Quote from BastianB :

Same here, but the 16GB version. Got it for free from the company...

I use it for phonecalls. That's it...

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

But it looks like you're in your dads car, almost as bad as driving around in a Rover 75 and everyone thinking you're in your granddads car.

Still better than driving around in a VW Polo and everyone thinks i'm in my girlfriends car...

I've had countless rc cars in my life so far. The most reliable and good performing buggies i ever had were the inferno models from kyosho. I think they offer them with brushless systems these days.

Bottom line for this hobby... it's gonna cost you in the long run, a lot. That's why i stopped a few years ago.

I was so tempted to get it today... but then i said i'm not gonna buy into this crap anymore... must resist!

The game looks fun i must admit. Nevertheless, from every little "review" i've read so far, it seems nobody was actually excited about the physics. People say it's fun, looks and sounds nice, etc. However, the biggest gripe still seems to be the controller issues (wheel and joypad)... there's several threads on gtplanet in the shift section with settings for wheels and pad, to make the game "playable"... which is quite a bad sign IMO.

As much as i'd like to try this, i know i'll be frustrated in the end. I think i'll wait till i can get a cheap copy somewhere.

Quote from BlakjeKaas :

The distance just is TOO BIG!

It's not, you just have to take a leap of faith.

Quote from vistaman :

Wuiiiiii!! Santa Dope is there and brings Gameplay videos!
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YowOgc6LYt8
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMr83JycPW4

Looks like you don't need to stay on the course to drive fast... is that some kind of arcade setting? If not... dear lord.

Notice there's a time instead of meters, which means i made it to the top...

I won't spoil what's in the package...

Quote from e2mustang :

u gonna put 215 tires on a 9 inch wide rim?

Not a very smart idea, but it'll work...

http://tyrestretch.com/9_215_40_R16/

Almost made it to the top... i have no idea how to clear the last leap right before the top!

Quote from DevilDare :

Ahhh. Not bad then.

Could pick one up on eBay for around 350 (~400 EU) quid. Probably less if you bothered searching.

It's a special edition, which is a bit more rare. Normal ones go for around 400-600 over here. Regarding the condition and the fact it's a special edition, it was a very nice price.

Quote from (SaM) :

So now you have 2 MPC2000XL and one MPC1000?

1 x 500
1 x 2500
2 x 2000XL

It's like pokemon... gotta collect them all! :P
(On a serious note tho, i'm thinking about selling the 500 and 2500)

Last edited by jibber, Mon 28 Mar 2011, 23:16.

300 Euro.

After a little cleaning, the thing looks like brand new! What a steal!

This is great! 18.3m

Some early impressions from GTplanet:

Quote :

The Driving Physics
There’s been a lot of discussion of the new “Elite” physics mode introduced in Shift 2. Unfortunately, I didn’t find it particularly challenging with a steering wheel. With a Logitech Driving Force GT, cars often felt “floaty”, as if it was difficult to keep the car pointed straight. I found this to be less of an issue with older, heavier cars, which provided a more rewarding driving experience.
Regardless, it was difficult to “feel” where the tires were at in terms of lateral grip. There was little communication through the wheel’s force feedback in corners, and the surprisingly unpleasant tire squeal sound was either “on” or “off” -- as if it was activated only after the tires had exceeded their limit. These are two of the most important indicators of how hard you’re pushing a car in a video game, and they’re sorely missed in Shift 2.
I also found there to be a general lack of oversteer in the physics model, most noticeable in powerful, rear-wheel drive cars. I took a Shelby Cobra 427 to Road America with stock tires, for example, and found it difficult to create any power-induced oversteer. I experienced this same unnatural level of grip while testing the Corvette C6R and many other cars.

It’s Fun

Despite a physics engine which will leave sim-racers wanting more (ok, a lot more), this is a fun, exciting, and intense driving game. Without doubt, the Shift series is definitely headed in the right direction. I had an absolute blast racing with other members of the press during the many LAN races held in the EA offices, and that’s what really matters.

Quote from Töki (HUN) :

It was a good price... i know, i have one already...

Last edited by jibber, Sun 27 Mar 2011, 19:34.

Well, the diff held up fine, until i've abused the living sh*t out of it.

I'm not joking when i say i was sideways the whole day in almost every corner. They even gave me a nickname in the pits... "The drifter".

I will probably not do this again in such an excessive way. I've learned my lession. Spirited driving and some tail out moments here and there are no problem however.

I like to replace it with an OEM one, since i like to keep this car stock. It's a great car and i love the handling (with all the things that are "wrong" with it, like bump steering (earlier models), etc.).

Plus i've been told by several people, including a high up tech guy from honda switzerland, that if you make the diff stronger (replace it with a better one), other parts might break instead, like the driveshaft, or transmission, etc. This would be a little more expensive to fix than a new (used) differential.

And again, i really like this car how it is from the factory. I'm not gonna risk ruining the smile on my face when i drive it, by replacing stuff with aftermarket parts.

PS: The "used" diff has 17'000km on it, it's like brand new for the third of the price a new one would cost me.

Quote from masternick :

i have never seen anybody break a diff because they kept both wheels spinning for a long time, maybe if you run no oil or some really bad oil in it then it will do that but the biggest killer is the shock from launchs, harsh gear changes and clutch kicks

most of the time something else will break befor then tho, like in my 180sx i would break the gearbox or the clutch would slip befor the diff let go

A diff will not simply break from one moment to another (at some point it will eventually, but not after 5 minutes of spinning your wheels). But if you keep spinning your wheels you'll put premature wear on the diff. Which can cause it to break earlier than it should. A diff running too hot is the problem, and if it gets too hot, the oil won't be able to do its job anymore.

It's what my dad told me at least, and he's been in automotive engineering for half a century. I think he knows what he's talking about.

There is a guy at the company i work for. In his previous job, he was an engineer for a huge truck company. He told me not too long ago how they would test the durability of new differentials for their trucks years ago... they would simply pour water under the wheels of a truck, lock the truck in place, and then spin its wheels and see how long the diff would hold up. This guy was also in automotive engineering for years.

So who should i believe, a guy on an internet forum, or two engineers who have several years of experience?

And if you read up on the S2000 and diff issues, you will find that many people warn from excessive drifting/burnouts with this car, because the differential is the first thing you'll break. It's a known fact.

Last edited by jibber, Fri 25 Mar 2011, 19:45.

Quote from Jakg :

But what part actually breaks? Like I said, I thought it was just a driveshaft and a few gears - what would it care if it was going sideways as straight?

Depends. It can be just a bearing going bad, resulting in more damage if you don't fix it... or it can be the gears inside the diff, broken tooth, etc.

The diff doesn't have to do any work when going straight. Did you watch the video logitek posted? It's a good explanation of how a differential works.

My dad worked in car engineering, and i remember how he always told me not to spin the wheels for a long period of time on snow, because it would eventually do damage to the diff. Going sideways is the same, the diff has constant work to do. If you stress it too much, it can get too hot, which will cause it to break eventually.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

It is an OEM replacement, it just stops the snapping you get from a normal LSD. For a fast road car/track slag it is spot on. Not so good for doritos though.

I'm no expert, so i wouldn't know. All i know is i love how this car handles with the OEM diff.

Last edited by jibber, Fri 25 Mar 2011, 09:21.

Quote from Jakg :

Stupid question - how does one kill a diff?

Driving sideways in almost every corner of a track, for a whole day. Like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3mc3eChIrY (LOL @ 4:45 )

Differentials aren't made to whitstand stuff like that for a long/constant period of time.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

Ahem!.

Could save yourself some dime by searching around.

I guess this would change handling characteristics of the car. And that's really the last thing i would want.

Last edited by jibber, Fri 25 Mar 2011, 08:09.

Quote from Shotglass :

any unusual car is mighty expensive to own

Yeah, but it's a honda!

I've read they used parts from mazda for the diff internals. I don't think a new diff for an mx-5 costs 3'500 Euro. Some people use internals from KIA, since they fit, and are the same material/quality.

I can understand that for example the engine of an S2000, is something you cannot compare to an average civic engine, but something like a diff shouldn't cost this much, especially if there isn't anything special about it.

Quote from Boris Lozac :

who needs a machine for desk crumbles..

Crazy women who are obsessed with cleaning after their men when they eat a sandwich...

Picked up a used diff for the S2000 yesterday. New one from honda would be 3'500 Euro. The one i picked up has 17'000km (it's like new) and cost me 1'000 Euro.

Clutch (material and work) will be another 1'300 Euro...

Damn, this car sure is expensive for a HONDA!

I'll soon get a new clutch and diff for the S2000. The diff is on my account (too much sideways fun on the track), the clutch... i don't know, early models are known to have issues, i guess it was just bad luck it went so early (80'000km).

I have talked to a tech guy from Honda switzerland regarding the differential. I was thinking about getting something stronger since the OEM diff was ruined after a little bit of drifting (okok, sideways for a whole trackday). The tech guy said it's a bad idea in general to replace the diff with something like a mugen diff... first of all the mugen costs a fortune, and more importantly, he said if you make the diff stronger, the next time something else will break instead of the diff. He strongly advised to replace it with an OEM one.

I dunno about the clutch, probably not such an issue like the differential, but i would suggest an OEM one aswell. There's plenty of threads on the S2ki forum from people who replaced their OEM clutch with something else and are having some kind of issues.

Quote from ColeusRattus :

Hm, I didn't encounter the "bouncing" cars... unless you mean the screen shake, but that didn't bother me at all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOiue66NvhE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9Gf4fKKoEE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NFdXu4Bumk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0-M05nH3os

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0-M05nH3os

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aijVtF_yckU

Need more?

They "fixed" it with a patch long time ago. It wasn't that bad anymore after the patch, but it was still there... it's the reason why i sold my copy.