Quote from [TDRT] Spøgelset :

Can´t really help you into a team.
just want to tell you that you shouldn´t forget the demo servers. I just checked ( official W ) and right now there are more racers on the demoservers as in S1/S2 as well as there are some good grip demoservers to find.

Good luck finding your team.

I can't ****ing STAND demo servers.

Full of retards I tell ya.

I'm fairly new to the game (been playing demo for maybe a month, and just got S2 about a week ago), and due to my timezone (I live in Hawaii), have found that it's very VERY hard for me to get any racing in on the weekdays, because really, there's barely anybody online when i'm awake :P.

So i'm just looking for a fairly recognized team that has fairly regular races, where I could just actually get some seat time in.

I'm not excessively experienced, but I can lap ok on most maps, and know how NOT to cause a collision. I also know basic things like how to properly rejoin a track, and how not to be a dick when shown a blue flag.

So really, I don't believe i'd cause too much stress in any races :\

Anybody?

I was thinking of taking apart a controller, and just routing the button pads to SPST switches that'd then be mounted in a box of some sort.

Think it'd work?

Quote from -Willi- :

check if cursor keys are assigned for any other action in lfs (steering?) - remove them there.

Nope :\

And i'm running W.

I bought a MOMO over the weekend, and am trying to get it set up to feel just right.

Everything is working well so far, except that I can't figure out which buttons would serve most useful for look left and look right. I have it on the topmost left button for left, and topmost right for right, but it's not working rly well atm. Takes too much time to press, and i'm noticing the action isn't entirely ergonomic.

I was thinking of assigning my paddles + SHIFT button to look left and right.

Then my shift functions are "sorry", pit menu, wheel temp graph, and view change, and I can't figure out what other controls would be useful to have mapped to the wheel.

How do you guys have your controls set up?

Quote from r4ptor :

Using left/right arrow keys

Not working for me

I'm not entirely sure I understand how this menu works.

How does one go about changing the options in the menu? I know that up/down changes the selection, but how would I say change my tire types in the menu, whilst in a race?

Quote from Highsider9 :

... and you die wich means you can't play anymore.

Well, sounds like a good Idea.

Hmm, didn't think about that :\

I still think it'd help to stop crashers. I figure that the crasher will be removed alongside you, and nobody would want to be kicked out of a race, no matter the circumstances.

Not to mention the embarrassment of being yelled at for removing somebody else :\

And yeah, I didn't mean like, the game tracks your damage, just that if any one turn is above a certain threshold, then your taken out.

And sorry for not searching

I think it'd be nice to have a server option that when enabled, would remove racers subjected to impacts of high enough g-forces to kill a person in real life.

Say some tard behinds you rear ends you at 160 mph, or another idiot was a little too enthusiastic whilst trying to pass you on the inside of a turn, and Tboned you at 90 mph. If the server option was enabled, then they'd be pulled from the race.

I'd imagine it could aleviate a lot of the stress that comes from Turn 1.

I've been getting rear ended quite a lot online, and I think I figured out why tonight.

I was racing on a CTRA server, doing pretty good, when some guy rear ends me as i'm slowing down into a turn.

I figure "no biggy, i'm not perfect either, and I wasn't thrown off of my line. I won't say anything".

Then as soon as the race finishes he tells me "sinkoman, LEARN TO DRIVE".

I reply "what the heck man, you REAR ENDED ME!"

"LEARN TO DRIVE SINKOMAN! YOU BRAKED!"

"NO CRAP I HIT MY BRAKES! Learn to ANTICIPATE! I had complete right of way man!"

"Nobody brakes at that turn, LEARN TO DRIVE!"

Ok, so what i'm wondering is, let's say i'm following pretty closely to the rest of the pack, and I can see that i'm coming into the next turn at an off angle, so I hit my brakes and drop speed just a smidge, something that nobody else is doing. I apparently just misjudged, and didn't realize I could make it.

Yet the guy following slams into me at full speed.

Who's "fault" would you say that was? Mine or his?

I've been under the impression that whilst following, it's YOUR responsibility to correct your line for whatever odd actions the driver ahead of you may make, exactly like in real life, but i'm a noob, so i'm not entirely sure on this :\

While i'm loving the LFS community, I really have to disagree with you.

Halflife2.net has got to be the most welcoming, kind, and intellectual community i've ever had the pleasure to become a part of.

I'm noticing that a big portion of the LFS community is retarded, apparently failed english, and are overly defensive.

This is going off of not only in game, but also the boards.

I'm curious what the PROPER starting procedure is, to get not only a fast start, but to also not damage the car.

What I usually do is just rev the engine a few times to keep the RPMs up, and then right as the chrismass tree hits green, I floor it.

This used to work just fine in the demo, and i'd always start pretty high up in the pack, and without too much wheel spin, but i've noticed that in S2, everybody seems to just redline their engine and wait for the christmass tree to hit green.

I was under the impression that this would not only damage your engine, but also give you a slow and wheel spin laden start, but this hasn't been the case. Consistently, using my starting procedure, i've been falling to the absolute last of the pack, and having to hope that either turn 1 takes out enough people for me to get a reasonable place, or to just full on fight my way to the top.

So, what is the PROPER way to start? Does redlining your engine off the grid not damage it or something?

I was wondering, for those of you that own a wheel with both paddle shifters, and a sequential knob shifter, which do you use?

I picked up a Momo today, and still can't figure out which I like better.

Quote from do0f :

Here are your race results so far.. http://www.lfsworld.net/?win=races&racer=sinkoman

9 races, but you've not placed very highly yet. My recommendation is to keep racing, and the wins will come, the faster lap times will develop (also worth points, if fast enough) and the points will flow in

Ah, didn't realize that place made that much of a difference.

Yeah, i'm still trying to get used to using a wheel . Big learning curve that I wasn't expecting.

I think i'm getting the hang of it. I suppose the curve exists because i've never really driven over 70 mph in real life :P

So I picked up a wheel and purchased S2 today, and have been playing nonstop for the past 3 or so hours, on only CTRA A servers.

But CTRA shows me still as copper, with zero progress.

Am I being too impatient? Does CTRA just have a bit of update lag? Am I doing something wrong?

Do a barrel role?

Wouldn't Flat-Shifting in real life pretty much destroy your engine?

Gets irritating really seeing people do it in the demo just to get the upper hand. I'm hoping that significantly less people do it in S2 (which I hope to purchase this weekend )

Quote from Jacob_B :

I looked there and only found 1 person who had one... and they didnt have a guide on it

Shouldn't be too hard.

Strip all the mechanics off of an old petal, and mount a suitable lever to one of the pots whilst the pot is resting in the lowest impedance position possible (just use an ohm-meter to check).

Put the rest of the PCBs and other random electronics in an enclosure of some sort, and mount your little lever and pot setup onto something.

Then just plug in the contraption and mount the axis you want to use as a handbrake.

What if when you pitted, prior to the pit, you could select exactly what you wanted to be changed on your car.

Say your tires are going out and you're low on fuel, but you don't mind the tire wear too much, and don't want to waste time changing them. Three or so turns before the pit, you pull up a menu that lists all the things on your car that will be changed next pit, and can disable whatever you wish.

Pull into the pit, and they only change what you've asked them to.

If you really don't care what they change, then you just never open the menu.

Quote from tristancliffe :

What is a potmeter? Something that measures pots?

Perhaps he decided to abreviate POTentioMETER to POTMETER.

Btw, you'd use an Ohm Meter to measure the current impedance of a potentiometer.

Quote from Blackout :

Well if you have your drawer full of money, go with G25 and S2!

Well, I have my mental limits

I'll be purchasing LFS in a few days, and was thinking, it'd be really easy to organize point to point races via timed auto cross runs on very liberally designed auto cross tracks.

I mean, after all, the whole thing with rallying is the "point to point" style, and lack of prior knowledge of the setup.

I figure it'd be fun to set up a ventrilo or teamspeak server, and have a bunch of channels for each driver/co-driver pair.

Then have somebody pre-design a series of 20 or so very eventful autocross tracks, then either get somebody who's experienced with pacenotes to run the track and make a .txt to distribute to the racers, or just have the co-driver run the course and do his own style.

Co-Driver prints the pacenotes and sets his view to "spectate" on his teammate's car (in cockpit view of course), then have the driver drop a passenger into his setup.

Driver Co-Driver pairs run each autocross track in rally style, using ventrilo to communicate, then switch to the next track, rinse repeat.

Add up the times, and you have a rally

Do any leagues currently do anything akin to this?

If not, i'd REALLY enjoy seeing this organized

Last edited by sinkoman, Tue, 15 May 2007 08:53.

Quote from sam1600 :

At the risk of stating the bleedingly obvious, have you tried looking for a wheel in the local paper, for example?

I'll take your word on the shipping costs, but sourcing one locally solves that problem.

Yes actually, i've checked mostly local listings. Maybe not as low level as the paper, but I have checked fairly area specific sources.

People here are generally not very computer literate, so I only need to check 2 or 3 sources pertaining to the area to confirm with mysefl that "no, nobody has one, nobody here probably knows what one is".

Well, I have found one or two MOMOs on craigslist, but they were WAY overpriced.

Last edited by sinkoman, Tue, 15 May 2007 08:38.

Quote from sam1600 :

Well, it's relative, isn't it? Seeing as they are $USD129 brand new, $USD30-40 plus shipping is cheap. And it's about the same as what you would pay for a MOMO, but you get a better all-around package.

Anyway, if money is the issue, someone has already offered you a wheel for free including shipping. My advice is TAKE THE BLOODY WHEEL! Who cares if its got no FFB? IT'S FREE! He's even offered to pay the shipping costs!

Buy S2 with the money you didn't spend on the wheel, get a feel for driving with a wheel and pedals, enjoy all the new S2 content, then decide whether it's worth saving up some more money for a FFB wheel.

You get to have your cake and eat it too, plus your drawer full of cash is only $USD47.57 lighter (based on current exchange rates).

Actually, I can get a DFP brand new for about 100 USD, and considering that I live in Hawaii, shipping usually will average a wheel going for 60-70 out to 100 USD.

But on your advice I took ONE more look at the ebay auctions (I was watching them pretty closely for a few weeks then gave up on ebay), and found a wheel, only around one dollar at the moment, ending in about 15 hours.

Will keep an eye on this

And I wouldn't want to take his wheel because who knows, maybe he'd be better off giving it to a younger family member, or somebody else who doesn't care about force feedback.

I realize that it was FREE, but I really wouldn't want to put him through the energy of something i'd really prefer an upgrade to. In the end, i'd just feel bad for him, spending his time and money (rates to Hawaii aren't cheap) to get me a device I don't really wan't

Quote from sam1600 :

Don't mess around with the MOMO, get a second-hand DFP rev. B.

They are cheap now as a lot of DFPers have switched to the G25.

Second hand DFPs are FAR from cheap. At least on Ebay.

Sure they start at maybe 30 or 40 dollars, but they usually end in the 70's and 60's, and that's not including SHIPPING

Quote from Burnzoire :

whoah... that's a close poll!

I voted S2, eassssy. Get a logitech dual analog gamepead for pocket change and have heaps of fun in S2 No wheel doesn't stop you playing all the cool combos with the cool kids - S1 does though!

oops, i take it I voted a bit too late!

Not at all

In fact, partly because of the poll being so ****ing close, and after a bit of thinking hard...

I have a drawer full of money, CASH now, that i've been saving for a few years. As of now, it's between 300-400 USD. I've been saving the money for something, something BIG.

But i've never really had "something BIG" that I really felt was worth the money (largely in part because I used to have a big problem with spending money, which i've been trying to keep myself from). Because of this lack of something BIG, the drawer usually just devolved into a little bank I could pull 20 USD out of on the weekends to go see a movie, or spend on... COUGH otherthings COUGH.

But now, NOW, I HAVE something BIG that I REALLY want.

So I figure, "HELL, why not reach WAY into my pockets, and get them both???"

I figure that if the combo ends up not being worth as much as I thought it would be, it'll be EASY as pie to sell the MOMO for just as much as what I bought it for (considering how MOMO auctions tend to go on Ebay).

Thoughts?

Thanks for the opinions guys . If not for them, I wouldn't have realized what i've been missing out of on both fronts.