that's better than what they're offering me right now... last year they told us they were rolling out FTTH/FTTB, and all we have now is a buggy DOCSIS-3... not to mention they're charging $200/month for 30/1.5 on it... the highest DOCSIS-2 package is what i'm currently using... $100/month for 16/1... and those are the business packages, because of all the port blocks put in place by the ISP to prevent home users from running mail/web servers.
and people wonder why i hate telecom in north america.
edit: i would gladly pay $100/month if i could get a symmetrical connection, even if it's only 10/10, or worse, 5/5.
V(voltage) = I * R
I(impedance, current) = V / R
R(resistance) = V / I
that's what keeps your car from dying on the road when you've got a bad battery (the exception being when you end up using all your available electrical power)... if you can't charge the battery, you can't crank the engine, regardless of the voltage.
i could be wrong, but i think the current is more important than the voltage for starting.
that's because they moved everything worthwhile to "user profiles" and those can grow to multiple gigabytes for each user that ever logged into the pc.
i've had this windows pc for a couple years now and it's already at 2gb. imagine what an always-logged-in, heavy-use user's profile would accumulate.
that's taking the easy way out, and not entirely practical. for me to change the volume on my tv, requires me to get up and change it on the tv, because my remote is broken. the only button that works on it is the input select button.
i like this suggestion, but only because the STD cars are super quiet in relation to the GTR's and the top-end SS cars. (the BF1 is really loud - changing back and forth between cars can be disorienting due to the volume differential) if they could do it on a car-by-car or a class-by-class basis, i'd be fine with that.
yeah, i think we had that conversation here before, talking about driving downhill... but since we're talking about engine braking, doesn't that wear your clutch out more?
word of advice, save often, and backup the save files often. while SC4 can provide hours of fun, it's not fun when it decides to fudge up and trash your save files.
edit: and grab yourself a copy of Network Addon Mod (NAM). it'll help deal with traffic overflowing the roads. Network Widening Mod (NWM) is another good addon for multi-laned roads, but i found it rather confusing to use for highways, so i just use the standard maxis highways.
this. on the playback options there should be a slider for the microphone. bear in mind that you also need to slide one on the record options, and IIRC, they're not linked so you will have to adjust both to your tastes. (so you're not deafening yourself or whoever plays back the recorded audio [if applicable])
this sounds like another mtv3 or v1... trying to pass off LFS as if it was their own creation... then again, their website clearly states "powered by" LFS...
wouldn't it be more economical to just put your foot on the clutch the instant you know you need to slow down, and brake it out? i know "they" tell you not to do that because you might need engine power to avoid an accident, but i don't see the difference between taking your foot off the brake and taking your foot off the clutch...
could be heat, but if it doesn't do it when you're doing other things, it's probably not that...
i'm more inclined to say that the onboard video drivers suck so bad that they don't cause things to crash, and the machine just hardlocks. i've had that happen to me years ago with the intel 810E chipset. it just didn't like certain openGL calls. try with a real video card.
that's not exactly a fair test, because it's not the same trip both ways, between weather and the road's elevation changes... even if you did drive the same path twice it still wouldn't be a fair test because of the weather... if you did the same trip at the same time using two cars, it would still be unfair because each car isn't built (and operates) equally.
if you're below the power band (ie: gear too high, speed too low), and you put your foot on the gas, it's going to try dumping as much fuel into the cylinders as it can. when you take your foot off the gas, it deceases that fuel flow to idle levels. even though the engine isn't rotating as much at lower speeds, i would have to believe the former uses more fuel.
on a side note though, i don't know how EFI would play into this, i'm only going by what i remember from school. i would imagine that EFI throws my theory into chaos because of all the electronic mapping involved.
optimally, you want to keep a road car under 4000rpm. from a dead stop, an 5 speed automatic would probably want to start WOT in 2nd, go to 3rd, then 4th. but by the time you get into 4th, you're probably going ~100-120kmh and most likely, the second you lift your foot off the gas, the overdrive gear will engage. but again, more electronic mapping, it'll vary car-to-car.