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DragonCommando
S2 licensed
you want mip maps on the car skins?

that would lower the resolution at distance and achive the total opposite of what you want.

Mip maps are basicaly lower resolutions of the same texture so that as a 3d object gets farther away you can use less power to render it's surface. Mip maps are generaly in sets that have each level down one quarter of the last size. so a 2048x2048 skin would be 2048x2048, 1024x1024, ect. untill you get to the end of the set, which is from memory usualy 4 or 8 levels including original size.

In some cases it would make the texture appear clearer because of interpolation and the fact that mip maps are already somewhat anti-aliased, but only at ranges where the mip map is displayed instead of the full texture. At screenshot range it would still look the same or be fuzzy, depending on the mip distance.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
After being part of a programing team for writing a 4D maze at school I can say I have alot of respect for programers. We worked on a maze that worked in 3 dimensions and also had multiple mazes interlinked. (hence 4D)
Everything was done in Turbo Pascal, which runs on computers with less processing power than modern cell phones.

I was in charge of the user interface, and it took me a week to write something that drew a very simple ASCII interface with arrows for direction, a compas, and lines for borders.

Something that seems simple when you see the finnished product, but requires some pretty complex code to work with the actual maze generator/display.

The generator and display portion was worked on completely by our lead programer, it took him 2 weeks and at least a thousand lines of code, probably alot more. It was mind blowing to see the source, and realize that someone actualy wrote it.

For a one man show LFS is one hell of an accomplishment, and if anyone says any different I challenge them to try coding a sim on their own.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
EVs arn't silent at all, I realy don't know where people get that idea.

Most EV motors run through at least a step down box, which has gears in it, and thus makes a whining noise when you accelerate, decelerate, and even while cruising.

It may not be as loud as an IC powered car, but some IC powered cars are very quite these days. silent enough that I only hear the tires on alot of cars that go by my house.

If sound is realy an issue, just put straight cut gears in the stepdown boxes. then you'd hear them comming.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
It apears to me that F1 has gone full circle in that respect, in the 60s the suspension did most of the work, then later on it was the tires that acted as most of the spring, now they are heading back to the suspension.

I realy don't think F1 will ever go to low(er) profile tires, the design of the cars would have to change alot, I don't think they are going to go that route.
F1 tires are so well engineered and established it would be pointless to change the design and have to start from scratch. It's not like they could just bolt on a set from a GT car and go.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
The tires on the Corvette C6 in the FIA GT Championship are P275/35ZR18 on the front, and P325/30ZR19 on the rear. 3.8 inches of sidewall is what I would consider a good sidewall. (I have a tire size calculator and tire application chart)
Its actualy higher than what you see on alot of riced up cars seen on the streets. (less than 3 inches of sidewall)

In the picture it looks to me like the tires almost the same, even if the GTRs in LFS have 4 inch sidewalls it's still good enough to keep sidewall flex within the proper range.

I was told by a tire dealer that the range that you will find most high performance tires in will be 3-4 inches of sidewall. If you go above, the tire may be too flexible, if you go below, it may be too stiff. If he's right or not I don't know, but my tire chart doesn't show any real high performance tires below or above that range, only stuff made to sell to ricers. (an example of something made to sell to ricers would be a 225/30R17, at 2.7 inches of sidewall) Ricers seem to think that the closer the rim is to the ground the faster the car will go.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
I thaught they would flex alot less untill recently. But after looking into it and actualy handeling a tire with 30 sidewalls (305/30 R19), they are actualy a bit thinner and almost as loose as a tire with a 45 sidewall.
They flex almost as much.

I'd imagine that running any tires at less than 25psi would be quite harmful to the sidewalls. I've seen the inside of a tire that was run under inflated many times, the whole inside of the tire always turns into little flakes.
Haven't ever handeled full on racing tires, so I woulden't know about them, but I'd imagine you can't go much lower.

It's odd you didn't find tires at 225/40 R17, you get a nice set of racing tires when you punch that into tire rack, you don't get any road car tires though, if thats what you meant.
You can go as low as 35 on tire rack and get a rediculous set of summer road tires at 225/35R17, 3.1 inches of sidewall is mental.


Edit: I can't see the XRT needing any size bigger than it's already got.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
The only thing LFS needs to look more realistic is photo-realistic like textures and some color correction. Other than that, everything else will just be eye candy that you don't see in real life unless you look at the world through a camera all the time.

I had LFS lookeing very realistic at one point, but I forgot to save the files when I formated. It looked so realistic my mother actualy thaught I was watching a race on the internet.

If the graphics looked like NFS 2 then I'd say upgrade, but they are on par with most other sims right now. Games can have amazing graphics because most of the variables that make the cars react the way they do are already calculated, LFS calculates just about everything on the fly, so it takes alot more power to do.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
It sounds like an infinite loop error by the way you describe it, where it plays one sound in a loop and then just reboots.

People have blamed everything from bad PSUs to ram not being seated properly, but there are so many factors that if you have that issue, you might as well leave it alone and not play LFS on that computer. Because if you start messing with things to get rid of the infinite loop, you are likely to make it effect other games as well that where not effected before.

I researched that error for months, tried every fix, includeing handycaping my computer to PCI graphics (not PCI-E, just PCI) and nothing people said would work helped.

It only effected a fue games before I tried to fix it, then it started effecting more. I reformated my computer and it still effects a very large portion of my game library. I can't play LFS, HL2, absolutely no simbin products work ( no real loss there), but anything on the orange box engine works exept for TF2 for some reason.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
If you know how to access event viewer, (most newer drivers for graphics cards have a link in the tray icon) Look in system, and look for errors.

If you get an error that says something like "the device driver for device/display device 0 got stuck in an infinite loop" Then you have a serious conflict somewhere in your hardware or drivers. I get this EVERY time I play LFS on my new computer, it just crashes and restarts itself.

I have spent hours trying to fix it, but in most cases I have read about it requires swaping hardware out or handycaping your computer some how to make it go away.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Quote from Jamexing :Oh sorry, I had no idea that people who can't even understand servo control (which is relevant from everything such as control by wire to too many to mention) is smarter than me.

Oh dear. Next thing I know everyone INSISTS that someone who fails algebra is smarter than me.

I had no idea that views that are based on physical/mathematical understanding, practical experience and serious thought are actually unusual. Next thing I know, to oppose racism is abnormal. Oh dear.

No you don't need to have an automotive eng degree to know cars. just lots of understanding of engineering theory, practical experience and lots of learning from reputable sources (such as SAE, IEEE, etc.). Simply working as an engineer these days might mean diddly squat, since anyone can be a monkey working for a small number of engineers that actually know what they're doing. In RL engineering practice, there are all sorts of people like every other field. There are some that take credit for other's work, others that DO work but are nothing more than grunts and there are those who REALLY know and work their stuff but still end up with jack s**t. Only a TINY number of people actually get what they really deserve, and that's life.

What I find so shocking these days is that people aren't really that good (if any good) at what they're supposed to specialize in at all. And to be told that I am of inferior intellect because I actually bother to think about, investigate, learn and understand stuff to what some my say are hardcore levels of depth? Insanity.

WOW, get over it man.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Quote from ajp71 :So he's got no choice but to use control tires... you really enjoy discrediting yourself at any opportunity. You've just about managed to salvage your way out of looking like an idiot, yes the tire sizes your suggesting are now appropriate so long as your using proper competition tires but they're a long way off what you started bullshitting on about a page ago

I still hold to my opinion that if you use narrow wheels you still need 55 sidewalls or higher, so I was not bullshiting.
My widths where off though, I'll admit that. I actualy had to look at a 305 and a fue different sizes today to sort out whats what.
If you use narrow tires like 205 you can use 50 sidewalls because the ratio will give you a lower profile anyway.

I had to correct myself about the mustang, I apologize, but just think about it. If those tires where not up to par would the class alow them? He curtainly isn't spinning his wheels all the way around the track with 270hp.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Quote from squidhead :for a track day car... right....with rwd and 400 bhp... cool....

I have driven a e36 with a mere 1.8 twincam with 225 tires at the back, and you know what? wheelspin... get the idea? 140 bhp somewhat 10 years ago... wheels... spinning, not enough grip

and you suggest that extra 10 mm will do wonders and let a 400 bhp turbocharged track monster grip into the asphalt like mad...

(btw, your friend's 5.0 mustang develops a bit over 17 bhp, and over 1500 nm of torque at 250 rpm, so no wonder he's doing fine (not exactly correct data, but you get the idea of why your friend uses those)

He's not going to need 400HP for a weekend track day car, and everyone already told him that.
This is especialy true if he hasn't raced alot before.

And the Mustang I mentioned is in a spec class, If you want to put down 400HP then get 215/45 R17 fronts and 275/40 R16 rears
If you want the same diameter rims front and back then go with 275/35 R17.

If he wants to get realy wide tires (285-305) he needs to chop the wheel wells and modify the rear suspension because 305 wont fit on a stock 240. I'm not sure 275 even will.

If you can't get 140hp to the ground with 225 tires, you need to practice your launches. any car can spin the wheels if you don't lauch correctly, and anything above 225 on a 140hp car is overkill.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Did you look at the tires I suggested? It says sportsman S/R.
what do you think the S/R stands for? STREET RADIAL.

I suggested those tires yesterday as well, but you obviously didn't see it.

as for the comments about drag racing, I wasn't saying thats what he was going to do. I didn't say all that much about it exept for when ajp made a comment about the tires being drag tires.
I gave examples of 2 setups, 1 for drag and 1 for circuit racing.

On a Road racing car that he's going to drive to the track you need something thats going to perform well at all times.

so again 205/45 R17 fronts and 235/40 R17 rears will do fine.
Those are what my friends Mustang 5L is riding on, and its built for racing. Its not even road legal.
And thats circuit racing, not drag.

I don't know what you people consider low profile, but 45 isn't realy here. And most racing tires come between 40-45 unless they are larger than 275 in which case they can go to as low as 30
but thats on 305s
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
I'm not linking to Drag tires, those are street performance tires, the drag tires are in a different section.
If he wants to race on the road/circuit those are a good choice.

And they are only one example of tires designed for what he wants.

They don't have a high profile, you can get them with 40 side walls with the standard widths that will fit in most stock wheel wells.
But they arn't retardedly low either, like these http://www.customwheelsdirect. ... s/Dodge_Charger_Logo2.jpg When people say low profile, that is my definiton of low profile.

I've been saying it all along. Those are the wheels I'm talking about, with retarded side walls, proper high performance tires that fit on standard rim sizes will have no less than 40 sidewalls.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Quote from squidhead :whoa whoa whoa... just admit incompetence, don't make yourself look like a complete fool

WTF are you talking about?

In the US there are alot more drag strips around than circuit tracks, and the OP is in the US.

The US is also where you can go to a "performance shop" and get 20 inch rims with retardedly low side walls for the width of the tire,
like 205/35 R20.

I've just been trying to make the point that its better to get a 235/40 R16 wheel than a 235/35 R17 wheel.
Because all "high performance" tires sold in "performance shops" are just low profile to sell, they arn't going to handel like something you'd buy from a brand like Mickey Thomson.

Like these: http://www.mickeythompsontires ... reet.php?item=SportsmanSR as just one example

and if you want to go crazy you could get 275/35 R17 wheels, but the side walls arn't going to be all that low because of how wide the tire is. I woulden't recommend tires that wide on a street car though.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
There are alot more drag strips around than circuit tracks. I figured he'd want to do both drag and circuit, in which case he'd need to know what tires to use for each.

I was simply stating that if he wants to drag race he needs high profile drag tires, and if he wants to road race, going to 40 profile tires would be too much for a car he will drive on the street. It will kill the ride.

unless he has the budget to buy 2 sets of wheels. then swap out when he gets to the track. Then he could get some proper racing tires and still keep the same ride quality on the road. Provided he made the proper suspension adjustments.

If you would just take the time to read what I said about that car you keep mentioning, I didn't say put high profile tires on it. I said put on high performance racing tires instead of the road legal tires.

The only racing tires I've found that go below 40 are tires that fit on rims that take tires above 255. but thats because a 275 tire with a 40 sidewall would be very tall.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
I might have been exagerating a bit, but thats not the point.
By twitchy I don't mean an "Uncontrolable beast" either
I find people like to put words in my mouth alot.

I didn't say to put DRAG slicks on it, proper circuit racing slicks.

If you don't know what road racing is, its the same thing as circuit racing. Basicaly a different term we use over here in canada to differentiate between oval and circuit tracks. We call them ovals and road courses.

Show me one racing tire thats got 35 side walls. I'd like to see what car that goes on as well.

Sidewalls of 60 are standard on production cars the age of the OP's, so unless you modifiy the suspension (alignment change will do) it will handel worse. But you can go to as low as 40 with wider tires and some alignment changes.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Fastest I've driven in a car, cant remember. But fastest in a car as a passenger was 160km/h in an E150 van. The thing felt like it was going to fly apart, and the speedo started randomly jumping to different numbers and then back to the actual speed.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
If you have a tire that is not wide enough (say 215), and you put something like a 35 sidewall (lowest you can get in canada) it will be twitchy.
I know that from the countless number of cars that I see with dents, and missing bodywork, and even twisted frames. Because the idiot ricer owner decided 20 inch wheels with no side wall would be a good idea. And then he tries to race and realizes that the rear end doesn't want to stay at the rear of the car.

If you want to drag race, you get 60+ sidewall slicks.

If you road race, 205/50 R16 fronts, 235/45 R16 rears. anything lower isn't going to help at all. THATS ALL I WAS SAYING!

Hell, if you want to go overkill then you can get 215/45 R16 fronts and 265/45 R15 rears. But thats more of a drag setup.

I work with tires almost every day, its part of my job to know what will work and what wont

Lastly, put racing slicks on that car that goes 400km/h and watch how much better it will corner than on road legal tires.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
I'm not saying they have to flex alot, just more than the shit 2 inch sidewall tires people buy at the local "tuning shop". A standard sidewall tire will always outperform something like that, thats all I was stating.

If you look at the link, those tires are mostly 40-50 sidewalls.

If the sidewall doesn't flex enough it can be just as bad as if it flexes too much. I never said soft sidewalls give you better grip, but if you have sidewalls that are to stiff it can effect the handeling of a car negatively, the car will become twitchy.

As you said, F1 tires are designed for use on that type of car specificaly, and different compounds have different side wall stiffness.

Ride quality is a factor too, but its not as high a priority if the car is going to be raced.

I understand alot about how all this works, I've done alot of research.

anything below 40 on a 235 tire is unquestionably going to ruin the ride quality, but it will also make the car twitchy as hell.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
The logic is that low profile tires that you can buy at shops arn't the same as real racing tires, the side walls are to short to provide enough flex. If you look at real racing tires that fit in the "low profile" catagory, they flex more than ones you can buy from a shop and arn't as short either. And the only logical example I could give is formula 1 tires, which are stiff, but not as stiff as one might think. They curtainly don't flex like a truck tire, but they arn't rock solid.

Sidewall flex plays a very big part in the traction of a tire during cornering, and if you buy these "high performance" low profile tires at a store, they are not going to flex enough.

Simple example, my boss has a VW golf MkII 2L stock with 205/60 R15 wheels. His buddy has the EXACT same car exept for a turbo and low profile "high performance" tires.

In a straight line the car with the turbo totaly destroys the other car, but in the corners the car with the turbo can't keep up, it just can't take the corners because the tires loose traction quicker.

If anything, these are better for a car thats driven on the street.
http://www.mickeythompsontires ... reet.php?item=SportsmanSR
but thats not my definition of low profile.
These are measured in inches not mm.

I think we've had a bit of a miss understanding of what I mean by low profile, I'm talking these tires that people put on 18-20 inch rims that have 2 inches of sidewall or less.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Just look at a Formula 1 car, if low profile tires where better, they'd use them.

Low profile tires are for looks.

going down to 40 is ok if you have wider tires, because it is a percentage of the width after all, so to get a good sidewall hight on a wide tire you need to go down a bit more. but generaly, 50 is good for normal width tires.

If you want a good performance tire, it needs to have a good sidewall, otherwhise you lose some of the tire's ability to handel cornering forces.

any car that goes 402km/h definately isn't going to be taking corners well unless it has some serious racing slicks fitted. Which will have higher sidewalls.
Last edited by DragonCommando, .
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
Like everyone else has said, worry about the brakes, suspension, and tires. Engine mods won't do any good (especialy 400hp) if you don't have a way to put that power down properly.

one suggestion I give to everyone who upgrades there tires, DO NOT GO LOW PROFILE. No matter what anyone says to you, Low profile tires are NOT high performance tires. The side walls arn't tall enough to absorb the cornering forces like a good old 60-65 side wall will.

If anyone wants to argue this, just look at serious race cars, none of them use low profile tires. The lowest you should go is 50, anything lower isn't usefull for serious racing applications.

Low profile tires are for looks, nothing more.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
I wouldent recommend WARRock. Last time I played it' it was buggy as hell.
I fired a whole magazine from my MP5 into a guy, he did the same to me. We both ran away and died about 20 seconds later, even though we where both at 0 HP right after fireing.
DragonCommando
S2 licensed
In most cars I've driven and every car I've worked on the brake lights come on before the brakes take effect, the only way to slow down without the lights coming on is to pull the parking brake. This is so that you can't slow down unexpectedly and have someone rear end you.

People sometimes left foot brake and rest there foot lightly on the brake pedal when not braking, so there lights are always on even though the car isn't slowing down. And they arn't draging the brakes.
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