looks like the retched spawn of a ford mustang and a hyundai tiberon. that is a seriously fugly machine.
must go find some pics of the new bmw 135i to cleanse my eyes.
must go find some pics of the new bmw 135i to cleanse my eyes.
got to disagree mate.
when at rest, the bolts will be parrallel to the driveshaft, but since they are a "single shear" connection (force is only applied to one end of the bolt), they will definitely twist from side to side within the rubber disc, and doing so will require a lot less deformation of the rubber (mostly concentrated near the edges) than moving in any other direction. the first few degrees of bolt twisting will hardly compress any of the rubber at all, but the further they twist, the more rubber becomes involved, with the load spread over a larger area. and if you think about it, this is actually needed to relieve stress on the bolts, and makes the connection more rubust, not less. if the bolts were not able to twist within the disc, they would be subject to much higher point loads, and more likely to fail.
and if you are thinking, "if that's true then why don't the wheel lugs fail?", the answer is that they have less inertia to cope with.
wheel: 4-5 lugs for 1 wheel + 1 tire
guibo: 3 bolts for 2 wheels + 2 tires + 2 axles + diff internals + driveshaft
Last edited by evilgeek, .
thinking about this a little more, my estimate should have been double what it was, as there are two sets of bolts, one attached to the driveshaft, and one to the tranny, and each will twist in the flex disc.
so roughly 10* for motor mounts, 10-15* for flex disc, 10* for diff mounts, plus some flex in the chassis and other metal bits, and it starts to add up to quite a lot.
however the engine inertia vs clutch size change sounds like it will do the trick for now.
from what i understand any movement of a guibo (flex disc) is usually a result of the bolts twisting in their holes.
here is a picture of a worn flex disc. you can see the cracks around the bolt holes.
http://www.alfagtv6.com/bb/files/1_237.jpg
i haven't found any hard figures on just how far the driveshaft can rotate indepdent of the transmission output flange, but as an estimate, if the guibo had a diameter of 10cm at the bolt centers, and the bolt heads could flex by 5mm side to side, the driveshaft would have about 5.7 degrees of freedom.
i think it can be assumed that when the bolts are twisted they compress the rubber, and it's like a spring being compressed. the energy will be released eventually (less any converted to heat in the process), either through the tranny (if the wheels retain traction) or back to the wheels if they lose traction. this might contribute to wheel hop under certain conditions?
here is a picture of a worn flex disc. you can see the cracks around the bolt holes.
http://www.alfagtv6.com/bb/files/1_237.jpg
i haven't found any hard figures on just how far the driveshaft can rotate indepdent of the transmission output flange, but as an estimate, if the guibo had a diameter of 10cm at the bolt centers, and the bolt heads could flex by 5mm side to side, the driveshaft would have about 5.7 degrees of freedom.
i think it can be assumed that when the bolts are twisted they compress the rubber, and it's like a spring being compressed. the energy will be released eventually (less any converted to heat in the process), either through the tranny (if the wheels retain traction) or back to the wheels if they lose traction. this might contribute to wheel hop under certain conditions?
regarding the clutch slipping when the tires suddenly find grip, i wonder if simulating a guibo would help? (the flexible rubber mount between the transmission and drive shaft) this would allow some drivetrain lash and absorb some of the forces before they reach the clutch.
i ran test consisting of 12 ai's racing 1000 laps of the chicane route.
only two finished.
the ai's drove very carefully, but every so often one of the ai's would take a flat, and usually hit the wall right after. they would then burn up their clutch trying to get going again. any other ai's that hit them or spun trying to avoid them would suffer a similar fait. it was like a contageous disease. glassy clutchitis?
it seems the ai's don't know how to limp the car along when the clutch is hot, so if they get into any trouble at all they are doomed.
of course the old ai's would have crashed each other out long before any of their tires were worn, so i'm certainly not complaining! :P
only two finished.
the ai's drove very carefully, but every so often one of the ai's would take a flat, and usually hit the wall right after. they would then burn up their clutch trying to get going again. any other ai's that hit them or spun trying to avoid them would suffer a similar fait. it was like a contageous disease. glassy clutchitis?
it seems the ai's don't know how to limp the car along when the clutch is hot, so if they get into any trouble at all they are doomed.
of course the old ai's would have crashed each other out long before any of their tires were worn, so i'm certainly not complaining! :P
make sure you unbutton your shirt and wear rayban sunglasses!
i agree that nobody should be using a locked diff on tarmac, but to say that using any more than 30% coast lock in a clutch pack diff is retarded is, well, retarded!
lsd locking factors should vary depending on a number of factors, especially the weight distribution of the car and it's power output.
in my experience, rear engine cars generally need more coast lock to prevent the rear end from whipping around when trail braking, and in these cars the obvious solution to mid corner understeer is to get back on the throttle earlier.
as for power lock, cars with modest power will be able to put it down better with higher locking, but cars will enough power to spin both wheels will be easier to drive if some of the excess power is allowed to be "bled off" by using a low locking factor.
and as for preload... use just enough so that the transition between power and coast states is smooth and predictable. (i do agree that too much preload is practically the same as a locked diff).
lsd locking factors should vary depending on a number of factors, especially the weight distribution of the car and it's power output.
in my experience, rear engine cars generally need more coast lock to prevent the rear end from whipping around when trail braking, and in these cars the obvious solution to mid corner understeer is to get back on the throttle earlier.
as for power lock, cars with modest power will be able to put it down better with higher locking, but cars will enough power to spin both wheels will be easier to drive if some of the excess power is allowed to be "bled off" by using a low locking factor.
and as for preload... use just enough so that the transition between power and coast states is smooth and predictable. (i do agree that too much preload is practically the same as a locked diff).
Last edited by evilgeek, .
front wheel drive cars are AWESOME (in reverse). :hihi:
omg all this whining is really starting to make me sick!
it took me about 3 minutes to get used to the 45* look, and I LOVE IT! now i can do something i could never do before, and that's look at the car next to me, and still be able to see up the road where we are headed.
of course the significance of that is that there will be fewer crashes with 45* than with 90*, because you can still see where you are going! plus you can still look 90* if you need to by using both buttons. will anyone really miss 180*? the only time i ever used it was when i was stuck in the gravel, but even then i only used it because i could; i didn't really need it.
it took me about 3 minutes to get used to the 45* look, and I LOVE IT! now i can do something i could never do before, and that's look at the car next to me, and still be able to see up the road where we are headed.
of course the significance of that is that there will be fewer crashes with 45* than with 90*, because you can still see where you are going! plus you can still look 90* if you need to by using both buttons. will anyone really miss 180*? the only time i ever used it was when i was stuck in the gravel, but even then i only used it because i could; i didn't really need it.
yep.
if you aren't bottoming out, then you can afford to either lower it, or soften the springs.
if you are bottoming out, then you will have to either lift it, or stiffen the springs.
a lifted, softly sprung car will have plenty of grip, but will have a lot of body roll too, and take a long time to shift it's weight from one side to the other, making the handling feel unresponsive and sloppy.
a lowered, stiffly sprung car will have a bit less grip ultimate grip, but also less body roll, making it feel more responsive and precise.
on a smooth track, find the compromise between handling and grip that works for you, and off you go. bumpy tracks are a bit more of a challenge to get set up for, but you get the idea.
if you aren't bottoming out, then you can afford to either lower it, or soften the springs.
if you are bottoming out, then you will have to either lift it, or stiffen the springs.
a lifted, softly sprung car will have plenty of grip, but will have a lot of body roll too, and take a long time to shift it's weight from one side to the other, making the handling feel unresponsive and sloppy.
a lowered, stiffly sprung car will have a bit less grip ultimate grip, but also less body roll, making it feel more responsive and precise.
on a smooth track, find the compromise between handling and grip that works for you, and off you go. bumpy tracks are a bit more of a challenge to get set up for, but you get the idea.
any cd burning software with a video transcoder should be able to do it. you'll want to burn in "video-cd" format. i use nero myself.
very very very strange. makes me wonder things like, by freezing development on 3 systems that might have included ferrari technology, are they trying to draw attention away from a 4th stolen system?
(not that i'm cynical or anything)
(not that i'm cynical or anything)
the BF1 just needs to be set up properly. i found it impossible to drive at first, but after some tweaking it can be tossed around with ease.
i run 32 psi on the street with 205/55 VR 15's.
it's called an idle control valve, and it's operated by the ecu. it isn't intended as a "driver aid", but it is meant to keep the engine idle steady, and when the revs dip below the normal idle point for whatever reason (environmental conditions usually), it will make an attempt to keep the revs up by opening the throttle a little.
have to disagree with you, meng.
sitting in my buddy's (mildly race preped) 911, wearing a helmet and 5 point harness, i actually start to feel claustrophobic due to the lack of freedom of movement. you have to have your mirrors adjusted perfectly, because you can barely turn your head at all, let alone do a proper shoulder check. and that's *without* a HANS device, which would surely make it 10x as bad.
so as much i expect the 45* look will be difficult to adjust to, i think it's very realistic.
i've driven a manual for 19 years, and never had a problem with the clutch, but on the other hand, i've seen (or should i say smelled?) someone overheat a clutch in under 2 minutes while trying to parallel park. so i think it's quite realistic that some people think the new lfs clutch overheats too fast, while others don't see any heat build up at all. i don't really think there is a happy medium. either you are doing it right, and the clutch lasts a long time, or you are doing it wrong, and it burns out really fast.
viva la revolucion!
huh?
at half a tenth per shift (guessing), time will add up quick, plus the FZR can't run longer stints, as it burns way more fuel. so i think the balance should be fairly close now.
so Alonso gets everything he wanted. he'll be the #1 driver at renault, with a rookie #2 who looks up to and supports him, instead of disobeying team orders and trying to thwart his ambitions as hamilton did. the haters will obviously hate this, but i'm glad it's happened, because now 2008 will be a true test for alonso. either he will regain a dominant position, or he wont, and if he doesn't he wont have an easy excuse.
it will be very interesting to see what happens at mclaren. i think they need to find someone with no ego at all, else risk another year of drivers fighting with each other. did you catch hamilton's comments after his recent test session in jerez? while everyone else was talking about "the car", he was going on about "my car", as if he had anything to do with building it.
bummer for kovalainen though. i hope he finds a seat.
it will be very interesting to see what happens at mclaren. i think they need to find someone with no ego at all, else risk another year of drivers fighting with each other. did you catch hamilton's comments after his recent test session in jerez? while everyone else was talking about "the car", he was going on about "my car", as if he had anything to do with building it.
bummer for kovalainen though. i hope he finds a seat.
this makes a lot more sense, would be a lot easier to enforce, and would force all the teams to develop more efficient engines. the freeze wont encourage the teams with fast engines to add any green technology at all. it will just add weight to the cars and slow them down. it's only effect will be to put pressure on the slower teams to try something new that probably wont help them to compete anyway.
gold!
you should also get your teeth whitened so you'll look good on TV. do you suppose there are any dentists in your area willing to sponsor you?
Check out the various bushings connecting all the rods together. Each bushing will contribute some flex. The ones connected to the vertical bar look especially flexible, similar to sway bar drop links. In fact, they *are* sway bar drop links, just in a weird size and orientation compared to a street car.
Also think about how the pivot points would work given that the vertical bar can freely rotate forward and back. The axis of rotation will begin in the center, but as the arb twists and the shock compresses, the axis will move away from center, giving the two wheels different amounts of leverage against the spring. The more easily the arb can twist, the more "independent" the suspension is, just like in a two damper setup.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG