ABS won't help you in a spin, and it wouldent be usefull going backwards anyway. ABS isn't designed to stop your car, its designed to help you steer it away from a collision. If you try to steer going backwards you will just cause another spin. I ususaly use this to my advantage and do a J-turn.

The most common misconception about ABS is that it is there to help stop your car, this is why people still hit stuff even when ABS kicks in. ABS won't magicaly stop your car, it will allow most drivers to steer around a collision with the brake pedal to the floor. Its idiot proofing that doesn't quite idiot proof. This is because most people just put the brake pedal to the floor and brace for impact, even though they could very easily, thanks to ABS, steer around.

I've asked alot of people and they all say "ABS helps you stop your car" That is NOT what it was designed for.

I personaly hate ping kickers, they piss me off so much.

I have a fast internet connection, If the server can't keep up why should I get kicked? Most of the time its just a fue seconds of high ping and it kicks you. If the ping is high, just leave, its common sence. If people don't leave when they have a high ping, they only stand a chance of loosing anyway.

Quote from G!NhO :

for better engine sounds just go here > Gills' sound workshop

download the files, put them in your "LFS/data/engine" folder, then press shift + A ingame and press load and choose the sound.

Most of those sounds arn't very good as far as the cars they actualy get used on goes.

Instead of making a starion sound like a supra, I made the starion sound like it has an inline four.

Making a car sound like something it isn't or isn't even based on is a bit silly in my opinion.

Sapphire makes good cards, I have an HD2600 and other than the overheating issue (my fault) I am very pleased with it.

Just make sure your case has very good ventelation around the graphics card, otherwhise the card will overheat.

Just about every newer card needs its own exhaust port out the back of the computer, otherwhise they overheat.

Since I noticed alot of people are downloading this, but the downloads are lopsided I thaught I'd make a note that you need to download ALL 3 files before it will work correctly

The reason they tell you not to bump start a car with a catalytic converter is because if unburned fuel gets to the catalytic converter and burns off inside it can damage it very badly.

The truth is though, out of all the times I've had unburned fuel get into the exhaust the only time I've ever had a catalytic converter burn up was on a car with a realy messed up ignition system. This car had completely destroyed contacts in the distributor cap. It missed so badly it sounded like a WW2 fighter plane after the engine was hit.

If you burn the catalytic converter in a car you will know it, it is the most discusting smell you will ever get from a car. It also sticks in your nose, All I could smell for the next week was burning converter.

Quote from obsolum :

The BF1 doesn't have a starter and yet you say you got it running again by popping the clutch Or were you referring to another car than the BF1 with "an F1"? Because there's only one F1 car in LFS

I said I started the LX4 after geting hit by someone in a BF1

If you dislike the sound you should try some modified sounds or sound packs.

I actualy did one myself.
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=51238
The only issue with mine right now is that the road cars are a little too quiet in the version I've posted, but it will make all the cars sound better.

When the new VW comes out I'm going to fix the road cars and add the new one.

These should be good for now if you want different sounds.

To install my sounds simply press Shift-A while in a car and press the pack button and select mine.

EDIT: just read what you actualy typed. I have the same problem, no mater what you set in the game the bass is always going to be high, LFS's sound engine is set up for people who don't have high quality EQs on thier system.
I have to turn my creative EQ off every time I play LFS, its a bit of a bother, but it can't be helped unless the devs add some kind of EQ setup to the car sound system.

Last edited by DragonCommando, Tue, 23 Dec 2008 05:46.

First car I ever drove in LFS was the XRT. After they took that out of the demo I drove nothing but the FBM on BL1.

When I got my licence I took the LX4 on Westhill international, thats mostly what I've been doing since then, other than driving the MRT on the same track.

I've only had my licence for a fue weeks now, and I've always wanted to drive the LX4, so as soon as I got my licence it was like "MUST DRIVE LX4!"

Most of what he says is spot on, at least in my personal opinion.

In real life you shouldent need to give it any gas.

Just pop the clutch fast, you need to pull the clutch all the way out and then put it all the way back in as fast as possible.

When I do it, my foot actualy comes off the pedal for a split second.

Thats odd, because the DFGT seems to give the same forces no matter where the wheel is at 75%.

If you go anything higher with my wheel the caster steer is way too strong, I had it at 105% in profiler and 25% in LFS and the wheel wanted to pull out of my hands in some corners in the XRT.

I don't remember how strong the G25 is, but if you can run it at 75% in LFS and 105% and it feels realistic, it doesn't sound like it's as powerful as the DFGT.

My dad used to race road cars, and when he tried LFS with the settings at 105% in profiler and 25% in LFS he said the weight of the cars felt wrong. It was only untill I put the wheel down to 75% in profiler that he said it felt right.

I was taught to clutch-dump start everything but bikes in 1st or if you happent to stall going backwards, you can do it in reverse.

In real life, at low speeds, you can restart any car in 1st, and because all my gear ratios in my cars in LFS are taken from real cars, I can do it with any car in LFS.


The only reason you have to bumpstart a bike in a higher gear is because the bike is much lighter.

The joystick port to USB adapters all suck, your best bet is to use the V3 pedals and re-wire them with the joystick insides, you just need to learn how to wire pots. Which isn't hard, it's just 3 wires that if put on wrong will just cause funny outputs to the game. Usualy you want to wire the pedal pot exactly the same as the joystick pot. You could even just use the joystick's original pot if it's the same type.

I have this exact setup actualy, I have the pedals from an Interact V3 wheel with a destroyer extreem joystick's chip inside the pedal box, I only wired one pedal as a clutch. So all I have is my DFGT and pedals, and a second pedal box with a USB cord sticking out of it.

Interact V3s are very rare wheels, the pedals are very durable, all they need is a little oil on the spring every now and then. That will stop the creaking that I'm almost positive your pedals will have developed by now.
You only need to oil them a little bit every two years or so.

I had my V3 longer than any other wheel, it was a very reliable wheel that could take quite a beating, and the pedals will last forever.

I jump started the LX4 the other day, I was lapping and some guy hit me in an F1, I spun out and it stalled because my foot slipped. (socks arn't great on pedals) So I just put the clutch in, let it roll and popped it. It started right up.

You can pop the clutch in any car in LFS and start the engine, except the cars that don't have starters. For some reason they rev up when you let the clutch out, but no matter how many times you hit the ignition button, it seems to never come back on.

If you want to get the most realistic feeling out of the wheel here's what you do.

General FFB strength : 75%

Spring strength : 0%

Damper strength : 0%

and in LFS put the FFB strength to 25%.


Thats how I got my wheel to feel realistic, driving the lighter cars feels right and then you get in the BMW F1 you go WOAH! the thing requires some strength to turn.

I use a Driving force GT though, with the G25 you might need to either increase or decrease General FFB in the profiler. usualy anything between 75 and 105% works for most people.

Just a little tip for anyone who wants to use alpha transparancy in the PSP dds plugin, go into image options on the plugins screen and check the Pre modulate color box, and then select DXT3 8bpp explicit alpha.

So thats

-Check Pre modulate color in image options in the plugin
-Select DXT3 8bpp explicit alpha in format

This will give you the best quality and in most cases will completely prevent artifacting in the finnished DDS file.

Whenever you export DDS files always click Preview first and look for artifacts, this includes little boxes around the edges of transparancy areas and lines or jaged edges that arn't supposed to be there.

For any texture that doesn't have transparancy you don't need to use DXT3, just use DXT1 with no alpha.

Quote from G!NhO :

can you show me some pics of the shifter? as i might make one for my g25 too out of a joystick

Unfortunately I can't, my camera died. When I get a new one, at which point I'll probably have the whole shifter complete. I'll make a new thread and post pics of both the knex/lego and the custom made shifters. So just watch out for that. It might not be for a while though since I'm on a tight budget right now.

I made a shifter out of lego and knex. The inside mechanics are knex and the shell and gates are lego, the shell is a monster, but the shifter has a surprisingly steady throw.

I don't have the electronics to put in it yet, but I plan on getting a BU0836X and using the first 3 axis' for a 3 pedal set and the first 7 buttons for the shifter. I'm going to build a custom shifter though.

I only noticed that bug after the patch, it seems to have something to do with tyre shape, it does apear that the tires have changed shape with the latest patch.

I could just be crazy though

Right now the only car I drive is the LX4, having just got an S2 licence a week ago, I've already found my prefered car. I don't mind the FBM, but I drove it so much in demo that I may not drive it again for a while.

Thats not to say I won't drive the other cars, I'm just on an LX4 kick right now. I've always liked the caterham, and since thats what the LX4 basicaly is, I love it.

I have a new version of these, that are more even as per requested. But I can't convert them to DDS because the photoshop DDS plugin keeps artifacting the hell out of them. once I solve this, I will post them.

The new ones look much better, I feel kind of stupid for not making them this way in the first place.

For the originals, I used what I know from making stainless steel textures, so it wasn't going to look even any way.

EDIT: Scratch what I said, I figured out how to stop the artifacting, new disks submitted

Last edited by DragonCommando, Wed, 17 Dec 2008 04:26.

I wanted them to look used, and thats what used rotors usualy look like.

If you want to see destroyed, I could put hot spots on them.

With Z5 and the introduction of spinning brake disks. the skinner in me finaly saw a need to make textures for them.

I didn't do anything fancy for them, because there's no need, however these textures are at 512x512 and I did my best to make these rotor textures.

I made these FROM SCRATCH, I didn't use a real disk for anything. I just used what I know of what a used brake rotor looks like, and the hole pattern from the original texture for the drilled one.

EDIT: new, much better textures added, I don't know why the other ones looked good to me, but these are much better, and are what I had wanted in the first place. I got them to look good without looking like just a bunch of circles.

EDIT2: Alpha fixed, the photoshop DDS plugin seems to be picky, but I managed to get it to work now.

Last edited by DragonCommando, Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:46.

Sometimes ABS helps on normal road driving sure, but if you are going to race a car, ABS can be a bad thing. What if the guy behind you doesn't have ABS? you are both slowing down as quickly as possible, and unless that guy behind you practiced for hours threshhold braking, he's not going to match your rate of deceleration.

Personaly, I will never use ABS, and I hope to get a car in real life that doesn't have it. If you know your car well, you shoulden't need aids to control it. I learned alot of techniques that help me control a car better than most people.

With the cars in LFS though, I'd think the ABS would be a little more crude. Single channel, and just modulate the brakes rapidly. Older ABS systems did infact INCREASE the brake distance over threshold braking, but decreased it significantly over locked wheels. The reason for this was that they would ususaly just modulate all four wheels at the same time and this would decrease the total stopping force of the brakes.

On modern cars this isn't the case because ABS can ususaly modulate each wheel individualy, this is especialy true on cars that have TC.

Having actualy worked on brakes for two years, I know most of the configurations for ABS. Its not hard to google it though, so anyone can learn how newer ABS systems work. I can't seem to find anything about older ABS though.

I often stop my bike without pulling the clutch in, it doesn't hurt anything at all. Repeatedly stalling it by letting out the clutch to fast can hurt the clutch and some things connected to it at either end, but it shoulden't do internal damage to the engine.