Quote from jabz10 :

HI do you know whos pictures these are from this post?
I have the same setup and would like to know how they attached the pedals to the Playseat pedal rack? Currently I have the bottom pedal bar holding them, nothing at the top as the mounting holes dont line up.

In the last pic you can see a few white cable ties holding it all together.

Looks like mould to me. From little/no use, in a cold damp room maybe over time condensation/air moisture got in there.

You probably have to disassemble the layers to clean it out. It might be forever ruined I'd say.

Last edited by JasonJ, Wed 29 Jun 2011, 15:50.

Quote from PMD9409 :

I don't see it.

Right Click, properties, copy link, paste into addy bar, go there.

http://www.totalmania.net/wp-c ... 06/i-hate-sandcastles.jpg

Yep it[NW] is definately 100% ready for release. They also announced software update schedule today for the NTM preview release.

I'll also repost this below for those that don't have forum access.

Quote from David Kaemmer :

We’re very excited to get the new tire model into your hands and out into public view finally! We think you’ll find that the new tires are a lot of fun—at the same time easier to drive, but more challenging, too. For sure they are more realistic than the old tires—especially on the high speed ovals, which is why we’re letting you get a first look at them on the new Nationwide car. The car itself represents a big step forward in simulating a Nascar race car—the aerodynamics and suspension have been reworked in addition to the tires. But before you jump into the new Nationwide car and drop the clutch I thought I’d give you a few bits of information to help get you up to speed on these new tires.

First, you’re probably going to be best off if you start with the baseline setups provided with the car (click on the iRacing Setups tab in the garage). You may need to alter your driving style a bit to get the most out of these tires, and you can easily get into a hole by playing with the setup instead of playing with your line, and your technique.

Second, be patient—you’ll need to learn how you can change the balance of the car simply by altering your line, and by changing how and when you lift off and get back on the throttle. These tires, just like real tires, are very sensitive to heat buildup. When you’re going through a corner, especially on a high speed oval, the tire surface can heat up at 50 degrees per second! If the rear tires are heating up faster than the fronts, it’s sayonara—you’re going to spin. If the fronts are heating up faster, the car will be tight, and more steering will make it worse. When both ends are working nearly equally, you’ll know it—and you’ll find out why the drivers have a huge grin when their car is “hooked up.”

By changing how you drive a corner, you can control the heat buildup to a degree. If you drive in really hot, and crank in a lot of steering wheel angle (a very typical simracing technique), it will come as no surprise that you will get understeer, or push, and lots of it. If you do this lap after lap, your right front will likely not make a full fuel run without popping when you wear through the cords. Also you will be slow—maybe not on the first lap, but over a run you will lose a lot of time. That’s because the right front will lose a lot of grip as it nearly catches fire, and melts away.

An alternative is to back off a bit earlier, and turn the car down into the corner without a lot of steering wheel angle. Be patient, and apply the throttle only once the car is heading where you want it, and has rotated enough to get the rears working a bit. Now pick up the throttle, and you should feel the car bite. The easier you drive it into the corner, the earlier you can get back to the gas, but you might find that you start to heat the right rear more than the right front as you do this, and the car will get loose. You need to find the right amount to push the car in order to keep it balanced. A very slight brush on the brakes can do wonders on the way into a corner to get the front planted, and enough speed pulled off to get back on the gas. No need to mash the brakes—that’s another great way to overheat the fronts and move yourself to the back!

Once you have gotten comfortable with altering your driving style while lapping, and seeing how you can move the car from tight to loose and back again, then you might start to play with the car setup in order to fine tune things to be just how you like them. Pay close attention to how the tires are wearing, as much as to the temperatures. Remember that you can dramatically change the temperature and wear simply by changing how you drive, in addition to changing the setup. The keys to setting up the Nationwide car are to keep the front splitter as close to the ground as possible, and to get the four tires to share the workload as evenly as possible. The baseline setups do a good job at both, so if what you really want to do is race, just load the right setup for the track you’re driving, and forget it.

One small disclaimer: remember this is a preview of the new model; there are some features that are not done, such as smoke pouring from your locked up tires. We're still hard at work on completing it, but most of the important stuff is in there. I think it's fair to say that all of us here at iRacing and our dedicated crew of testers can't wait for you to try it--it is a ton of fun.

We hope you like this upgrade to our simulation, and rest assured we’ll continue to improve it for a long time to come!

-Dave Kaemmer

Source

The Best of FVA Compilation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-bX3h5ZIMA

I know some may have seen this, some may have seen every video in it already, but some people may enjoy seeing this.

Shimmering Trees:
Perhaps you changed you MIP Bias settings by mistake. Firstly make sure in your Windows graphics card control panel the you're using application controlled for AF and AA. Then in LFS, put up the Mip bias settings to max. I've found the one that makes the outlines of the trees 'shimmer' is the Mip bias (x.x) objects / walls: setting. The lower it is, the more they shimmer.

Also the AA settings, if set too low can cause the edges of the trees to 'shimmer'


The higher you go with theses settings the more load your system has to deal with.


FPS:
Not ever used softTH myself I don't know how optimal it is for FPS. Looking at your previous 3-screen image shot (warped image) it's only at 39 FPS and the single screen shot (photoshopped pic) is barely 55 FPS. Unless you turn down your graphics settings, smoke,skids off/sky off/ low level of details etc, I don't think you can expect much more than 40 FPS with tripple screen at 90 degrees angle on the screens. You might get more FPS if you don't reder three screens separately (zero degrees screen angle).
Basically turn off all high graphics levels and slowly turn things on until you learn which things have the worse effect on your FPS.

Edit: re-reading your post, it must be the softTH stuff messing up the FPS. Re-install it from scratch maybe? and redo the config files for softTH. Anyways maybe the stuff about the trees helped you a bit.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sun 12 Jun 2011, 02:48.

Quote from fnixws :

.
Id like to have the secondary screens on a 90deg angle, but the game doesnt go that high
Of course it does.
.
.

How it should look: (Note photoshopped to 3 screenies)

I've easily made that configuration with 90 degrees between the screens to btw. If you can't make the Screen Angle higher, make the Main Screen FOV higher first. I can't understand what the problem is?

Use custom view and set to Centre View with the button on the right. Here's the rest of the settings.



Note View Offset=0.0 and X offset=0.000m
Tweak the Y & Z offsets (fore/aft & up/down) of the seat to get it exactly how you want it.

I'd suggest:
- re-arranging your physical monitors at 90 degrees as well.
- set up the wheel on the side of the main monitor, unless you have a mclaren F1.

Last edited by JasonJ, Thu 9 Jun 2011, 09:14.

Quote from AstroBoy :

.
Also what are some good private leagues that wouldnt be to bad for a Aussie besides Isra?

Jump into the Aussie/NZ club forums at iRacing where the private leagues post info about upcoming races.
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/forums/show/612.page
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/forums/show/613.page

Quote from NSX_FReeDoM :

lol i dont know. It's just I just find it really hard to keep it in a straight line. You know that little kink at the start of the pit straight after the last corner at Silverstone? I have to be really easy otherwise I would just spin out :S

Try lower the watts link a few clicks. eg if it's 235 make it about 197. This will make it a little less loose on exit and more understeery. Then when your throttle control is more pro and you're more relaxed and confident, put it back up again.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sun 29 May 2011, 19:48.

Exact same race was full last week at Watkins. Something brewing at that time slot Fri 0:45 GMT?

Well the site is back. Just refresh.

Quote from DeKo :

Wait, we lost iRating from registering the first time?

Quote from iRacing.com :

Thank you for the help.

We have collected data associated with the QA event which is now completed.

Everyone who has registered for the event will get credit.

There was no iRating or SR impact for those associated with this event.

.

I managed to register - 10:00min left - 997 racers registered - but it's not climbing and I get auth. denied when trying to test the car. So don't hold your breath.

I know this is just repeat of what's on the iRacing thread, but it is impressive and I thought others without access would like a looky. Dale's sitting in a PC rig cockpit down near the crowd. He has his own local screen and the big screen is from a spectator account. Eric H. from iRacing says it's "1024x768 ... it's what fit best with their screen handling software"



http://lockerz.com/s/100510865


http://yfrog.com/gzmlgzfjj

Another Pic: http://twitpic.com/4vz1x0

Article: http://www.jrmracing.com/news/ ... torsports-briefing-may-10
VIDEO: http://www.charlottemotorspeedway.com/media/news/589207.html

Last edited by JasonJ, Thu 12 May 2011, 01:06.

Quote from AstroBoy :

I am a winnor at Daytona in the trucks 50 lap green run i managed to pit at the right time come out in first held off the guy on my bumper by holding the inside line to a easy win
Well done, I remember my first truck wins at Texas. Quite nice. Then I eventually got into top splits in the trucks.

So um why arent V8 supercars used more?
V8's are unpopular I know, but the Aussies get on 'em Monday nights AEST 6:45pm & 8:45pm - the night before the track changes. There will be about 60 ppl there tonight. AUS/NZ S2 - V8 Supercars Sunday & Monday Nights (AUS/NZ discussion forum) I think they are running sunday nights to - check the thread for more details. These race results are listed on the official V8 Supercar website online series results.
Also you can select the V8 in your dashboard race planner and you'll see when the other countries have sessions planned to. Usually on the weekends at about 4:45am your time.

And if you start a race with people in it but only you finish because the others left why doesnt it count?
For a race to go official and to earn iRating score you need minimum 6ppl in Rookie & minimum 8ppl in other classes. (SC 5.2.2)
Safty Rating in unofficial races only weights as 35%. (SC 3.6.2)
SC: Sporting Code is available under the resources tab on the members homepage.

edit: beaten by Boothy while I was looking up all the info.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sun 8 May 2011, 16:01.

Quote from Grant Reeve 5/5/11 :

no, it has nothing to do with the NTM. it's just the old tire model with fiddled numbers. The car feels really greasy to me with these tires on it. But neither version feel anything like the NTM.
I don't know why Eric was fooling with the tires - and in fact he can't remember why either, lol. but I'm all for just leaving the old tires and cars alone until we can put out the NTM.

nothing to see here folks.
source

meh, I meant new surface interaction physics in the latest release v2011.04.26.02

OT/LoL?/ cars feel so much more "planted" in 2.0

I've caught some amazing slides where the car was crossed up big time bouncing outta shape where as before I would have lost it for sure. Good fun.

As soon as you give such immunities as you've described, then people will exploit them..

"haha that guy hit me last race, now he is spinning I can ram him (accidental like) and only HE will get 4x mwahahah"

"Oh this loser is on blue flag, I'll just 'accidently' tap his ass off in the entry and I won't get any 4x" mwahaha

Plus another 100 other ways to abuse such simple rulings. It's not so simple to lay blame, especially with software algorithms.


You're gonna lose SR no matter what you do. You want to level up, you will lose SR it's a fact. Everyone has this issue, yet many have good SR and higher licences. They are not magically invincible.

edit: oh now I have just seen you've resorted to insults, why bother helping you understand. Figure it out yourself. BTW I also think it's way too easy for R>D>C promotion, I did it in a few days, but I guess they have to give noobs some hope or else they will throw their bottles out of their prams and never play and say the game is shit.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sun 1 May 2011, 17:28.

Quote from Alien_CZ :

..
If you have C class you can participate in Grand Am where you can get high sr.

There are no Grand Am sessions in this week.

Quote from Alien_CZ :

I drove about 20 laps without 1x and get about +0,03.

Or you can take part in a 20 lap rookie race in wk13 where some people cannot drive in a straight line and get about the same result.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sun 1 May 2011, 06:58.

It's not dumb. It's not perfect either. It's designed to keep those fools who are crashing into you out of top class events.

The people involved in the most crashes stay at the bottom, those involved in less crashes can stay at the top and race in clean races. You get penalized, yes. Sometimes when it's not you're fault, but the same is for everyone so what might seem as unfair you you personally is in fact fair to everyone as a whole.

You're going to have crashes when ever you race esp in rookie events which is what all official races in wk13 are. The SR system by it's seemingly 'dumb' intelligence can still separate stupid drivers from the safer drivers over a long period of time. No system they can program could decide who is right who is wrong, just look at any iRacing forums, you get 50/50 in agreement of who is at fault in incidents discussed - how can a software system decide who is at fault when humans can't even decide?

This way blame is not a factor, but simply you're ability to stay safe. If you're a safe driver and you're getting a few knocks, then any unsafe drivers will have far more knocks and are getting far worse SR loss.

If you want to gain SR in wk 13 you must either do Time Trials alone - or - be driving Miss Daisy to the extreme and assume everyone else cannot drive to save themselves. Also start from pits or have psychic powers in T1.

Quote from NSX_FReeDoM :

Anyone know whats a good brake force curve factor for the NIXIM brake mod?

Pretty sure they tell you to use 0.00 curve factor - or maybe that's buried deep in the iRacing forums. The higher the number towards 5.00 the less linear the brakes work. A higher number means the beginning of the brake movement there is very little brake input, and at the end the movement the input amount accelerates. This is very hard to use as the brakes jump into overdrive the harder you press. You can see this effect by pressing the brake halfway and sliding the brake curve factor slider simultaneously.

I made my own Nixim mod out of a rubber stopper and I have about 1/3 free movment then the pedal hits the rubber, which is almost the locking point of the brakes in game. I have to give an extra amount of force to lock up. I'm using 0.00 brake curve factor (linear).

After installing the mod you MUST recalibrate your brakes in the logitech profiler because the brake end point has changed with the mod - you can no longer fully compress the rubber and get the pedal completely to the end. (Mine only go about 2/3 down now). To recalibrate the logitech g25/g27, unplug the wheel's USB and plug it back in. Then open the wheel properties screen with the brake and gas indicators in RED and GREEN(fig1). Then depress the brake/gas/clutch as far as you can. Then close the properties screen and open a new iRacing session. Next recalibrate the brakes in iRacing(fig2) and set the brake curve factor to 0.00. You must do this recalibrate in iRacing for each car you have assigned custom controls for.

Last edited by JasonJ, Sat 30 Apr 2011, 12:13.

yes

Quote from DeKo :

yeah, only in Rookie and D races (Carb Cup for example) do you get the quick repair, in the Class A races you don't get a tow or repair.

oh yeh duh.
You don't get the tow repair but you still get the tow and repair... simple!Sometimes you have to have your head in two places at once. Old and new featurettes