People don't belive something is possible and they call it fake, but I have seen a vehicle take that much abuse and keep running.
Someone came to the garage I worked at with an Eagle Vista mini van, the thing was so badly beat up you could hardly call it a vehicle anymore.
The body was twisted, the fenders where bent and rusted, the transmission and engine where actualy sitting partly sideways under the vehicle. There wasn't enough left of it to even lift, when we tried to lift it the vehicle started to fold in half. But it still ran!
The guy apearantly had never taken it for any general maintance. for all I could tell the same oil was in the engine from when it came from the factory.
People underestimate the build quality of older vehicles because they see all the crap produced now and assume that engines somehow got better when in fact they got worse.
I have a honda XL125s from 1981, this thing has seen so much abuse its not even funny. The person who had it before me put it through motorbike hell. Theres no turn signals left, not even the stocks for them. The forward sprocket cover is half missing, the tank is dented, the exhaust tip is completely gone, and the throttle had to be duct taped in place. I can't even imagine how many times he probably ran it over redline.
I plan on rebuilding it, but I could probably run it for another 20 years and it would just keep going.
Someone came to the garage I worked at with an Eagle Vista mini van, the thing was so badly beat up you could hardly call it a vehicle anymore.
The body was twisted, the fenders where bent and rusted, the transmission and engine where actualy sitting partly sideways under the vehicle. There wasn't enough left of it to even lift, when we tried to lift it the vehicle started to fold in half. But it still ran!
The guy apearantly had never taken it for any general maintance. for all I could tell the same oil was in the engine from when it came from the factory.
People underestimate the build quality of older vehicles because they see all the crap produced now and assume that engines somehow got better when in fact they got worse.
I have a honda XL125s from 1981, this thing has seen so much abuse its not even funny. The person who had it before me put it through motorbike hell. Theres no turn signals left, not even the stocks for them. The forward sprocket cover is half missing, the tank is dented, the exhaust tip is completely gone, and the throttle had to be duct taped in place. I can't even imagine how many times he probably ran it over redline.
I plan on rebuilding it, but I could probably run it for another 20 years and it would just keep going.
You just can't kill a Toyota pickup.
Check this out, if you watch all three parts its epic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrk6vsb77xk
They did the folowing and it still ran!
- drove it down a flight of stairs
- crashed it into a tree
- dumped it in the ocean
- drove it through a building
- droped a trailer on it
- hit it with a wrecking ball
- blew up a tall building with it ontop.
And the damn thing still drove away from it all!
They definately don't make them like that anymore.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrk6vsb77xk
They did the folowing and it still ran!
- drove it down a flight of stairs
- crashed it into a tree
- dumped it in the ocean
- drove it through a building
- droped a trailer on it
- hit it with a wrecking ball
- blew up a tall building with it ontop.
And the damn thing still drove away from it all!
They definately don't make them like that anymore.
LOL, the XRG and XRT are two seperate trim levels of the Mitsubishi Starion. People have known this for years.
I've seen the north american version of the car done up as a race car several times.
I've seen the north american version of the car done up as a race car several times.
A stock turbo will provide max rated boost right to redline.
0.8bar (11.6psi) is not stock for any car I know of. If that is being produced by a stock turbo it will not stay that high for the entire speed range of the engine.
My 6.5L turbo diesel runs at 9psi, it stays there from spool up all the way to redline. And the turbo is stock and reletively small. If I wanted more power I could raise the boost but it would drop off at higher RPMs.
I think the problem with the TBO cars is that the turbos are simulated as being high performance even on the stock cars, so they are able to maintain the boost at higher RPMs. So even though the car/engine is said to be stock, it realy isn't.
I think the boost on the XRT in particular should be dropped to 6.5psi which is the stock boost for the Mitsubishi Starion Turbo, the car it is based on.
0.8bar (11.6psi) is not stock for any car I know of. If that is being produced by a stock turbo it will not stay that high for the entire speed range of the engine.
My 6.5L turbo diesel runs at 9psi, it stays there from spool up all the way to redline. And the turbo is stock and reletively small. If I wanted more power I could raise the boost but it would drop off at higher RPMs.
I think the problem with the TBO cars is that the turbos are simulated as being high performance even on the stock cars, so they are able to maintain the boost at higher RPMs. So even though the car/engine is said to be stock, it realy isn't.
I think the boost on the XRT in particular should be dropped to 6.5psi which is the stock boost for the Mitsubishi Starion Turbo, the car it is based on.
The loss in power after redline is caused by a number of factors, that can be different for each car.
The first factor is valve timing, there isn't one value for this that will give optimum power at all speeds. If the valve timing is advanced it gives you more power at high RPMs and potentialy higher RPMs. Retard valve timing and the reverse happens, you get more power at lower RPMs. This is of course limmited by how far you can go in each direction before you cut into the clearance or hamper either end to the point the engine won't run outside of the optimum speed range.
The next factor is spark timing, its basicaly the same thing, go too far either way and it will hurt the engine and its performance. However I do have some first hand experiance on what advancing it can do.
I advanced the spark timing on my dirt bike by a small amount, just enough so that it had a very slight change in idle performance, but nothing realy bad. The bike has a basicaly flat power curve from 4k to 10.5k RPM with the stock configuration. Now it has a noticable increase in power and the power starts realy comming at around 5.5k. It's like a completely different bike. However it is still limmited to a 10.5k redline by the first and last factor.
The intake/exhaust system is the last factor in the power drop off after redline. For the most part it won't cause a complete stop in unloaded acceleration, but it will drop the power enough to slow or even stop the acceleration of the engine when loaded. Both intake and exhaust have a limmit to how much air they can flow through. Once they start to hit that limmit the resistance will become enough to actualy cause a power drop off as the engine starts to run out of air.
The first factor is valve timing, there isn't one value for this that will give optimum power at all speeds. If the valve timing is advanced it gives you more power at high RPMs and potentialy higher RPMs. Retard valve timing and the reverse happens, you get more power at lower RPMs. This is of course limmited by how far you can go in each direction before you cut into the clearance or hamper either end to the point the engine won't run outside of the optimum speed range.
The next factor is spark timing, its basicaly the same thing, go too far either way and it will hurt the engine and its performance. However I do have some first hand experiance on what advancing it can do.
I advanced the spark timing on my dirt bike by a small amount, just enough so that it had a very slight change in idle performance, but nothing realy bad. The bike has a basicaly flat power curve from 4k to 10.5k RPM with the stock configuration. Now it has a noticable increase in power and the power starts realy comming at around 5.5k. It's like a completely different bike. However it is still limmited to a 10.5k redline by the first and last factor.
The intake/exhaust system is the last factor in the power drop off after redline. For the most part it won't cause a complete stop in unloaded acceleration, but it will drop the power enough to slow or even stop the acceleration of the engine when loaded. Both intake and exhaust have a limmit to how much air they can flow through. Once they start to hit that limmit the resistance will become enough to actualy cause a power drop off as the engine starts to run out of air.
The 4A-GE 20 valve engine they placed in the car is one only supplied to Group A touring race teams. It has the TVIS (Toyota Variable Intake System) removed and individual runner throttle bodies. Forged internals and a whole whack of other modifications added. I haven't been able to find any information about the engine or its redline, but it apearantly does exist.
The stock engine in the 86 is actualy a 4A-GE 16 valve, and the Atlantic Championship engine is also a Modified 16 valve.
LOL, there's a suspension damage indicator? 
I had no idea there was damage indicators at all in LFS, now that I know I guess I will just have to start using them. Although I have been lucky to never have had to worry about damage before.
I had no idea there was damage indicators at all in LFS, now that I know I guess I will just have to start using them. Although I have been lucky to never have had to worry about damage before.
I watched the first three stages of this anime, I was going to finnish it but lost interest.
I saw a Corolla GT-S the other day and sketched this up out of bordem.
I'll probably finnish watching the anime later.
I saw a Corolla GT-S the other day and sketched this up out of bordem.
I'll probably finnish watching the anime later.
Wow, bunch of people calling eachother fanboys, its like I went back to grade school or something. 
@teedot.
Please don't talk like you know what computers I have used, simple thing is, you don't.
I've been using and even building and repairing computers since they hooked up to television sets. I'm talking early Commodore systems. Tapes are as old school as it gets. Hard drive? What hard drive?
Windows may not be the greatest, but for someone who wants to game, if they've been using windows for a long time, it will save them alot of trouble if they stick to the OS they know.
My experiance with Ubuntu was just a way of stating that going to Linux isn't going to be as trouble free as people make it sound, even if you know the OS decently well. There will always be problems with a computer that you are going to have to solve. Personaly, I haven't had a problem with Windows XP for nearly three years. NOT ONE.
However, I know how to optimize and bug proof Windows XP alot better than I do Linux. If it where the other way around I'm sure I would have found linux easier to use. The OP has one major dissadvantage, He hasn't used Linux before at all, so he is going to find it confusing and run into trouble. If he wants ease of use and easy gaming, at this point it would be better for him to stick with windows if that is what he has been using for a long time.
The exact same goes for Mac, I don't like Macs, but I won't say they are crap. I've used quite a fue Mac computers before, And I found that they can infact have just as many problems with inexperianced users. Every OS has one main potential problem, The Person using it.
If windows seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
If linux seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
If OSX seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
It's realy that simple. An OS will only be as good as the person using it.
@teedot.
Please don't talk like you know what computers I have used, simple thing is, you don't.
I've been using and even building and repairing computers since they hooked up to television sets. I'm talking early Commodore systems. Tapes are as old school as it gets. Hard drive? What hard drive?
Windows may not be the greatest, but for someone who wants to game, if they've been using windows for a long time, it will save them alot of trouble if they stick to the OS they know.
My experiance with Ubuntu was just a way of stating that going to Linux isn't going to be as trouble free as people make it sound, even if you know the OS decently well. There will always be problems with a computer that you are going to have to solve. Personaly, I haven't had a problem with Windows XP for nearly three years. NOT ONE.
However, I know how to optimize and bug proof Windows XP alot better than I do Linux. If it where the other way around I'm sure I would have found linux easier to use. The OP has one major dissadvantage, He hasn't used Linux before at all, so he is going to find it confusing and run into trouble. If he wants ease of use and easy gaming, at this point it would be better for him to stick with windows if that is what he has been using for a long time.
The exact same goes for Mac, I don't like Macs, but I won't say they are crap. I've used quite a fue Mac computers before, And I found that they can infact have just as many problems with inexperianced users. Every OS has one main potential problem, The Person using it.
If windows seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
If linux seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
If OSX seems like it sucks, YOU are doing something wrong.
It's realy that simple. An OS will only be as good as the person using it.
OMG its Initial T, 
LOL
I'm adding that to my favorites, and finding one of those bikes.
LOLI'm adding that to my favorites, and finding one of those bikes.
Everyone is all like "Ubuntu is user friendly! its linux that's easy to use!"
I've worked with Linux and various other Unix systems before and the first time (and last) I installed Ubuntu on my computer was an absolute nightmare. Compared to SUSE it was like a walk in the park vs. a NASA launch.
To get any of my programs to work I had to spend a day and a half downloading dependencies. On top of that it took the thing more than a day to install and finnish updating.
In the end I had downloaded a fue gigabytes of files and still didn't have everything working properly.
I haven't used anything but Windows for a long time now, so it could be different, but still. If you want to go linux, go the real deal. It might cost money, but at least it will work out of the box. If you have no experiance with linux you should probably stick with XP, gaming on linux can be tricky if not impossible for some games.
I've worked with Linux and various other Unix systems before and the first time (and last) I installed Ubuntu on my computer was an absolute nightmare. Compared to SUSE it was like a walk in the park vs. a NASA launch.
To get any of my programs to work I had to spend a day and a half downloading dependencies. On top of that it took the thing more than a day to install and finnish updating.
In the end I had downloaded a fue gigabytes of files and still didn't have everything working properly.
I haven't used anything but Windows for a long time now, so it could be different, but still. If you want to go linux, go the real deal. It might cost money, but at least it will work out of the box. If you have no experiance with linux you should probably stick with XP, gaming on linux can be tricky if not impossible for some games.
That is absolutely stunning. Unfortunately I don't have a stable graphics card to view the real thing. but watching the Youtube video was all I needed to see.
As graphics become more advanced, I always figured they'd find simpler ways to render. but 4k for an intro file? DAMN THATS CRAZY SMALL.
As graphics become more advanced, I always figured they'd find simpler ways to render. but 4k for an intro file? DAMN THATS CRAZY SMALL.
As everyone else has said, the lines are there to focus and redirect the light ahead in the pattern the designer wants.
However, the clear example you gave is a HID (High intensity discharge) headlamp. They are basicaly a projector style bulb with a balast and do not require a focusing lense because the light already leaves the bulb in a beam. The light around it is to compensate for the lack of short range lighting by the bulb, something only frosted lenses gives you.
My family's 6.5L turbo diesel van has ridged lenses and standard bulbs, but the lenses aren't frosted, this is so that the light will go as far as possible ahead of the vehicle, the unfortunate side effect is that the light doesn't scatter as much close by because of the lack of frosting on the lenses. I'm not sure why the designers did it this way, but we found a work around.
The ridging on the lenses is to scatter the light ahead, the frosting is to scatter the light closer to the vehicle so you can see more around the sides. Without one the light would be in too wide a beam farther out, without the other it would be too focused on the longer range and woulden't light up the area close to the front of the vehicle.
For this reason we have fog lamps set up for driving at night on unlit roads, this way we can use high beams with the unfrosted lenses to see far and use the fog lamps to light up more around the sides of the road. It basicaly light up the entire road so we can see everything. The lights go lowbeams/off when there are oncoming cars though, it would be crazy to run all that lighting in another drivers eyes.
However, the clear example you gave is a HID (High intensity discharge) headlamp. They are basicaly a projector style bulb with a balast and do not require a focusing lense because the light already leaves the bulb in a beam. The light around it is to compensate for the lack of short range lighting by the bulb, something only frosted lenses gives you.
My family's 6.5L turbo diesel van has ridged lenses and standard bulbs, but the lenses aren't frosted, this is so that the light will go as far as possible ahead of the vehicle, the unfortunate side effect is that the light doesn't scatter as much close by because of the lack of frosting on the lenses. I'm not sure why the designers did it this way, but we found a work around.
The ridging on the lenses is to scatter the light ahead, the frosting is to scatter the light closer to the vehicle so you can see more around the sides. Without one the light would be in too wide a beam farther out, without the other it would be too focused on the longer range and woulden't light up the area close to the front of the vehicle.
For this reason we have fog lamps set up for driving at night on unlit roads, this way we can use high beams with the unfrosted lenses to see far and use the fog lamps to light up more around the sides of the road. It basicaly light up the entire road so we can see everything. The lights go lowbeams/off when there are oncoming cars though, it would be crazy to run all that lighting in another drivers eyes.
I've actualy found that the FZ5 is the only car I have driven so far that realy seems to carry weight, like its actualy a car and is there. The LX4 and XRR are all fun, but they seem to lack something in feel. I can't quite place it though, I'm not sure what is different about it.
It could just be the fact that I've been driving the LX alot and have become used to the light weight, but I'm not completely sure.
In just about every GTR car video I have watched you hear the suspension bang, scrape, or otherwhise make an interesting noise.
I always thaught it would be cool if you could hear the car moving around you, in a race car you can hear just about everything. From the tyres on the road to the whine of the transmission and differential, suspension movement and brake squeal. Even the engine makes alot of different noises that people don't normaly hear in a road car.
Most people don't listen for these sounds, but will notice when they are missing. That is why LFS's sound engine doesn't sound right, because it is missing alot of these other sounds.
My old bike makes 5 destinct and seperate sounds just at idle. I can hear the timing chain, tappets, cam, exhaust and intake. all of them make a destinct sound I can hear. When one is off I can tell just by the sound. When I accelerate I can hear the exhaust and intake notes change but I can also hear the other sounds change accordingly. This is on a bike designed for racing so I would imagine it would be somewhat similar on a race car.
I always thaught it would be cool if you could hear the car moving around you, in a race car you can hear just about everything. From the tyres on the road to the whine of the transmission and differential, suspension movement and brake squeal. Even the engine makes alot of different noises that people don't normaly hear in a road car.
Most people don't listen for these sounds, but will notice when they are missing. That is why LFS's sound engine doesn't sound right, because it is missing alot of these other sounds.
My old bike makes 5 destinct and seperate sounds just at idle. I can hear the timing chain, tappets, cam, exhaust and intake. all of them make a destinct sound I can hear. When one is off I can tell just by the sound. When I accelerate I can hear the exhaust and intake notes change but I can also hear the other sounds change accordingly. This is on a bike designed for racing so I would imagine it would be somewhat similar on a race car.
Thats funny, I just started driving the FZ5 seriously, and my first track selection is always WE1.
When I first got my S2 I went straight for the LX4 at WE1. I love the caterham and the LX4 is a simply wonderfull car.
The answer as to why it would be harder than it seems to add a sound effect is that, as far as I know, the rumble through the FF is because the actual forces are transmitted from the wheels. So as the wheel bounces over the ripple strips, it actualy translates directly into wheel movement through the suspension/steering system of the vehicle.
There are no zones on the actual track, so its not like they could just say "ok, a tyre is here so it makes this noise, and triggers this FF effect" which is how most racing games actualy do it.
They would have to make it so that every bump and every suspension movement could potentialy make a noise. That would have to be based on forces and if the wheel actualy left the ground or not.
When it gets added, I would hope that it is done exactly like that, as it would be the most realistic way instead of just botching it and adding effects.
There are no zones on the actual track, so its not like they could just say "ok, a tyre is here so it makes this noise, and triggers this FF effect" which is how most racing games actualy do it.
They would have to make it so that every bump and every suspension movement could potentialy make a noise. That would have to be based on forces and if the wheel actualy left the ground or not.
When it gets added, I would hope that it is done exactly like that, as it would be the most realistic way instead of just botching it and adding effects.
I much prefer Insurgency: Modern Infantry Combat. Its a mod for Source, and it captures combat alot better than any of the CoD games, it's MP only though.
I played both CoD4 and World at War, neither of them where to my taste.
I liked the Hardcore game mode in CoD4 though, it was fairly realistic, one bullet kills you and such. But Insurgency does that alot better. And since Insurgency is only on PC you don't get alot of the Xbox kiddies with high gamer scores yelling at you when you kill them with a pistol.
This is the best way to describe how awsome Insurgency can be.
I played Insurgency with a group of actual soldiers a fue times, the tactics involved when these guys get into it is amazing. We where pinned down beside a gas station in baghdad, My commander told me to keep my head down and then he leaned out to check around the corner. He stepped out and we followed right accross the front windows of the store, with the gas pumps infront of us.
Suddenly a bullet whized past my head and took out the window, my commander got shot in the head and shoulder, and I went prone. I poped my head up in a crouched possition to see what was going on and an insurgent with an RPG7 took aim, I ducked and it went right over my head and into the window. The explosion shook everything and sent some random garbage items flying everywhere.
A fire fight broke out that lasted at least a fue minuts, I burned through six mags of ammunition just trying to keep the enemy's heads down. Since it doesn't tell you when you kill someone I don't actualy know how many I killed. I was stuck behind the front of a car untill reinforcements came and we where able to push them back.
That was one of the best experiances I have ever had in gaming.
I played both CoD4 and World at War, neither of them where to my taste.
I liked the Hardcore game mode in CoD4 though, it was fairly realistic, one bullet kills you and such. But Insurgency does that alot better. And since Insurgency is only on PC you don't get alot of the Xbox kiddies with high gamer scores yelling at you when you kill them with a pistol.
This is the best way to describe how awsome Insurgency can be.
I played Insurgency with a group of actual soldiers a fue times, the tactics involved when these guys get into it is amazing. We where pinned down beside a gas station in baghdad, My commander told me to keep my head down and then he leaned out to check around the corner. He stepped out and we followed right accross the front windows of the store, with the gas pumps infront of us.
Suddenly a bullet whized past my head and took out the window, my commander got shot in the head and shoulder, and I went prone. I poped my head up in a crouched possition to see what was going on and an insurgent with an RPG7 took aim, I ducked and it went right over my head and into the window. The explosion shook everything and sent some random garbage items flying everywhere.
A fire fight broke out that lasted at least a fue minuts, I burned through six mags of ammunition just trying to keep the enemy's heads down. Since it doesn't tell you when you kill someone I don't actualy know how many I killed. I was stuck behind the front of a car untill reinforcements came and we where able to push them back.
That was one of the best experiances I have ever had in gaming.
Just for the record, that is a problem with your graphics card reading the DDS format properly, for some strange reason it will scramble text.
On my old computer I had DDS support turned off by default in my ATI driver profile, every time I ran the game it would do that, I would have to set it to support DDS and then restart my computer a fue times before it would work.
I don't know if LFS uses DDS files for the text, I doubt it, but it appears to have some effect anyway.
On my old computer I had DDS support turned off by default in my ATI driver profile, every time I ran the game it would do that, I would have to set it to support DDS and then restart my computer a fue times before it would work.
I don't know if LFS uses DDS files for the text, I doubt it, but it appears to have some effect anyway.
scariest moment eh?
My scariest moment would be when my boat motor came off after a hard turn, I owned a short boat with a 6hp Murcury. Someone "borrowed" the motor and didn't tighten the mounts correctly. Since you actualy have to sit at the back to drive the boat I was right there with the damn thing when it decided to come off.
I pulled out of a hard turn and the momentum caused the motor to litteraly swing upside down around the mounts, ripping the control handel out of my hand. The motor actualy spun around on its top end on the lip of the boat and the prop swung right past my face as I turned around to see why the control pulled out of my hand.
I had the nose cone of the prop almost touch my nose!
I was both completely freaked out and baffled at how it happend. I didn't even have the reaction speed to catch the fuel line which was unraveling hollywood style at my feet. I was in shock, I sat in the motorless boat for a while before I finaly called someone over to tow me back to the dock.
I realy could have died.
Now I always check the mounts on the motor, and a year after the Mercury went down, we had a local diver pull it up for a cheap price.
I took the spark plugs out, drained it, cleaned the sludge out of the motor cap and put it all back together. I didn't even clean the carburator.
Three pulls and the blasted thing started. Murcury motors are crazy little devils, they take just about anything, even a year under water doesn't stop them from working.
My scariest moment would be when my boat motor came off after a hard turn, I owned a short boat with a 6hp Murcury. Someone "borrowed" the motor and didn't tighten the mounts correctly. Since you actualy have to sit at the back to drive the boat I was right there with the damn thing when it decided to come off.
I pulled out of a hard turn and the momentum caused the motor to litteraly swing upside down around the mounts, ripping the control handel out of my hand. The motor actualy spun around on its top end on the lip of the boat and the prop swung right past my face as I turned around to see why the control pulled out of my hand.
I had the nose cone of the prop almost touch my nose!
I was both completely freaked out and baffled at how it happend. I didn't even have the reaction speed to catch the fuel line which was unraveling hollywood style at my feet. I was in shock, I sat in the motorless boat for a while before I finaly called someone over to tow me back to the dock.
I realy could have died.
Now I always check the mounts on the motor, and a year after the Mercury went down, we had a local diver pull it up for a cheap price.
I took the spark plugs out, drained it, cleaned the sludge out of the motor cap and put it all back together. I didn't even clean the carburator.
Three pulls and the blasted thing started
. Murcury motors are crazy little devils, they take just about anything, even a year under water doesn't stop them from working.If he's snapped teeth off something he's going to need to completely take apart the bike's engine and transmission, its not worth it if the bike isn't a classic or vintage, it would just be better and cheaper to buy a new engine/transmission and be safe knowing nothing else is wrong. The amount of seals and gaskets he is going to need to buy is going to cost alot.
The reason I say that is simple, if teeth sheer off of a gear they ususaly end up going places they shoulden't. Its highly likely they damaged other gears and since it is a bike and the engine and transmission share lubrication, the little bits of gear could have damaged the engine itself as well.
If you are lucky, you will only need to replace a gear or two, chances are you will have to replace the main or counter shaft since some of the teeth are on those directly in most bike transmissions.
The reason I say that is simple, if teeth sheer off of a gear they ususaly end up going places they shoulden't. Its highly likely they damaged other gears and since it is a bike and the engine and transmission share lubrication, the little bits of gear could have damaged the engine itself as well.
If you are lucky, you will only need to replace a gear or two, chances are you will have to replace the main or counter shaft since some of the teeth are on those directly in most bike transmissions.
I find the "faster" drivers I have raced against are actualy quite horrible at handeling other cars around them.
It seems alot of people concentrate completely on going as fast as possible and completely ignore the other aspects of racing technique.
I deliberately go slower alot of the time because I know that a good percentage of the time the "faster" drivers will either fail due to overdriving thier setup or knock eachother out of the race. I have won a fue races this way, with nothing but concistency.
It is different with leauge races I would assume. And definately different for alot of the drivers who take competetive racing seriously. I just have yet to see either. I would hope that if I where to race someone who can handel a position battle that I would be able to give them a good fight.
It seems alot of people concentrate completely on going as fast as possible and completely ignore the other aspects of racing technique.
I deliberately go slower alot of the time because I know that a good percentage of the time the "faster" drivers will either fail due to overdriving thier setup or knock eachother out of the race. I have won a fue races this way, with nothing but concistency.
It is different with leauge races I would assume. And definately different for alot of the drivers who take competetive racing seriously. I just have yet to see either. I would hope that if I where to race someone who can handel a position battle that I would be able to give them a good fight.
I think holding the shift up or shift down buttons should only count as a monentary press, and then the signal stops.
So basicaly, if you hold the button, it only counts for the instant you pressed it and no more. this way, holding the shift button and then clutching will not actualy shift.
For H-gate sim shifters the current behaviour will be mantained because that is how they function.
So basicaly, if you hold the button, it only counts for the instant you pressed it and no more. this way, holding the shift button and then clutching will not actualy shift.
For H-gate sim shifters the current behaviour will be mantained because that is how they function.
Like I said, the heat vs grip level seems to be somewhat correct, overheat a tyre and it performs like driving on ice. I have overheated tyres before in real life and that is how they act.
How the tyres get to overheated is the problem, And I'm glad people have finaly started to come around to that conclusion.
The temps of a tyre in LFS seem to be completely derived from friction, exept maybe for the sidewalls. where as in reality, most of the heat comes from within the tyre itself, as the rubber bends and flexes it generates heat, so unless you do a burnout, the surface temps should be somewhat lower than core temps. Its like bending a metal rod, if you have ever done it you will notice that the rod heats up where it is being bent. This is due to friction between the molecules of the material.
Tyres heat up mostly on a molecular level, friction heats the surface, but flexing and bending heats the core and sidewalls alot more.
This is why you will often see transport truck tyres blow out on the highway if they are slightly underinflated. Most people think it is due to friction, where in reality it is due to the tyre flexing to much because of the load.
This is another thing that is different in LFS than real life, the tyre pressures have an effect on tyre heating, but I don't think it is completely for the right reason. This puzzled me at one point, I had the sidewalls overheating on the XRR, I thaught I could fix it by increasing tyre pressure, but it didn't work. Now I belive I know why.
How the tyres get to overheated is the problem, And I'm glad people have finaly started to come around to that conclusion.
The temps of a tyre in LFS seem to be completely derived from friction, exept maybe for the sidewalls. where as in reality, most of the heat comes from within the tyre itself, as the rubber bends and flexes it generates heat, so unless you do a burnout, the surface temps should be somewhat lower than core temps. Its like bending a metal rod, if you have ever done it you will notice that the rod heats up where it is being bent. This is due to friction between the molecules of the material.
Tyres heat up mostly on a molecular level, friction heats the surface, but flexing and bending heats the core and sidewalls alot more.
This is why you will often see transport truck tyres blow out on the highway if they are slightly underinflated. Most people think it is due to friction, where in reality it is due to the tyre flexing to much because of the load.
This is another thing that is different in LFS than real life, the tyre pressures have an effect on tyre heating, but I don't think it is completely for the right reason. This puzzled me at one point, I had the sidewalls overheating on the XRR, I thaught I could fix it by increasing tyre pressure, but it didn't work. Now I belive I know why.
wow, every song I used to listen alot to is posted here and then some.
I used to listen to these tunes and alot of old rock, I still listen to old rock alot, but I never remembered the other songs names or artists so I haven't heard any of them in a long time.
This thread definatley brings back memories of riding around in my aunt's old station wagon with wood panneling and turning the bass up. Those where the fun days.
I used to listen to these tunes and alot of old rock, I still listen to old rock alot, but I never remembered the other songs names or artists so I haven't heard any of them in a long time.
This thread definatley brings back memories of riding around in my aunt's old station wagon with wood panneling and turning the bass up. Those where the fun days.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG