Built in support would be messy because the torque and power curves are a simple mathematical model that allows a reasonable estimate of their shape using the peak torque and peak power rpm and values. It's not perfect as it is. Adding a mathematical model for restriction would deviate quite a lot from LFS' results probably. Your best bet is to take the current vehicle and edit the engine specs. You just need to enter the new peak torque and peak power, and their rpm as given by LFS.
Where do ideas for new aero bits come from then, I wonder?! Some teams work hard to think up how to clean the airflow in a certain area or direct air to another component. Then other teams see it and think "ooo, that's a cool looking piece". They figure out what it's for and adapt it to their car, and that's fine. Toyota just copy every bit they see and expect good results by the looks of it.
The little thing on the sidepod actually looks very similar to that of last year's Williams, the mirror mounting is Renault. The hollow thing coming out of the sidepods, probably to get rid of some dirty air is a McLaren thing I think.
Since when is selling your account illega? As far as I know, it's perfectly fine, just buying an account is ill-advised since you're buying something that comes with possibly bad history.
I actually like the look of that, way more so than the Ferrari. Note the detailing ahead of the sidepods - and that bit that goes right through to ahead of the front suspension. And there's a sort of spoon outside the sidepods that scoops air in and there's a hollow bit around them. Very pretty if you ask me.
All the RWD cars are on the to-do list (and probably the 4WD ones). I'll be revising every setup I posted so far apart from the FZR one which I'm happy with. Having seen that it's possible even for the FZR, I'm sure I can get some balanced all-rounder sets for the rest. Progress will be slower now though - I've been lazy for long enough, gotta get some real work done.
This will do 1:07.xx and it's much more stable I think. I've already got an early version of the XRR setup but it still needs work before I'm happy with it.
EDIT: Tried it on some other tracks too. It's just the kerbs that upset it really. I'm working on rectifying that and I'll post an updated one later.
EDIT2: Here is the updated setup. It's now called "RealRace" because it works well pretty much on every track, except South City where it would need a few camber tweaks at least, and more downforce.
As for viscous coupling, the way that works is that there are two "propellors" coming from each wheel in a box of high viscousity oil (similar to the stuff used in automatic gearboxes) as well as the normal open differential connection. The higher the viscousity of the oil, the more like a locked diff it will behave - meaning that the wheels will tend to equal equal speed rather than equal force and thus a greater force on the outside wheel. This gives you more yaw torque (torque causing the car to rotate into the corner, if it's too little you will understeer, if it's too much you will oversteer). Also, at low (driveshaft) speeds, the diff behaves more like an open diff and at higher speeds it behaves more like a locked diff because of the nature of the connection.
I really find it quite managable. Though that's quite driving style specific so people might want to understand the principles behind diff tuning so that they can tweak them so that they are just right. Todd specifically told me to use as little preload and coast locking as possible though. And for me, it works.
After a lot of effort and hair-pulling, and tweaking and more hair-pulling (note the setup version number), finally, here's a decent FZR setup. Niels helped quite a bit with the damping.
People still fail to realise that auto-clutch in LFS keeps the clutch in way longer than it needs to be kept really. This makes the clutch slip and causes it to heat up.
If you are going to post making referrence to how the clutch heats up on starts, unless you are using a manual clutch, shut up.
I think the reason it doesn't work is due to the type of limiter in LFS - I don't know too much about it but someone had posted explaining that there are two types and the one in LFS simply lowers the throttle input keeping the revs stable rather than going on/off.
Looking good!
(EDIT: BTW, to take a screenie of the current app you can use alt-print screen instead of just print screen and using paint to chop some bits out as you seem to be doing)
Nice one guys. I thought about doing a translation a while back but there were hardly any bulgarians on the forum and my Bulgarian is totally rusty from living in South Africa.
The higher engine inertias have had somewhat of an impact on handling (towards realism). You now need a more open coast locking factor to get rid of the understeer into the corner. Refer to this thread: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=35229
I have absolutely no idea how you manage to overheat the clutch in normal driving on an open wheeler or GTR car (apart from the FZR) as they use a sequential box. You basically can't flatshift. I guess your racing skill is no better than your personality. Hopefully you will leave the forums now.