Quote from Jakg :

Some time this month, an iPhone 4 16GB.

Store finally got it in, so I picked it up today... mucho impressed.

Although the fact I have to plug it into iTunes before I can use it / give it all my credit card details before I can download even a free app pissed me off quite a lot...

Quote from thisnameistaken :

Have you used a top-end Android phone?

Yes, i've used my G1 for the last 18 months with the latest version of Android on it (1.6 through to 2.2), and I've used my friends Desire Z & Galaxy S quite a lot as well.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

I am not sure why people think tablets are new. I used to have a ballin' HP tablet back in 2002 and it was already old by then. Was great and when I got bored of Windows I hit up Linux then realised it had limited support and went back to 'doze.

Apple have some how managed to sell crap old hardware in a shiny box and make idiots think it is some new revolution. My old HP tablet was better equipped than the iPad. My XDA IIi was better equipped than the iPhone and yet when they were new cost half as much as their Apple cousins.

Specs = / = a nice to use device.

Android is a GREAT OS. Far, far better than iOS in functionality... but it's just too slow. Despite the power all the new phones have, they all seem to have a little annoying delay doing some things... whereas the iPhone / iPad just don't.

As for the XDA... it's Windows Mobile 6. It doesn't matter if it had an i7, it'd still be horrible to use.

Overall, an "empty" grill would be best. But failing that, the black "M" looks a lot better.

Not sold on the towhook, though... it's legality is questionable, and it looks a bit tacky.

Currently:



Rooted, CyanogenMod running Android 2.2, Apps2SD etc.

Some time this month, an iPhone 4 16GB.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Here Physco, read this and weep...in my (chavvy) Corsa, my friend lost one of the headlight clips so when I came to fit my HID's they wouldn't stay in...so what I did was bodge it with gaffa tape for about a month, which worked quite well actually, and then when my friend fitted non genuine Vauxhall Corsa facelift lights (the angel eyes), I jacked his clips which were too big, slightly bent them so they sort of stayed in place and wrapped the whole thing in gaffa tape!

Im ashamed to admit I did the same... was fitting HID's in the ZT and the bastard clip sprung out into (what I thought) was the bumper. Spent *hours* trying to get it out but couldn't find it (and didnt yet have the confidence to remove the bumper) so I got a load of blue-tac and held it in with that... worked suprisingly well!

Couldn't source a new clip, and the local dealer wanted something stupid like £300 per side for a new headlight, so I bought some proper OEM Xenon lights... and when I took the old lights out I found the bastard clip was still sitting in the bottom!

Finally getting the hang of this - managed to get and hold a few WR's over the versions.

(inb4 someone beats them now... Crystal Canyon GC is one of them)

Bought a new car

Learnt how to pimp new car (before I got the ZT I took it to a garage to change a headlight bulb ffs!)

Said goodbye to the Wira forever

Learnt how to program in Java

Conquered my irrational fear of SQL

Don't click the YouTube link... it goes to Meatspin. I clicked it with my Mum standing behind me... shit got awkward

(not even joking).

Do you have any source on the 2 woofers / one box vs 2 woofers / 2 boxes thing?

I could understand if you needed more volume, but it'd be amazing if i could get more bass simply by chucking an divider in the enclosure...

DIY is the best way, but it's a lot of effort for a first-timer to do it right... i'd love to custom make the perfect box for the boot and my subs, but it's much easier to buy a premade box on eBay for £40 or whatever.

I dont think Alcohol is AtomAnt's biggest vice.

Quote from shaunthepup463 :

When I say Microsoft, I mean the Windows Live Support Center - sorry . They have told me, that I don't have enough proof ATM.

Microsoft offer a service, they aren't interpol.

Exactly what are you expecting to happen?

Quote from hazaky :

Depends. At one point they might close all services to the given IP because of the bad behaviour.

Really? You think Microsoft are going to give a shit / believe it / act on it?

Quote from shaunthepup463 :

...Also, the I.P. has gone to Microsoft...

is that meant to scare anyone?

He doesn't have a driving license, and it's a track car so no tax, insurance or fuel to really worry about.

Working full time & living at home would give you a *lot* of disposable income... I only work 12 hours a week and I could afford the ZT, think what you could get with quadruple that...

This thread, worthless pictures without.


Rearrange.

Quote from Jertje :

Kids in Europe don't even know how to do simple additions without a calculator anymore, while in Asia kids at the same age crunch numbers ten times as complex as if their life depended on it.

...so? Teaching people Maths is so they can use it in the "real world"... where there wont be some rediculous restriction on what tools they can or can't use. It's not as if a calculating devices are in short supply?

I've never quite understood the focus on non-calculator Maths...

Quote from dadge :

i appreciate that you're trying to explain this to me but tbh, you're not helping lol.

All I mean is that you've got it backwards - 700w = the output, not the input. The input is the output / efficiency

Moar.

Quote from AtomAnt :

What was your math SAT 12.

Seeing the "SAT" system is only used in North America I doubt many people are going to answer

What sort of "Math" does it cover?

Let me rephrase that, 1000w amp at 50% efficiency delivers 1000w of sound but will require 2000w of power to do this.

NOT 1000w amp generates 500w sound / 500w waste, draws 1000w.

Quote from dadge :

so you're drawing 812watts from the wall, to power a 650watt psu? is it just me or does that reak of blown psu? doesn't a 650watt psu at 80% (peak)efficiency only give you 520watts of power?

I dont quite think you understand the use of efficiency - the wattage stated is what it actually outputs, however the efficiency decides what it takes from the wall.

i.e. if we said an engine was 50% efficient and made 200 BHP, it's making 200 BHP, but wasting so many joules through heat.

Hey guys, I have a normal stable relatiaonship. I get the feeling this isn't the thread for me?

You understand that a lot of companies in Cambridge make millions using degree students, yes?

In fact, the Kinnect was largely developed in Cambridge by former Students of Cambridge University...

A 650w PSU at 80% efficiency will delivery 650w (however that was tested, peak, load etc, you get my point), but draw 812.5w from the wall.

Quote from logitekg25 :

then how do you get the best sound out of your car speakers?

and so what if its quieter, just turn the volume up, with a good amp

A proper amp - a mid-range set of component speakers can handle up to ~60w RMS (using my Diamonds as an example here). A headunit (even the "4x50w" ones) will probably actually output 4x20w RMS if that... it will sound good, but with a proper amp it will sound a lot more "punchy" - this is if your going aftermarket, though... for a "stock" car the first thing you want is to upgrade the HU, and then the speakers, then you can look at extra amps, deadening etc.

Getting good sound in a car is more than just putting some new speakers in...

And in case anyone chimes in with "it's all pointless",, my current stereo system wipes the floor with my Z5500's, despite costing the same (and being nowhere near finished yet!)

Quote from logitekg25 :

so you cant use the radio cause that might get static and sound god awful. you cant use an ipod which is the latest feisable technology for delivering portable sound, i assume a tiny smudge on a cd will reduce quality greatly...so where..?

You can use an iPod, but the problem is you really need to feed it through something - i.e. I run multiple amps, and have the HU split the signal up (i.e. the sub only plays anything sub 80 Hz, the mids only play anything over 60 Hz). However your iPod will probably have 128 kb/s music on it which isn't the best source to play from. I find a USB memory stick with 320 kb/s is good enough, although for optimum quality the original CD is best... however I can't really tell the difference just yet.