You should be having absolutely no problems with that rig at all, prebuilt or not those are some decent specs for LFS.
I'd say you need to format your hardrive, or at least figure out what's using up resources. Even my computer which has a single threaded P4 3.2ghz and an AGP HD3850 doesn't run that slow.
Sounds like you've got alot of background processes killing CPU time.
I'd say you need to format your hardrive, or at least figure out what's using up resources. Even my computer which has a single threaded P4 3.2ghz and an AGP HD3850 doesn't run that slow.
Sounds like you've got alot of background processes killing CPU time.
I hope you used a non-corrosive type grease, because anything with a corrosive in it is going to eat the gears and turn them to mush.
I've seen people do this to other things before, and then one day the gears strip out, because they used automotive grade bearing grease.
Otherwhise, its a neat idea, but makes me wonder why they didn't put alot of grease in there to begin with. It might not be just because they where cheap with it.
I've seen people do this to other things before, and then one day the gears strip out, because they used automotive grade bearing grease.
Otherwhise, its a neat idea, but makes me wonder why they didn't put alot of grease in there to begin with. It might not be just because they where cheap with it.
Maybe with some custom software writen to make it work, but as it is it's designed to count words per minute.
It's a typing aid, not meant for game use. It looks like a speedometer, but it's not.
It's a typing aid, not meant for game use. It looks like a speedometer, but it's not.
Never underestimate the need for a good (and expensive) case, I've gone through several cases in the past year and the only one that could keep my system cool was the antec 300 I bought for around $70 canadian localy. Since the 300 is basicaly a lower-end 900 I would say keep it. The air flow is much better than any case you would get for cheap.
Just switching from a cheap Xblade case to the Antec 300 got me a CPU temp drop of 15ºc And under load it never goes above 45ºc now, when it used to go above 60º before.
Basicaly what I'm saying is, use the 900 if you buy the new setup, it'll be much better for air cooling untill you get the water cooled setup in.
Too many times I see people buying cheap cases, and it can litteraly kill a good setup.
Just switching from a cheap Xblade case to the Antec 300 got me a CPU temp drop of 15ºc And under load it never goes above 45ºc now, when it used to go above 60º before.
Basicaly what I'm saying is, use the 900 if you buy the new setup, it'll be much better for air cooling untill you get the water cooled setup in.
Too many times I see people buying cheap cases, and it can litteraly kill a good setup.
I was looking at this shifter for along time, I still haven't grabbed one.
I think the plates in the video are from the first version of the shifter, when they where still making the wheels. I won't say for certain, but thats what I think.
I can imagine those plates that clip on being a problem, after they wear a bit they might pop off during racing, so a change to fixed, screw on plates would be logical anyway.
I think the plates in the video are from the first version of the shifter, when they where still making the wheels. I won't say for certain, but thats what I think.
I can imagine those plates that clip on being a problem, after they wear a bit they might pop off during racing, so a change to fixed, screw on plates would be logical anyway.
The best mouse I ever had was the microsoft intellimouse 1.1
I hate mice with both extra buttons on one side and the intellimouse had one on each side, it was perfect. And if you knew how to set it up it had very high accuracy.
I never played LFS with that mouse, but alot of FPS games where much better with it, using the side buttons for things like voice and fire mode switches where much better than keyboard buttons.
I hate mice with both extra buttons on one side and the intellimouse had one on each side, it was perfect. And if you knew how to set it up it had very high accuracy.
I never played LFS with that mouse, but alot of FPS games where much better with it, using the side buttons for things like voice and fire mode switches where much better than keyboard buttons.
I coulden't tell you exactly since I've never worked in a factory or been told, but it's probably no more than a few minutes. Just long enough for the computer to do a self check and the techs to check/listen for odd vibrations or anything else that would indicate a defect.
Some of those defects don't always get found, but thats a whole new topic right there.
Some of those defects don't always get found, but thats a whole new topic right there.
Before I started working as a mechanic I always though that the engine would be broken in at the factory, but they arn't unless you order that specificaly, and I'm not sure many auto makers still offer that option.
They only run them long enough at the factory to make sure the computer is working and all the parts are doing thier job properly.
@george_tsiros
As long as you break it in properly you shoulden't have to worry about anything other than the oil change after the first few days, maybe a week, and another at 500 miles. It shoulden't be a problem to follow the steps either.
To think that any damage could come from them running it at the factory or while getting it to you is just over the top, my friends bike came with 12km on it, he ran the proper break in and all was good. It'll be no different for a car.
One thing I forgot to mention is the chassis inspection, get that done anywhere around 500-1000 miles, just to make sure everything stayed tight and wore in right, the engine isn't the only thing that needs to be broken in.
They only run them long enough at the factory to make sure the computer is working and all the parts are doing thier job properly.
@george_tsiros
As long as you break it in properly you shoulden't have to worry about anything other than the oil change after the first few days, maybe a week, and another at 500 miles. It shoulden't be a problem to follow the steps either.
To think that any damage could come from them running it at the factory or while getting it to you is just over the top, my friends bike came with 12km on it, he ran the proper break in and all was good. It'll be no different for a car.
One thing I forgot to mention is the chassis inspection, get that done anywhere around 500-1000 miles, just to make sure everything stayed tight and wore in right, the engine isn't the only thing that needs to be broken in.
I read the post, but only looked at the first link, because they are all about break in. It was more directed at Tristancliffe realy.
That one is probably the best one actualy, it describes not only how, but why. Thats something all car owners should know.
The fact you found it before I mentioned anything is nice, thats the one you should read and follow.
That one is probably the best one actualy, it describes not only how, but why. Thats something all car owners should know.
The fact you found it before I mentioned anything is nice, thats the one you should read and follow.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
I didn't mean totaly baby it, maybe I should clarify that you should run it well the whole time, but not rev it high untill the first few trips have been completed. By high I mean 6-7k, it should be kept around 4k, with short burst into the higher RPMs, but not long runs.
The biggest problem with "driving it normal" for the first little bit is that it will not load it enough or load it too much. If you over heat the rings it will glaze, if you under load them, it will glaze later. Thats the main cause of blow by and performance issues. You have to be in the middle ground.
The whole reason I posted that method is because it's the right way, not the common knowlege way, which has been the cause of ALOT of power problems in engines I've worked on.
I broke in my bike the way I posted, and it runs perfectly fine, infact, it runs better than other bikes that age that where rebuilt and then broken in the "safe" way. I've even had the head off of it since then, and there's no sign of glazing, it actualy looks realy good.
Edit: Actualy, this is the first time this has happened. But I actualy found a decent article on the internet that describes it, it even explains why improper break in causes problems. It also describes the proper procedure better than I did, and I did infact make an error when doing so.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
And yes I know it's for motorcycles, but the procedure is exactly the same for any four cycle engine, and has no reason not to be.
The biggest problem with "driving it normal" for the first little bit is that it will not load it enough or load it too much. If you over heat the rings it will glaze, if you under load them, it will glaze later. Thats the main cause of blow by and performance issues. You have to be in the middle ground.
The whole reason I posted that method is because it's the right way, not the common knowlege way, which has been the cause of ALOT of power problems in engines I've worked on.
I broke in my bike the way I posted, and it runs perfectly fine, infact, it runs better than other bikes that age that where rebuilt and then broken in the "safe" way. I've even had the head off of it since then, and there's no sign of glazing, it actualy looks realy good.
Edit: Actualy, this is the first time this has happened. But I actualy found a decent article on the internet that describes it, it even explains why improper break in causes problems. It also describes the proper procedure better than I did, and I did infact make an error when doing so.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
And yes I know it's for motorcycles, but the procedure is exactly the same for any four cycle engine, and has no reason not to be.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
Unfortunately I don't have the money to own a car at the moment, let alone race one. I DID have a 1996 ford escort, but it wasn't a likely candidate for racing being automatic, and it was alot more fun to do time trials on my vintage honda dirt bike at the time.
I love my 81' Honda XL125s, it needs alot of work, but for being a bike thats known to be underpowered it somehow still destroys my friends modern 125.
The closest I've ever gotten to racing was those time trials, basicaly a rally race, 6km of open trails including solid stone paths through a decomissioned quary.
I've been lucky to have only fallen once, at low speed. Hit tractor ruts at night doing 20km/h. (not racing, I'm not crazy enough to over drive the headlamp) Other than that the only close call I've had was hitting a very large rock accelerating after a turn, I was doing about 40km/h and the front wheel glanced off it. The front of the bike lifted and the handel bars twisted to the left, I didn't even think about correcting it, it just happened and I never even let off the throttle.
My bike only does about 120km/h gear limited, but thats plenty of speed for the trails, most times I don't even make it to 5th, and there are very few areas that stretch me to 6th.
Don't ask me for exact times though, I've never actualy recorded it, just done it for fun. When I get my racing buggy built (if I do) I'll probably see about entering rally with that.
I love my 81' Honda XL125s, it needs alot of work, but for being a bike thats known to be underpowered it somehow still destroys my friends modern 125.
The closest I've ever gotten to racing was those time trials, basicaly a rally race, 6km of open trails including solid stone paths through a decomissioned quary.
I've been lucky to have only fallen once, at low speed. Hit tractor ruts at night doing 20km/h. (not racing, I'm not crazy enough to over drive the headlamp) Other than that the only close call I've had was hitting a very large rock accelerating after a turn, I was doing about 40km/h and the front wheel glanced off it. The front of the bike lifted and the handel bars twisted to the left, I didn't even think about correcting it, it just happened and I never even let off the throttle.
My bike only does about 120km/h gear limited, but thats plenty of speed for the trails, most times I don't even make it to 5th, and there are very few areas that stretch me to 6th.
Don't ask me for exact times though, I've never actualy recorded it, just done it for fun. When I get my racing buggy built (if I do) I'll probably see about entering rally with that.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
If you are realy worried about breaking in the engine it's fairly simple, and the same for just about any motor.
Some of it was already done at the factory but run it all the way through the steps if you are realy worried.
First start the engine and let it come to idle temperature, turn it off again and then let it cool.
Once it's completely cooled off start it again and go for a short drive, 15-20 minutes and keep it out of higher gears. Light loads and low engine speeds. After that let it completely cool again.
Then start working up the RPM in each drive after, maybe 1000RPM at a time for each short drive with some bursts of acceleration, but not too much, possibly to work and then back after. This should only be a few days. Don't be afraid to do a few hard bursts of throttle after the fourth or so drive, but not before.
After that change the oil and filter, drive it stable for 500 miles or so and then you can start to realy open it up, by then it needs another oil change though. That'll be two, for a proper break in it's best to change the oil twice, and if you plan on going synthetic do it on the second one, doing it on the first could actualy cause glazing and impact performance.
The reason for the double oil change is because the largest particles will wear off in the initial break in, in those first three or four runs. Then after that you want to run it for the five hundred miles and change it again to eliminate the last of the particles.
Some of it was already done at the factory but run it all the way through the steps if you are realy worried.
First start the engine and let it come to idle temperature, turn it off again and then let it cool.
Once it's completely cooled off start it again and go for a short drive, 15-20 minutes and keep it out of higher gears. Light loads and low engine speeds. After that let it completely cool again.
Then start working up the RPM in each drive after, maybe 1000RPM at a time for each short drive with some bursts of acceleration, but not too much, possibly to work and then back after. This should only be a few days. Don't be afraid to do a few hard bursts of throttle after the fourth or so drive, but not before.
After that change the oil and filter, drive it stable for 500 miles or so and then you can start to realy open it up, by then it needs another oil change though. That'll be two, for a proper break in it's best to change the oil twice, and if you plan on going synthetic do it on the second one, doing it on the first could actualy cause glazing and impact performance.
The reason for the double oil change is because the largest particles will wear off in the initial break in, in those first three or four runs. Then after that you want to run it for the five hundred miles and change it again to eliminate the last of the particles.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
That ticking sound isn't to indicate that they are on, thats the sound of the flasher unit turning on and off.
Most cars it will be audible in the passenger cabin because the flasher box, which isn't a standard relay and may be a round unit in some cars, is in the interior fuse panel.
The flasher unit is also based on the resistance in the turn signal system, so if a bulb goes out it will flash faster, which is a perfect indication that a bulb is out.
If a GTR has turn signals or even just 4-ways it's garanteed it will have a flasher unit, and thus it will have the ticking sound. The unit is so small it's not even a consideration for weight savings either.
Most cars it will be audible in the passenger cabin because the flasher box, which isn't a standard relay and may be a round unit in some cars, is in the interior fuse panel.
The flasher unit is also based on the resistance in the turn signal system, so if a bulb goes out it will flash faster, which is a perfect indication that a bulb is out.
If a GTR has turn signals or even just 4-ways it's garanteed it will have a flasher unit, and thus it will have the ticking sound. The unit is so small it's not even a consideration for weight savings either.
This is exactly why I HATE newer music, I can't stand what they are doing to it. I actualy noticed it a long time ago, I can hear the distortion and I have to play with my EQ alot to get some songs to even sound bearable, they still arn't right.
Thats why I prefer all my old rock, my original Black Album sounds better than my friends re-print, which made me instantly turn it off and go home to get mine.
Thats why I prefer all my old rock, my original Black Album sounds better than my friends re-print, which made me instantly turn it off and go home to get mine.
If you left foot brake comming into a corner in a front wheel drive it'll oversteer pretty easy. After that it's just using the brake and gas to balance the car and maintain speed. you can even gear down and use engine braking to add angle to the car.
I don't realy think it's drifting myself, more like oversteer with style and intent. You can't drive down a straight and get sideways on power like a rear wheel drive. You have to come into the corner differently.
I don't realy think it's drifting myself, more like oversteer with style and intent. You can't drive down a straight and get sideways on power like a rear wheel drive. You have to come into the corner differently.
I was just waiting for something like this, I knew it would happen eventualy, now I just have to start saving.
I won't be running more than three monitors though, since thats all I need, but with 24 you could get a pretty cool setup going. Having a whole wall as just monitor would be awsome, sure it's more expensive than a projector at first, but most people don't take into account that monitors last longer than a projector bulb, and those are very expensive.
I won't be running more than three monitors though, since thats all I need, but with 24 you could get a pretty cool setup going. Having a whole wall as just monitor would be awsome, sure it's more expensive than a projector at first, but most people don't take into account that monitors last longer than a projector bulb, and those are very expensive.
ok, so basicaly, you are all saying exactly what I said. but adding a whole load of other information to it.
As far as the one post goes about the engine slowing down the same regardless of throttle positon when the ignition is off, I'd like to say thats probably a rare case since EVERY vehicle I have ever driven has only had full engine braking with the throttle closed.
I rode my motor bike down the road recently and switched the engine off while the throttle was open, it didn't start to engine brake untill I closed it, so I doubt it's any different on any other four cycle engine. I bet the engine braking is less on most cars even, since the bike litteraly throws you onto the seat if you arn't careful.
As far as I know diesel cars run some form of engine brake, because alot of people who drive manuals use engine braking, they have to have some form on diesel cars. This is because if someone is expecting it and it doesn't happen it would cause an accident. It'd be pretty bad on hills too, since a diesel will accelerate on a down hill even with the throttle off unless they have an EB equiped.
I know the newer larger ford F-series have them, they use the VGT to restrict exhaust. so they essentialy have an exhaust brake.
Get in any larger diesel vehicle and I garantee they will either have a switch on the dash labeled "Jake Brake" or "Engine Brake", or they won't have alot of engine braking at all when you let off.
The air in the crank case does cause a small amount of resistance, but far smaller than you'd think, gaining 30+hp from a vacuumed crank is simply because you are reducing the total air friction on the moving parts, but those parts usualy have enough mass and thus inertia to overcome the air risistance comming off the throttle.
One more thing I forgot to mention, on a vacuumed crank engine braking will naturaly be reduced because the air pressure under the pistons will be closer to the air pressure above, this means the actual resisting force will be reduced. That could lead someone to think it's the air movement in the crank that causes braking when it isn't, it's the vacuum above.
And as far as F1 not allowing engine braking reduction, well good. I personaly think the more crap they add the less the sport.
F1s experiance alot of engine braking for exactly the reason Bob mentioned, massive bore, short stroke. There is a huge surface area on both the top and bottom of the pistons, so the air has alot of surface area to act on.
I would love to see a modern F1 driver drive a vintage 60's F1, they'd have a hell of a time I'm sure. People seem to think just because the cars got faster it automaticaly means they got harder to drive. I don't realy think thats the case.
I'll admit, it takes a damn good driver to handel an F1, only a small number of people can, but the modern ones do make that number slightly larger.
As far as the one post goes about the engine slowing down the same regardless of throttle positon when the ignition is off, I'd like to say thats probably a rare case since EVERY vehicle I have ever driven has only had full engine braking with the throttle closed.
I rode my motor bike down the road recently and switched the engine off while the throttle was open, it didn't start to engine brake untill I closed it, so I doubt it's any different on any other four cycle engine. I bet the engine braking is less on most cars even, since the bike litteraly throws you onto the seat if you arn't careful.
As far as I know diesel cars run some form of engine brake, because alot of people who drive manuals use engine braking, they have to have some form on diesel cars. This is because if someone is expecting it and it doesn't happen it would cause an accident. It'd be pretty bad on hills too, since a diesel will accelerate on a down hill even with the throttle off unless they have an EB equiped.
I know the newer larger ford F-series have them, they use the VGT to restrict exhaust. so they essentialy have an exhaust brake.
Get in any larger diesel vehicle and I garantee they will either have a switch on the dash labeled "Jake Brake" or "Engine Brake", or they won't have alot of engine braking at all when you let off.
The air in the crank case does cause a small amount of resistance, but far smaller than you'd think, gaining 30+hp from a vacuumed crank is simply because you are reducing the total air friction on the moving parts, but those parts usualy have enough mass and thus inertia to overcome the air risistance comming off the throttle.
One more thing I forgot to mention, on a vacuumed crank engine braking will naturaly be reduced because the air pressure under the pistons will be closer to the air pressure above, this means the actual resisting force will be reduced. That could lead someone to think it's the air movement in the crank that causes braking when it isn't, it's the vacuum above.
And as far as F1 not allowing engine braking reduction, well good. I personaly think the more crap they add the less the sport.
F1s experiance alot of engine braking for exactly the reason Bob mentioned, massive bore, short stroke. There is a huge surface area on both the top and bottom of the pistons, so the air has alot of surface area to act on.
I would love to see a modern F1 driver drive a vintage 60's F1, they'd have a hell of a time I'm sure. People seem to think just because the cars got faster it automaticaly means they got harder to drive. I don't realy think thats the case.
I'll admit, it takes a damn good driver to handel an F1, only a small number of people can, but the modern ones do make that number slightly larger.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
"- intentionally causing any tire to lose traction while turning (skids or drifting)"
I'm glad they said while turning at the end, because that means spinning a wheel while driving away on a green light is something I've seen people do alot, and it's not always intentional, it'd be very hard to tell if it was too.
Just some wheel chirp on take off is usualy not even noticed by police around Toronto, peeling out is different.
I've also seen mention of being allowed to do a handbrake turn somewhere, it was actualy shown on Canada's worst driver, but they never said if it was legal or not, but I'm pretty sure it was mentioned somewhere else.
I'm glad they said while turning at the end, because that means spinning a wheel while driving away on a green light is something I've seen people do alot, and it's not always intentional, it'd be very hard to tell if it was too.
Just some wheel chirp on take off is usualy not even noticed by police around Toronto, peeling out is different.
I've also seen mention of being allowed to do a handbrake turn somewhere, it was actualy shown on Canada's worst driver, but they never said if it was legal or not, but I'm pretty sure it was mentioned somewhere else.
95% to the front? that's 15% more than stock for most cars. standard brake balance for a road car is usualy 80% forward.
Also, I did all my brake stands in the car park, and they both still slid across. I burned the rear tyres completely, they blew out, but the fronts always stay locked and slide.
what I'm saying is, on stock settings for the car, the front tyres shoulden't slide while locked like that.
I wish I had a replay, but I can't set up my wheel right now.
Edit: just re-read, I don't think brake balance has anything to do with it at all, if you coulden't do it at 95% and I can't at 80% then even if I set it to 100% forward it woulden't make a difference. It's not the brakes, it's the tyres.
Also, I did all my brake stands in the car park, and they both still slid across. I burned the rear tyres completely, they blew out, but the fronts always stay locked and slide.
what I'm saying is, on stock settings for the car, the front tyres shoulden't slide while locked like that.
I wish I had a replay, but I can't set up my wheel right now.
Edit: just re-read, I don't think brake balance has anything to do with it at all, if you coulden't do it at 95% and I can't at 80% then even if I set it to 100% forward it woulden't make a difference. It's not the brakes, it's the tyres.
Having had the exact same card with the same problem I can tell you it's perfectly safe to manualy install it.
What you want to do is start the installer so it copies all of the files to the ATI support folders (it will tell you where it put them)
Then go into the display properties panel, in winXP its the one you get by right clicking on desktop and clicking properties.
Click the settings tab, then the advanced button on the lower right.
In the panel that pops up go to adapter and click the properties button.
Click the driver tab and press the update driver button.
After that it's running through the wizard and directing it to the folder where the drivers where loaded too by the extractor that ATI uses.
If this still doesn't work, if it doesn't see your card, then you have to download the AGP hotfix drivers from your card's manufacturers site. Sapphire has their own drives for the HD2600 and I think PowerColour and the other ones have them too. You realy need the AGP hotfix drivers, they are meant for that card.
What you want to do is start the installer so it copies all of the files to the ATI support folders (it will tell you where it put them)
Then go into the display properties panel, in winXP its the one you get by right clicking on desktop and clicking properties.
Click the settings tab, then the advanced button on the lower right.
In the panel that pops up go to adapter and click the properties button.
Click the driver tab and press the update driver button.
After that it's running through the wizard and directing it to the folder where the drivers where loaded too by the extractor that ATI uses.
If this still doesn't work, if it doesn't see your card, then you have to download the AGP hotfix drivers from your card's manufacturers site. Sapphire has their own drives for the HD2600 and I think PowerColour and the other ones have them too. You realy need the AGP hotfix drivers, they are meant for that card.
I've tried it actualy, and it didn't seem to make much difference.
If it's only me that has this problem I'll be going for a loop
Thats realy strange, because my front wheels arn't turning, they are locked like a proper brake stand, and the rears are spinning properly, but the car just seems to slide forward for no reason, like I said a few posts back, I've slid half way across the car park doing it.
I'm not sure what I could change in the setup to make it work, since it seems to have something to do with front tyre grip.
I would make a demo of it, to show what I mean, but I can't at the moment because my current setup doesn't leave any room on my desk for my wheel.
I've never driven rally, but I have driven enough in several vehicles that I realy have a feel for what a car should and shoulden't do.
It's always bothered me that I can't do a brake stand, because that is a tell tale sign something is wrong with the tyre physics, the car shoulden't push the (locked) front wheels while the rear ones are spinning. a locked wheel that is standing should have more grip than a spinning one.
That and left foot braking in a FWD not leading to oversteer, that actualy caused me to crash in LFS once, I expected it to happen and it didn't, not even a little sound of scrubbing tyres, the car just understeered like a FWD on throttle (with no scrubbing sound oddly enough). In a real car you can litteraly slide like you would using the hand brake, it just slides the rear right out. It works sometimes in LFS, but only with a quick jab of the brake pedal, and even then it's been hit and miss for me, and usualy drops the revs and speed by alot more than I'd expect.
Edit: After reading into LFS's current tyre model I found that there is a problem with low speed grip, and thats probably what is happening with the brake stands. I hope that is fixed with the new tyre model, and with the way it's been described it probably has.
It's always bothered me that I can't do a brake stand, because that is a tell tale sign something is wrong with the tyre physics, the car shoulden't push the (locked) front wheels while the rear ones are spinning. a locked wheel that is standing should have more grip than a spinning one.
That and left foot braking in a FWD not leading to oversteer, that actualy caused me to crash in LFS once, I expected it to happen and it didn't, not even a little sound of scrubbing tyres, the car just understeered like a FWD on throttle (with no scrubbing sound oddly enough). In a real car you can litteraly slide like you would using the hand brake, it just slides the rear right out. It works sometimes in LFS, but only with a quick jab of the brake pedal, and even then it's been hit and miss for me, and usualy drops the revs and speed by alot more than I'd expect.
Edit: After reading into LFS's current tyre model I found that there is a problem with low speed grip, and thats probably what is happening with the brake stands. I hope that is fixed with the new tyre model, and with the way it's been described it probably has.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
This is realy good news, I can see alot of things changing just with this one re-write.
Maybe my lap times won't looks so bad when compared to others now, I drive like I do in real life, so I never push hard enough for LFS's current tyre model. When the tyre grip drops I'll still be driving the same pace I bet, but it'll be realy close to the limmits of the tyres then.
One thing I realy hope changes is how the FWD cars react to left foot braking, right now they don't oversteer enough, it's like driving a car with only 50hp. I think that has to do with the tyres gripping too much in the rear, instead of slidding free they just drag the speed down.
As for left foot braking in RWD cars, it does what it should, but I think it does it too well, and again I think thats the tyres.
It's the same as doing a brake stand, the car shoulden't move forward but the rear seems to still push enough to slide the front tyres. I've burned up a set of tires doing a brake stand in the car park, and I ended up halfway across it, when I shoulden't have been moving at all.
Maybe my lap times won't looks so bad when compared to others now, I drive like I do in real life, so I never push hard enough for LFS's current tyre model. When the tyre grip drops I'll still be driving the same pace I bet, but it'll be realy close to the limmits of the tyres then.
One thing I realy hope changes is how the FWD cars react to left foot braking, right now they don't oversteer enough, it's like driving a car with only 50hp. I think that has to do with the tyres gripping too much in the rear, instead of slidding free they just drag the speed down.
As for left foot braking in RWD cars, it does what it should, but I think it does it too well, and again I think thats the tyres.
It's the same as doing a brake stand, the car shoulden't move forward but the rear seems to still push enough to slide the front tyres. I've burned up a set of tires doing a brake stand in the car park, and I ended up halfway across it, when I shoulden't have been moving at all.
The shielding should be grounded on both ends to the ground wire, all connections should idealy be soldered.
You could just ground to one end with the shielding if you plan on using push-on spade connectors for the pot ends of the wires, if you do that you will want the shielding to be cut so it cannot short to any leads, it needs to be back a bit from the wires it covers.
If you use the wire you have posted the link to you are going to need to ground all of the shields. The best way to do that would be to ground them to the board, through the ground wire of the pot they are connecting.
Also, those pin connectors you linked are going to have to be soldered, there's no other way to connect the wires to them. Just be realy careful and use a heat sink, you realy don't want to melt the plastic.
You could just ground to one end with the shielding if you plan on using push-on spade connectors for the pot ends of the wires, if you do that you will want the shielding to be cut so it cannot short to any leads, it needs to be back a bit from the wires it covers.
If you use the wire you have posted the link to you are going to need to ground all of the shields. The best way to do that would be to ground them to the board, through the ground wire of the pot they are connecting.
Also, those pin connectors you linked are going to have to be soldered, there's no other way to connect the wires to them. Just be realy careful and use a heat sink, you realy don't want to melt the plastic.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
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