Quote from NightShift :

Indeed you have a point in waiting, better things are often ahead but keep holding your breath forever and you're going to die from choking

That is a realy good phrase, I'm going to remember that one.

Thanks Tristancliffe, and by the way the pole looks after just a fue minuts, it looks like it's going to be mostly no problems.

I'm not generaly abusive with my stuff, its just with my past experiance with logitech I'm a bit hesitant to pay $300 for another logitech gaming device.

I'm thinking of getting a G25, but I want to know how reliable it is.
I will have the money on thursday, but I cant decide if I'm actualy going to spend the $300 on it.

If you have a G25 please click the appropreate button. Even if it was a minor failure and was sorted out by customer care.

This will help me determine if I'm going to buy it or save my money and wait half a year for the G27. If I where to wait, I'd have to wait untill a fue months after other people got it because I'd want to know if it was good or not. I've had two logitech joysticks in the past that have failed even though I hardly ever used them.

The thing is, having worn one of those racing helmets, I never even noticed the helmet, all you realy see is a bit of a black ring around your vision at first, but after a while, you don't even notice it.

I finnished an entire trail run (in good time to) on my dirt bike and didn't even notice the helmet untill the end when I took it off. The effect you get from wearing them wouldent even show up on a monitor, because you see the sides of the helmet as much as the top and bottom, its just a fuzzy black box around your vision, its not realy a small slot across.

Now that I ride vintage though, I wear a bell bubble helmet, one of the old helmets with the clip-on visor. Almost identical to the ones they used in 70's F1.

I actualy don't have a G25, for me it wasn't worth it, the shifter is too prone to failure. I've see way to many people spend the $300 for one only for it to break in the first month.

I'm actualy waiting to see if the G27 is any better, then I'll buy it.

I realy havent had much luck with logitech anyway. I've had two of thier joysticks fail on me. Both of them lost the handel twist function within the first month of having it, and I didn't even use them that much.

Quote from NightShift :

Most road cars only have 5 speeds thus, sprinkle some magic script dust on it, and you can have reverse where you want

But this wheel is designed for race cars, and most of those have 6 speeds with reverse at the top left or bottom right. That is if they have an H-gate at all.

Thank you Hyperactive, I realy didn't want to take apart another wheel unless I was sure I could fix the problem.

I've taken apart/fixed so many controlers now that I'm kind of tired of doing it. But since this is my only wheel at the moment, I'm going to see what I can do. I may even shim the spring if thats possible, to make it tighter at the ends like my thrustmaster used to be.

I've actualy considered this myself.

I say go for it, you need something like an 8 button game pad.

You could solder the contacts onto the button locations on the game pad, it would work pretty well.

The only thing you have to worry about is making the knex part strong enough. Just make sure you make as many X shaped sections as possible, this way everything will be strong.

It wouldent fry right away, but I wouldent run it that high for long. Ususaly DC motors can take up to 150% thier rated current without harm. The smaller ones can take upto 200% sometimes, but they heat up quickly.

I used to run all of my 3v creations on 4.5v for extra speed, so I have alot of experiance in over powering things. I ususaly know what will work and what will fry.

30v into a 12v motor will heat up very quickly, and in possibly as short as 5 minuts it will start to burn the motor. Keep it to long and it will catch fire.

This coming from someone who put 110 AC through a 12v motor to see what would actualy happen.

Unfortunately not, the MOMO's shaft size is different. The microsoft one is larger, so it wouldent fit.

I would just stick with what you have, microsoft wheels seem to be the only thing microsoft made well.

If you are using the pot (sensor) from the pedals and hooking it up to the control chip of the joystick, I know whats wrong.

The Pot is a variable resistor, most of the ones used in pedal sets are either 20k 50k or 100k ohms. this means that over the entire rotation of the pot, the resistance changes between 0 and what ever the pot is rated at.

If the joystick pots are rated at 20k and the pedal set pots are rated at 100k you will only get about 1/5th of the actual travel. This is because the joystick is looking for 20k at max resistance, which the pedal pot is going to provide at only 1/5th a revolution. That is of course if the controler is using simple resistance metering/voltage based. In which case the pots will only have two (2) wires going to them.

If the pot has three (3) wires then the controler is using the pot as a voltage divider, in which case you could use any pot since the controler is looking at the in and out voltage, and then using the inbetween from the variable resistor to find out where along the axis the pedals/joystick handel is.

Since you are getting only a quarter of the distance, your using a joystick that uses the first method, and all I can suggest is that you find out what resistance pot the joystick uses, and then get one of the same resistance and put it into the pedals.


Edit: Ignore all of the above unless you want to know a little more about how this stuff works.
now that you posted a little more info, you need to use a pot with a larger turn radius. find one with the same resistance and has 300 degrees of rotation.

Don't even bother splicing those cables together, you'd probably just fry the PS2 controler.

I realy hope the G27 comes with an 8 gate shifter, so we can configure it with reverse wherever we want. Geting rid of the push down reverse would on its own fix part of the reliability problem with the g25 shifter.

Find a flea market and look for a wheel there, thats what I did.

And I scored a Microsoft sidewinder precision USB for $30.

It's not force feedback, but if you install the right drivers you can run the pedals on seperate axis mode. It's a very well constructed wheel, not quite as well constructed as the Thrustmaster Nascar, but those don't work on XP anymore.

Bump

Nobody here has taken one apart? Not even the DIY guys?

I've taken enough racing sets apart that I can do it easily, I just don't want to do the work without knowing if it's worth it or not.

I recently bought a Microsoft Sidewinder Precision wheel used for $30 canadian. I realy like this wheel, and I've already started using it in LFS with my custom 3 pedal setup.

I just have one issue with it. The steering has a small amount of slop.
What I mean is that somewhere in the wheel something is loose and when you return the wheel to center, the actual reading is off to one side by about 3/255+-.

I was going to take the wheel apart and check it out, but I want to know something first. And Im sure someone here has taken one of these apart.

Is the steering optical, or is it a pot? I want to know this first so I know if I can fix it or not.

Aftermarket transmissions for most road cars ususaly come in three types. Low speed, High speed and Close ratio.

Any gear kits you can get for road car transmissions will convert the stock transmission to one of these types, and they usualy can't be mixed together.

Custom ratios are possible, but are limited and expensive.

I say +1 to limiting the road cars to only a couple gear sets.

I'm not a fan boy for either company. For the most part I've been sticking with what has worked for the past 15 years for my family, ATI.

I've had 2 Nvidia cards, and they both bit the bullet rather quickly. Got an ATI right after both, and in the same computer, it never died.
I still have my old Rage pro AIW 8mb PCI, it still works.

I won't say Nvidia sucks, they make good cards, but from what I've heard, ATI has better drivers for thier PCI-e cards right now.

That article basicaly confirms what I said.

Also, heavy wheels will not EVER prevent a high torque engine from spinning the wheels, because again, that has completely to do with the grip of the tires. Sure it will make the whole car heavier, and that might have an effect, but it will also kill the performance of the vehicle.

Heavy wheels reduce handeling and ride quality.

From my experiance older mercedes have some odd handeling characteristics. That could have been just the car I drove, but I don't know. I drove an 88' Benz, not sure what model. It was red with grey accents and had lowering spring installed.

They may be cheap to purchase, but how is the insurance where he is?
Over here, insurance can go up just because you have a luxery car.

If you are looking for something thats rock solid, and don't mind the squareness of it. Older volvos seem to be pretty decent cars. The newer ones are crap though, the computers have serious issues.

But if you get something like a 240 or a variant of, they arn't the quickest, but it'll last if you maintain it. They are the most common car I see lately because the 240 is like a tank, some say they are the best cars ever made for reliability. They also have fairly decent fuel economy.

Quote from Zen321 :

Kinda wrong. Some cars when modded requires heavier wheels than stock so that the added power/torque won't make the spin too much. In some other cars, lighter materials = faster times.

wrong. :/

Heavier wheels will always reduce the performance of a car, increasing the weight of the wheels will not add traction to the tires, for that you need high performance tires.

This is more true on rough tracks where there are alot of holes and cracks. Lighter wheels = less mass to rebound, which means the tires stay in full contact with the ground for a longer period of time. Which gives you more traction.

Modeling a torque converter shoulden't be to hard, they arn't all that complicated.

There's actualy one game I know of that already simulates automatic transmissions realy well. It's called SODA Off Road Racing. Its pretty old and doesn't run well on new systems.

But it simulated everything including creep. You actualy had to hold the brake to keep the vehicle from moving. Taking off from a stand still was almost like doing it in a real car with an A/T.

@ W4H
exactly, more throttle = less vacuum, which will lead to more air volume entering the engine, and at a higher pressure, even if the engine doesn't accelerate.

@ssm
I realy don't want to go through explaining how vacuum controlls an engine.

Quote from dev :

Have 80% of you ever actually seen a car, not to mention driven it? I haven't read so much nonsense in quite a while...

Have you ever seen an engine, not to mention worked on one?

If you have nothing good to add why did you even post?