your name suits you very nicely.
That was a record setting hotlap, so It actualy was realy fast.
In TOCA race driver 2 they had Racing trucks, it was actualy realy fun. It was the only racing in that game that actualy felt even semi-realistic.
I love any type of racing, so I watch just about any racing series.
I love any type of racing, so I watch just about any racing series.
Good stuff!
The editing was good, the driving was good, the music fit. Totaly awsome.
The editing was good, the driving was good, the music fit. Totaly awsome.
The default setups for the LX4 arn't very good, they aren't leveled properly and the ride hight is too low on one end. The dampers and springs are a bit off as well.
For cars without downforce you want to get the lower suspension arm as level to the ground as possible, this will give you the highest mechanical grip. On cars with downforce you want the suspension to be as level to the ground as possible durring full downforce.
Don't forget to have the driver and fuel in when you do this, sitting slightly higher than level as fuel burns is better than slightly lower to start.
The attached setup is the one I use as a base set for all of my LX4 setups, this one works realy well on all tracks, but isn't optimized for one in particular. That you will have to do on your own since I haven't finnished any track specific sets for this car yet.
For cars without downforce you want to get the lower suspension arm as level to the ground as possible, this will give you the highest mechanical grip. On cars with downforce you want the suspension to be as level to the ground as possible durring full downforce.
Don't forget to have the driver and fuel in when you do this, sitting slightly higher than level as fuel burns is better than slightly lower to start.
The attached setup is the one I use as a base set for all of my LX4 setups, this one works realy well on all tracks, but isn't optimized for one in particular. That you will have to do on your own since I haven't finnished any track specific sets for this car yet.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
When I was on demo I had a set like that for the XRT. (old demo)
I would powerslide out of a corner with the wheel centered, and sometimes I didn't even need to counter at all. Unfortunately I lost all my old setups when I formated my computer, and when I moved to S2 I didn't realy think about the XRT any more.
I'm an LX4 junkie and I've been working on a set for it to get that kind of behaviour, for some reason I just can't seem to get it to kick out mid corner though.
As for WR settups, I find alot of them seem to handel realy oddly, and I woulden't use them as a basis for race setups. The settings for those are not for repeatability, they are made for a one off lap time and that is all.
That is wild, I can't see that ever happening in real life, but if it did it would be some kind of lucky break for the driver.
I'm running a saphhire Radeon HD2600 AGP Pro 512mb, Its in a 3.2ghz P4HT rig with 2gb of ram.
I can run everything high with 8xAA and 8xAF and never go below 60fps, this is with high res textures and a resolution of 1280x1024. I can go up to a higher resolution and it will only drop below 60fps with a full grid.
I never run LFS on high settings though, I'm not a graphics junkie.
I can run everything high with 8xAA and 8xAF and never go below 60fps, this is with high res textures and a resolution of 1280x1024. I can go up to a higher resolution and it will only drop below 60fps with a full grid.
I never run LFS on high settings though, I'm not a graphics junkie.
When driving never put any of your fingers or your hand anywhere else than on the outside of the wheel, on the rim. If you are expecting the wheel to bounce or turn hard in one direction move your thumbs from around the back of the rim, place them along the rim twards the top so they are not locked through it. People have broken thier thumbs before, the DFGT isn't strong enough to do it, but this is good to do anyway as it builds the habbit for driving in real life. I have heard of the G25 breaking someones thumb before though.
Also, try not to steer out to much, the wheel is going to want to go in the direction of the slide, let it go untill the wheels are facing the center of where you want to go, so if you are sliding through the apex of a turn the wheels should point to the apex and no farther. never let the car completely castor steer itself.
When exiting a drift, you want to wind the wheel out against it's own castor steer, meaning you want to start winding the wheel out as the car comes out of the drift, if you wait to long the car will swing into an uncontrollable slide in the other direction.
There are a number of advanced driving techniques that you should also practice and learn, such as the J-turn. These are very useful in learning the dynamics of a car and learning to control it effectively.
The first thing I did when I started playing LFS was go to the carpark and familiarize myself with doing all of those advanced driving techniques in LFS.
Also, try not to steer out to much, the wheel is going to want to go in the direction of the slide, let it go untill the wheels are facing the center of where you want to go, so if you are sliding through the apex of a turn the wheels should point to the apex and no farther. never let the car completely castor steer itself.
When exiting a drift, you want to wind the wheel out against it's own castor steer, meaning you want to start winding the wheel out as the car comes out of the drift, if you wait to long the car will swing into an uncontrollable slide in the other direction.
There are a number of advanced driving techniques that you should also practice and learn, such as the J-turn. These are very useful in learning the dynamics of a car and learning to control it effectively.
The first thing I did when I started playing LFS was go to the carpark and familiarize myself with doing all of those advanced driving techniques in LFS.
Even if you get the 5 volts from the USB you are going to need a controller board to get the light to switch on and off, its not as simple as connecting wires to a USB port.
I woulden't be connecting wires to the USB bus if I where you, you could fry something if you send voltage down the wrong line. Most likely you would ruin the USB controler, but worst case you could kill the computer.
I woulden't be connecting wires to the USB bus if I where you, you could fry something if you send voltage down the wrong line. Most likely you would ruin the USB controler, but worst case you could kill the computer.
The tool boxes where I used to work where that big, rolled one past a car and it was above the roof like that.
It looks tall, but put the marshal beside it, and if he is correctly sized to the cars it will look about right.
It looks tall, but put the marshal beside it, and if he is correctly sized to the cars it will look about right.
I realy think thats just the sissy's way out.
That driver could just as easily press the pedal himself.
That driver could just as easily press the pedal himself.
F1 tires are specialy designed for the job they do. The shape of the tire allows for all of the design variables to be very open ended, they have alot of room to play with the stiffness and the shoulder construction of the tire.
They can make a tire that has a stiff shoulder but loose sidewalls so that it has less give but still has alot of flex on cornering, or they can make it the other way so it has little flex on cornering but alot of give. Any area inbetween can be achived meaning a much wider range of handeling characteristics can be created.
I'm not sure how much these variables change from one tire company to the next, or from one type of tire to the next. But I'm sure there is a reason behind it. And the only reason I can see is that it gives F1 tires much more flexibility in design than lower profile tires would have.
They can make a tire that has a stiff shoulder but loose sidewalls so that it has less give but still has alot of flex on cornering, or they can make it the other way so it has little flex on cornering but alot of give. Any area inbetween can be achived meaning a much wider range of handeling characteristics can be created.
I'm not sure how much these variables change from one tire company to the next, or from one type of tire to the next. But I'm sure there is a reason behind it. And the only reason I can see is that it gives F1 tires much more flexibility in design than lower profile tires would have.
What you want is stiff springs, low damping and high rebound settings.
You want to transfer as much of the force on the springs as you can on impact, but you want it to rebound slowly. Also keep the suspension as high as possible as well.
If you watch offroad trucks or rally cars, they come down quick, but don't bounce back up. You want as much of the force to be absorbed by the springs as possible, but you don't want them to rebound hard.
You want to transfer as much of the force on the springs as you can on impact, but you want it to rebound slowly. Also keep the suspension as high as possible as well.
If you watch offroad trucks or rally cars, they come down quick, but don't bounce back up. You want as much of the force to be absorbed by the springs as possible, but you don't want them to rebound hard.
25% aspect ratios are available, but it would be crazy to put that on anything under 345 width, even then that seems too low. Theres high performance and then theres low profile, alot of people don't know where that line is.
Formula 1 tires are 270/55 front and 325/45 rear because at those widths the profile allows for the sidewall flex they want. The tires are also constructed to give the stiffness they want. It is infact designed to do the job a specific way.
On tin tops the tires are less standardized, the choice of tires is different, and alot of the tires you see on them can be bought for your own car provided you want to pay the price.
Generaly I keep a rule for high performance road tires. The sidewall should be kept at least 3 inches high. I haven't seen one high performance or race car with sidewalls lower than that. Going lower than 3 inches means that the sidewall has to be less stiff to compensate or the tire becomes too sensitive and breaks loose to easily.
The size of the wheel that the tire is on will realy change how it looks and often times can make a lower profile look high or a higher profile look low. 305/30ZR19s look low profile, but they arn't realy that low, they actualy have 3.6 inch sidewalls.
Formula 1 tires are 270/55 front and 325/45 rear because at those widths the profile allows for the sidewall flex they want. The tires are also constructed to give the stiffness they want. It is infact designed to do the job a specific way.
On tin tops the tires are less standardized, the choice of tires is different, and alot of the tires you see on them can be bought for your own car provided you want to pay the price.
Generaly I keep a rule for high performance road tires. The sidewall should be kept at least 3 inches high. I haven't seen one high performance or race car with sidewalls lower than that. Going lower than 3 inches means that the sidewall has to be less stiff to compensate or the tire becomes too sensitive and breaks loose to easily.
The size of the wheel that the tire is on will realy change how it looks and often times can make a lower profile look high or a higher profile look low. 305/30ZR19s look low profile, but they arn't realy that low, they actualy have 3.6 inch sidewalls.
I actualy tried using this on the RAC, it works pretty well. But I've only realy used it so far to prevent the car from spinning out on the oval.
Ususaly if you loose the rear end completely on the oval its lap over for you, but if you wash out the front wheels by steering all the way in, it actual causes the rear end to fall back into place.
A simple explination for this is that once the fronts wash out, the rears will regain grip and the braking effort caused by the engine alone will pull the rear back.
I can't see using this agressively in a race though, it would probably be too risky on a wheel with more than 300° lock. I've done it with 720 but you have to realy wrench the wheel around and its probably not a good idea.
Small amounts to scrub off speed and heat up the tires might be useful though.
Ususaly if you loose the rear end completely on the oval its lap over for you, but if you wash out the front wheels by steering all the way in, it actual causes the rear end to fall back into place.
A simple explination for this is that once the fronts wash out, the rears will regain grip and the braking effort caused by the engine alone will pull the rear back.
I can't see using this agressively in a race though, it would probably be too risky on a wheel with more than 300° lock. I've done it with 720 but you have to realy wrench the wheel around and its probably not a good idea.
Small amounts to scrub off speed and heat up the tires might be useful though.
Thats realy odd, I've had mine for 3 months now and it hasn't done that, and I haven't been very easy on the brake pedal either.
Eventualy I'm going to build my own pedals, but for now the DFGT pedals seem to be as well constructed as my old sidewinder pedals are. I'm even running them side by side as a clutch and footrest.
Eventualy I'm going to build my own pedals, but for now the DFGT pedals seem to be as well constructed as my old sidewinder pedals are. I'm even running them side by side as a clutch and footrest.
I never said the car would fall, infact I'm pretty sure it could do it since I've seen people ride bikes around a round pool completely sideways without falling.
But a 90° bank would never be seen on a realistic race track.
I think inline hybrids are more likely. not the hybrids we have now, but ones where the engine never drives the vehicle.
Trains have been running inline hybrid systems for years, you get a diesel engine to run a generator and have traction motors drive the wheels. There isn't one train that runs the wheels from the diesel motor, it would require a retardedly large torque converter or a clutch that would last probably one stop and go.
The best way to make the transition from gas to electic technology is to go with an inline hybrid. A reletively small engine runs a generator, like a v-twin or something small like that, and the power comes from the generator, gets stored in a small bank of batteries and runs the motors.
Imagine a car that produces 200hp from electric motors and never needs to be pluged in, as long as you have fuel in the tank you can go. The tank doesn't need to be nearly as big as on a gas only vehicle, and with regenerative braking you can fly around the city on very little fuel.
Trains have been running inline hybrid systems for years, you get a diesel engine to run a generator and have traction motors drive the wheels. There isn't one train that runs the wheels from the diesel motor, it would require a retardedly large torque converter or a clutch that would last probably one stop and go.
The best way to make the transition from gas to electic technology is to go with an inline hybrid. A reletively small engine runs a generator, like a v-twin or something small like that, and the power comes from the generator, gets stored in a small bank of batteries and runs the motors.
Imagine a car that produces 200hp from electric motors and never needs to be pluged in, as long as you have fuel in the tank you can go. The tank doesn't need to be nearly as big as on a gas only vehicle, and with regenerative braking you can fly around the city on very little fuel.
lol, I've noticed alot of people saying "...and the engine will go boom" haven't you?
It seems people think everything makes a car's engine go boom these days.
As far as north american ford being crap, probably now, but before 1998, nope, best damn vehicles my family ever owned.
The last good vehicle my family owned was a 1996 ford E-150 extended. It was my Dads work truck. Damn thing was a tank, it even sounded like one on the highway. The little I got to drive it before it was scrapped, it was like driving a much bigger car, handeled pretty decently for a van. Definately not great handeling though.
After the very little repairs and work that it took to keep that truck going I was realy sad to see it go to the scrappers. The only thing that killed it was getting sideswiped by a driver that fell asleep at the wheel, he took out the side doors with his SUV, funny enough, the SUV wasn't drivable afterward, but the van was. The insurance wrote the van off because of age.
Now we own a POS chevy express 3500. The only nice part about it is the 6.5l turbo diesel, the electronics that control it suck, the differental sucks (who puts an open dif on a truck!?), the whole van sucks. Its already cost us nearly $10000 in repairs, and we've only had it for about four years.
Would have been better using the $16000 it cost (used) at the dealer to repair the ford, rebuilt engine and all.
The last good vehicle my family owned was a 1996 ford E-150 extended. It was my Dads work truck. Damn thing was a tank, it even sounded like one on the highway. The little I got to drive it before it was scrapped, it was like driving a much bigger car, handeled pretty decently for a van. Definately not great handeling though.
After the very little repairs and work that it took to keep that truck going I was realy sad to see it go to the scrappers. The only thing that killed it was getting sideswiped by a driver that fell asleep at the wheel, he took out the side doors with his SUV, funny enough, the SUV wasn't drivable afterward, but the van was. The insurance wrote the van off because of age.
Now we own a POS chevy express 3500. The only nice part about it is the 6.5l turbo diesel, the electronics that control it suck, the differental sucks (who puts an open dif on a truck!?), the whole van sucks. Its already cost us nearly $10000 in repairs, and we've only had it for about four years.
Would have been better using the $16000 it cost (used) at the dealer to repair the ford, rebuilt engine and all.
I got a DFGT and Its actualy realy nice, logitech took what they learned from the G25 and applied it to this wheel, its a tried and tested design.
I would take the DFGT over a fanatec, simply because it is easier to warantee, and then get a good pedal and shifter set. Or if you realy want, you can still get a leo bodnar controller board and build your own shifter and pedals, you can even include a handbrake and a whole buch of extra buttons and dials that way.
Thats the route I'm taking, I got a DFGT and I'm building my own hardware set to compliment it, shifter, pedals and button box. I may add a handbrake if only to say I have one
Edit: just realized you have a link to the bodnar FFB board, I thaught he abandoned that project because of API issues.
I would take the DFGT over a fanatec, simply because it is easier to warantee, and then get a good pedal and shifter set. Or if you realy want, you can still get a leo bodnar controller board and build your own shifter and pedals, you can even include a handbrake and a whole buch of extra buttons and dials that way.
Thats the route I'm taking, I got a DFGT and I'm building my own hardware set to compliment it, shifter, pedals and button box. I may add a handbrake if only to say I have one
Edit: just realized you have a link to the bodnar FFB board, I thaught he abandoned that project because of API issues.
Real race car drivers sometimes heel-toe, watch austrailian V8 supercars on youtube, they have alot of foot cam videos of it. About 4 out of 5 will show heel-toe footwork. And just about every other race car foot cam video on youtube will as well. I looked at alot of these videos when I was learning the footwork.
However, V8 supercars also have ignition cut for upshifting, its done with a microswitch on the shifter that allows the driver to cut ignition while he changes gears with the H-pattern shifter. So they generaly don't have to lift while changing up. Some drivers don't use the clutch at all and brake with thier left foot, but I have only seen this in a video once.
In a sequential box there isn't a neutral state between gears, it just switches to the next as it dissengages the last. Heel-toe on a sequential requires you to have the clutch in while you blip, if you do. And there is no way to double clutch on a sequential.
Old F1 in the 60's had H-pattern gearboxes and they also used heel-toe back then.
As far as rev-matching and lifting off on a sequential.
Generaly, if the car doesn't do it for you, it's ok to do it for the car. I prefer doing it myself because it gives me the control of when and if I do it. Sometimes it can be useful to not rev-match, and if you know the car well enough you don't need to use the clutch all the time.
It's all about knowing the car and what you need to do and when. I don't rev match in the FBM, because it isn't critical to do so, and in the BF1 most of the time you realy dont have time unless you have a bionic foot. But in the XRR it can help keep the car balanced if you are running lower downforce settings.
However, V8 supercars also have ignition cut for upshifting, its done with a microswitch on the shifter that allows the driver to cut ignition while he changes gears with the H-pattern shifter. So they generaly don't have to lift while changing up. Some drivers don't use the clutch at all and brake with thier left foot, but I have only seen this in a video once.
In a sequential box there isn't a neutral state between gears, it just switches to the next as it dissengages the last. Heel-toe on a sequential requires you to have the clutch in while you blip, if you do. And there is no way to double clutch on a sequential.
Old F1 in the 60's had H-pattern gearboxes and they also used heel-toe back then.
As far as rev-matching and lifting off on a sequential.
Generaly, if the car doesn't do it for you, it's ok to do it for the car. I prefer doing it myself because it gives me the control of when and if I do it. Sometimes it can be useful to not rev-match, and if you know the car well enough you don't need to use the clutch all the time.
It's all about knowing the car and what you need to do and when. I don't rev match in the FBM, because it isn't critical to do so, and in the BF1 most of the time you realy dont have time unless you have a bionic foot. But in the XRR it can help keep the car balanced if you are running lower downforce settings.
I realy hope by 90º you mean the corner travels 90º and is banked, not banked at 90º.
I think the craziest track in LFS would be one with a huge banked section like the 1960's monza. I was watching Grand Prix (1966) the other day and I was like wow, that would be crazy in a modern F1. I've always loved that movie, and I've always wanted to drive on the old monza track.
I think the craziest track in LFS would be one with a huge banked section like the 1960's monza. I was watching Grand Prix (1966) the other day and I was like wow, that would be crazy in a modern F1. I've always loved that movie, and I've always wanted to drive on the old monza track.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG