You buy cheap stuff you can't expect it to function exactly as planned.

The problem is that companies arn't following the interference codes properly anymore, so cheap stuff is picking up radio interference.

There's realy nothing you can do, just ignore it or buy something that has proper shielding in the cords and connections.

I woulden't be buying any of the 8800 cards right now, they are failing left right and center. There are several forums with tons of people complaining because their 8800 card has died, and not just one single brand ALL OF THEM.

It apears there is a defect in the chips that is causing these cards to start to "alphabet soup" after a while, on startup and durring use.

I don't normaly bias, but I would go with an equivelent ATI if you plan on getting an 8800 series. Or get something else Nvidia if you dislike ATI.

I know I'd pass on the 8800 right now, it's not worth the risk.

Quote from george_tsiros :

best cpu for 478 would be a PRESCOTT (not cedar mill. those are 775 :schwitz.

If he gets a prescott he's gonna need one hell of a cooler to keep it cool. most definately if he gets a faster one like my 3.2ghz with HT. 103w of heat is epic for a stock clock.

I run a scythe Mugen2 because every other cooler wasn't hardcore enough. My chipset temp is now higher than my CPU temp most times, they both sit around 35 degrees C. It's high, but I realy can't help that with my room temp.

@Batteryy

If you have a budget get a new computer, DO NOT use the old case either. It may seem like a good idea to save some cash, but it's not worth it in the end.

Also, Get a case WITHOUT a PSU. Buy a realy good PSU seperately. This sounds odd, but the best way to judge a PSU is weight, heavier is better. The reason for this is the capacitor quality, a good PSU will have larger, higher quality capacitors that will give you stable reliable power.

Also, do not get the absolute newest CPU, get something thats been out for a while but runs on a motherboard that will support the newer ones, this way you start with a brand new PC that has tried and tested parts. I don't mean get something realy old, but don't get something thats been on the market for less than a month. It's far better to let someone else's computer be a test bed than yours.


If you plan on sticking with your current rig, a better CPU, RAM, and a GPU are the important parts. If your motherboard supports UltraATA get some 80 conductor IDE cables if you dont have them already, round ones are a good idea.

Since you have an AGP slot, get something that supports AGP4x/8x. 7 years old might be running AGP4x still. A saphhire HD 3850 will run on either and is a realy nice card.

If you get lucky and have dual channel support, get a twin pack of DDR400 1gb sticks. If you are realy unlucky it'll be running PC2100 and you won't get the full speed, or dual channel in most cases. But DDR400 will run on it any way, so its the safer bet, and it's not expensive anyway.

For a CPU, faster is better with a P4, so a 3.2 will be better than lower clock speeds, but its also dependant on the core, you want to get one of the last cores made, like a prescott. You will need a wicked cooler for a prescott, or a case with alot of airflow, both would be ideal.

You do realize all you had to do was cut the cables, thats all they ask most of the time.

This is because the G25 uses stepper motors just like most other FFB wheels, so there is a step on either side of the center possition and it bounces between them trying to center the wheel.

You will probably notice a "dead spot" in the center of the wheel too, where some force feed back sometimes has no effect on the actual wheel.

LOL, here I am working on a prototype for a simplified shifter that feels realistic, and you people want one that has MORE moving parts

Quote from bunder9999 :

last year when i still had the speed network, they used to run these little informative interviews before the f1 events... one of them was talking about maclaren's f1 car, and more importantly, the steering wheel. from what i remember the other two paddles were actually for on-the-fly brake balance.

There's a selector knob on the wheel for that, same with other on the fly settings, and clutch maps. There are several different clutch settings for an F1, with different timing, speeds and ramps.

As far as LFS goes, there is alot of stuff missing for the F1, but considering how much there is, and the fact that you can go to garage to change the important things at any time durring practice, it's hardly a problem at all and would be alot of pointless work for the devs.

There is only one clutch, and I don't think that the OP meant there where two clutches, but he did mean there are two clutch paddles, he just didn't word it clearly.

If you do happen to have a double set of paddles on your wheel you could just use a script to run both paddles on the same clutch, there arn't any wheels that come with this standard, so it would just add time to the development of the next patch for very little gain.

If I remember correctly there are two sets of paddles on an F1 car, the upper paddles are shifters, and the lower paddles are clutches. you have two clutch paddles, one under each shift paddle.

That is what I was told when I got to look at one up close anyway.

Edit: I have confirmed that, there ARE two clutch paddles on an F1 car. but unless you have two sets of paddles on your wheel it would be a pretty usless feature in LFS.

Last edited by DragonCommando, Mon, 27 Jul 2009 23:44.

I haven't noticed a dead zone in the rotation detection, but there is a dead spot in the middle of the FFB. Perhaps that is what you are talking about?

If so, this seems to be present on every logitech wheel. however, I haven't realy noticed it on my DFGT, it seems like it's actualy smaller than on the G25 I used a while ago.

There realy isn't a way to make it go away, it's just the nature of FFB motors. Some companies deal with this problem in different ways, logitech seems to use a very simple design that makes it very noticable.

I have a 3850 and its longer than even yours, it actualy extends out from the edge of the mother board. I had to move my hard drives to fit it in.

You should watch out where the power connector for the new mother board is, sometimes they put them right next to the CPU socket, and that can cut your options for aftermarket heat sinks. I had to pull some trickery just to fit my Mugen 2 onto the board.

My realy old sound system used to pick that stuff up, I was playing a tape one day and hit stop and the music kept going, big :jawdrop: at that one

I stood there for a minute trying to figure out what it was and realized I was picking up the local radio station and the amp was playing that instead. The input switch was on tape, so there's no way the radio switched on.

It can happen on systems that arn't properly insulated or are realy sensitive.

That means bumps at every surface change, every crack, every little surface blemish.

That is alot of work, but I thought of something. What if the bumps are not on the mesh? Instead you have a "bump map" that goes ontop, it's writen by texture, so it would be realistic. I'm not talking about bump mapping as in graphics, I'm talking a surface file that goes with the road textures to define the surface of the road physicaly.

Infact, you could even use graphics bump maps now that I think about it, instead of reading the hight for lighting though, it reads if for the physical texture of the track. relief maping already works this way, it builds the surface based on the texture map. The difference is the surface doesn't have to be actualy reliefed by the map, only the simulation needs to know where the bumps are.

The textures would need to be locked, so you can't cheat by changing the surface maps, but it would be worth the loss of moding, it would add realism and the capabilty for the devs to change the road surface easily once its added.

Its just an idea, I don't know how well it would work, if at all. But it would be an inovative and interesting concept to try.

I must be a skilled racer then , I drive the LX4 every time I run LFS.

It's realy about the setup, The LXs are hard if you don't set up the suspension right.

I drive the LX4 alot, so today I took the LX6 out on westhill, did a few laps and did a 2:02.49. Thats not fast, and I made a mestake, but it's damn good for a first run with a new car/track combo. I've driven the LX6 before, but not on westhill. I found the LX6 only oversteers when I goof up on the steering, I'd imagine I could drive the LX8 without much trouble once I got the suspension worked out and found my shift and braking points.

I'd like to see a V8 period, doesn't matter what car it comes in, as long as it's not something far fetched.

You need to get the latest drivers and reinstall, or reconfigure the wheel and check settings.

uninstall the old ones, install the new ones and then plug the wheel in. After that reconfigure it how you want it and it should work, also, make sure that LFS is set to seperate axis pedals as well.

You simply can't get a uni-jack headset to work on a PC system. There isn't a jack on any PC sound card or case that will have both headphone and mic in one.

What you need to do is find a way to split the jack into two seperate jacks. so one is mic and one is headphone. But for all the trouble it's going to be, I'd say it's more worth it to get a cheap headset.

Also, plugging that one into the speaker/headphone out isn't a good idea. you are sending one of the audio channels through the mic that way.

Quote from logitekg25 :

if the drift is not at too much of an angle, then it is faster i think...it is better to have a gradual turn compared to a sharp sudden...so if you grip raced a 90 degree turn like this L it would not be faster then if you drifted it (if you did it right) so depends on the turn, and if its a deep angle drift, or a little bit of slide drift, like the vid.

It's funny to read drifters trying to say drifting is faster. It's not faster under any situation.

I'm not against drifters or drifting, I do it myself now and then. But it is by no means faster.

Simple fact is, a sliding tyre provides less potential for acceleration than a gripping one. If you slide around a corner you are losing speed regardless of what the speedometer says. If you can't get back on the throttle with full grip by the apex, you will never come out of the corner as fast as possible.

I've drifted passed slower racers before in my LX4, but I did it because I had to take a wonky line, and it was my slowest lap. Most of the time It goes the other way, someone drifts and I just pass right by them.

I've already seen servers that have this system implimented, to the extreme too. I joined a server with my clutch pedal dissabled, because it was malfunctioning.

I was presented with a kick to spec and the following message:

"This is a real sim server, a clutch and H-gate shifter are mandatory here."

Hmmmm, so just because my clutch pedal needed a pot job, I had to sit out of a race?

Note that my setup is partly custom made parts, and I didn't have brand new pots to use, so I was changing them out freqently for a while. Now I have a good pot in my clutch because I've adopted a gutted MS sidewinder wheel for my clutch and shifter.

It's probably the best wheel for PC that doesn't cost more than $200.

Since the last driver update all of the buttons work to, so you can set up the dial and buttons for things like brake balance in the cars that have it.

I personaly stopped liking MW after the second one, I used to be my bro's tech, I'd set up his mech for specific conditions and he'd do the fighting, if he coulden't win a match, I'd either re-tune the setup or actualy fight myself. When I played myself I did it all, setup, strategy and fighting.

Lizardfolk mentioned the only other mech series I liked, Earthsiege. I used to play that alot, particularly ES2. It was nearly as customizable as MW2 but had a good story line too it.

I realy wish they worked on my current computer, I'd still go back and play through Earthsiege again.

I still use IE, but thats because I don't like installing alot of stuff on my computer.

I like to keep my computer as streamlined as possible all the time. I even run a seperate hard drive for my page file. I've seen at least a small increase in speed from that, and ontop of an already well optimized PC, I run windows XP on a P4 3.2ghz HT faster than some people will see it run on dual or quad cores. Simply because they install crap.

I learned very quickly how much it can benefit you to learn how to keep your computer clean, I was running games designed for hardware two generations newer on my older computers. I ran decent frame rates in Half-life on an 8mb pci card when others where struggling to get 10fps on a 16mb agp card.


One thing I am worried about in windows 7 is that some of the tools I use won't be the same. When I first started using windows XP it pissed me off that defrag changed, and got alot less reliable than it was in 98se. I hope they finaly made a new defrag app that works as good as the old one, and kept alot of the other neat tools that I use regularly.

Quote from pb32000 :

Let's just jump back to your first post in this thread...



Do you know what you're talking about?

That is because I didn't think he would want to take the time to set it up properly, just set it for effect and leave it.

If you read later, I STATED THAT.

If someone doesn't know how to set up the equalizer, and if they have to ask about the best settings, I'd assume they don't, I just tell them to set it like that, most people seem happy with it.

Quote from Napalm Candy :

If anybody says you that the better EQ is in "V" if because he don't know nothing about sound.

The better EQ you can apply to a song or a game, if you don't know what are you doing, is a FLAT EQ, or nothing EQ, because some ingeniers before you have equalised.

Also, LFS don't have a good sound, and you can't to improve only with EQ, need more harmonics for more rich sound, and this can only do by devs

As far as the "smile" shaped EQ, most people who don't know will set it like that anyway, and it does have a positive effect in some cases, such as on lower end sound systems. It won't beat a properly set EQ, but if you are not interested in spending the time it can add a little punch to an otherwise dull sound system.

I've used it a few times myself while working with lower end equipment, on garbage speakers that have no hope on earth of ever being equalized properly.

For my taste, I like to hear everything in music, all of the frequencies have to be level, thats what I strive for, and that is what I was taught an EQ was used for, to make everything level.

I was taught that an EQ is there to adjust for differences in equipment and environment so that you can level out the frequencies so all the instruments are audible, so one doesn't drown out the other.

It's amazing what you can hear in a song with a properly set up EQ, all of the little bits that make up the song. Going from no EQ to a properly set EQ you can hear a much larger range of sounds in the music, everything from the subtle plucks of the guitar or bass, to the slightest under tones of a piano or violin.

I've spent hours training myself to be able to detect the slightest difference in sound. I still havn't quite got the ear for music my dad has, since he's been doing it for a long time, but I'm getting there.

Quote from Feffe85 :

why? because my onboard soundchip sucks, and i rather have some low freq bass, instead of the cutting i get when having the 200Hz @ or below 0dB..

That would just drive me nuts.