+1 !
,
or, you ~could superglue it to the pavement alongside that old notebook I suggested a while back
...just the luck of the draw with cheap crap really, it's probably just down to quality control
Where's your effing manners you effing retard?If you have nothing nice to say or can't conjure up some constructive criticism shut the f*ck up
Just buy Windows XP pro, if you shop around you'll pick it up for sixty quid or so
Or do what Amplifier said, but be warned if you're not fluent with the microsoft management console you will put yourself in a situation whereby all contents in your PC, everything you do on it and everything connected to your PC is owned by someone else if you follow his advice
Just buy a new disc, tis a fraction of the price of a new PC!
Gym Life
I'm under doctors orders and have signed up to my local gym
First off I have a few questions and I know this is the type of discussion for local boards but I don't like the Irish boards so I'll ask here if I may.
Footwear, what brand?
Diet?
How often should I go to start off because the last time I exercised my legs turned to jelly and I fell over ?
I am stopping smoking after eight or so years, am I going to die in the gym?
How to cure cramps etc.?
Is it true about the women in gym's?
First off I have a few questions and I know this is the type of discussion for local boards but I don't like the Irish boards so I'll ask here if I may.
Footwear, what brand?
Diet?
How often should I go to start off because the last time I exercised my legs turned to jelly and I fell over
?I am stopping smoking after eight or so years, am I going to die in the gym?
How to cure cramps etc.?
Is it true about the women in gym's
?If you say you knocked it over the other day then my money is on there being a hardware problem. First I'd try to eliminate the HDD being faulty, and as far as I know the only way to to test this unless you've got a second HDD to test on is to run a live CD or live USB.
If you boot up Ubuntu and everything seems normal then hardware error is eliminated, the easiest way out imo is to download Gparted live CD, boot it up and create a second ntfs partition, move all your personal data to the partition and simply re-install Windows
If it's still borked after a fresh install and or installation of Ubuntu the problem of identifying which piece of hardware will be very tricky as something like the solder on the rear of the board may have come loose and only making partial continuity with the rest of the system.
Good luck
If you boot up Ubuntu and everything seems normal then hardware error is eliminated, the easiest way out imo is to download Gparted live CD, boot it up and create a second ntfs partition, move all your personal data to the partition and simply re-install Windows
If it's still borked after a fresh install and or installation of Ubuntu the problem of identifying which piece of hardware will be very tricky as something like the solder on the rear of the board may have come loose and only making partial continuity with the rest of the system.
Good luck
Get Gparted live CD and see what it see's
Glad to hear all is OK
BTW the pic's you posted would get any stereo-fitter sacked on the spot in my book.
Those fins are supposed to be used to secure the cage to the dash, not the cage to the head-unit, how on earth did they bend the fins inwards if the unit and cage were inside the dash, ..it's possible the cage and unit could have been removed as I see no fins bent outward to secure it to the dash....anyway I hope you used the correct cage that came with your unit, if not it's not the end of the world just makes life harder if you need to remove it again( as you know now )
BTW the pic's you posted would get any stereo-fitter sacked on the spot in my book.
Those fins are supposed to be used to secure the cage to the dash, not the cage to the head-unit, how on earth did they bend the fins inwards if the unit and cage were inside the dash, ..it's possible the cage and unit could have been removed as I see no fins bent outward to secure it to the dash....anyway I hope you used the correct cage that came with your unit, if not it's not the end of the world just makes life harder if you need to remove it again( as you know now
)na mate, I keep 90% of the motor trade supplied with parts , the best in the business we are I have you know - tis hard going in winter with the HGV batteries but upside as of late is people aren't splashing out on new motors so old cars requiring new parts means me happy
Only thing Halfords are good for is their own brand hand-tools and their ever nice selection of racing DVD's.
attack locking fins then, this is a clarion cage I have in the cupboard 
Bah!! tis simple - look at the two tabs in the pic above, they press inward on the two sides of the unit to lock it in, the key's(or any slim object)simply pushes the tabs away from the unit to let it free...
Just pull the ruddy thing ! HARD ! ! ! watch your fingers...
Just pull the ruddy thing ! HARD ! ! ! watch your fingers...
WOW! sorry I've missed your post
The example key's you posted should work. One thing I've learned is that it takes more force to remove some stereo's than you might think - so, get a firm hold on the head unit with a tool or whatever is at hand that might not damage the unit and place the key's in between the cage and the radio and give it a good yank in a side-to-side motion to loosen everything up, sometimes you can feel one side of the unit disengage from the lock, if this happens remove the key on that side as this gives more room to work with.
Word of advice; watch your fingers, those cages are razor sharp, and some cheaper cages as galvanized which is very dangerous if it get's into the bloodstream.
If that fails, contact you local retailer and ask them for some key's, if they won't give them to you; give them $2 and tell the guy to go screw his mother.
If that fails, PM me your address and I'll post you a set FOC.
E:
btw, you were sliding the key's between the unit and the cage and no between the dash and the cage right?...
Last edited by CSU1, .
...Ha! twas me trying to mislead you all with my cunning proxyless powers.
It was an attempt to attract spam in order to close this shite thread sooner, I'm sory if I've mislead or insulted anyone...
Kev insulted everyone and left because he's a wanker and an attention whore just like me, who cares, imo anyone who openly insults the forum in such a way should be banned and thread locked, tut tut mods
It was an attempt to attract spam in order to close this shite thread sooner, I'm sory if I've mislead or insulted anyone...
Kev insulted everyone and left because he's a wanker and an attention whore just like me, who cares, imo anyone who openly insults the forum in such a way should be banned and thread locked, tut tut mods
...I walked off the peer because I was looking at and messing with my stupid watch and the coast-guard had to save me LOL!
....anyway, no real practical uses just a pimped watch
On weekends I do this:
...and during the week I'm a stock controller in a large yard for stuff that can't get wet
(carparts)130 euro's , need is'nt a word I'd choose here, more of a want
I dunno, I had another G-Shock model before this one and it did take a while to get used too because of it's size but this one wears more comfortable even though it's bulkier than the other model - basically I needed a sturdy watch as I'm in work more than I see my missus and kids these days so yeah it tells the temperature and what the weather is going to be like.
The small red circle indicates time on the horizontal axis and atmospheric pressure on the vertical and takes a sample at the top of every even-numbered hour, current pressure readings can be seen at any time from the barometer screen - it's not 100% accurate as change in altitude can obviously effect pressure, but for the job i need it for its a treat.
I dunno, I had another G-Shock model before this one and it did take a while to get used too because of it's size but this one wears more comfortable even though it's bulkier than the other model - basically I needed a sturdy watch as I'm in work more than I see my missus and kids these days so yeah it tells the temperature and what the weather is going to be like.
The small red circle indicates time on the horizontal axis and atmospheric pressure on the vertical and takes a sample at the top of every even-numbered hour, current pressure readings can be seen at any time from the barometer screen - it's not 100% accurate as change in altitude can obviously effect pressure, but for the job i need it for its a treat.
! I can use the power of the dragon to manipulate the weather
Construction: Shock resistance
Water resistance: 200 meters
Radio frequencies: WWVB (USA): 60 kHz, JJY (Japan): 40 kHz (Fukushima) / 60 kHz (Kyushu), MSF (UK): 60 kHz, DCF77 (Germany): 77.5kHz, BPC (China): 68.5kHz
Radio wave reception: Automatic reception (maximum 6 times per day) and manual reception options
Barometer: Display range: 260hPa - 1,100hPa (7.65 to 32.45 inHg), atmospheric pressure tendency graph (past 24 hours graph display), atmospheric pressure differential graphic (arrows displaying the latest trends in atmospheric pressure)
Altimeter: Display range: -700m – 10,000m (-2,300 to 32,800 ft.), cumulative altitude memory (memory works together with the stopwatch to record elapsed time, cumulative ascent and descent altitudes, highest and lowest altitude recorded); manual altitude memory (up to a maximum of 20 memory sets, with each set recording the altitude and the time and date measured); altitude tendency graph display; pace arrows (arrows that indicate the rate of ascent or descent.)
Thermometer: Display range: -10°C up to 60°C (14ºF to 140ºF)
Stopwatch: 1/100 second, measuring capacity: 24 hours, split time
World time: 33 cities (29 time zones, daylight saving on/off, +UTC (Universal Coordinated Time) display
Countdown timer: Set unit: 1 minute; countdown range: maximum 24 hours;
measuring unit: 1 second
Alarm: 5 independent daily alarms (of which 1 snooze alarm), hourly time signal
Others: Battery level indicator, full auto-calendar, function to change display between home time and local time, button operation tones on/off
EL backlight: Full auto EL light with afterglow
Power source: Tough Solar power system (high-capacity solar-charging system)
Continuous operation: About 6 months with the power-saving function* ON after full charge
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG