Quote from spankmeyer :

Yeeeeah except not. The guns fire lasers as HL2 engine is a piece-of-shit basic code worth of only gorillas throwing bananas so you can forget ballistics, you can kill a man by shooting him in the finger and the netcode is horrible.

Other than that it's fine. Except once again a good adversial multiplayer is ruined by spawning. Are players nowadays such pussies that they can't handle games like Rogue Spear? That game was/is hardcore! When you die, you not only have to wait for the entire round to finish and then reload the whole level. Oh and it had P2P netcode. Effin' hardcore to the max!

LOL, that was a load of crap.
Basic code? thats a joke.

You can, and people have added balistics, shooting a person in the finger doesn't kill him since it counts as a hand shot. And the hit system in some source mods actualy has individual hit boxes for every bone, includeing fingers.

You seem to not realize, that if you have round based gameplay like that, it encourages people to play like its CS. Thats not the point of insurgency, and they have done a very good job of preventing that.
I've even seen CS tactics in Gears of war on the 360, it's rediculous what people will do, just because of round based game play.

I've played Rogue spear, I agree it's hard core, but it has to be balanced between hardcore realism and fun, thats the only way to get players interested these days.

If you guys like ArmA, you should try Insurgency: modern infantry combat. It's still in beta, so it's a bit buggy, but if you own Half-life 2, it's free. Its one of the most realistic combat games I've ever played, one bullet and BAM, your dead. But sometimes you get lucky.

Here's the web site if anyone is interested.
http://www.insmod.net/

If you have HL2 it's definatley a mod worth looking at. When it comes out of beta, its going to be one of the greatest realism shooters.

I think a boost of some sort would be the only thing that I can do to get a notable performance increase. As far as I know, the engine makes something like 7HP with the stock tuning. Right now, it probably makes about 5-ish, because it has some gasket leaks, the timeing isn't set properly, and the carb needs to be rebuilt. The timing seems to be off just a little bit, because the bike hesitates if you snap the throttle. I fixed a car with the same problem, and it was timing, so I'm just guessing there.

When it's been rebuilt, the bike should run at factory power, with all of the factory settings. But I'm realy actualy considering a blower or something, just to tinker around with it to see what happens.

I got the bike for free, so I'm willing to pay as much as it would cost for the bike used for repairs. I have had the bike looked at, and as it stands it would sell for $200, so I'm going to put $200 into repairs.
I'm actualy not alowed to sell it, and I wouldent anyway, considering the age, and the rarity.

The logic is, that if I bought a bike for $200 it would be in the same shape. So by getting it for free, and then using the $200 for repairs, I get a better bike than if I bought one used.
They have small bikes at canadian tire for around $300 new, but they are crap, and I woulden't ride one even if it was free.

I spent alot of time on this bike before it was mine, I rode it more than the owner did, so he eventualy just gave it to me. It was passed around a bit before that, and it had the piston rings and cam chain replaced a year before I got it, but they never set the carb up, and it wasn't tuned right.

I've discussed it with my boss and my dad, and they both agree it would be a good idea just to leave it alone as far as modifying the setup of the engine, however, we have discussed using gasses, like NOS or something to boost power when needed.

I also have a blower that runs off of a 110v electric motor, I was thinking of changing the motor out for something that runs 12v, 9v or 6v, the only problem is that the bike generates AC power instead of DC, and I didn't get a chance to figure out the voltage max from the generator before the bike was stored for the winter.

The good thing would be that as the engine accelerated, the voltage would rise causing an increase in pressure like a turbo, how effective it is would be something to find out through actual use. I don't think it would do much, but it would be cool to hear the blower wind up when the throttle opened. The carburator is a 30mm and the blower output is aproximately 80mm. Don't know about CFM though.

Gases I considered using for injection where:

-Oxygen, expencive and has a chance of overheating.

-Hydrogen, not sure, but I was told it would act more like diesel, combusting with more of a BOOM, might blow the motor though.

-Quickstart, not realy a gas, but my boss used it to boost his scooter, the scooter didn't last long, but that was because he used it to run the engine when he was out of gas. It flew like it had nos though.

I still don't know, I'm kind of re-considering doing anything, since it's a classic, but the blower sounds like it might work, and sound cool. Even if it doesn't do anything major.

Tell me what you think about the gas types, and if you have any more to add to the list of posible and easy to get. (my dad has a method of getting hydrogen easy, but it would be a whole post on it's own to explain it, and I'd have to have him explain it again first.

"Please don't come after me if you blow up the motor or warp into a parallel universe." -PAracer
LOL, do demo users have sigs? because that is totaly something I'd put in my sig. With your permission of course.


@tristancliffe

That is something I considered myself, but the cam sprocket has a 2 bolt setup, and is 28T. The crank sprocket is a keyed shaft and is 14T, so the only way to make adjustments is to cut another key at another location, but that might throw the balance off. Having two key slots and only one key could throw the sprocket out of wack and cause vibration. And the cam sprocket has the same resault no matter which way it goes on because the teeth actualy line up with the wholes making for 14 teeth a half turn exactly on the wholes, no matter what way it goes on.

I wish I could adjust valve timing, but I can't without taking a big risk.

Quote from tristancliffe :

I still think you'd be better off with cam timing tweaks over spark tweaks. I doubt you'll 'blow your motor' with one tooth adjustment!!!

And any small spart advance (i.e. a safe one) will produce so little difference to the power/torque that you might as well not bother.

Can you get a new camshaft(s)? Or regrind the ones you've got?

The gears on the cam and crank are small, and have wide teeth, I think they are 10T and 20T respectively. So a single tooth means a big change.

I considered a new cam, but again, I only have a budget of $200 and a racing or high performance cam is more than $100, I can't justify that kind of expence.

I thaught of re grinding them, but even though I have the tools, the only thing I can do is increase the open and close slope or decrease the lift.

As I've been reading and responding, I've been realizing how little anything free is going to do for power, I figured combining the spark timing adjustments and the modifications to the muffler I was going to do would be enough to change the torque curve, I don't want more power over all, I want to change where the power is.

I think your right sinbad, but since I have to partialy rebuild the engine anyway, I might just try a spark timing tweak.

I don't realy know, I was hopeing there was something I haven't thaught of yet.

I've been assured by my mechanic/boss that the timing change will not cause problems as long as I don't over do it.

I guess I could loose the plastic side panels, there pretty banged up anyway.

The fenders are already gone, I was planing on buying a set though, because I kind of need them in the mud, otherwhise the engine gets covered in mud and overheats. The fenders actualy prevent splash off of the wheels and deflected mud from the tank from landing on the motor.

Other than that, there isn't any weight reduction I can do without spending the cash for a plastic tank, everything else is structual.
It's an XR75, it was actualy made for junior/introductory motocross, so there's no lights or battery or anything detatchable.

I guess I could always ride without a seat

As carbs go, I have the original 30mm carb, and a freakin huge 60 or 70mm snowmobile carb, unfortunately, that woulden't work to well.

And for cam timing, It's manufactured to stock, the only way to change it would be move it a tooth left or right on the cam gear, but that would set the timing so far off that it would blow the motor if it actualy started at all.

I was just kind of hopeing that I could get a little more power without having to buy aftermarket.

Edit: the dirt road by my friends house is basicaly my rolling road, I set the carb up there after the motor was rebuilt the first time.(not by me)

Last edited by DragonCommando, Wed, 5 Dec 2007 22:58.

Quote from sinbad :

There's not really a great deal you can do for free except to make sure it's clean and running a proper fuel mixture. Use a decent 2 stoke oil too.

If you haven't already, read up on expansion chambers before you think about messing with the exhaust. The last thing you want to do is to simply put a freeflowing system on.

It's actualy 4 stroke. So it doesn't have or need an expansion chamber.

Sorry, should have said that in the original post
I thaught of it after, but you'd already posted.

Here in toronto, theres a track near by, I think its about an hour and a half away from the city center.

It's only $60 canadian for a day at the track, you bring your car. moded or not.

We don't see alot of street racing in toronto these days, but I have witnessed a fue idots, who thaught just by adding a cool spoiler and front aero package that there car would magicaly turn into a formula one.

I've been thinking of ways to increase the performance of my motorbike without having to buy after market parts. I use it for booting around up in cottage country, And I would realy like to give it a little more kick. I can't spend more than $200 canadian on it, and all of that is going to parts for rebuilding the bike, like gaskets, washers, bolts and bushings.


I can't afford anything aftermarket at this point and I realy don't want to install aftermarket parts on such a classic bike. (Its a 77' honda)

The bike has a fairly flat torque curve, I'd like to make it more of a peak near the optimal range which is around 7000 to 10000 RPM.
It redlines at 10,500, or so I've been told. I don't have a tack to tell.
The bike has a close ratio low speed gear box, so after first, the power down low does nothing. and since it already rockets through first and almost rockets through second, I think I can sacrafice a little low end acceleration for some better performance at higher gears.
By rocketing through first I mean I can literaly shift to second and take off from a standing start almost as fast as a bigger bike.
It's only got a small 75cc engine and yet it launches off the line faster than my friends 125cc.

Things I have already considered, and may do are:

-Advance the spark timing, this will increase high rpm performance, but decrease low rpm performance. basicaly what I want.

-Run a less restricted exaust to reduce back pressure, again, more high rpm power, less low.

I think there is more I can do, but I cant think of anything else.
Anyone here done bike tuning? Is there anything I can do to give it more kick without spending the money on aftermarket parts?
I want to balance all of these changes so that I don't risk damage to the engine, I even have the shop manual and my boss to help me out

The first time I used vista, it was in the store. They had just set up the system, I walked over and clicked that round button that used to be labled start, and BOOM, total system failure. I walked away and the guys who had JUST set it up just stood there scratching there heads.

It was funny and sad at the same time.

It's not realy part of my job (yet), But I've been doing alot of research on alot of different aspects of cars and how they work, I've done research on everything from Engine braking to turbo chargers.

If I haven't researched it yet, I will have before I'm done.

Did I notice a fastest line display in the video?
Or is that for AI tracking only?

The reason they wear faster is because if both materials wear at relitively the same speed, they provide better stopping power, if you use hard steel the pads will glide across the rotors, if you use a softer steel or another material that wears faster, than the pads will bite into the rotor and provide greater stopping power.

But yes, they where steel, the owner of the car got the "Mid range" package for the rotors, but opted up to the high quality pads.

The car wasn't going to be used for intense racing, they just wanted to be able to stop if they decided to speed a bit.

but everything was Brembo high performance, even the original parts we took off.

Last edited by DragonCommando, Wed, 5 Dec 2007 01:21.

Quote from Vain :

Even huge FEM-simulations that take days to calculate on super-computers don't produce real brake-squeel behaviour. Many major car manufacturers tried it, but not a single virtual brake ever squeeled similarly as a real brake.
It's just not known to mankind how the geometry of a brake, temperature and speed work together to cause brake-squeel. If Scawen managed to approximate the squeeling behaviour of a brake accurately he'd be the first in the world.

That said, I'd appreciate a simple model that involves random factors a lot.

Vain

*coughs*
Then why do I know?

Brake rotors on high performance cars are made to wear faster,
I know, I changed a set last week because of it. I also changed the pads.

The brake pads actualy eat away at the rotors and constantly make them thinner, this isn't as exessive as it sounds but its fast enough to warrant changing them regularly, in some cases, mostly with full out race cars, every race.

This means that the surface of the rotor is constantly trued, now how does a "flat"(relatively) surface make a squeal when another flat surface makes contact? Because both surfaces are flat.

The edges of the pads on high performance brakes are champfered, but it doesn't take long for that to go away, after they become flat they are contacting the rotor with sharp edges, these edges bite into the material of the rotor and cause vibration, sound is vibration, so you get brake squeal. even with the bevel still there, cold brakes tend to squeal because the hardness is higher when the brakes are cold, so there is a short time between when they heat up to optimal temperature and when they lose the chamfer that they don't squeal.

I have drum brakes on my Motorbike, and they squeal when they are cold, however, after a while of riding it, I have noticed they squeal even when warm now. The edges of the shoes are not chamfered any more.

When I replace brakes on a road car, if the customer chooses cheap brakes, I was always taught to bevel them if they don't come that way, So the customer woulden't complain about squeal when he starts driving after the car was cold. Infact, even the high performance brakes I changed wheren't beveled, but they where OE pads, so I installed them without modifying them. They squealed when we pulled the car out of the shop.

Actualy, the XRT is modeled after a Mitsubishi Starion, you should google it. Its practiacaly identical on the outside.
Plus, one of the Devs, I think the modeler? actualy said its modeled after a starion.
I've actualy seen one race ready here in canada, very nice car.

Your supras not bad either.

Your best shot is to get a new copy of XP and get a new hard disk, Windows XP isn't very smart when it comes to damaged sectors on a disk. my windows 98 computer used to block damaged sectors and then write around them, XP doesn't seem to do this well.

If your hard drive is damaged, there's realy nothing you can do to fix it.

Quote from UncleBenny :

no. you are wrong.

how do you not understand this. the point of racing is to be the first across the finish line. the point of drifting is to score points with judges. how can you say that is the same thing?

I think he is trying to get at the point that they are both motor sports that you do with cars. They have different goals as he stated, but still, you do go around a track. Just with a different goal in mind.

I used to hate drifting, but one thing I realized is that if you learn how to do it, it helps alot with car controll in tight situations, sometimes drifting a corner or a whole set of corners is the only way to avoid a spin if you are not able to slow down enough after the turn in.

My dad owns a chevy 1 ton and from what I've learned from driving it, you should always be able to see at least the tip of your rear bumper in your mirror, of course, he has fish eye mirrors at the bottom corners of his normal mirrors as well. No matter how far in you put his mirrors it still won't give you any part of what you can see in your rear view. The only way to completely eliminate the blind spot and make the side mirrors showing the car pointless is to have a completely glass rear set, quarter pannels and all.

I have a pentium 4 and its not that bad, it rated at 85% power of a core 2 duo at 2.8ghz or something like that. Its a P4 3.2Ghz Presscott HT. most games that support multiple cores read this thing as a dual core or dual processor anyway. The source engine reads it as an HT though, because source has seperate optimized settings for each processor.

honestly, people will ask for this NFS garbage untill the day S3 final is out.(by then I should have a licence for S2) any NFS game after Porsche Unleashed/Unlimitied was just a big screwup in my opinion, most of them drive like slot cars after that.

I would like to see one of these people from NFS with all there tuner mods come over to LFS and try and race like they do with there 900+HP rice rocket. I would even let them have there car modded to 900+HP and I'd still kick there can across the finnish line. And I'm not even good at LFS yet. My fastest is a 1:29.51 on blackwood forward.

Car mods don't make for better racing, they make your car look stupid and make people think you are compensating for something.
My car In undeground 2 looked bone stock, and I've even raced against people with stage 2 upgrades using a bone stock car. I won, because I don't drive like a moron. My favorite car was the nissan 240sx, Front Rear configurations make for better racing cars even in Underground 2.

Quote from imthebestracerthereis :

see:
PNG VS JPG

You had to be using the WORST compression setting to get a jpeg to look that bad, all I use is jpeg for my online images that I post on Deviantart, its very rare that they lose any noticable quality, some you can even still see the textures I used which are very small.

I think the TV footage look could be cool, it's like the film grain shader in DOD:S, I was so exited to play DOD:S in monochrome and have the film grain effect. Unfortunately, they only use it when you are dead.

It doesn't look to unrealistic to me, infact it looks more realistic. you are watching it on a screen after all, its not like you will ever get the colors to match the real thing, in order to do that you'd need real HDR and a real HDR screen. Thats the only way you'd ever get it to look real, regardless of shaders or graphics quality.

on a side note, HDR effects can be achived by clipping the bottom and top of your contrast by lowering brightness and then pushing up the contrast untill you get even cliping on top and bottom. This is basicaly what most games do anyway to get that effect since your monitor can't display real HDR anyway. It lacks the contrast ratio to display the full contrast of true HDR which is around 100,000:1 or something if I remember correctly.

I am aware that there is more to HDR like in Source and that, but it's mostly more to the rendering of transparency and that, not colors and contrast, that is basicaly the same as clipping the crap out of it.

Quote from JeffR :

The key here is that it's air movement, not air pressure. Changes in pressure you get back, moving the air around corners (which is why this is engine dependent) is what's consuming most of the energy in the crankcase. Again, pro stock drag bikes and pro stock drag cars utilize crank case vacuum pumps. The bikes get more of a relative benefit because of the high rpms (13,000). There are other reasons for using vacuum pumps on crankcases for drag vehicles, but more power is one of the reasons for using them.

Several cars with V8's and fuel injection. The last time I did this was on 1997 Trans-Am WS6 about 5 years ago.

I just did more research into it because someone else would not belive me when I told them it was vacuum. They where intent on the fact it was compression.

"On deceleration or when descending a hill, the throttle will be closed and a low gear selected to control speed. The engine will be rotating fast due to the fact that the road wheels and transmission are moving quickly, but the butterfly valve will be fully closed. The flow of air through the engine is strongly restricted by the throttle, producing a strong vacuum on the engine side of the butterfly valve which will tend to limit the speed of the engine. This phenomenon, known as compression braking, is often used in engine braking to prevent acceleration or even to slow down with minimal or no brake usage (as when descending a long or steep hill). Note that although "compression braking" and "engine braking" are sometimes used to describe the same thing, "compression braking" here refers to the phenomenon itself while "engine braking" refers to the driver's usage of the phenomenon." ~quoted directly from an article on manifold vacuum.

interestingly, they solved the argument without knowing

No mater how you slice it, engine braking comes from a vacuum in the intake manifold, NOT from the crank case. In order for air to move that much to act as a resisting force in the crank case, it would have to build alot of pressure, and alot of pressure is bad inside a crank case.

The only reason you feel that resistance with the throttle open and the ignition off is because it still requires alot of energy to turn an engine that isn't provideing power of its own. Power that also negates any power lost to compression, which would end in engine stall. I've done my homework, I'm not just talking from experiance, but also from what I learned from my texts and my boss and teachers in auto mechanics.The reason I didn't mention engine drag so much before is because I was riding a small engine dirt bike, which doesn't provide that much engine drag, and air in the crank case has nothing to do with that.

Edit: a crank case vacuum pump doesn't reduce engine braking, it actualy reduces air drag on engine components (most notedly the crank shaft) which can provide an increase in top end performance. But that is still noted as a side effect, not the reason for using them. High performance engines experiance MORE engine braking than normal engines. Every high performance car I've ever seen has insane engine braking.
As stated, the only thing you get from the crank case is engine drag, which happens at any RPM regardless of engine type.

Last edited by DragonCommando, Tue, 30 Oct 2007 03:52.

Quote from JeffR :

In that case, you're not going to get a lot of engine braking, since compression and expansion of air under the single piston will not involve a lot of energy consumption.

A flat engine layout isn't going to have a lot of engine braking effects either. My statements about energy consumption under the piston were in reference to engines like an inline 4 or 6, or a V2, V4, V6, or V8 type engine.

My experiements with varying the throttle input with the engine shut off were done on cars with V8 engines.

But it does have alot of engine braking, with the throttle off it nose dives on the forks when I downshift. That is ALOT of engine braking, infact, if your not ready it can throw you off the seat and onto the tank.

I had another talk with my boss today about engine braking, if it was air movement under the pistons that provided engine braking it would blow out anything that held in that pressure change wherever it occured (we are talking enough pressure to slow the car down), if it was on an end piston the pressure change could blow out the seals. It actualy happens sometimes, the breather tube gets blocked and you get a pressure spike causeing things to pop out.

I also discussed the compression theory, it doesn't float either.
As stated the compresson stroke would act as a spring and the only loss there is to friction and energy dissipation through heat.

however, he did say you will get an engine braking feel when downshifting on a big engine, even with the throttle on full, but all that comes from is the effort the weight of the car has to put in to speed up the engine again. It is not related to engine braking, and isn't going to give you the full effect of engine braking because the engine speed will still rise where as if the throttle is left closed the engine will still try to return to idle. engine braking can take place without shifting if you are in a low enough gear because when the throttle closes you still get a vacume that brings the engine to idle, or as close as it can before the vacume is no longer enough to slow down the vehicle.

Edit: Infact, all engines have crank breathers regardless of design, if they didn't they'd be explodeing all the time.
Edit2: what vehicle where you driving JeffR?

Last edited by DragonCommando, Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:50.