That sounds like another problem, if one of the FFB motors was gone the other one would still provide force in both directions, you would just get less powerfull FFB.
Something else is wrong, and you either need to troubleshoot, or get the wheel replaced.
Something else is wrong, and you either need to troubleshoot, or get the wheel replaced.
I think other driving achivements could also be encorporated into the system, not just race ones.
-Win a race after a spin
-Recover from a spin without dropping a position
-J-turn back into a race *in a safe manner* <= I have done this before
I could probably write a whole page of these.
We should create a list of these and see where it goes.
-Win a race after a spin
-Recover from a spin without dropping a position
-J-turn back into a race *in a safe manner* <= I have done this before
I could probably write a whole page of these.
We should create a list of these and see where it goes.
The Driving Force GT is probably the best wheel you can get for the price, it has everything you need. The jog dial even alows you to adjust car settings on the fly in cars that alow it. This is ofcource if you set it up to, which isn't hard at all.
I've had one for a while now, and even the peddals are better than I expected, at first they looked cheap, but they are pretty solid. They match perfectly with my MS sidewinder pedals I have sitting right next to them as a foot rest and clutch.
I've had one for a while now, and even the peddals are better than I expected, at first they looked cheap, but they are pretty solid. They match perfectly with my MS sidewinder pedals I have sitting right next to them as a foot rest and clutch.
I'm pretty sure every production car has some level of anti-dive and/or anti-lift encorporated into the suspension.
Frontwheel drives tend to have anti-lift in the suspension to keep the wheels planted properly while accelerating, otherwhise the weight transfer of the car would lower traction.
Frontwheel drives tend to have anti-lift in the suspension to keep the wheels planted properly while accelerating, otherwhise the weight transfer of the car would lower traction.
By moving the ram into the other slot you just dissabled dual channel. Dual channel requires you to have one stick on each channel, ususaly the channels are offset on the motherboard so it goes like this.
A-B-A-B. That means channel A is slots 1 and 3, and channel B is slots 2 and 4.
If you want to upgrade and still have dual channel I suggest dumping BOTH of the 512 sticks and geting a pair of 1gb sticks and inserting them in slot 1 and 3. Or you could still keep the 512 sticks and put them in slots 2 and 4, and have 3gb of ram in dual channel.
If it only shows up as 512 when you have the sticks in 1 and 3, you need to clean the ram slots with a can of compressed air, and then insert the ram cards carefuly and remove them carefuly a fue times to clean the contacts.
If you ever put ram in a computer and it doesn't show up, there is something wrong with the slot or the ram. In your case it showed up in a different slot, so you probably just need to clean it, however, it might also mean that the ram you own is not dual channel compatable, in which case I would chuck it when you get the new ram and just get 2 sticks of 1gb.
A-B-A-B. That means channel A is slots 1 and 3, and channel B is slots 2 and 4.
If you want to upgrade and still have dual channel I suggest dumping BOTH of the 512 sticks and geting a pair of 1gb sticks and inserting them in slot 1 and 3. Or you could still keep the 512 sticks and put them in slots 2 and 4, and have 3gb of ram in dual channel.
If it only shows up as 512 when you have the sticks in 1 and 3, you need to clean the ram slots with a can of compressed air, and then insert the ram cards carefuly and remove them carefuly a fue times to clean the contacts.
If you ever put ram in a computer and it doesn't show up, there is something wrong with the slot or the ram. In your case it showed up in a different slot, so you probably just need to clean it, however, it might also mean that the ram you own is not dual channel compatable, in which case I would chuck it when you get the new ram and just get 2 sticks of 1gb.
It would have a very big effect on alot of the setups I see. As it is now alot of people are setting values that are too stiff (and low) for proper traction in a realistic instance because the squating has to be dealt with through crazy suspension rates and ride hight settings.
One more thing I see all to often is people lowering the car too much, even a fue of the setups that come with LFS have oddly low ride hights, sometimes at one end of the car and not the other.
The ideal setting would be to have the lower wishbone paralel to the road as this gives optimal mechanical grip, but some of them have crazy low settings that have the wishbone inclined in the direction of the wheel. This causes odd handeling characteristics in just about every lowered car I've driven, even ones with spring kits to increase the rates to compensate.
Are you saying LFS doesn't have anti-squat/dive geometry on the suspensions? I did not know this.
If so, that explains alot about why the XRG was pitching so hard when I put in the rates from the real springs and dampers on a Starion.
Massive toe is not masking a deficiency in the car, its masking a deficiency in the driver.
I can handel that car absolutely no problem at all, and I haven't even touched the toe or caster settings, I only change camber for the track and my springs and dampers.
What you need to do is find a balance in the setup between under and oversteer on turn in and mid corner and then figure out what the car wants to do on corner exit and compensate for that. You want to find a compremize between entry/mid and exit. After you do that you need to learn how to drive it like you would an early porsche 911. Sometimes you have to slide it into corners to get a fast exit, sometimes you need to powerslide out of a corner to set up for the next. The RAC requires a more direct and technical driving style than any other car in LFS from what I can tell.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6Thomd4BQg Watch this video, thats pretty much how I drive the RAC, you can see how he powerslides out on some corners while he puts it into a slide going into others. Starting at 1:50 you can actualy see where he combines both, he puts the car into a slide comming out of one, and then powerslides through the other.
I am by no means fast with it because I haven't had S2 for long, but I can still drive just about any of the cars at decent pace without much trouble.
I can handel that car absolutely no problem at all, and I haven't even touched the toe or caster settings, I only change camber for the track and my springs and dampers.
What you need to do is find a balance in the setup between under and oversteer on turn in and mid corner and then figure out what the car wants to do on corner exit and compensate for that. You want to find a compremize between entry/mid and exit. After you do that you need to learn how to drive it like you would an early porsche 911. Sometimes you have to slide it into corners to get a fast exit, sometimes you need to powerslide out of a corner to set up for the next. The RAC requires a more direct and technical driving style than any other car in LFS from what I can tell.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6Thomd4BQg Watch this video, thats pretty much how I drive the RAC, you can see how he powerslides out on some corners while he puts it into a slide going into others. Starting at 1:50 you can actualy see where he combines both, he puts the car into a slide comming out of one, and then powerslides through the other.
I am by no means fast with it because I haven't had S2 for long, but I can still drive just about any of the cars at decent pace without much trouble.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
I don't care what anyone says, macro shifting is cheating, its an exploit.
Its like when I used to play Hostile-Intent (a Half-Life mod). People would use scripts or "Macros" to do things like shoot full auto with the pistols, or have it throw a flash and then instantly return to thier rifle.
Scripting or any kind of macro system is included in alot of games, but that doesn't mean you can abuse it like that. Sure, everyone can do it, but thats like saying everyone can download hacks. It makes it unfair to people who don't want to automate it, people that want it to actualy take skill on thier part to make it happen quickly and effectively.
I look at people who use macro shifting the same way I look at the people who used to use scripts in HI, they are exploiters that can't seem to grasp the fact that its supposed to take time/skill to do these things. It makes me sad that people would cheat like that, because they don't want to do it the hard way, and learn how to do it well.
Its like when I used to play Hostile-Intent (a Half-Life mod). People would use scripts or "Macros" to do things like shoot full auto with the pistols, or have it throw a flash and then instantly return to thier rifle.
Scripting or any kind of macro system is included in alot of games, but that doesn't mean you can abuse it like that. Sure, everyone can do it, but thats like saying everyone can download hacks. It makes it unfair to people who don't want to automate it, people that want it to actualy take skill on thier part to make it happen quickly and effectively.
I look at people who use macro shifting the same way I look at the people who used to use scripts in HI, they are exploiters that can't seem to grasp the fact that its supposed to take time/skill to do these things. It makes me sad that people would cheat like that, because they don't want to do it the hard way, and learn how to do it well.
There is only one game I've ever played that simulated a real auto.
SODA Off-Road Racing.
If you let go of the brakes, it would roll. I belive it even had kickdown, but I don't remember because I used to always just mash the pedal down.
SODA Off-Road Racing.
If you let go of the brakes, it would roll. I belive it even had kickdown, but I don't remember because I used to always just mash the pedal down.
If LFS was gone, I'd be playing alot more SMOD:Tactical and Insurgency:MIC
Smod:Tactical is one of the hardest single player FPS games ever created. It requires alot of time to come up with a strategy to survive just ONE firefight. The game has you thinking constantly. One bullet can kill you, and your enemys are as skilled as US navy seals. The only benefit for you is that the enemy is still human, and one bullet to the chest ususaly puts them down as well as it would you.
Insurgency is similar but multi-player, so you get crazy firefights with real people, and unlike counter-strike it takes realistic strategy to win. There's no run and gun, no bunny hopping and no random headshots because the computer decided the bullet just happend to go that way. It takes actualy putting the sights on the enemy to hit them instead of dumb luck with a firing cone.
Both of those are source modifications, I don't play "Games" that much anymore because FPS developers seem to have lost the spark they had 10 years ago. There are only a fue modern FPS games I like. Other than that I rely on Mods for interesting and unique gameplay.
Smod:Tactical is one of the hardest single player FPS games ever created. It requires alot of time to come up with a strategy to survive just ONE firefight. The game has you thinking constantly. One bullet can kill you, and your enemys are as skilled as US navy seals. The only benefit for you is that the enemy is still human, and one bullet to the chest ususaly puts them down as well as it would you.
Insurgency is similar but multi-player, so you get crazy firefights with real people, and unlike counter-strike it takes realistic strategy to win. There's no run and gun, no bunny hopping and no random headshots because the computer decided the bullet just happend to go that way. It takes actualy putting the sights on the enemy to hit them instead of dumb luck with a firing cone.
Both of those are source modifications, I don't play "Games" that much anymore because FPS developers seem to have lost the spark they had 10 years ago. There are only a fue modern FPS games I like. Other than that I rely on Mods for interesting and unique gameplay.
It's a common problem with FFB wheels, the calibration needs to be done after the wheel is plugged in sometimes.
What you do is this.
Unplug the power supply from the wheel, mount the wheel on your desk/table, plug the USB in without the power plugged in. Make sure the wheel is at perfect center, then after windows/console has detected it plug in the power supply. The wheel should self calibrate as soon as the power is plugged in.
If this doesn't work, then something is wrong with the wheel internaly, and it could be FUBAR.
What you do is this.
Unplug the power supply from the wheel, mount the wheel on your desk/table, plug the USB in without the power plugged in. Make sure the wheel is at perfect center, then after windows/console has detected it plug in the power supply. The wheel should self calibrate as soon as the power is plugged in.
If this doesn't work, then something is wrong with the wheel internaly, and it could be FUBAR.
If someone put one of those in my living room I'd start by asking them if they where crazy, then I'd go on to thanking them a million times, then I'd shove them out the door
and race untill my arms fell off 
If I remember correctly that was the first time they actualy road raced in the rain? Or am I thinking of an earlier race?
I remember a game I had called Andretti racing, the best part of it had to be nascar road racing on the Toronto track, the CNE had a crazy 90º corner that they seem to have changed in the years since the game was made. You litteraly had to come to almost a complete stop to make the corner.
Everytime I see someone mention GPL I want to play it more and more, I never got the chance to, and I feel I've missed out on an amazing experiance.
I remember a game I had called Andretti racing, the best part of it had to be nascar road racing on the Toronto track, the CNE had a crazy 90º corner that they seem to have changed in the years since the game was made. You litteraly had to come to almost a complete stop to make the corner.
Everytime I see someone mention GPL I want to play it more and more, I never got the chance to, and I feel I've missed out on an amazing experiance.
I don't have all that much trouble driving the RAC, it just takes getting used to. I just hopped behind the wheel and started driving and was thinking "This car is supposed to be hard to drive?"
My impression of this car is that it handels ALOT like an early Porsche 911, the early 911s had the engine slightly farther back and this made for a very tricky car much like the RAC.
The way to drive the RAC is to treat the rear of the car as a pendulum, you can't let it build up too much momentum in one direction otherwhise it will swing out and then back again causing it to break loose.
I can't say I'm fast, but I don't have nearly as much trouble with it as some people seem to.
My impression of this car is that it handels ALOT like an early Porsche 911, the early 911s had the engine slightly farther back and this made for a very tricky car much like the RAC.
The way to drive the RAC is to treat the rear of the car as a pendulum, you can't let it build up too much momentum in one direction otherwhise it will swing out and then back again causing it to break loose.
I can't say I'm fast, but I don't have nearly as much trouble with it as some people seem to.
USB video outputs are ususaly horribly slow, you are better off using a TH2G or finding some other way to link the monitors.
I have seen many multi monitor solutions running on USB 2.0, and they always have horrible frame rate, and theres always a delay.
I have seen many multi monitor solutions running on USB 2.0, and they always have horrible frame rate, and theres always a delay.
If you downloaded them in a tyre tread pack that has all the different tyre types you probably got them from LFS database.
That where I got my highres tyre treads and they look exactly the same.
You can't blow the engine, but you can kill the starter as you have said.
As far as the noise you heard, the screaming is the starter gear slipping because it can't engage the flywheel properly with the car in gear. Unless the flywheel can turn the starter pinion wont always line up because it actualy rotates into position on just about every starter I've seen. Some starters even have an integrated solenoid in the back of the starter so that if the gear doesn't mesh, the starter won't turn.
However, in the event that it does mesh, it will ususaly not do anything but cause induction heating inside the starter coils. Sometimes the starter can be strong enough to move the vehicle, but that isn't a good idea at all, because the starter will be overloaded and probably burn out before you get anywhere.
And for turning the starter with the engine running, the starter tries to engage, but the engine is spinning too fast and it just slips. If the starter does engage it will be run at about three to four times the speed it was designed for and probably be K.I.A.
I was simply stating that without going to semi-slicks, that was a bit narrow for 600whp. With semi-slicks that should do fine, but wider is always going to be better to a certain point.
Ajp is right about the 20s, 20in wheels are a bit over sized. The wheels and tires I would suggest for a road and track car with that kind of power would be 275/35ZR18 fronts if you want to keep the current width and 325/30ZR18 for the rear.
Thats for high performance road tires though, as stated semi-slicks will work nicely on your existing setup. Though even the semi-slicks will benefit from the extra surface area and you will benifit from the lowerd mass all round.
Ajp is right about the 20s, 20in wheels are a bit over sized. The wheels and tires I would suggest for a road and track car with that kind of power would be 275/35ZR18 fronts if you want to keep the current width and 325/30ZR18 for the rear.
Thats for high performance road tires though, as stated semi-slicks will work nicely on your existing setup. Though even the semi-slicks will benefit from the extra surface area and you will benifit from the lowerd mass all round.
ouch, that must have realy sucked.
A couple hundred bucks out the window, and I bet your GF woulden't let it go for a while.
For the power you are putting down, what ajp71 said is pretty much it.
semi slicks are the way to go, at least if you are confined to 275 wide tires anyway.
It's definately not your suspension, 275 tires are a bit narrow for 600whp. for that kind of power 325/30ZR20s are probably the minimum you should have if you expect to be able to put that power down at reasoable timing comming out of a turn. That size would just about match your current fronts too.
Unless you plan on changing the rear so you can fit wider tires, you are going to always be limmited on street tires so semi-slicks are the way to go.
semi slicks are the way to go, at least if you are confined to 275 wide tires anyway.
It's definately not your suspension, 275 tires are a bit narrow for 600whp. for that kind of power 325/30ZR20s are probably the minimum you should have if you expect to be able to put that power down at reasoable timing comming out of a turn. That size would just about match your current fronts too.
Unless you plan on changing the rear so you can fit wider tires, you are going to always be limmited on street tires so semi-slicks are the way to go.
Wow, that must have sucked real hard, did it just shift lock or did it actualy do damage to the car?
thats realy inventive, now you can use the buttons to make a shifter too
LOL, you want over 9000?
I had an "ITS OVER NINE THOUSAND!" moment when I went and turned in all the pennies I've been saving for the past eight years. The coin counter machine nearly broke. 9164 cents, and all of it paid for my new airsoft rifle.
Its actualy realy simple why it happens, you are actualy the one being charged, either you are moving around in the seat, or your clothes are rubbing creating a static charge. When you touch the door you ground out and then ZAP, you get a shock.
My old Ford E-150 used to do that all the time, I'd go to get out and I'd touch the door handel on the inside and get a shock. Sometimes my 6.5L turbo diesel does it too.
Generaly this will happen more often in lower humidity conditions because there is less moister to disipate the charge to the nearest ground.
My old Ford E-150 used to do that all the time, I'd go to get out and I'd touch the door handel on the inside and get a shock. Sometimes my 6.5L turbo diesel does it too.
Generaly this will happen more often in lower humidity conditions because there is less moister to disipate the charge to the nearest ground.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG