Please, please, PLEASE tell me you have actualy overheated the tyres on a vehicle in real life.
If you have ever oveheated a tyre that badly in real life you would know that LFS's grip loss is fairly realistic. Its not perfect, but when you overheat a tyre it does become like driving on ice.
I overheated the rear tire on my honda dual sport bike, doing stupid things like drifting. And I can tell you, when it gets hot enough, it will not grip at all. I had to stop and let the tyre cool down before I could continue, and this is a small engine bike. If I had a larger engine I would have been screwed. Its just a good thing there was a new set of tyres waiting, which was partly the reason I had fun with it.
Tyres arn't designed to opperate at those temperatures, and when they get that hot they will fade just as badly if not worse than drum brakes, which I also have experiance with.
Tyres start to get greasy when they realy heat up, the softeners and plasticizers boil out of the tyre (causing smoke) and the tyre becomes completely usless, after it cools it will be permanantly damaged as well because the surface will re-harden and become a slick shiny blue-blackish color.
I have seen someone spin around in third gear because they overheated thier tyres, they floored it and did doughnuts because they thaugt it was funny, and then they realized they had just sealed the tyres fate and would need new ones right away.
Before you post something like that, you should do research and figure out if it is realy wrong or not. I personaly have experianced overheated tyres causeing "Driving on soap".
Having matched a fue boats and engines before, I'd say get a 9.9hp Johnson.
The 9.9hp Johnson is a very reliable engine, I've had one on my boat for a long time now. Even if you get one used, it would be reliable.
Its also lighter and smaller than alot of other motors. Its smaller than both my Mercury 6hp and my 4.5hp johnson. Its not all that much lighter though.
For a boat that size, I think a 9.9hp johnson would be ideal.
You guys are filling this dude's head with all these ideas and he is getting a car for the first time, if he puts a turbo on it, it should be a simple turbo kit, nothing crazy.
For low boost, provided he rebuilds the engine, it should be fine. If he wants to go crazy with it then he needs to put in stronger parts.
A low boost application isn't going to require reducing compression or putting in forged internals. The KA24de engine was never produced in a turbo version, but it can take a small amount of boost and still be reliable.
Its all about taking care of it properly.
edit: if he gets an S13 240sx (old body style) then it will have a KA24E, but it doesn't make much difference in what he can do to it.
Having been watching that anime lately because of bordom, I WOULD NOT REPEAT ANY OF THAT IN REAL LIFE.
Sure it looks cool in an anime, but do that in real life and you WILL DIE. Its not a case of if, its a case of when.
I actualy enjoy that anime because as much as it would be crazy to do any of that stuff, I haven't seen one bullshit move yet, its all been possible. I'm not that far in though.
On a side note, I have driven in the dark with no headlight, I was on my dual sport honda bike, and the headlight shorted out. I had to drive home by moonlight wherever it showed through the trees. I went very slowly.
The first is a heavily modified 1986 honda civic, the kind with the blocky styling and headlights. That car is so small and light it would be a monster if you put it together right. I'm not talking just an engine and transmission. I would gut the whole thing, cut out the middle of the floor, and put a completely custom RWD layout into it. Completely rework the suspension and rear bodywork to accept wider tires front and rear. I would turn a honda civic into a rear wheel drive rocket, with downforce if needed.
That car would be no joke, people would think I'm crazy putting wide tires on the back of a front wheel drive car, then they'd realize its not front wheel drive anymore.
My second dream car is a bone stock Hemi Cuda in alpine white. I would do just about anything to get my hands on one of those. That would be my daily driver while the RWD civic would never see a patch of public road again.
If you want to turbocharge a KA24E (the engine in the North American 240SX) you will want to rebuild the engine first, and think about some forged internals if you want to go to higher boost levels.
Most likely you will find one that was heavily used, and the compression levels will be low, meaning you will have alot of blow by in the pistons, turbocharging it at that point would be a bad idea.
Most nail guns have such a simple safety that it can be overcome with a simple strip of duct tape.
There is the odd one that has a double interlock that actualy forces you to remove the gun from the surface and place it back again to fire the next shot though. but I got bored one day actualy rigged a paperclip to make that work on a trigger pull.
Weapons of any type shoulden't be banned in my opinion, and I definately doubt that it will even come in to question with nail guns. People just need to become more responsible with things. A gun and a car are both just as deadly in the wrong hands.
If anyone pulled a weapon on me I realy hope for thier health that they intend to use it, because if they don't they arn't going to have it for very long.
A properly fitted turbo charger or super charger will not do any damage or reduce the life of the engine. running low boost pressures will be fine on some stock engines, because they are just an N/A version of the same engine that would have a turbo.
Most "tuners" run rediculous boost levels and havn't got a clue about building an engine that will handel a turbo properly. These kinds of people put a turbo on without actualy taking it to someone who can do it properly.
A professionally built engine with forced induction will last just as long as it's N/A counterpart, but will ususaly have slightly, or even vastly different internal components.
Most of the effects in LFS are already as loud as they can go without clipping, or even slightly louder. In the BF1 this is most noticable if you turn up the wind noise, it actualy starts clipping enough to be noticable.
If you want more wind noise, just turn down the other effects slightly, and turn up your speakers/headphones.
BUMP
I switched everything over to the new case, and now everything runs just or well under maximum recommended temps at 100% load.
But I still get the Loop, which has me quite puzzled.
The only things left that have not been replaced are the Power supply, and CPU. However, the CPU passes all stress tests on its own, so it most likely isn't that.
Now I realize the power supply has been subjected to temps beyond what it should have, so I am replacing that regardless. But the graphics card is once again my number one suspect, and here is why.
I just got a second monitor, for a simple test I hooked it up as a secondary and loaded SoftTH set up for two monitors. I loaded up LFS with nothing else running, and at idle temps.
The second I put LFS into a resolution that switched it onto both monitors the computer locked up, 3d or not. This leads me to belive there is something wrong with the card itself, but I'm not sure.
I'm replacing it regardless now, along with the power supply.
The Frex wheel is cool and all, but with all the pros it has one major con, the hard stops that you have to adjust to set the rotation are weak. Unless you use alot of degrees, you are going to bend them alot.
I would have figured they would have made some type of seperate jack screw for wheel rotation, it would have made the construction a little bit more complex, but the adjustment would be easier.
I think its funny that people say things are only possible in a specific version of Direct X when they have never even programed with it.
Direct X 7 can do reflections, hell, any renderer could do reflections if it is programed to.
Everybody is so stuck on this shader crap that they think you can't do anything cool without it. you can do alot of realy crazy effects without shaders, reflections being just one of them.
I've tried every driver version and variation compatable with my card. I even added my card's ID lines to the first version drivers, which gave the same resaults.
It appeard for a while that different drivers would crash at different times or in some applications that others would not. But what I have found is that seems to be completely related to my habbits and not some differences in the drivers. I get crashes after longer periods of time if the computer is freshly turned on.
If I play LFS it still crashes, which leads me to belive its not the graphics card or drivers, LFS uses such simple DX code it can't be causing problems when I can run 3d studio max perfectly fine indefinately in DX 8 or 9 mode.
Plus it seems to be completely API independant, most 3d driver issues are API dependant. I play a port of Duke3d called Eduke32 that runs OpenGL and it still crashes, even when theres hardly any load on the GPU.
I have been scratching my head over this error for years, and the only thing I can change now is temps, everything else has been played with and tweaked. This error is literaly like a parasite, it latches on and won't let go.
Edit: I've decided to buy the xblade case and pull out some exessively high CFM fans, the fans for the xblade are 120mm for the front intake and rear exhaust, and an 80mm fan for the side. I'm going to put my industrial cooling fan on the side and hopefuly I will be able to find 120mm fans to my taste, the stock ones glow blue, but I'm not buying them with the case. And I always found glowing fans to be just a waste of power.
I have reinstalled windows several times, even different versions.
@all
I have completely cleaned the case, replaced the thermal compound, tried more powerful fans, the works. Apearantly prescotts are well known for producing alot of heat, 103w of heat dissipation. And it doesn't help that my case is a pretty cheap one.
I have semi-ghetto modded it already, I cut a hole in the side, because it didn't come with a side mount fan from the store. I put an 80mm industrial helical prop fan in the side. It doen't have a speed sensor, atleast not one that is compatible with a PC motherboard, but it causes the CPU cooler fan to rotate at 3000rpm instead of 2600rpm. It has a through put of approximately 55CFM. My two rear vent fans are 32CFM each as well.
I realy think I'm wasting my time with this case.
It doesn't BSOD for some reason, it used to when I had Windows 98 and very early on with XP.
The error is "The device driver ati_(insert name here).dll for device video 0 got stuck in an infinite loop". The actual DLL name changes from one driver version to the next. I get this message in event viewer, but only if I leave the computer locked untill it auto reboots, or the sound stops looping.
I realy hope that the final fix is getting a better case, I realy never thaught it would cause this much trouble, but after stress testing with prime95 I realize I have a realy big overheating issue, and I can't afford to replace much more than the case.
I was offered an xblade case yesterday (right after posting even) for $65 without fans or PSU, I have all the fans I could dream of since I collect all kinds of junk, and I am more than sure my PSU is still good since it actualy runs closer to specifications than I have ever seen in a PSU.
I just don't want to buy the case and find out heat wasn't the issue, although the case would still make a realy nice one for my next computer.
I switched PSUs because the no-name one wasn't all that future proof, they took it as an exchange and I only had to pay the difference. I never like buying no-name brand parts, it always leaves too much to be questioned.
I have never even tried overclocking anything, this computer has always run too hot for my liking. I would be too afraid to do damage.
I have memory tested every single memory module I have ever installed in this computer. I left it for about 12 hours every time. It only failed once, and that was for the original module the computer came with.
I will try prime95, I never stress tested my CPU. I'm pretty sure I know what the log will look like when its done though. Right now it's idling at about 56 degrees, And thats with the case open.
Edit 1: The CPU is already at 70ºC and its been running for only 5 minuts.
Edit 2: I tried to run the CS:S video stress test in window mode, to see what would happen to my graphics card temp. Ran nice and smoothe, untill it froze. something tells me it has to do with my CPU being at 70ºC because I ran the test on an idle processor and it never crashed.
I've had this horrible error hounding me for literaly three years now, people call it the infinite loop error. For some it happens all the time, for me only in certain games (LFS included unfortuantely)
It seems to be related to my graphics card, the error is located in the graphics drivers, but the wierd thing is it seems to have followed me across complete hardware changes.
Over the past two years I've done everything I can think of. I've changed my GFX card (made it WORSE), ram, and PSU, I've even gone as far as to change my motherboard, in hopes this will go away.
The only thing I haven't done is changed my CPU or case!
The symptoms are pretty simple, the whole computer hard locks, nothing but the power or reset switch will work, and the screen goes black and sleeps.
It started on my Radeon 9000, but it was never a real problem, now with the HD 2600 pro AGP I was just barely able to afford at the time (I'm a poor bastard), it happens all the time. It's not limmited to ATI cards though, as people experiance it on Nvidia cards as well.
I think its heat related because no matter what my case temp always hovers around 40ºC at idle, And before I did a fan speed tweak on my GFX card it was always at 55-58ºC idle. now I've got it idle at 51ºC, but I still think thats too high.
I'm thinking of getting a bigger case, because I've been told my case is too small for all the hardware I've got crammed in it. I've got two 80mm fans on the back, an 80mm fan on the side, and the biggest CPU cooler that will fit in the case and it still idles at 40ºC, and the CPU still gets very hot.
Do you guys think a bigger case is my only option here? I mean the number of fans I'm running is pretty rediculous and it still runs hot.
Alternatively, do you think that could be the problem at all?
What I do to manage with the turbo is try to make sure the car is going straight when it starts making boost. If its going to make boost mid corner like on some of the long corners on Aston I let it slip just a little.