Onboard from a motorbike club race. 2006 Suzuki SV650 (cam bike) vs. Ducati 749.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_m5YTTwdZnM&hd=1

Quote from RiseAgainstMe! :

burn out

There's also "spinning your wheels," but that's usually said in relation to lack of progress in general, not necessarily related to cars.

I've never heard someone refer to wheel spin as "spinning out."

I'm back at it again this year!

ASRA Thunderbike race last week, 30/5/2011: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_m5YTTwdZnM&hd=1

NJMP Thunderbolt Results (15/5/2011)
AM Lightweight GP: 1st
AM Lightweight SB: 1st
AM Ultralight Superbike: 2nd
AM GT Lights: 3rd (on DOT's in the rain)
AM Thunderbike: 3rd

Summit Point Results (30/5/2011)
AM GT Lights: 1st
AM Ultralight Superbike: 1st
AM Lightweight GP: 1st
AM ASRA Thunderbike: 2nd
AM Lightweight Superbike: 2nd
AM CCS Thunderbike: 3rd


In pretty much every race where I finished first, I led into T1 and led the whole race.

Last edited by Forbin, Mon, 3 Oct 2016 18:57.

Quote from Jakg :

Like I said, I thought it was the clutch... but my Dad wasn't so sure. Taking it to a garage to fix is going to be expensive (as in, it's going to be very difficult to take a "dead" car to a garage, and once it's there I really don't have much choice other than pay whatever they deem wrong).

After posting my rant on Facebook, Tristan commented again suggesting it might not be the clutch, which is whats prompted me to ask.

If it *is* the clutch, the local garage want ~£750 to fit a new one. Mr Clutch in Norwich want ~£320, which is a lot better, but getting my dead car 35 miles could prove a pain, especially if I turn up and it's not the clutch.

Well the engine clearly runs okay, so the problem has to be somewhere between the crankshaft and the wheels.

A. clutch not gripping
B. transmission gears sheared
C. at least one diff gear sheared (or disengaged somehow)
D. at least one driveshaft broken

Is there a clutch adjustment that suddenly went out of whack? Is the clutch hydraulic or cable-actuated?

Last edited by Forbin, Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:50.

Only other thing I can think of is you sheared all the teeth off one of the gears in the diff.

Your clutch is clearly not engaging properly. How could this not be the clutch? Being able to go through the gearbox, while the engine is idling, with or without the clutch, is a clear indication of this.

You do understand how the drivetrain works, right? If your clutch were working properly, you'd never get it in gear at a stop with the engine running and the clutch engaged (i.e. foot off the clutch). If you somehow managed to do so, it would stall instantly.

I honestly can't believe you're even asking this.

Last edited by Forbin, Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:31.

Quote from Shotglass :

from my gut feeling id say the tyre core heats up too fast and cools down way too slowly
it feels almost like the tyres dont really dissipate heat at all which is also quite apparent by the way that the outer layer of rubber never really gets colder than the core even on the front of a single seater with 300kmh of chilly air rushing past it

Quote from yaper :

Smaller wheels are rotating faster which helps cooling it.

What you both fail to realize is that, as speed increases, so too does the frequency of flex of a particular radial segment of rubber. This flexing generates heat.

Seriously? How do you play LFS?

Quote from Inouva :

I'm agree with that it use the same engine as GT evolution and the same tracks... and physics was rubbish

Is kinda "sad" that they are so few game that have a decent sense of speed...

SBK X Superbike World Championship is any good?

I tried the demo for at least one of the SBK games recently (may have been SBK2009) and didn't like it at all. IIRC, they had the brakes reversed such that the rear brake stopped you really fast.

GP-Bikes is the most pure bike sim I've tried to date, made by people who at least have something of a clue when it comes to vehicle dynamics, but it's very much an unfinished project with only a few bikes and 2 tracks. I think it's also based on the ISI engine, which tells you something about the quality of the other bike games on the market that I would actually like an ISI-based game.

Last edited by Forbin, Thu, 19 May 2011 16:13.

Or some fault in the pedals or pedal calibration (brake dragging, no full throttle, dirty pots causing spiking, etc.).

Quote from Inouva :

Thx gona give it a try

superbike riding challenge have a good sense of speed

Perhaps, but the game itself was crap. Black Bean has never released a worthwhile racing game.

GP-Bikes (use on-board view)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFcS-NoAx9w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH5jBGfWE8o

TT Superbikes (PS2, the Isle of Man game, use on-board view). Look up some onboards on youtube.

Last edited by Forbin, Thu, 19 May 2011 13:58.

Quote from Jakg :

I have no idea how you found that but by christ I wish it was possible to delete my first 10k posts in one go.

By following the directions quoted in your previous post.

1. Under "Search by User Name," type in your username and select "Find Posts by User"
2. Under "Sort Results by," select "in Ascending Order"
3. Under "Show Results as," click "Posts"
4. Click "Search Now"
5. Click the first result.

I think you're doing Step 5 wrong. You're going to the bottom of the last page of the results, when your first post is on top of the first page. That's what "Ascending Order" means.

Last edited by Forbin, Sun, 8 May 2011 15:43.

Quote from Jakg :

Doesn't work, unfortunately - shows my first post was on 4th April 2006, 23:10, yet I made the thread the post was in at 20:55...

You sure about that?

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=52656#post52656

My first posts were obliterated long ago from RaceSimCentral's archives. Among them was a setup for the GTT (now known as the XRT) called "Grippy," which, despite being a pretty crappy set with my limited setup skills at the time, ended up being fairly popular among those who could not handle a truly fast setup. I only had a joystick at the time, with digital throttle.

My first post on LFSForum, being a geek as always:

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=1031#post1031

Troll thread is trolling.

Canadians are weird because they don't enjoy their tentacle pr0n like we do.

Another one?

ISI engine = fail

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

...only people who would care are those who have something to hide.

Quote from The Very End :

When that is said, why they store the information in the first place is beyound me, but if you have nothing to hide you have nothing to fear

"Nothing to hide" is a logical fallacy.

Quote :

"Why should you worry about privacy if you have nothing to hide? This rhetorical question is sometimes posed by people who naively assume that privacy is of interest only to criminals, subversives, and deviants with dirty little secrets to hide. The fallacous argument is that fine upstanding folks should not need much privacy and that aggressively pursuing privacy is evidence of criminality or depravity. It is important to recognize that strong privacy really is a legitimate concern of all good law-abiding citizens. This is especially true if the authorities that you must deal with are less than perfect."

(source: http://books.google.com/books? ... onepage&q&f=false)

Also: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com ... 11/1468-5973.1101005/full

Last edited by Forbin, Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:55.

Quote from DarkTimes :

I'm going to hijack this thread a bit (looks like it's done now anyway). My graphics card went kaput today (on painful onboard graphics now). I have similar requirements to the OP, except due to financial constraints I'm looking at the sub-£50 range. Basically...

• PCI-E 16x
  
• ~£50 (56 euros)
  
• ATI or Nvidia
  

Oh, DX10 would be nice... Frankly I just need something cheap to get me off these on-board graphics (can barely even run Windows), but I don't know enough about graphics cards to make an informed choice.

Any help welcome!

Radeon 6570

Quote from pärtan :

I shouldn't speak as I probably have no grasp on this. However I'm going to say what I have in mind anyways. When there is lag, there is glitches in the collisions. This causes the total amount of kinetic energy to be different before and after the crash. So I was thinking: In the event of a collision between two cars. Something that could work is that the momentum of each car, is registered right from that cars local computer. So if two cars were to crash into each other. The variables used from each car would be taken straight from each cars drivers computer. This way lag wouldn't affect the total kinetic energy after the crash.

I think you're hugely oversimplifying the problem. It's not as simple as determining the total kinetic energy of the vehicles involved and dividing it evenly. Momentum, like velocity, has both a vector and amplitude. Also like velocity, momentum is relative. A head-on collision is going to have a much greater energy transfer than a T-bone, even if both vehicles are traveling at the same speed and have the same momentum. Under the same conditions, a rear hit is going to have almost no transfer of energy.

Last edited by Forbin, Tue, 19 Apr 2011 15:52.

Quote from lemming77 :

I'm using a G25 aswell. Overall is at 100% at all times apart from in LFS, when I have it set to 105%. Damping and spring are at 0% regardless of what I'm doing.

Where can I adjust the FF curve? I've never heard of being able to do such a thing before.

FF curve adjustment is through the use of the overall force slider in the Windows controller options. Values greater than 100% result in an overall increase in force, but that increase is greater at the center than the extremes. Or at least so the theory goes.

Maybe try jacking it up to 120% and see how it feels for you then. As always, adjust the LFS FF setting accordingly.

Aero adjustments should not be considered a band-aid for poor handling, though. A good, balanced suspension setup* is key to proper handling, especially at lower speeds.

*not too soft, not too stiff, maybe a slight bias toward understeer or oversteer based on driver preference, plus reasonable damper rates based on spring rate and driving style requirements. Bob Smith's VHPA can help a lot with determining an appropriate spring rate (based upon the desired frequency) and the critical damping rate.

Last edited by Forbin, Wed, 13 Apr 2011 13:15.