I worked on the steering issue a bit more, changed some values. Now it feels better for me, of course take such comments from me with a tablespoonful of salt considering my steering input device.
suspensions.ini changes:
WBCAR_STEER= 0.390, -0.180, 0.122 ; Steering rod car side attach point WBTYRE_STEER= 0.108, -0.193, 0.149 ; Steering rod tyre side attach point
suspensions.ini original:
WBCAR_STEER=0.390, -0.180, -0.122 ; Steering rod car side attach point WBTYRE_STEER=0.108, -0.193, -0.149 ; Steering rod tyre side attach point
---
car.ini changes:
STEER_RATIO=12.5 ; Steer ratio LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.00248 ; Because of AC complex suspension geometry, you need to calculate manually the steer rod ratio
car.ini original:
STEER_RATIO=-12.5 ; Steer ratio LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.00216 ; Because of AC complex suspension geometry, you need to calculate manually the steer rod ratio
In summary, changed the steering rod attachment points to invert the steering ratio to be positive and adjusted the steering rod ratio using the method in the file comment.
Out of curiosity, where did you get the dimensions of the car? A modern V8SC's height is quoted to be
and just by looking at images, the Jag doesn't look taller.
I noticed that sometimes the car gets into very severe oscillations that takes ages and ages to settle, after hitting kerbs. I reduced the car's height by 0.2 to be close to the height of the road-going XJ12C which I saw quoted to be 1372mm, and these huge oscallations reduced noticeably while retaining the boat-like characteristics intact.
Also found that some of the vagueness in the handling was down to the setup as well, I used the one attached (remove .txt).
I want a clean post for this so no edit. I was told that the iRacing V8SCs have a steering ratio of 13.56. Assuming 400 degrees of steering wheel rotation, 400 / 13.56 = 29.5 degrees of steering angle.
- All of the AC console INIReader errors fixed.
- -15 degrees of caster.
- 400 degrees of steering lock (lock to lock, 200 per side).
- 29.5 degrees of steering angle.
- 13.56 steering ratio.
- LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO is 0.00296.
- FFMULT is set to 1.5 from because I suspect that the increased caster will help with feel.
Let's say that a V8SC has
- 24 degrees of steering angle
- 400 degrees of rotation (so a bit over 180 per side)
Steer ratio would be 400/24 = 16.7
By using the below method to get the rod length, I get 0.00261.
So the final values for control would be as below, feels alright.
STEER_ASSIST=0 ; Variable steer assist, speed relative STEER_LOCK=200 ; Real car's steer lock from center to right STEER_RATIO=16.7 ; Steer ratio LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.00261
A bigger problem is that as far as I can tell, real V8SCs run a minimum of ~-14 degrees of caster. The current geometry only gives -6.4. Perhaps that's why it lacks feel that upping the FFMULT can't fix.
I really couldn't say, because I never kept any sort of a log of what I changed. Any combination of the DX/Y values, flex, xmu, friction limit angles, relaxation length, hub masses.. Sorry, I can't be any more specific. Besides, the Jag may not even have a problem as such. It could be down to individual players' wheel settings and such. Various people with the same wheel seem to have very different opinions on some of the cars in AC :-\.
It's really quite complex the way the values interact with each other. When I was tweaking my tyres I found that anything more negative than -0.02 for the DX/Y1 values were undrivable, yet I've seen tyres that work fine at 3x that. Crazy.
Turning circle is identical to the URD C6R, if that car is more responsive, it's likely to be a complex relation between geometries, dampers and tyres. I don't have an FFB wheel so it's impossible for me to tune. Someone else could try to tweak the various values of course, e.g. increase FFMULT or change STEER_RATIO and see what happens.
; In car.ini [CONTROLS] FFMULT=1.20 ; Force Feedback power multiplayer STEER_ASSIST=0.55 ; Variable steer assist, speed relative STEER_LOCK=320 ; Real car's steer lock from center to right STEER_RATIO=17.1 ; Steer ratio LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.00271
The model was ripped from Forza by some Russians. Their "mod" is a payware scam: ripped model with URD C6R physics (literally, not changed at all). Mine is the model from that with Cobra sounds and 98% reworked physics, using real V8SC data where possible, tyres are also original.
Obviously can never be "released".
It's a fun car, but there's something about it I can't put my finger on, apart from having quite a bit of grip. I struggled to get it sideways at corner exits with throttle only. I suppose that could simply be the long gearing.
Anywho, the main issue I have with is that it seems to "wonder" quite a bit on straights and sometimes in corner exits. In the latter case I've straightened up the steering a second or two ago, have no oversteer, but the rear keeps rotating a bit which causes a loose feeling in the steering. In the former case it's a matter of driving in what I believe to be a fairly straight line, but find that it wants to go left or right.
That issue could easily have something to do with using mouse steering although it's the only car it happens with. I think there was a bit of that in one of the early Cobra releases too, now that I think of it.
Some time back I had the same issue with my own mod car, it turned out to be the tyres/unsprung weight, eventually I was able to tune it out.
It's not the only adjustment that can be made. Drag the small white boxes next to 0% and 100% to change the minimum and maximum range of any axis.
Example:
- Assume that your braking curve is linear (1% pedal travel = 1% of maximum braking force).
- If you drag the range box from 100% to 80%, your maximum braking force is 80%.
So, reduce the maximum braking force until you no longed lock up "too often". Obviously the actual maximum braking force won't be equal to the maximum range if your braking curve isn't linear.
Example 2:
- Your pedals are old and they spike badly when fully pressed down and when not pressed at all.
- Reduce maximum axis range and increase minimum axis range until spiking isn't noticeable in the pedals app.
A short test video of a car mod I've been modding. Shares virtually no physics at all with the Russki payware scam that's just a Forza model with URD C6R physics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2xb22hHPG4.
213 km/h in dim lighting conditions, in heavy(ish(?)) rain in a double yellow zone. Is that really, really slow? I think that if he'd have been going really, really slowly he wouldn't have reached the barriers had he aquaplaned into a spin. Of course there is no way to prove it so it's a moot point.
I don't get how that removes the possibility that he knew of the car/plate in advance or got someone to find a car, any car with a suitably offensive plate. Not saying that's what happened, but this "it couldn't have been intentional because 13 years" isn't an all encompassing argument.
There is no passing without race control's permission during a safety car period. Green is not shown until the pass throughs have caught up at the back. Is there not a rule that stipulates that cars cannot be "too far" (i.e. maintain a gap) away from each other during safety car periods? Given these conditions, the only way to lose time during a safety car is to pit and lose a position.
Anyway I don't recall a time when someone fighting for points was on the opposite side of the track when the green had dropped.
It's beside the point anyway, I was obviously saying that once the safety car is on the track, there is no point in driving flat out to gain time which is why it's safer than waved double yellows, even if waved double yellows required coming to a full stop at the first relevant marshal post.
I believe that if the safety car had been out, the chance of this accident happening would have reduced to the point where driver error would not have been a factor. There is a very different mentality behind any yellow zone as compared to a safety car period. Time cannot be lost from slowing down during a safety car period, but can be in a double/yellow zone. Positions cannot be lost, there is no racing going on during safety car periods where as the opposite is true in a double/yellow zone without a safety car. Then there's also the subjective opinion on the severity of an accident, if it's so far away or out of the racing line that it "seems minor", I can imagine that different drivers will react differently.
Objectively, the best solution would be to set a specific course of action and prevent the drivers' personal judgements from coming into play at all. How that can be achieved in a sensible, safe way I'm not sure. Any sudden and forced effect on the car is a no-no. I believe there was an incident during LM24h due to drivers pushing 100% up to a yellow zone and then braking hard in the middle of a straight, for example (Note: hearsay, I don't recall it myself).
A team was banned from this year's ADAC N24h due to one of their drivers not reacting properly to yellows, and being about a half a metre away from collecting a recovery vehicle and killing a marshal. Sometimes it doesn't matter what's displayed as long as there's something to lose by not pushing.
It's likely that large sections of the car, around the cockpit (nose, sides, airbox if possible), were removed to get him out safely. It seems that at least jaws of life were used, for one.