Hello.

Do you guys have any idea as to when the people who were invited by beta testers (those 10 ones which each beta tester could invite) will be able to join this "first wave"?
In fact I guess those 10 invited people from each tester are the ones who will be called the first wave. Is that it?

Anyone with a invite already got their "go ahead" for subscription or something?

Hello.

Do you guys have any idea as to when the people who were invited by beta testers (those 10 ones which each beta tester could invite) will be able to join this "first wave"?
In fact I guess those 10 invited people from each tester are the ones who will be called the first wave. Is that it?

Anyone with a invite already got their "go ahead" for subscription or something?

Thanks a lot!!

Quote from Töki (HUN) :

Have you reinstalled the whole system? Maybe that helps. With better config you can't get worse FPS...

Yup.

In fact I've got a little improvement (4-5fps) with a better processor.
And I've got a new VGA incoming but that should not help at all (from what I read around here).

I"ll only get inferior performance cause I"ll be using a higher resolution than I used to sport. Of couse I've gained a (little) performance boost with the upgrade.
The situations is that since I only gained 4-5fps I'm pretty sure that with a massive resolution change like this (from 1440x900 to 1680x1050) those 4-5gps will be gone and some more.

THAT's how I"ll probably be getting less FPS, even with a considerable better PC :/

Quote from Kniebeejs :

try the new Y22 patch. Everyone is getting better frames with it

Yeah, I'm using the Y22.
I was using it before the upgrade.

But I'm not talking about FPS "per se".
I'm talking about my "new fps with the new pc (on a new resolution)" compared to the "old fps with the old pc (and the old resolution)".

Are those figures right?
Should I be having such a small improvement (on the same old resolution) with my upgrade and will I lose that much FPS (even with the upgrade) changing my resolution from 1440x900 to 1680x1050? :/

Well, I've changed my A64 3000+ (@2300mhz) for a X2 4200+ (@2800mhz).
Kept the mainboard.

Still haven't changed my 19" display (1440x900 - I'm going to change it for a 22" 1680x1050) cause the VGA (8800GT Superclocked) did not arrive yet.

But I'm led to believe that the VGA will not make a difference at all.
That LFS is quite "cpu-bound" and that a stronger processor would make more difference.

Now I've got 500mhz more (I know LFS doesn't take advantage of multiple cores) and all I've got (on the very same settings and test I did before on my old processor) are whoopin' 4-5 fps!!!

Is that it?
With a much stronger processor and VGA on a higher resolution I will just have to deal with a lot worser fps? :/

Man that's depressing.

Quote from th84 :

You got off cheaper than I did.

Friend of mine...

Ok, now that's just some great programming!
Thanks a lot, Scawen. Great work!

I did a quick test with a replay here:

On Y20, last car on the grid. I had 58fps.
Now on Y21, I've got 71fps.
While on the same first lap where once I had 69fps, now I'm above 85fps.

That's just fantastic!

Hello, I've got the following PC:

MSI K8N NEO4 Platinum (Nforce 4 Ultra)
A64 Venice 3000+ (@ 2300 MHz)
Alligator 1200+ Heatsink
SevenTeam 420W
HD SATA II 320 GB Samsung (16MB Buffer)
2GB Ram DDR Samsung TCCC Dual Channel (2 x 1GB @ 440MHz - 1T)
Geforce 6800GS CO SE eVGA 256MB (500/1200) PCI-E

I run LFS on a 19" LCD Widescreen at 1440x900 without any problems.
4xAA 8xAF, "maximum details", etc.

I get pretty good FPS with it.

Now, I'm after a 22" LCD display (1680x1050) and I think I should update my old-ass PC just a little bit to go with it.
I was thinking on upgrading my VGA to a 9600GT and upgrading my CPU to a X2 4000+ (apparently the best my mainboard supports).

So... would it be enough to keep my FPS on LFS with the same settings (only the resolution changed, of course) as it is today with those two new parts?
I know that the 9600GT is far superior than my 6800GS but I think that LFS is a lot more hungry on CPU than GPU, am I right?

I've got a pretty old processor on that A64 but it's running rock solid at 2300mhz for years now and since LFS only supports one core... would it make a noticeable difference from my old overclocked 3000+ to this "new" X2 4000+ (I guess both run similar clocks)?

Thanks for any advice!!

Quote from xaotik :

I'm not exactly sure when it resets itself, but it does on occasion.

ALL tracks?
On ALL LFS copies? That doesn't make sense. :/

Quote from xaotik :

Set it to update from all cars, run a few laps with "rubber lay" set to 2 for example then revert it to 0.6 and set it to not update any more and you got yourself a brand new groove that never changes.

I guess the maximum value is 1.00.
I set it to 2.00 but after I closed the game and checked the cfg file, it was set at 1.00.

Anyway, when I did set it to 1.00 (the Rubber LAY, not the Rubber DARK, mind you) I could see a very thin racing groove.
And that's before I've let any AIs run through it.

Maybe I"ll do what you suggests to "solve" this but first I really would like to understand WHAT happened and WHY.

But thanks for the help so far.

P.S.: Does the game stores those "paths" anywhere?

Quote from xaotik :

Did you at any time get a message saying "path updated" or something like that? In cfg.txt what setting are your "Rubber Lay" and "Rubber Dark" variable at? The groove should re-appear if you race the track for a few laps (or, faster still, set 20 AIs to race it for 10 laps).

Nope, never received such a message.
By the way, I always chose to play with it without updating the path, at all (not my car path, not all cars path, no updates to the path at all).
So I guess I would never receive that message anyway.

The freak part is:
A "stock"/fresh LFS copy has a racing groove on all tracks by default, right?

I ain't seeing that, at all.

My cfg.txt:

(Saved from before I "uninstalled" my main current LFS copy)
Rubber Lay 0.60
Rubber Dark 0.80

It's the same from the Patch X and Y backups.


(From the fresh LFS Copy)
Rubber Lay 0.60
Rubber Dark 0.80


Anyway, I've never ever touched that entry on the .cfg file.

Quote from LazLoW :

Hmm. I'm not sure I quite understand... pictures?

"Stock" LFS:



The racing groove/patch is located inside the red lines.

My LFS, as of now:

I mean the racing groove/path, not that new "racing line", which is activated with the 4 key...

I'm not 100% sure that the Test Patch caused it but it really looks like the case so I"ll just link the problem I've had after installing the test patch: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=805761

Why hello.

My racing groove/patch is gone on all the tracks of the game.

I've been testing the Y19 and Y20 and didn't noticed it was gone (I was just using LFS for watching replays) till today when I've mounted the wheel for a little bit of practice...

So I went to my backup folder (I've got a backup for Patch X and Patch Y) and started that LFS.EXE...
Gone too.

Mind you, I've not used that lfs copy for many months now...
Patch X is even older, obviously, no racing groove on that too.

Last time I've raced was over two weeks ago, a 90min race and I really can remember the racing path on my game, cause I used it for guidance on entry of 2 corners...

Then I've downloaded the game again (Patch Y), started it fresh...
No racing path on it either.

Now I did not change ANY option whatsoever (and the only "option" for that is really how you want it to UPDATE and not if you want to REMOVE it, right?) or installed a new vga driver or anything like that.

All I've done was test the Y19 and Y20 and now suddenly my whole PC "can't" have a racing path on any LFS.exe I might run on it.

I'm pretty much lost over here.
Help.


(I've got a NVIDIA card, restored it to the "defaults" and no dice either - but remember, I did not change anything on it since two weeks ago, when I HAD the racing path)

Victor is my favourite Developer!



Great stuff, thanks a lot.

17-05?
Hmm, that's quite too soon
But I think I would love to be a test driver or maybe even race on some of the races.

I took a quick look on the links and haven't found anything about the race format, track calendars or race time (and it's server location...).

Can you provide this info?

Cheers.

Quote from tristancliffe :

There are no humps that need to be used in LFS. It will not increase lap times by going round them.

Thanks for the help.
I understood the "gist" of it.

I've yet to practice there but I"ll be racing on Fern Bay Gold with the FO8 and that chicane after the T1 seems to me to be taken quite agressively in order to come out fast there.

On a full fuel load it's bound to damage the suspension and if you do avoid it it will *surely* increase lap times.

But yeah, it's all a question of balance.
It's no good to run fast and wreck your car.
To finish first, first you have to finish and all that.

But, even being a crap driver, on a FO8 for instance, with a heavy fuel load there are some "curbs" and whatnot that you have to take if you want to be fast that damage your car, yes sir.

I'll just try to "reinforce" my suspension while still avoiding those "obstacles". Any tiny help is most welcome.

Quote from Bob Smith :

...

Thanks again.

Yeah, I won't be severely altering a, hopefully, good setup just for the sake of "suspension strenght".
I just wanted to know what settings I could change that would actually make a difference on that matter in case I wanted to spend some time tinkering with that.

As you all know it's above all a matter of "balance" to have a good set and winning a long race. To be able to take the most damage (when it's "needed" to be faster) and still finish the race.

I just didn't knew squat about it and know I know some.
So thanks.


ps: do we call it simply "springs" then?
ok

Quote from Bob Smith :

Most damage is taken when the suspension bottoms out. So anything that reduces the chance of this happening will likely reduce damage. So that's longer springs, stiffer springs, harder bump damping or reduced wing angles.

Understood.
Please "clarify":

Longer springs = Higher motion range (on ride height - a "taller" car)
Stiffer springs = Stiffer roll bars (those are the first bars after the ride height bars, right?)
Harder bump damping = Stiffer bump damping...

A softer rebound damping would help even more or that's nonsense?

And the reduced wing angles are good on this instance due to not forcing the car so much into the ground, is that it?

Thanks a bunch, Bob
As always, really helpful to me.

Ok..
I forgot to comment that "And, yeah if I HAVE to avoid them (like I avoided the sleeping policemen at kyoto gp long with the FO8), I will".
But what I want in this thread is KNOWLEDGE about WHAT can be done (if anything) to the suspension to make it stronger/less prone to break.

It's not only on those "controversial obstacles" that maybe my suspension setup might be lacking a certaing strenght.
There are plenty of "regular" curbs and whatnot that when on full load with a FO8 sometimes damages your car.

While other people go over those and don't damage their cars so.. probably there's some knowledge about what can be done to suspensions to make them stronger?

That's what I want to know.
I'm not asking for a magical advice for me to abuse my suspension and get away with it, I just want to know how to make it stronger to cope better with a mistake or two during a 90min race or maybe just be a little more agressive.

Hope that's not frowned upon over here.

Hello.
I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to setups and been wingin' my way into my race setups so far...

But I'm having some problems with certain combos.
FO8 at Kyoto GP Long for instance.
Those "sleeping policemen" barriers.

I would like to know what, barring simply just not going over them, could I do setup-wise to lessen my the damage taken when I ride on them?
Maybe another "obstacle" would be attacking the high curbs on the Fern enviroment too.

I'm most interested on general advice on this issue but if you want to make it more specific, the car used is the FO8.

I'm inclined to work on race setups (thus, starting off heavy and with tyres with less grip and so on, if that's important anyhow). So I'm looking forward for the suspension to last 90min or so.

I've got no idea at all of what to do.
If there's any help on lowering the car or making it taller.
If I have to soften or harden the rollbars (or what else), if the tyres would be better with more or less pressure, and so on.

Any advice will be highly appreciated.
Thanks!

Quote from Rotatox :

lol, i had the same problem when i opened mine up, took me 3 hours to work out where it went, i coulcnt find any info on the net as to its location. lession learnt, DO NOT TAKE OFF THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE MOTORS. ....if you look at teh bottom of the plastic casing, under the cogged rail (??), there is a groove. it goes in that groove, i cant remember which way, but i think its tips of the spring facing down, its been a while since i opened it up so its the best description i can give. It basically puts tension on the cogs....if you can't work it out, post a pic of the internals and ill mark where it goes Also make sure the cogs and rail (best description i can think of it) is centered up before you put it back together to make sure your steering centres and turns properly.

and yes i got mine to working condition so you can do it too

Jesus Christ.
That was fast!

It figures... Live for Speed eh, eh eh ( lol )

Thanks a lot man, I think I know where you mean it should go. And yeah I couldn't find a single picture where it shows itself on the internet. Sneaky part!

Which screws are the motor ones by the way?

Anyway now I've got get some allen keys and open up the wheel all the way, right?

Cause even If i managed to put that part on it's place without opening it I think the wheel now is only "stopping" (hittin' it's "limit") on one side, the left one, while on the right side it just "clicks" and keeps on turning forever...

So it should be a matter of opening it up (will it throw more mistery pieces to me when I remove the wheel from the base? ) "centering" the "stuff" and closing it up?

How much precision is needed for that "centering part"?
Or maybe it's just a matter of setting the parts between some limits (mechanical) and that's it, later on the wheel calibrates itself... ?

Again, thanks a bunch.

Hello!

My G25 started to smell of burning plastic (right over the "top left exhaust") some days ago...
I thought that something was overheating, probably the ffb motor, and burning some plastic that made contact with it or something like that.

So I stupidly decided to open it up and see what was up.
I thought that maybe I could use it without the "cover" to try and ease the temperature (If it wasn't anything contacting anything, just the plain old motor overheating by itself) of the wheel and get rid off that smell/danger of flaming fail.

Some time ago I opened up a MOMO without any problems and that's pretty much all my "experience" with this kind of thing.

After I removed the screws I realized that I would need to remove those 6 screws on the wheel itself and since I ain't got that many screwdrivers (seriously) at hand I decided to close it back up and stop messing with it. I would try again with the proper tools at hand...

But then, not only I wasn't able to reassemble the wheel (maybe something was out of place cause of the opening of the cover or something else?, I don't know)... a part of it came flying off of the cover!!

Now, from the very few pictures of a G25 without it's cover I couldn't locate where does that part go?

Since you guys are pretty knowledgeable on these matters... is there any kind of tutorial with pictures as to disassembling and reassembling a G25?

Will I be able to put it back to working conditions again (even if I can't get rid of that damn smell - which isn't a very auspicious thing at all)?

Can anyone please help me with this?
I'm really lost here.


Any kind at all of help is REALLY appreciated.
Thanks a lot.


PS: My english is very poor so if anything isn't clear enough please just point it out and I"ll try to clarify it.

Thanks a lot for this Flippy!
Really appreciated it.

Jesus Christ, you guys are amazing. o_O
I've saw the Blender thread today and have been fooling around with it but my results are far from "adequate".

I've got 6 skins/cars which I would like to have rendered on the same scene, it's for a team from Brazil.
If anyone could be so kind as to help me out with it we would really appreciate it!

My e-mail/MSN: [email protected]
Thanks a lot, either way

Quote from Drunken Predator :

Wow, didnt even know that! So.. we pay even 22% for the eh.. extended value of good delivery eh...

You shouldn't complain, really.

For "protection reasons" (even though we don't develop any of that kind of technology) to our "national industry" here in Brazil you're looking at about 80% of tax applied OVER THE WHOLE ORDER, product + shipping (and it's expensive to ship products over here).

On top of that, our currency is really weak, so, ehh...
It gets "kinda" hard to get a "quality setup" over here, hehe.