If you spin, and you are in a full grid, you get to the Inside of the corner as fast as you can, because cars going around the corner can't slow down enough to go there. so logicaly you must hit the reverse and back out of the way. or drive forward if you are facing the inside.
Thats what I do, and no one has ever hit me. because I give them room to go around at there normal line.
I seem to be the only one on demo who races.
I ran against 4 other drivers, and they coulden't handel it, they finnished before me, but only because they intentionaly ran me off the road. either by side checking my car or rear ending me in the turns.
I out braked this one guy at the first turn after the straight, and the guy just rear ended me in the second. And that one put my front end flat.
Demo is good for SP, but I'm definatley waiting to get S2 before I play online with the FBM and try and race.
We even had people drifting the damn thing, they spun out and just sat in the middle of the track right after a turn. Caused a 3 car pile up, and put me out of the race. AGAIN!
How old was the oven?
Latley the quality of glass seems to be declining.
The number of glass tables I've seen break lately is rediculous.
Latley the quality of glass seems to be declining.
The number of glass tables I've seen break lately is rediculous.
Having a car just for drifting would be pointless, just today I was drifting with the XRG, the damn thing isn't even that powerfull. But if you lower it, and put road normals on the back, it becomes one hell of a drift car. Although it does seem kind of slow, even for a 2L. It's still driftable.
I'd actualy like to see a picture of those, As far as I know, all transports have drums all round.
I have NEVER seen disks on a transport truck, more likely on a large cube van or cargo truck, and those woulden't be air operated. None I know of with a 5th wheel has disks.
Edit: I found an article about air operated disks, but it states they arn't used because they are less reliable and don't provide high enough short term braking force to be used on transports.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
If you other demo users want to drift, setup the XRG for drifting.
I have no problem drifting it with the newest patch, and I can do a fue laps before the tires give out. If you drift with road tires of course they are going to heat up, they arn't designed for it. And I don't think the devs are ever going to put in drifting tires, that would just be shooting themselves in the foot.
From a demo user's point of view, the new patch is the greatest thing to bring me into buying the game. I've intended to do that for a long time now, but I've never had the money. When I get the money to buy any game, this is the first on my list. It probably will be on my list untill I get it. There's nothing they could add to make it more realistic that could possibly turn me away from this game.
I have no problem drifting it with the newest patch, and I can do a fue laps before the tires give out. If you drift with road tires of course they are going to heat up, they arn't designed for it. And I don't think the devs are ever going to put in drifting tires, that would just be shooting themselves in the foot.
From a demo user's point of view, the new patch is the greatest thing to bring me into buying the game. I've intended to do that for a long time now, but I've never had the money. When I get the money to buy any game, this is the first on my list. It probably will be on my list untill I get it. There's nothing they could add to make it more realistic that could possibly turn me away from this game.
The only time I blip is at the last downshift, because I never let off the clutch untill I'm ready to start the turn in, sometimes I go from 6-4 and than go to 3rd with a quick blip of the throttle during the turn in, without braking after I come to 4th.
This alows me to use engine braking to trail brake if I have to, but I still have the revs up to accelerate out of the turn quickly.
This alows me to use engine braking to trail brake if I have to, but I still have the revs up to accelerate out of the turn quickly.
I think I figured out part of my problem, as soon as someone said peddals not going 100% I checked mine.
They flicker, so I get 100% at random intervals and they constantly change between 70-90%.
My wheel also sometimes spazes, but I've learned to deal with that.
My wheel is a cheap Nexxtech $14 POS. so I'm realy learning why it's so important to have good gear, setups mean nothing if you can't controll the car properly.
They flicker, so I get 100% at random intervals and they constantly change between 70-90%.
My wheel also sometimes spazes, but I've learned to deal with that.
My wheel is a cheap Nexxtech $14 POS. so I'm realy learning why it's so important to have good gear, setups mean nothing if you can't controll the car properly.
Fastest laps with FBM
Since LFS World doesn't have the FBM yet
whats your fastest time with the FBM on blackwood GP forward?
I got a 1:20.68 and I'd like to know how I match up to other drivers.
And I can do 1:22.xx consistently.
whats your fastest time with the FBM on blackwood GP forward?
I got a 1:20.68 and I'd like to know how I match up to other drivers.
And I can do 1:22.xx consistently.
You are absolutley correct.
I just love it when people give me the argument that heel-toe downshifting gives you better braking distance. Engine braking, as you said, doesn't magicaly give you more grip, so if you threshold brake properly, you should have no problem out braking someone.
When brake heat is added, this is still going to be usefull, and you can still engine brake on single downshifts for faster turns, which is where you should be doing it.
Just read this, it explains how to blip with combined axis peddals, but you could apply it to keyboard or mouse use to.
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=35238
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=35238
Down shifting with combined peddals
Since so many people have been complaining about the loss of auto-blip with the new test patch, I decided it was time to post this.
If you have combined peddals, you can still blip the throttle on your downshift. You can not chain shift though, in other words, you can't go 5,4,3,ect.
So here is how you do it without burning the clutch.
-First you start braking.
-If you have a clutch peddal, press it. If not use a button to hold the clutch in.
-take the car out of gear, or if you use buttons or paddles, drop to the gear needed for exiting the turn.
-once you reach the end of your braking zone, put the car in gear and take your foot off the brake and apply a blip to the throttle. Let the clutch out AS you apply throttle. If this is done proprely, you should get a perfect rev match.
Then just use the throttle to go through the turn.
It's simple, and it takes very little time to get used to.
I had to learn this way because the setup I use has a shifter and clutch peddal, but the throttle and brake are on a combined axis.
I hope this helps some people, after driving both the XRG and the new car, I've found it to be quite effective in preventing unbalancing of the car and heating of the clutch
If you have combined peddals, you can still blip the throttle on your downshift. You can not chain shift though, in other words, you can't go 5,4,3,ect.
So here is how you do it without burning the clutch.
-First you start braking.
-If you have a clutch peddal, press it. If not use a button to hold the clutch in.
-take the car out of gear, or if you use buttons or paddles, drop to the gear needed for exiting the turn.
-once you reach the end of your braking zone, put the car in gear and take your foot off the brake and apply a blip to the throttle. Let the clutch out AS you apply throttle. If this is done proprely, you should get a perfect rev match.
Then just use the throttle to go through the turn.
It's simple, and it takes very little time to get used to.
I had to learn this way because the setup I use has a shifter and clutch peddal, but the throttle and brake are on a combined axis.
I hope this helps some people, after driving both the XRG and the new car, I've found it to be quite effective in preventing unbalancing of the car and heating of the clutch
Actualy, 18 wheelers use drums because they are air operated. making disk air brakes would over complicate things.
For normal everyday use, drums are good enough. Any racer with common sence would swap rear drums for disks though, as drums tend to be less reliable when you subject them to alot of load for a long time, they overheat fast.
18 wheelers use alot of engine braking so any argument about them having drums is pointless, since they are used only to bring the vehicle to a stop. Not for slowing down or decending hills, Thats done with the engine.
For normal everyday use, drums are good enough. Any racer with common sence would swap rear drums for disks though, as drums tend to be less reliable when you subject them to alot of load for a long time, they overheat fast.
18 wheelers use alot of engine braking so any argument about them having drums is pointless, since they are used only to bring the vehicle to a stop. Not for slowing down or decending hills, Thats done with the engine.
Oh god, thats ugly as hell!
I realy can't think of a reason for anyone to do something like that other than it being a joke.
Or they are just insane.
I realy can't think of a reason for anyone to do something like that other than it being a joke.
Or they are just insane.
Drum brakes would be a BIG mistake in LFS, when they added brake heating, the drums would fade like mad. leaving you with all brake force at the front, thats if the brake fluid doesn't hit boiling point and blow the flex lines.
In which case, you'd have no brakes! thats if they add fluid temp.
I just worked on drums this moring, they have to be the worst braking system ever, the wheel pistons always fail and leak all over the shoes, making already horrible braking performance even worse.
In which case, you'd have no brakes! thats if they add fluid temp.I just worked on drums this moring, they have to be the worst braking system ever, the wheel pistons always fail and leak all over the shoes, making already horrible braking performance even worse.
I still can't understand how people burn the clutch, I tired and it didn't burn!
Probably didn't try long enough though.
And yes I am using the latest test patch.
Probably didn't try long enough though.
And yes I am using the latest test patch.
It's actualy so severe on this bike that first gear lasts only long enough to let out the clutch, and I don't even let it slip that much. Most of the time my take off involves a small amount of front wheel lift, and as soon as I get going I have to shift into second, then redline comes at me like a bullet train and I have to go to third.
Most of the time, when I stop at a road crossing, I just put it in second and take off from there. Can't do that on a cold engine, but once it's warm, it makes enough power to redline 5th on a good straight.
Most of the time, when I stop at a road crossing, I just put it in second and take off from there. Can't do that on a cold engine, but once it's warm, it makes enough power to redline 5th on a good straight.
Funny thing is, I always thaught that I HAD to let off the throttle to shift, even before the latest patch.
So I'm already used to doing it.
If you can get another wheel and peddal set, you can have 4 peddals,
that being 2 combined sets.
I have a cheap Nexxtech steering wheel and an older interact V3. Combine that gives me 4 pedals, and because of LFS's open ended calibration system, I can use one of the peddals on the V3 set as a clutch peddal.
If you have 2 wheels and a FFB joystick, you can have a clutch and shifter without buying a G25, it's not as good, but it works for me.
So I'm already used to doing it.
If you can get another wheel and peddal set, you can have 4 peddals,
that being 2 combined sets.
I have a cheap Nexxtech steering wheel and an older interact V3. Combine that gives me 4 pedals, and because of LFS's open ended calibration system, I can use one of the peddals on the V3 set as a clutch peddal.
If you have 2 wheels and a FFB joystick, you can have a clutch and shifter without buying a G25, it's not as good, but it works for me.
Sorry for the late reply.
It actualy seems like there's enough power to get at least 5km/h more out of the bike as it is.
As it is now though, the bike isn't running full power either, so I can't pin the throttle at max and continue to accelerate. It actualy bogs out if I open it up. It will stop running untill I let off, so it basicaly just rolling stalls. I know whats wrong, it's included in my To-Do list.
After I fix it, I'm going to be able to open it up and I'll definately be running off the end of the final gear of the transmission.
I think the biggest problem is that the bike was designed for entry level motocross and I'm using it for flying around an area that has alot of long distances where the bike can reach its speed limmit. On a motocross track you generaly don't reach the top speed the bike can do horsepower wise, but you usualy gear it to make the most of the power at lower speeds.
However, Honda aparently knew it wasn't just going to be used for entry level motocross so they have a whole range of higher rear end gearing. Plus lower range ones, but I don't need them.
It actualy seems like there's enough power to get at least 5km/h more out of the bike as it is.
As it is now though, the bike isn't running full power either, so I can't pin the throttle at max and continue to accelerate. It actualy bogs out if I open it up. It will stop running untill I let off, so it basicaly just rolling stalls. I know whats wrong, it's included in my To-Do list.
After I fix it, I'm going to be able to open it up and I'll definately be running off the end of the final gear of the transmission.
I think the biggest problem is that the bike was designed for entry level motocross and I'm using it for flying around an area that has alot of long distances where the bike can reach its speed limmit. On a motocross track you generaly don't reach the top speed the bike can do horsepower wise, but you usualy gear it to make the most of the power at lower speeds.
However, Honda aparently knew it wasn't just going to be used for entry level motocross so they have a whole range of higher rear end gearing. Plus lower range ones, but I don't need them.
I do infact hit redline in 5th gear.
Thats something I'm actualy trying to change with the sprockets.
Thats something I'm actualy trying to change with the sprockets.
I've been looking at it from a practical point of view, and gearing changes are the best bet. The whole point is, that as it stands, engine speed at cruising speed in 5th gear seems to be to high.
It hits a range where the engine is at around 7000-8000 and it's cruising at optimal, I can accelerate up to maximum engine speed from there and it seems to be limmited by gears not power. I've been told that the redline for this bike is 10500RPM.
After thinking about it, This whole thing would have been a waste of time without changing sprockets, because the bike is limmited by it's transmission gearing once you get up to 5th.
I kind of feel like an idiot for not realizing that before
So I can get a higher top speed, without lossing hill climbing abillity as long as I get the rear end ratio right.
I will lose some acceleration, but that was the point in the first place, trade acceleration for top speed. I'd just forgoten that the bike already hit the top speed of the transmission.
[attach]43863[/attach]
Here is a chart I made of all the possible ratios and all of the ones I think would be ok. I marked the ones that are questionable in yellow, but for simplisity I marked them as being out of possible range on the chart, even though they are yellow not red.
I'm going to be going over this chart to decide which sprockets to buy, they are well within my budget, and I'd have to change them eventualy. So I figure it's worth a shot.
It's definately easier than moding the engine.
It hits a range where the engine is at around 7000-8000 and it's cruising at optimal, I can accelerate up to maximum engine speed from there and it seems to be limmited by gears not power. I've been told that the redline for this bike is 10500RPM.
After thinking about it, This whole thing would have been a waste of time without changing sprockets, because the bike is limmited by it's transmission gearing once you get up to 5th.
I kind of feel like an idiot for not realizing that before
So I can get a higher top speed, without lossing hill climbing abillity as long as I get the rear end ratio right.
I will lose some acceleration, but that was the point in the first place, trade acceleration for top speed. I'd just forgoten that the bike already hit the top speed of the transmission.
[attach]43863[/attach]
Here is a chart I made of all the possible ratios and all of the ones I think would be ok. I marked the ones that are questionable in yellow, but for simplisity I marked them as being out of possible range on the chart, even though they are yellow not red.
I'm going to be going over this chart to decide which sprockets to buy, they are well within my budget, and I'd have to change them eventualy. So I figure it's worth a shot.
It's definately easier than moding the engine.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
I think I could get a different sprocket set, I'll have to check it out.
I didn't even think about it, but that could be a solution.
I can't change the sprocket on the transmission, because a bigger one woulden't fit, but I could put a smaller one on the rear.
I'd have to change the chain length, but I think it has a master link already, so it should be as easy as on a pedal bike.
I could even make one, I'd have to do some serious work, but It's possible.
Thats probably the best solution I've got.
Edit:
The front can actualy be increased by one tooth, the original gearing is:
front 14 tooth
rear 46 tooth
and the selection I have to chose from is
Sprocket - Front - 12 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 13 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 14 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 15 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 35 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 36 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 37 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 38 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 41 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 44 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 46 Tooth
The front sprockets apearantly run around $14.95 US, and the rears are $18.95 US
I'd have to have them shipped, but it's still well within my budget.
I was actualy planing to get new ones anyway.
Thanks for the ideas guys, keep them comming.
I didn't even think about it, but that could be a solution.
I can't change the sprocket on the transmission, because a bigger one woulden't fit, but I could put a smaller one on the rear.
I'd have to change the chain length, but I think it has a master link already, so it should be as easy as on a pedal bike.
I could even make one, I'd have to do some serious work, but It's possible.
Thats probably the best solution I've got.
Edit:
The front can actualy be increased by one tooth, the original gearing is:
front 14 tooth
rear 46 tooth
and the selection I have to chose from is
Sprocket - Front - 12 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 13 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 14 Tooth
Sprocket - Front - 15 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 35 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 36 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 37 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 38 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 41 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 44 Tooth
Sprocket - Rear - 46 Tooth
The front sprockets apearantly run around $14.95 US, and the rears are $18.95 US
I'd have to have them shipped, but it's still well within my budget.
I was actualy planing to get new ones anyway.
Thanks for the ideas guys, keep them comming.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
holy cow, that must have cost you a lot.
I'm on a limited budget of $200 for repairs and upgrades, but the upgrades are only what's posible without spending money for aftermarket parts.
I think I'm kind of in a corner as far as getting more power out of this bike without serious moding. I think my original idea of just changing the torque curve is more reasonable.
It's going to take a combination of things to get a noticable power difference without risking the reliability of the engine.
I'm thinking a list is in order.
-advance the timing (even if it does very little, every bit counts)
-advance cam timing (I'm considering it now, but I'm still a bit nevous about messing with valve timing)
-reduce exhaust restriction
-polish ports
-fine tune the carburator to the extreme
Thats all I can think of right now, I want it to be reliable, thats why I'm trying to avoid aftermarket parts. I've read that alot of people put bolt-ons on this bike and it makes it less reliable.
The whole point to this originaly was to change the torque curve so there is more power in the useable range after first gear.
I kind of lost that idea after a while and started getting off the wall a bit.
I'm thinking going completely stock now. other than a rebuilt exhaust system. And possibly doing some re-porting. My boss has all of the tools to do that, and he knows what he's doing.
I guess it just all comes down to the fact that I've been realy thinking I could get more than what's posible from this bike.
Problem is, I can't sell this bike. I made a promise that I'd hand it down to someone else when I'm finnished using it. I figure I might as well make the most of what I've got.
When you have 7hp, even one more makes a difference. I figured I could atleast get it to 9.
I didn't even think about Compression with the blower, It's at 9.1:1 stock, so I thaught that would be fine. As for the spark, I'm positive it would be strong enough for the amount of boost a blower would provide. It wouldn't even make 6psi. Though, after considering it, I think polishing and porting is all I can do. which is good enough for me, it's free and it works if you know what your doing.
I wouldent have even thaught about it if it wasn't for you people.
One funny thing is, I once "Boosted" my snowmobile with an air compressor, all it realy did was make the engine rev up faster, but it was fun as hell to hear the thing scream. Unfortunaltey, the reason I did it was because the crank seals where gone, so the only way to get fuel to the combustion chamber was to force it out of the crank with a shot of air. I did it to see if it was just the crank seals, they only cost 10 dollars at a snowmobile shop. I never got around to getting them though.
@Osco
Edit: It's a throttle slider carb.
What mods do you have on that bike? Just polished carb and intake/exhaust?
That sounds like a lot of horse power for a 50cc. Then again, it's 2 stroke. The littlest things seem to make a big difference on a 2 stroke.
I guess it just all comes down to the fact that I've been realy thinking I could get more than what's posible from this bike.
Problem is, I can't sell this bike. I made a promise that I'd hand it down to someone else when I'm finnished using it. I figure I might as well make the most of what I've got.
When you have 7hp, even one more makes a difference. I figured I could atleast get it to 9.
I didn't even think about Compression with the blower, It's at 9.1:1 stock, so I thaught that would be fine. As for the spark, I'm positive it would be strong enough for the amount of boost a blower would provide. It wouldn't even make 6psi. Though, after considering it, I think polishing and porting is all I can do. which is good enough for me, it's free and it works if you know what your doing.
I wouldent have even thaught about it if it wasn't for you people.
One funny thing is, I once "Boosted" my snowmobile with an air compressor, all it realy did was make the engine rev up faster, but it was fun as hell to hear the thing scream. Unfortunaltey, the reason I did it was because the crank seals where gone, so the only way to get fuel to the combustion chamber was to force it out of the crank with a shot of air. I did it to see if it was just the crank seals, they only cost 10 dollars at a snowmobile shop. I never got around to getting them though.
@Osco
Edit: It's a throttle slider carb.
What mods do you have on that bike? Just polished carb and intake/exhaust?
That sounds like a lot of horse power for a 50cc. Then again, it's 2 stroke. The littlest things seem to make a big difference on a 2 stroke.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
Right now, the compression is fine. The piston rings where changed and the valves where cleaned last year.
I tested the ignition system my self, it sparks fine.
The engine will be configured to stock settings, I actualy just decided that with my boss on friday. He's agreed to let me use the tools in our shop to do the repairs, so I'm going to be getting everything overhauled and torqued to spec.
Getting it to stock isn't an issue, but anything after that, like performance improvements is going to be.
The air filter is a single foam cylinder, its much bigger than the actual intake system, so there's minimal restriction in the intake, it goes from about a 2.5 inch opening in the air box to a 30mm opening on the carb. I'd been running it without a filter for a couple weeks before I realized there wasn't one. I made one out of cloth as a temp fix, and it didn't change performance at all. I actualy have the filter included in the list of parts I'm getting.
I think the only thing I can do if engine adjustments won't do anything is add bolt ons. But I'd have to improvize, I can't buy anything pre-made like kits. And there isn't much room now that I think about it.
[attach]43719[/attach]
Image from google
This is what my bike looks like, minus the fenders and number plate.
I also added a fue things to the image to show how tight for space the frame is.
The exhaust is a customized version of the one on the XL version, It's been modified to work with my XR. I didn't modify it though, I got it that way. It's quieter (somewhat) but doesn't reduce power. both versions of the bike are exactly the same exept for transmission gears and exhaust. The XL75 is a road worthy version of this bike, it has lights and signals. And instead of a 5 speed close ratio, it has a 4 speed gear box, much like the one from the earlier model XR.
I added the wheel sizes so you can get an idea of the size of the bike. As you can see there isn't much space, I'm sure I could figure out a way to add a boost system somehow. It just can't be bought, I have a blower that I could use, it's just figuring out how to use it.
I could run it off of a pulley on the fly wheel, I'd have to modify the engine case on the left side of the bike though.
It would act sort of as a super charger. It's probably wishfull thinking though.
I tested the ignition system my self, it sparks fine.
The engine will be configured to stock settings, I actualy just decided that with my boss on friday. He's agreed to let me use the tools in our shop to do the repairs, so I'm going to be getting everything overhauled and torqued to spec.
Getting it to stock isn't an issue, but anything after that, like performance improvements is going to be.
The air filter is a single foam cylinder, its much bigger than the actual intake system, so there's minimal restriction in the intake, it goes from about a 2.5 inch opening in the air box to a 30mm opening on the carb. I'd been running it without a filter for a couple weeks before I realized there wasn't one. I made one out of cloth as a temp fix, and it didn't change performance at all. I actualy have the filter included in the list of parts I'm getting.
I think the only thing I can do if engine adjustments won't do anything is add bolt ons. But I'd have to improvize, I can't buy anything pre-made like kits. And there isn't much room now that I think about it.
[attach]43719[/attach]
Image from google
This is what my bike looks like, minus the fenders and number plate.
I also added a fue things to the image to show how tight for space the frame is.
The exhaust is a customized version of the one on the XL version, It's been modified to work with my XR. I didn't modify it though, I got it that way. It's quieter (somewhat) but doesn't reduce power. both versions of the bike are exactly the same exept for transmission gears and exhaust. The XL75 is a road worthy version of this bike, it has lights and signals. And instead of a 5 speed close ratio, it has a 4 speed gear box, much like the one from the earlier model XR.
I added the wheel sizes so you can get an idea of the size of the bike. As you can see there isn't much space, I'm sure I could figure out a way to add a boost system somehow. It just can't be bought, I have a blower that I could use, it's just figuring out how to use it.
I could run it off of a pulley on the fly wheel, I'd have to modify the engine case on the left side of the bike though.
It would act sort of as a super charger. It's probably wishfull thinking though.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
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