I want adjustable setups. This car understeers badly.

Quote from Dennis93 :

americans.

Yes?

Quote from ACCAkut :

Absolutely epic write-up, so he was 3rd in Rally America class, and would have been 23rd in WRC, beating two WRC machines (is there a overall ranking somewhere?)

Here.

Quote from UncleBenny :

I can't find any actual results for the Rally America event, best I could find is this: http://www.rallymexico.com/content.php?page=rally%20America

But there are no final results that I see there.

There are, TC 22 America and scroll down.

If they were competing in WRC, their final time would've put them 24th out of 26 WRC cars (25 WRC cars competed).

Anyone have official results documentation to verify this?

As long as RF2 fixes the plastic tires and the really bad FFB, I'll probably buy it.

Quote from mrodgers :

Hmm.... Don't know. I've never driven anything with 600 hp. I do live out in the middle of nowhere and have played around quite a bit with a weak 117 hp in the snow on good off-road tires (read as tons of traction) in an old Toyota 4Runner for many many years.

Can't see how it's so difficult. I've fishtailed my vehicles around plenty of times. I've just never had it with such easy capability as it would be with huge hp numbers. If he would get the car sideways, I would change my opinion. But just fishtailing a car out a wee tiny bit isn't what I call skill, especially when you have such capability on tap and hardly use any of it.

You can't, then. Guaranteed. Driving an SUV in the dirt versus a "racing car" with slicks on hot tarmac... I cannot even fathom how much of a relevance gap there is in that statement. You would spin about five thousand times just trying to put all that power down through finicky race tires (which give virtually no feedback).

Quote from Mustafur :

I only played it on Xbox.

The FFB on the Xbox was so bad I couldn't play it with a wheel, had to use the controller.

Weaving is near useless and is really only good for keeping the clag off the tires, which we don't have in LFS. The best way is to alternate sliding the rear and the fronts in corners. Slide the rear with power, obviously, slide the fronts with sharp, exaggerated steering input to induce terminal understeer.

On straights, accelerate then brake hard.

If this was real life I'd tell you to take at least 2 laps of slow (7/10ths) running to acclimate the compound on a new set, but we don't have to worry about that in games. Just drive the balls off it till the screen is green.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Not everyone can afford to waste their money on pointlessly stylish racewear when for 20% of the cost you can have something just as safe and just as comfortable.

I did manage to justify Alpinestars gloves though, as a Christmas treat a few years back. They do look nice, but I know they aren't actually any 'better' than other brands.

I've been using an Aplinestars karting suit the past 2 years, it's held up really well. The gloves not so much. I'll probably go Sparco for fireproofing though. I'm convinced the Alpinestars is adding a couple tenths.

I only left foot brake when I don't have to downshift/clutch/rev match. Some drivers start off with the left foot, switch to the right foot to heel-and-toe, then go back to the left foot for the brake release and trail brake into the corner, but this upsets my braking too much to be of any use. You'd be really surprised how much braking distance you lose by heel-and-toeing (you lose modulation and in many cases come off the brake a bit), so doing all that shifting around will even further impact it. It only really works when you have a wide brake pedal that can fit 2 shoes.

I find I'm better at trail braking with my left foot. Probably from all that karting. I don't ever use my left foot for braking road cars, because it's not tuned that way, and I don't want to lose the racing "tune" I have on it.

Quote from senn :

Yeah i know its hard to disengage gears when they are under load. But being as most of thr true sequentials in LFS use ignition cut etc, you'd think they'd ignition cut on up AND downshifts, hence i thought it was a protection feature.

Ignition cut on a downshift means you cannot rev match. At least, not without putting the clutch in and waiting for the shift to complete.

Quote from Furiously-Fast :

The environment in the screenshots look good... suggestions anyone?

Ibiza/Mallorca.

Quote from JackDaMaster :

Bewbs.

Fixed.

This season's gonna be great. Now all they have to do is remove the spec cars and we've got a real racing series again.

Quote from J@tko :

But I dunno how far 7km is without changing it to miles

I'm the opposite. I can usually get pretty close with my eyes in clicks, but I have no measure of distance in miles, save for extremely long distances (like when I'm planning a trip, I'll use miles. If I'm pointing something out that's a ways away, I'll use kilometers or meters. Maybe decameters if I'm feeling fancy).

Quote from ATHome :

Sorry, but some parts are far from perfect. Collision physics, damage system, turbo simulation, and some more aspects of the game.

And that aren't features to add in some time in the future, they are there, but they are half baked.

What's wrong with the turbo simulation?

Quote from chavm481 :

JUST go to the STORE and get instant gratification

But when you put work into it it's more gratifying in the end.

2 things happen in a low-grip environment. Understeer becomes incredibly pronounced, and oversteer becomes incredibly pronounced. That is to say, the car will rotate faster, and will also refuse to turn more.

Using a mouse and, I presume, buttons for throttle and braking is going to be tough. If you had a wheel, I would suggest entering the dirt corners slowly, let the understeer build up, take an incredibly late apex and gently add power as you exit. Get used to balancing the car with the throttle and steering simultaneously. Once you get good at that, you can start using the brake to rotate the car into the same angle on corner entry, allowing higher cornering speeds. Using a mouse, I really don't know what practical exercises are going to get around the permanent roughness of the inputs.

Quote from Gills4life :

Well it's better than playing with someone else's balls.

*sigh*

For the first few tries (probably 2+ minutes) I got some retarded error saying something about no apps instances configured.

I finally get in and I see COD has stock left. I click, wait another 30 seconds, and then it says it's all gone.

Same thing with Fallout.

I go back from trying Fallout and now everything is gone.

Well, so much for that website. They need to find some other way to give out these prizes.

Good luck!

It's getting slow now.

10 minutes, boys. Keep hittin those F5s!

Quote from Migz :

Nah they'll have 4 copies of each game. 1 for each wave and then 1 for the general redemption.

*Readies ninja fingerz*

Quote from Bose321 :

Yeap, not in 2nd eather. So next one starts in 1 hour? Or in 2 hour?

Pretty sure 2. 5:15 here now (Pacific), so the 3rd wave will prolly start at 7:00 or so.

EDIT: Site says 10:00 PM - 11:00 PM Eastern, so between 7 and 8 for me.

Yep, we're in the 3rd wave.

It'll be just my luck. Fallout 3, Mass Effect 2 and MW2 will all be sold out I'm sure.