Quote from dadge :

Ingrish. Do you schpeak it?

Fluent in Dublin, bah you've not got what it takes!

Call yerself Irish Pfffffffffff

E;

but at least now yer oulone has a bit of Proper Irish in her trolalollololol

Your a good man and I'm delighted this thread came to such a nice conclusion - fair play and many a Good Race
Say no more shuuuuush

Quote from dadge :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?f ... mbedded&v=oUFyVzaWT2o

tell yer oulone niceone for lastnight mate

Quote from CheerioDM :

I am sorry but I am trying to give away a license here.
Are you sore because you are not a demo user?
Do you know a better way of going about this?
Probably not because you would never give away a license.
And you probably never troll the rFactor2 chat like I do with all the excitement LFS has given me.
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=78208
A sample of what I have given away.

Excitement must be like a T1ger for you my friend RaWWWaR XD

Please, giving away stuff is good but asking for trouble (as the thread title clearly is doing) is BAD XD

... host a simple demo race, winner gets S2 - simple.

Quote from CheerioDM :

Please tell me how I am trolling your forum.
I am genuine.
If I am happy or should I say sad about the reply posts, someone
will get an S2 license.
If you are a moderator you are obligated to tell me.

Genuine posts and discussions are born from rational questions and/or problems.
Your post is not.

If now you'd like for me to both insult you and ban you from the internets give me your ASL.

...after all, this is what you want, no?

...not a whole lot going on in your head is there? why the **** are you trolling my forum ?

Quote from CheerioDM :

Was that an attempt?

Age Sex Location Retard...give me something and I will ruin your life.

Asl? Xd

E;

I will win and pass on to demo user of your choice

Aaaaaa crap!

Wth are we going to do now huh?

So, alterIW is going/gone - a lot of time for me is good memory's with this title (or this concept of development) .

Given nobody legally can give the nod and wink to develop in this way it does highlight what fundamentally is wrong with the single tracked "money-making" minds of game devs..."if it works with the update, send it out and move on."

They say Rome wasn't built in a day... they didn't re-build Rome every time they brought a surveyor in!

Point is, why destroy what obviously already works?

Last edited by CSU1, Fri 23 Mar 2012, 02:29.

Quote from Speed Senna :

LFS IS NOT dead, it's a troll simulator. That's all.

:clapclap::clapclap::clapclap:

^^

An honest cry from the neglected receipts?

Dear LFS, add keyboard binds field to car setups.

...a bit disappointing is not being able to collect pillows, in Morrowind, I had all my houses full with them and also used them to build castles in the sky.

I'd like to share this guide I found after my G25 wheel died.

Symptoms

• Shifter power light blinks, then remains dim after USB insert
  
• Pedals and all shifter buttons working via Logitech Profiler
  
• Replaced PSU, same problem exists
  
• Smell of burning
  

Cause
Inadequate self-cleaning provisions made when manufacturing the DC FFB motors, if the wheel has been left sitting in a moist environment a buildup of carbon dust inside the motors causes shorting of the PCB.

Fix

Quote from macnetwork@http://macnetwork.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/129/ :

After languishing in the garage for a few months my Logitech Steering Wheel refused to work.

Plug in USB – both leds come on briefly, then the power led goes off. Plug in power – right led comes on and flashes slowly about 12 times, then continues to flash at double speed – no wheel movement.

SOLUTION:

The power supply is easy to check and mine was producing 24V as normal.

I decided to replace the driver ICs on the circuit board, These ICs are dual channel MOSFET transistors, the IRF7103 and IRF7342. I couldn’t source the 7342 so decided to try changing the 7103 only – the result was a second or two of movement of wheel then some smoke and a small flash inside the encoder motor. That’s it! It seemed my motor (with the encoder) was shorting out the power. I had measured the resistance across the motors and found that the one with the encoder was only 5 ohms and I almost gave up at this point but decided to open up the motor to see what caused the pyrotechnics.

The coils looked ok and the only thing looking wrong was a build up of carbon ‘mud’, in the gaps between commutator contacts. I cleaned this out and measured the individual coils – now all were around 17 ohms. I also cleaned out the left motor with some solvent spray and finally both motors measured 28-33 ohms. I applied 24V and they worked perfectly!

Spurred on, I replaced the 7103 MOSFET IC once again and… success, it drove the wheel. But only one way, I needed to get hold of the 7342 IC and it could be a runner

DC motors are designed to run at high speed while power is applied and I think that’s where the problem lies with the Logitech steering wheel. In a previous life, I was a service engineer for Agfa imagesetters, which used two DC motors in a similar way, to tension film across a roller. In normal use they would move very little, so the designers incorporated a ‘motor cleaning’ routine that would simply run the motors at full speed for 30 seconds while the film was unloaded. This kept the brushes and commutator in good condition. Like a lot of other users my steering wheel wasn’t used for a few months and it was after this that it failed. I think the carbon dust from the motor brushes had turned into a conductive mud in this time (it was in a smokey damp atmosphere in my garage) and that shorted out the MOSFET transistors that drive them.

Finding a supplier for the IRF 7342 IC wasn’t easy so I bought the closest equivalent I could find from RS Components, this is catalog number RS 688 9137.

Not the greatest soldering job in the world - but it worked.

Fixed PCB

These power transistors are the last thing in the chain, before the motor, so always very likely to be the cause of a stationary wheel. Once I changed the second MOSFET IC all was well.

I also discovered that if the encoder isn’t working, the motors will stop running – they will move, but not very far. If your motors run for any time then the encoder is probably ok.
For what it’s worth, opto-couplers like on the encoder will never emit visible light – it’s always IR.
On the Circuit Board, the component marked F1 doesn’t look like any fuse I’ve seen before but since there’s no resistance across mine it may well be.
Another thing I discovered, the hard way, is that the rack and pinion gears need to be aligned properly. I thought I had it working but after I put it all back together the damn thing wouldn’t calibrate. I eventually realised I wasn’t getting the full 900 degree rotation of the wheel – adjusting the way the gears meshed fixed that and it calibrated perfectly. The rack should move fully to the left and right.

I hope this can help others to get their wheels working again – it seems so wrong that so many of these go to the landfill for the sake of a £1 IC. Shame on Logitech for ignoring the problem.

I’d also like to say, I am running F1 2010 on my iMac 27″ 3.06GHz Core 2 Duo and it works great. I have Windows XP on a Bootcamp partition with the game running at 1200×600 no problem at all. Running at 2560×1440 however wasn’t good.

Here’s a link to my English translation of an excellent write up by fellow wheel fixer sergioschumi.

article source...

Quote from AJS :

(he what should ive done it was not my car...) then never did see again

I don't understand this?

Quote from Fuse5 :

and this warrants a thread why?

because I'm an attention whore. (and the thread in question was locked)

*note to self - don't listen to atomant when pissed drunk*

Sorry guy's (whoever seen it) my language was appalling..

...time served


/move on...

erm, ? ... Request Granted.

Shut the **** up you old Canoe driving ****** , go **** some maple trees - Canadians are ****ing ****** bastards . ****!

LOCK THIS ****ING **GGER THREAD!.

:sadbanana

Quote from vistaman :

wth is an ostler lol

Quote :

In the Victorian times people would stay the night in pubs if the were traveling and they traveled by horse, an ostler would look after the horses at night

wtf lol

"My wife came home with carpet burns on her knees, whats with that whore?"

...56 translations later we get:

"Sofa Prostitutes, and to help your family?"

"lick my mustard"

...56 translations later we get:

"Her brother also was beaten."

----------------------------------------

"go on bitch!, smell my finger"

...56 translations later we get:

"Bad finger, dogs tmgankag ฉ time!"

-----------------------------------------

Quote from vistaman :

Pimp!

more like ostler =)

@ rockclan - you do look as if you are about to chuck straight into that bin !

Last edited by CSU1, Mon 11 Jul 2011, 18:12.

Moar!

Quote from schirmerc :

I'm new to forums, so forgive me for any etiquette infringements:doh:
So, I wanted to make a HUD for my makeshift racing cockpit. I currently use the G27, and Saitek X52 as a handbrake. I was thinking maybe I could use the display on the X52, or even better, my ipod touch or iphone - anyone have any idea how i could do this? My 2nd gen ipod touch is jailbroken with gen 2 software.

Thanks, and happy cruising
schirmerc/Christian/Der Kartoffelmeister

meh ~no.

Think about it, any HUD implementing touch-screen-tech. for fav. binds requires driver to momentarily "look" at the peripheral to make a selection...dunno about you but theres been times when I've used moisture from my armpits to lube my eyelids rather that risk blinking.


All controls must be a.within hands reach b. ergonomically functional.

Don't worry about your wheel setup, set what all settings to what feels good to you and ------ practice

also, I find that handbrake is best used with the shifter set in seq and use gear down as bind.

:sadbanana