Xbox One Controller with Windows XP...Possible?
Hi All!
First of all, Hi! It's been a looong time since I was around these parts haha, hope all of you regulars from back in the day are doing well.
Anywho, I need some assistance if possible. To cut a long story short, I've been away from LFS for over 3 years now since moving country, and before moving I packed up my computer and sold my G25. I'm now hooked into LFS again since digging out my computer and intend on getting another wheel when the time is right, but I then wondered about using my XBone controller in the mean time, and this is where the problem lies....At the moment I have my XBone for most my gaming, and the only PC games that interest me right now are LFS, BeamNG Drive and WreckFest, which this PC runs with ease. However, the OS is Windows XP MSE, which doesn't seem to have support for the Xbone controller.
So! To summarize a very long winded post, is it possible to use an Xbone controller on windows XP (specifically with LFS!) and if so, how on earth do I go about doing it??
Many thanks to those of you who can help. It's great to be back!
First of all, Hi! It's been a looong time since I was around these parts haha, hope all of you regulars from back in the day are doing well.
Anywho, I need some assistance if possible. To cut a long story short, I've been away from LFS for over 3 years now since moving country, and before moving I packed up my computer and sold my G25. I'm now hooked into LFS again since digging out my computer and intend on getting another wheel when the time is right, but I then wondered about using my XBone controller in the mean time, and this is where the problem lies....At the moment I have my XBone for most my gaming, and the only PC games that interest me right now are LFS, BeamNG Drive and WreckFest, which this PC runs with ease. However, the OS is Windows XP MSE, which doesn't seem to have support for the Xbone controller.
So! To summarize a very long winded post, is it possible to use an Xbone controller on windows XP (specifically with LFS!) and if so, how on earth do I go about doing it??
Many thanks to those of you who can help. It's great to be back!
That is indeed my phone. Thanks!
I am right in assuming that when the phone is rooted, it will still act the same as now (i.e I can download stuff from the Playstore, call people etc?) except with the added benefit of being able to remove the in-built apps. Am I right?
Android phone woes - AAARGGH!!!
Howdy my lovers.
I need help with my Android phone if any of you could be so kind. I have a Samsung Galaxy Ace which so far, has proved to be an awesome little tool which I love dearly. However, I have had problems with it lately concerning the (lack of) internal storage.
It fills up too easy! I have an SD card and everything that can be moved onto there, is. Unfortunately, some apps like Facebook are huge memory hogs and cannot be moved. I also have an abundance of "in-built" apps that I do not want or need yet I cannot delete them. I have worked out that the in-built apps are taking up at least 60mb of storage!! I've done some research, and everything says I need to root the phone to remove these apps.
My question is, could one of you guys please give me a step by step guide on how I root my phone and remove these bloody apps? If I'm successful in removing them, feel free to give me a call when you are down these neck of te woods - I'll buy you a pint or 4.
Many thanks,
Frenchy
I need help with my Android phone if any of you could be so kind. I have a Samsung Galaxy Ace which so far, has proved to be an awesome little tool which I love dearly. However, I have had problems with it lately concerning the (lack of) internal storage.
It fills up too easy! I have an SD card and everything that can be moved onto there, is. Unfortunately, some apps like Facebook are huge memory hogs and cannot be moved. I also have an abundance of "in-built" apps that I do not want or need yet I cannot delete them. I have worked out that the in-built apps are taking up at least 60mb of storage!! I've done some research, and everything says I need to root the phone to remove these apps.
My question is, could one of you guys please give me a step by step guide on how I root my phone and remove these bloody apps? If I'm successful in removing them, feel free to give me a call when you are down these neck of te woods - I'll buy you a pint or 4.
Many thanks,
Frenchy
Hah!
Nice car Dan. At this rate, you'll be in an M3 soon....probably.
Oh btw, don't dye the seats yourself. Most DIY kits are just a simple dye which coats the leather, and wears off easy. Best thing to do is either get a professional to do it (They spray the leather using flexible polymer fillers) or swap them out for black M3 vaders or even just a standard black leather interior. Vaders are coming down in price now. I put some into my old M3 'vert. Very comfortable!
That won't work. The XRG would still need a turbo to accurately simulate turbo sounds.
No thanks. Much prefer it with the sound deadening in!
Hah! Could also be argued that Norwegians do too...Or us Brits timewarped from the '80s!
Also, I finally managed to get the chrome off, and it's currently drying. Success! IN YOUR FACE CAR!!
Germans have moustaches too!
OT, I'm annoyed! Trying to get the rear chrome piece off but can't do it. Amazing how I can rebuild automatic gearboxes with ease, yet am stumped by a piece of trim.
I've took off all the inner boot panels, sound proofing (was full of it! Impressed.) and have managed to pop the bottom half off but the top is stuck firmly in place. STUPID HONDA. Testament to the rival beating build quality I suppose!
Thanks! Yeah also blacked out the chrome surround inside the headlights, but left the reflector part alone obviously. They basically look like ATR headlights now. I cant stand chrome either. I will colour code the chrome eventually, but sprayed them black for now.
Your Civic is looking good. Your headlights would look nice done like mine. The process on your headlights is almost the same as mine, so if you need any help let me know!
Edit: Is it me or are your civics mirrors identical to my accords?
Ah I see. I suppose from that angle they do look faded.
I will be wetsanding them and giving the lenses a refining polish at some stage.
Thanks for the comments!
Fly, what did you mean by saying it looks older?
Fly, what did you mean by saying it looks older?
Before:
After:
Quite happy with the front end now, until I get the car resprayed. Just wanted to get rid of the horrible chrome and blacked out the headlights. Will eventually end up getting a Type-R grill and paint the chrome the same blue as the body. Not everyone likes what I have done with the car, but it makes it look more aggressive IMO, so it's all good in my eyes!
After:
Quite happy with the front end now, until I get the car resprayed. Just wanted to get rid of the horrible chrome and blacked out the headlights. Will eventually end up getting a Type-R grill and paint the chrome the same blue as the body. Not everyone likes what I have done with the car, but it makes it look more aggressive IMO, so it's all good in my eyes!
Never heard of them before...Google any help?
Would be curious to see how they work. I always thought CV joints would have to be soft and flexible to allow for movement. Wouldn't hard ones pop off?
Would be curious to see how they work. I always thought CV joints would have to be soft and flexible to allow for movement. Wouldn't hard ones pop off?
What did you buy the 75 for Jack? Spares?
My Mom had a brand new 75 CDTi Connoisseur Auto many moons ago. Was a nice cruiser, and looked nice in black.
My Mom had a brand new 75 CDTi Connoisseur Auto many moons ago. Was a nice cruiser, and looked nice in black.
That is shocking! :o
In England, all I got was a name and contact number, no address or anything. I'm still in shock that it's so easy to do that in Finland, and yet nothing has been done to change it...
In England, all I got was a name and contact number, no address or anything. I'm still in shock that it's so easy to do that in Finland, and yet nothing has been done to change it...
Do you speak from experience, or is that just a general remark?
I've tracked down two cars using the registration. Both times involved having to contact the DVLA and give them the registration, paying a fee and waiting around 3-4 months for a reply. I also had to leave two forms of I.D, so could of quite possibly become a suspect if the car was to be stolen soon after making an owner enquiry.
So IMO, unless you have goons dotted around the country trying to find the car, I think it's very unlikely it will get stolen because someone on the net saw the car. Nowadays, thieves are told by the bosses to look out for particular makes and models of cars, which are then stolen with the keys and stripped down. I doubt an old Mk3 Golf will come up on a crime mobs hitlist! The only person ever likely to steal that car would be a young joyrider who came across it by chance!
Edit: Wow. Never thought it would be that easy! It's much trickier in England, although I live in Ireland now so have no idea what it's like here.
Jesus....Bit of a reaction from you there Tomba! If you can read this, I'm sorry for offending you. That wasn't my intention. I was just asking a question.
All I was asking is why would you bother going through the extra effort for little or no reward. Yes, it is possible for someone to trace you from your licence plate, but not without a lot of work. Also, I can't imagine there's lots of Mk3 Golf estates with GTI kits, those wheels and the window stickers, so already your car sticks out like a sore thumb. Niall got it right with what he said too. The people on the road that see your car are the ones worth worrying about.
Again, sorry if I offended you Tomba. Hope your ban isn't too long!
All I was asking is why would you bother going through the extra effort for little or no reward. Yes, it is possible for someone to trace you from your licence plate, but not without a lot of work. Also, I can't imagine there's lots of Mk3 Golf estates with GTI kits, those wheels and the window stickers, so already your car sticks out like a sore thumb. Niall got it right with what he said too. The people on the road that see your car are the ones worth worrying about.
Again, sorry if I offended you Tomba. Hope your ban isn't too long!
Why do you keep blurring your number plate?
I don't think you have to worry about someone stealing that thing.
I don't think you have to worry about someone stealing that thing.
No-one can give you an idea on how long it will last as every 2-stroke is different. I've seen an Aprillia RS125 last 3,000 miles before it blew up, and a Honda NSR125 go onto over 40,000 miles before it showed signs of wear. Neither bike is more reliable, it's just that one was better looked after than the other.
First thing you should do, is this. Take the bike out, and get it upto temparature. Once it's warm, take it for a ride and give it a good thrashing going high in the revs. Don't be abusive, just ride fast so it gets nice and hot. After you have done that for a few mies, go straight back home and get the spark plug out to do a compression test. Have a look at the colour of the spark plug, as it gives you an indication of how it's running.
BLACK - It's burning oil. Could be a sign of worn piston rings. Not good, but the Bike will still run for many miles so no need to panic.
BROWN/COPPER - Perfect. Engine is running with a good air/fuel mixture.
WHITE - Engine is running lean, and getting too hot in the bores. It's a ticking time bomb!
After that, do a compression test. Look online or in the manual for the amount of P.S.I you are looking for, then put the compression tester on, and crank the engine until the pressure won't go any higher.
After the compression test, give it a good service. Do this even if the previous owner said he done it. It costs barely anything, and it means you have peace of mind and can get to know how your bike works. Change the plug (get spares), check/change the air filter, check sprockets etc and give it a good clean. Then enjoy your Bike for the summer!
Hope that helps!
First thing you should do, is this. Take the bike out, and get it upto temparature. Once it's warm, take it for a ride and give it a good thrashing going high in the revs. Don't be abusive, just ride fast so it gets nice and hot. After you have done that for a few mies, go straight back home and get the spark plug out to do a compression test. Have a look at the colour of the spark plug, as it gives you an indication of how it's running.
BLACK - It's burning oil. Could be a sign of worn piston rings. Not good, but the Bike will still run for many miles so no need to panic.
BROWN/COPPER - Perfect. Engine is running with a good air/fuel mixture.
WHITE - Engine is running lean, and getting too hot in the bores. It's a ticking time bomb!
After that, do a compression test. Look online or in the manual for the amount of P.S.I you are looking for, then put the compression tester on, and crank the engine until the pressure won't go any higher.
After the compression test, give it a good service. Do this even if the previous owner said he done it. It costs barely anything, and it means you have peace of mind and can get to know how your bike works. Change the plug (get spares), check/change the air filter, check sprockets etc and give it a good clean. Then enjoy your Bike for the summer!
Hope that helps!
Jesus christ...Why would you all do such silly stuff for faded plastics? Engine Oil? HEAT GUN?! 
AutoGlym Bumper Care is your answer. Pretty cheap, 1 bottle will last you ages, and the stuff leaves a layer of glossy protection which is resistant to water. Also lasts a long time too!
AutoGlym Bumper Care is your answer. Pretty cheap, 1 bottle will last you ages, and the stuff leaves a layer of glossy protection which is resistant to water. Also lasts a long time too!
You call LFS stale, yet you have only experienced around 5% of what it has to offer...
IRONIC.
IRONIC.
My god. How on earth did he manage to get hit by a train out of all things,
Poor guy.
Poor guy.
Hmm I see. Well to be honest, it's by no means a high quality sub in terms of build quality. The standard wiring was pretty terrible and as thick as a strand of hair, but I've since upgraded it. It is possible it's running too much power. At first it was running with an in-built amp, which sounded "ok" but I started having issues with the sub cutting in an out, which lead onto it blowing the fuses for the amp and battery lead. I then fitted a 1000watt Kenwood amp I had, which solved the issue and now means the subwoofer sounds much, much better but then the lead melted.
I guess this will do for now. Once the car is bloser to being finished, then I can look into fitting a better system and will most likely fit a seperate battery.
Edit: Sounds good Tomba! I'm rather different, as I just LOVE loud bass which shakes your whole body, which this sub manages pretty well for such a cheap unit! I'm running the standard bose speakers that my car came with at the moment, which are pretty decent (2 in each front door, 1 in each rear.) but I do have some tweeters and mids to go in, and crossovers, which came from one of my old cars. I forgot the model names, but I'll take a looksie tomorrow.
Last edited by Nathan_French_14, .
Mmm, box and sub look sexy. What you running?
My sub is only something like 550 watts RMS, but it hits the low tones really hard and goes well with my amp.
You able to offer any advice btw Tomba? I recently had to perform a repair on the sub, as the wire going from the sub connection to the coil had gotten hot and seperated from the cone. I was wondering if you could tell me why it had gotten so hot, and how I could stop it from happening again. For now, my dodgy repair is working well and will do until I upgrade the sub and amp when I fit my mids/tweeters that I have laying around. It's just I was curious as to why it happened in the first place. One friend has said that it might be because I run the subwoofer so hard, and that the voltage might be dipping below 12volts, which is not recommended apparently.
Any help?
My sub is only something like 550 watts RMS, but it hits the low tones really hard and goes well with my amp.
You able to offer any advice btw Tomba? I recently had to perform a repair on the sub, as the wire going from the sub connection to the coil had gotten hot and seperated from the cone. I was wondering if you could tell me why it had gotten so hot, and how I could stop it from happening again. For now, my dodgy repair is working well and will do until I upgrade the sub and amp when I fit my mids/tweeters that I have laying around. It's just I was curious as to why it happened in the first place. One friend has said that it might be because I run the subwoofer so hard, and that the voltage might be dipping below 12volts, which is not recommended apparently.
Any help?
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