K, so I gave it a shot today on both my dirtbike and my friends moped.

I didn't realize how minute the required movement is. After doing it over and over, i've noticed that it's nothing I haven't been doing before, but that once you're actively aware of it, you don't really need to shift body weight at all

(yes, I did read that article on how using body weight is bad).

I noticed it's allot more effective on my friends moped though. I'm assuming that it's just as the article says, and that it's because his moped has a tonne more grip on-road than my dirtbike.

Quote from Thorvertonian :

Until you are used to your bike (and even when you are), changing speed while conering can be very dangerous!

Had this bike since '03

I meant correctional braking anyway though :P

Quote from sinbad :

It's near impossible to lean a bike over without the front wheel deflection that c/s gives you.

If you're aware of it, it becomes very useful. Someone that knows that if you give the left hand grip a tug (active c/s) the bike will pitch over hard to the right is going to be better off in a swerve to avoid situation than someone that thinks they should just try to lean to the right (passive c/s).

Don't worry about which way the wheel is pointing mid turn, just remember to change your path (or tighten the line mid-corner) deflect the front wheel in the opposite direction.

btw: post a link to the vid of the guy turning the bars fully to the left and bike not doing anything please.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8IdTq3_3WI

I'm getting really freaking confused now. What I was doing on my friends moped, was turning the wheel away from the turn, and keeping it there through the whole turn.

Should I be using CS to my advantage to just initiate the turn? Because i've found it works just keeping the wheel faced opposite through the whole turn, although it's difficult. I figured that it's only difficult because i'm not used to it though.

Last edited by sinkoman, Thu 28 Jun 2007, 08:14.

Thanks for the advice.

I need to head down to the store tomorrow to pick up some air filter oil, i'll try to be more aware of it, and try to play around with it.

Might even take on a hill nearby my house, see if I can notice it then.

And thanks for the weight advice Gentlefoot. That had been confusing me for the past few days. I figured it'd be better to use my rear brakes into and through a turn, yet to get maximum rear brake efficiency, that'd mean that i'd need to drop my ass on the absolute rear of my bike, which didn't make sense for turning.

I should be getting my motorcycle permit fairly soon, and have been reading up on it as much as possible. I just recently read an article on countersteering, which is causing a bit of confusion...

I've been riding dirt bikes since I was around eight, and have never noticed myself countersteer. Is it possible that i've been turning incorrectly all this time, or is it more likely that I just never noticed myself countersteer.

I'm also a tad confused as to what the actual "countersteering" is. I saw a few videos on youtube that basically showed it as being "a quick turn of the wheel in the opposite direction of the turn, which initiates a lean, at which point the wheel is then turned into the turn". However, watching motoGP, i've noticed that those guys seem to keep the wheel turned away from the turn through the whole turn. To further confuse myself, I saw ANOTHER video on youtube where a guy was going thirty miles per hour, down a completely straight road, turned his wheel so that it faced left, DID NOT LEAN AT ALL, and his bike drifted to the right side of his lane, while he KEPT his wheel facing left.

Help? I'm neither too sure as to what countersteering IS, and not too sure if i've been turning incorrectly all this time.

Quote from The General Lee :

Amazing.

This thread, not that noddle shit.

These forums have gone very down hill. Its the mods I feel sorry for.

How so?

Catholic who feels offended by this thread?

Pastafarianism is pure gold. It's brilliant how they blatantly mock christianity

Give it a day or two. Took me a few days to get used to my MOMO when I switched from a controller.

I watched about 3 hours of it and stopped because it was nothing more than a battle between the five diesels, and I couldn't find anyone giving adequate coverage of the GT1 and 2 classes.

Did I miss anything?

Quote from zeugnimod :

You should really go online, and if only to watch the lines and braking points of the other drivers.

The GFC server is normally crowded every evening.

I'm trying to use the same strategy I used when I practiced for the AS Nat race.

I ran the track offline, using the WR replay and Analyze for Speed readings as reference, and once I was confident enough that I wouldn't spin out and cause any collisions, I began practicing online.

Don't want to ruin anybodies races

I'm thinking about checking out GTR2, just for a change of pace from LFS, and was wondering what you guys thought of it.

How good is the physics engine in terms of being realistic? How well does the weather system work? Are things like tire heat and suspension stress modeled?

Quote from amp88 :

Are you using Worm's set? If so, I've used this set myself for a while and I've always found it to be fast and stable. What, in particular, "blows" about the suspension to you? Too little overall grip, unbalanced grip levels, low speed understeer, high speed oversteer, too little skill etc? The more details you give the better people will be able to help you. Just saying "the suspension blows" does nothing to enable people to help you.

edit: After checking your laps chart for KY Nat I see you've only done 8 laps of FOX, with a PB of a 1:45.79 (WR is a 1:38.83). You really should put in a good number of laps at a consistent pace before you come to the decision that the setup is at fault and not the driver. Even with a poor setup (which Worm's set most certainly is NOT) you should be able to lap much quicker than within 7 seconds of the WR. Put some more laps of practise in, you'll benefit a lot more from that than from a new setup.

I've been doing most of my practice offline, so as not to disturb online races.

And i've actually been using Darko's set, i'll try Worm's, see how that one works out

My problem with Darko's was that there was really, very little grip, so i'd always end up in a lower than ideal gear coming out of pretty much all turns, and overall acceleration (on straits) seemed to be suffering too.

I also had the same problem with Darko's AS National set, while I was practicing for THAT GFC event. It had great aero, but the suspension was so shitty that it was hard to lap consistently without breaking grip and spinning out in at least one or more turns, and I would always end up coming out of corners in less than ideal gears and speeds.

I've been practicing on KY National for the coming Gentlefoot Formula Championship race using the Team Inferno set, and i've found that it really blows in the suspension department.

So, as embarrassed as I am to ask this, I was wondering if somebody could either share a FOX KY Nat set, or tell me what's probably going wrong with the set, so I can figure it out for myself

Sounds to me like a waste of time to incorporate into LFS, and would make LFS much too viral.

Thanks all for your help

The whole reason I want to run it off of a second battery is because it'll be allot easier to maintain than running it off of the bikes battery. The bikes battery runs an old electric starter on the bike that doesn't work all that well, so I just always just kick the bastard (embarrassing using the electric start on a trail too :P).

Now, the bike DOES have a charger, but I think the fact that i've run this thing for about a year without touching the electric start, and the battery is still dead, is a testament to how crappy the charger is.

THAT'S why I want to run it off of a second battery. Because I really don't have the money to go out and buy a second charger, and then manage all the wiring within the bike, and try to work around it.

BUT, I DO have a lead acid charger that's been working beautifully for ages, and low and behold, I have a SPARE LEAD ACID BATTERY!

And CSU, what I meant about taking your suggestion, is I most likely WILL end up wiring up another relay and fuse circuit in there between the battery and the lights, EVEN if end up using a second battery.

Btw, I got the parts I needed and finished most of the circuitry today. Just need to finish some basic wiring and see how it works.

I have another question though. I ended up changing my 555 circuit, and instead of outputting the expected 5 volts, it's doing 12. I'm wondering if it's safe to run this 12 volts straight to the lights, or if I should dial it down with a regulator, and then run it to a relay.

Quote from mrodgers :

Just do the lights the easy and legal way. Get yourself an XR400, very nice bike. It's a 4 stroke, but loads of off-road power. They don't come stock with the light kit, but it's available.

It may be easier, but it'd be nowhere near as satisfying or fun as taking an idea from your head, drawing up a bunch of diagrams on paper, and then turning it into a fully functional device.

Well, how would I go about re-charging my battery? The manual says it's an MF Battery, whatever the hell that is. Can I just jury rig it to my Lead Acid charger? Can I just try to Jump Start it with my car?

And I just fond the circuit diagram for the ignition system, so even if I do end up using a secondary battery, i'll probably still end up taking your suggestion .

Well, I just checked, and the battery in the bike is dead atm :P

I'll prolly end up just dropping the gel cel in there. I've seen ideas similar to yours run on street bikes before, but my bike is a kicker.

Separate gel cel will probably be easier to run anyway, less jumping through hoops to disconnect power from the lighting circuit to the power source.

Btw, my circuit is completely home done. A friend of mine got the lights bashed in on his mopeds a few days ago, and while they worked fine, he ended up getting a new set, just for aesthetics, and gave me the old ones (lamps and mounting brackets only that is), so I drew up a blinker circuit myself.

My circuit basically is a 555 modulating ,via an NPN transistor, a SPDT relay, with the normally closed being connected to nothing, and the normally open being connected to + Vcc, and the power source to the whole thing being connected via one half of a DPCO switch. The other half of the DPCO connects the Pole of the relay to either of the two lights. I'd scan my diagrams, but my scanner isn't hooked up atm

What do you think of the setup, just from hearing of it?

Should I still be running a fuse?

Last edited by sinkoman, Sat 16 Jun 2007, 12:43.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

This year, Super Aguri, for the following reasons:

1. They have the word "Super" in their name, like Super Mario.
   
2. They've got Takuma Sato, the only interesting driver in F1.
   
3. Shaming Ralf Schumacher and Alonso last week. GO SUPER AGURI!

They just need a good theme tune and they'll be all set. Something like the Power Rangers theme.

Omg, I remember that. I just about fell out of my chair laughing when I saw Sato pull ahead of Alonso in the last lap.

Bastard must have been shitting bricks:jester:

Don't know why, but i'm liking BMW Sauber atm. No real reason, other than the fact that LFS runs a BMW Sauber, and my dad used to have a BMW bike :\.

They seem to be fairly low key too, not too "omg look at us we rule!".

McClaren seems to be kicking some major ass too, although i'm not liking the media attention that Hamilton is receiving.

I've got a circuit diagram I just finished drawing up for a set of turn signals that i'll be mounting on my dirtbike for convenience (as in, it's a non street legal bike, trail use only, but I take it short distances anyway), and I can't decide if I should run the signals off of the built in 12 V in the bike, or if I should mount a smaller 12 V lead gel cel in the seat.

Btw, lights will be coming off every time I hit the trails. Everything will be clamped down for easy removal.

Haven't gotten the circuit wired together yet, so I can't give any current draw req's just yet, but i'm 99% sure that my bike has a trickle charge system.

thoughts?

Why not just make your pitbox glow or something?

Not very realistic, but I bet it'd work out just fine.

I know on most forums, that making a thread such as this one automatically voids a persons chance at becoming a moderator...

So congrats, now he'll NEVER be a mod

Aren't enduros run exclusively on dirtbikes?

And I doubt that any of LFS' rally cross tracks are long enough to run an enduro on.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

You'll be quite welcome and we are running a rookie championship too so still something to compete for even if you're not the quickest.

I would suggest you try the FOX and get some laps in sometime this week though. They are quite different from TBO and GTR classes but I personally find them more fun to drive. If you like it, feel free to enter. And don't be put off by the reserve list. Last race I just managed a 20 car grid from 27 entries. There are likely to be a similar number of no shows for this one too.

GF

Well, I know the fox FAIRLY well, as I pop into the RedLine Racing servers fairly often, but I don't know if i'd be confident enough with it to prevent a crash online (i'd be terrified of crashing in a league race, would be so embarrassing if you took somebody else out).

I'll sign up though, get some laps in this week, see how things go

I'm not too sure i'm good enough for the Rookie class even

My fastest lap so far on AS Historic, FOX, on about 13 litres of fuel, is around 2:35.5 ish, and I know that's at least 11 seconds off of the world record

Last edited by sinkoman, Wed 13 Jun 2007, 03:51.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

Shame you don't like open wheelers. GFC event has just started - first race this Sunday and there are still places available on the reserve list. I expect quite a few dropouts and reserves usually get a drive.

32 car grid. Go to gentlefoot.com/LFS for more info.

GF

Damn, from what i've seen around the boards, you're a much esteemed racer, as is your grand prix

Maybe i'll give it a go. I suppose that since i'm rather a bit of a noob, I shouldn't be too picky. I've just always enjoyed racing the non open wheelers a bit more than the formula cars

Looking to join something fairly within my timezone, and not too difficult. You can probably get an idea of how good I am via my hotlap records. Timezone isn't TOO vital, now that i'm on my summer break.

I'd really rather not race open wheelers. Preferably standard and TBO class, but i'm willing to adapt to say GTR .

The big thing i'm looking for though is a race weekend esque setting. I'm really getting sick of having to stick to a few servers and a few tracks, just because i'll know what tracks those servers will be running (IE I don't have to learn something on the fly just to have some fun).

Just really looking for someplace where I can consistently have the opportunity to race. I really don't mind if I never finish on the podium, but I really want to be able to race with people around the same level as me.

Last edited by sinkoman, Tue 12 Jun 2007, 06:13.

What is the timing for the starting lights? I've noticed it differs from track to track, so is there any list for which tracks time what?

Do you understand how many cars we already have that go unused?

I'm saying that the only difference you'd see when racing a rotary against a pot in LFS is that the rotary would sound different, and the power bands and torque curves and revs and shit would be different.

Aside from that there'd be really no difference.

And on rotary Circle Jerk? Just read everything Mako and Glyph have posted...

I'm not saying I wouldn't like to see a rotary in the game, but i'm saying that we've already got so many cars that don't get used half the time, that I don't think that having a "rotary engine" would be enough reason to add another.

I already said in this thread that it wouldn't be a bad idea to just change the torque and rev characteristics of one of the existing cars and brand it as a rotary..