you do a quick search, you will see that balancing within the TBO and GTR classes has been requested a million times, so it's a change that most people are in favour of.
my understanding is that preload is the amount of friction between the two power paths through the differential under zero torque. you can think of it as a "minimum lock" whereas the power and coast settings are "maximum lock" values.
as you load up the diff (by accelerating out of a corner, or decelerating into a corner) the amount of friction will build up from the preload amount until it reaches the maximum locking factor. the higher the preload, the faster the locking comes on. if set too low, it will act like an open diff and allow considerable slip to occur before it locks up. if set too high, it will act more like a fully locked diff, and wont slip enough, causing understeer. set just right, you will get a smooth transition between coast/unloaded/power conditions.
massa, hamilton and heidfeld all drove impressive races.
kimi and alonso, not so much. too many small mistakes, especially from kimi.
coulthard did manage to do a lot of passing before the car gave up, but i wonder how many of the other drivers let him pass for fear of having their heads taken off.
and what was with the commentary (on Speed TV)? they sounded like they were drunk or something. totally disorganized. at one point somebody made engine/gear change sounds into the microphone, overtop the real car sounds, and at another they broke out into complete non-sensical bumbling. disgraceful.
kimi and alonso, not so much. too many small mistakes, especially from kimi.
coulthard did manage to do a lot of passing before the car gave up, but i wonder how many of the other drivers let him pass for fear of having their heads taken off.
and what was with the commentary (on Speed TV)? they sounded like they were drunk or something. totally disorganized. at one point somebody made engine/gear change sounds into the microphone, overtop the real car sounds, and at another they broke out into complete non-sensical bumbling. disgraceful.
you don't get a blue flag if the person behind you is on the same lap!!!!!!
ego trips anyone?
seriously, when i read these threads about blue flags, all i can think to myself is that all the nit-picking about interpretation of the rules is just a cover up for the real issue, which is with the inflated egos of both the lappers and lappees.
to me, it's really simple:
if you joined mid-race and get a blue flag, make 100% sure you don't spoil the race. if you have the car handling skills to let the faster car lap you safely, then do so. if you don't, then shift-s. no excuses. if you didn't start the race, you have no rights whatsoever.
if you started the race and are being legitimately lapped, then stick to your race, but let the faster car pass at the earliest safe place, which may be 2 or 3 corners down the track, depending on how fast you are. if you know how to drive, it should be obvious what a safe place to pass is, so no need to split hairs about it.
is it annoying when people spam the screen with "blue flag - let me pass!"? maybe. childish? maybe. egotistical? maybe. but remember, not everyone reads the forum, and there really are ignorant people who don't know or care about blue flags, so what may be an insult to your intelligence may be appropriate for some of the idiots on the public servers, and whether you get offended by it or not is really up to you.
which brings me to my final point... people who say that they will deliberately block someone who spams them with a blue flag message are the most egotistical and selfish of all! spite has no place in a gentleman's sport. if you are being lapped, you are being lapped, and there is no excuse for treating one faster car different than another. that's the definition of poor sportsmanship.
seriously, when i read these threads about blue flags, all i can think to myself is that all the nit-picking about interpretation of the rules is just a cover up for the real issue, which is with the inflated egos of both the lappers and lappees.
to me, it's really simple:
if you joined mid-race and get a blue flag, make 100% sure you don't spoil the race. if you have the car handling skills to let the faster car lap you safely, then do so. if you don't, then shift-s. no excuses. if you didn't start the race, you have no rights whatsoever.
if you started the race and are being legitimately lapped, then stick to your race, but let the faster car pass at the earliest safe place, which may be 2 or 3 corners down the track, depending on how fast you are. if you know how to drive, it should be obvious what a safe place to pass is, so no need to split hairs about it.
is it annoying when people spam the screen with "blue flag - let me pass!"? maybe. childish? maybe. egotistical? maybe. but remember, not everyone reads the forum, and there really are ignorant people who don't know or care about blue flags, so what may be an insult to your intelligence may be appropriate for some of the idiots on the public servers, and whether you get offended by it or not is really up to you.
which brings me to my final point... people who say that they will deliberately block someone who spams them with a blue flag message are the most egotistical and selfish of all! spite has no place in a gentleman's sport. if you are being lapped, you are being lapped, and there is no excuse for treating one faster car different than another. that's the definition of poor sportsmanship.
imho, they wont help noobs, because noobs will be too busy learning the controls and general driving techniques to worry about the nuances of the tracks. honestly, do you really want noobs trying to optimize their braking points when they haven't learned to use their mirrors yet?
i don't think they wont help experienced drivers either, unless they are car specific, which would be a massive amount of work. even then, it there could be setup specific differences. for example, some people setup their FXR's as true 4wd, safe to mash the throttle well before the apex, others with a more rwd bias requiring more throttle control, etc, etc.
they might be useful for marketing, or simple nerd factor for people who would rather read about driving than actually spend time driving. but would that make them useful?
sorry if i sound negative, but i just don't see how there would be much real value, other than for fanboys.
i don't think they wont help experienced drivers either, unless they are car specific, which would be a massive amount of work. even then, it there could be setup specific differences. for example, some people setup their FXR's as true 4wd, safe to mash the throttle well before the apex, others with a more rwd bias requiring more throttle control, etc, etc.
they might be useful for marketing, or simple nerd factor for people who would rather read about driving than actually spend time driving. but would that make them useful?
sorry if i sound negative, but i just don't see how there would be much real value, other than for fanboys.
is BST=GMT? i'm timezone impaired here in the far west, but i'll be there if i can.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG