Quote from sam93 :

So guys, what 1.0 cars do you think will be best? *excluding a Mini.

Just want a nippy car for a 1.0, goodish handling and cheap to insure. A 1.0 with Adrian Flux is about £1,300 TPFT

As 1.0Ls go, I found the Yaris to be about the quickest. ~70BHP, and dirt cheap to insure (less than €600 for me ). They're fairly quick, and handle well. Don't expect it to be a rocket though, it is still a 1.0L. And they can be expensive if you want a fairly good one...You should definitely wait until you're 18 though, it'll halve your premium

BTW, the 1.0L Minis are pants in my opinion. Having driven both, it needs the 1.3, otherwise it just feels too sluggish Even at the 1.3, it still puts out less BHP than the 1.0 Yaris

And thus, the Eurovision evolves into a cameraman olympics. Can't be any worse anyway

Sounds very interesting. RAC is such an under-used car

Buy a cheap-o USB extender cable in a 99p store, chop off the end, and send them that. Maybe I have an old style connector, but my G25 USB head doesn't say Logitech on it, just the USB symbol

Quote from Bose321 :

The kitteh has a finger in the middle of it's paw.

That good sir is a paw pad

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Shit.. I was onto a winner with that as well!

Hi-Four, surely?

Quote from DevilDare :

Can you please take it down? I dont see how its ****ing funny.....

He's from PETA :bananadea

I've skipped the last two pages, so forgive me if the idea has been shot down or whatever. The Mini is a great idea though, I got one two days ago. It'll be €1200-ish to insure when I'm 18, and €310 to tax for a year. They are a lovely car, especially for a first car. They're extremely personalisable, without going for Astra-van ricery. There's almost an infinite amount of setups you can make with all of the restoration parts available for inside and out, compared to bolting pieces of plastic onto an Astra.

Plus there's plenty of grunt from the engine as standard (I have the 1275, which ~80% of the ones from the 90's are), and they're easily tunable (Last issue of MiniWorld did a feature on a BMW-produced supercharger kit available for around £1300 for carbed models, for example, which almost quadruples BHP). You also feel you're going twice as fast as you really are when cornering, which is excellent fun. There's no need of doing suspension mods to them either, they have rubber cone suspension, which has about 3mm of travel And when you inevitably do have a crash or tip, body panels are dirt cheap (My nearside A-panel has dabs of rust around the bottom edge, but a new panel is £14 delivered for example).

Why don't you wait until you're 18 before insuring your own car though? My named driver policy at the moment on a 1.0L is €600, compared to about €3500 if I was to insure it on my own. If you did get a Mini, you could let one of your parents insure it as a second car, with you as named driver. A lot of people insure Minis as a "weekend" car, so it wouldn't look dodgy. It would look far less suspicious than if you did the same thing with a modern car anyway...You still have a bike to keep you going until you're 18 if you decided to wait altogether. Think of the amount of money you could save towards petrol, tax and tyres, not to mention and mods you're planning

Quote from Bean0 :

Think the desktop icons in Vista and Windows 7 are a bit too big ?

Simply hold CTRL and use your mousewheel to adjust the size.

I knew it worked in folders, but never tried it on the desktop. Cool

Quote from Danny LFS :

And selling InSim programs should be disallowed, as is with the license (You can't sell your license).

Sorry, what? InSim programs have nothing to do with LFS. It's not like you need to get a license from Scawen himself to be able to make them. They use a free and open protocol to connect to LFS, and the creator is free to put whatever licensing restrictions they like on them. Next you'll be saying it should be disallowed to sell .NET programs, as you're not allowed to sell your Windows license

Seriously, think about what you are saying, before you say it. You won't sound so laughable that way

Yes, you can strip the colours from the player's name, like this:


I haven't tested this, I've just done it quickly. It should be close enough to what you're looking for though

Quote from chavm481 :

the scirocco is due by the end of the month so you know.

Says who?

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking of adding in cork, instead of trying to melt in solder. I could cut it out from a wine bottle cork, to the exact diameter needed. I'll try that first, and failing that, I'll break out the soldering iron

The last time I tried putting it back together was around 4AM, which didn't work out. If I did it properly this time I should get it

Quote from logitekg25 :

with a shorter spring it is spreading the force aplied force among a shorter range, and the metal is so the ball is still in the holes. i take it you used a airsoft bb? i wish i did that.

Yes, a 6mm one. I found it still had a slight click, but I plastered the BB and plate with trailer hub grease afterwards, which silenced it. I might try the shorter spring too, but I'll do it gradually, until I find a realistic setting. It'll probably take years to put it back together each time though, especially trying to screw the plate back in, trying to keep the spring and BB in place. That gave me awful trouble the last time

Quote from logitekg25 :

are you this guy??



thats my plan, once i make my cockpit ofcourse.

No, I mounted mine on a small square of plywood, which I screwed into my desk. I can't move it around, but it's only 6 bolts to release the pedals, and it takes 5 mins to mount them back in the original plastic housing afterwards

I've done the inverted pedal mod, and it feels much better. I even measured them out to be the same as my own car when I was mounting them. I'm not much faster like this, but I find it easier for longer stints, as I don't need to keep my left foot rested on the clutch, I can move it to the side and onto the floor.

I've also done the shifter mod, but I started out trying to get rid of the click. I did this by replacing the ball bearing with a plastic one (contrary to popular belief, the spring has nothing to do with the noise, it's the metal BB slotting into the holes that causes the click). It was slightly bigger than the old one though, so it has compressed the spring a little bit more (about 2mm extra), which makes it a bit stiffer.

I'm happy with my mods, and would recommend anyone to do them. I haven't heard of cutting the spring and replacing with solid metal though

Congrats mate, amazing time

If I ever found the motivation, I'd love to start running again. I'm too lazy

Quote from Shadowww :

Useful link for you

Useful link for you - T'is called dialects

Quote from DHRammstein :

I don't argue on the internet, so I won't play your immature game.
...
How dare you call me a dick, you don't know me. Just another pussy talking shit behind the safety of a computer screen. Think about how ignorant it was of you to say that, seriously. You wouldn't like being called a TOOL either, unless it has some other meaning where you dudes are from.

Thanks for calling me a dick. What the hell is wrong with you? I'll ask a mod to delete this thread since you guys can't help but call each other dicks and tools. I hope you see how pathetic it is to say such things on a forum. Don't think for a second it means anything, but I like this forum, and would prefer that language were left off the board
...
Jeez, grow the hell up ppl, so sad you can get offended by simple text on a computer screen.

Irony much?

Also, you never mentioned warranty. You said the store gave you 30 days to return it, which anyone would assume is a warranty. Also, I can't believe that the manufacturer expects you to send it to them at your expense? The store is obliged to take it back, and send it back to the manufacturer

If the PSU fan doesn't work, why didn't you bring it back straight away, or when it stopped working? And if you've already tested everything else, why haven't you at least tried another PSU? If you know so much about it, and have tried everything else, why are you even asking here

I'm not easily offended by what people say to me either, especially in digital form. If you get so worked up that easily over a piece of advice, I'd highly doubt you're in USMC. And I don't jump down others' throats because they've made an assumption, due to lack of information.

(BTW, you might be a Marine, whoop-dee-doo. That's just internet tough-guy talk. I'm Irish RDF for what it's worth :shrug

The manager is not doing you any favours, despite what he's telling you. Don't take any crap from him about getting credit, it's not your problem at all. It has a warranty, so you can bung it back as faulty with a receipt at any stage within the 5 years, to get a repair, replacement or refund, of your choice (that's your options over here anyway, the least you're entitled to is a replacement). If the manufacturer doesn't accept returns (which is nonsense, otherwise there wouldn't be a 5 year warranty), it's still your entitlement to get a replacement to a faulty item.

That heat definitely shouldn't affect a PSU, that's only 20°C, which isn't hot at all. Have you probed the motherboard's northbridge and southbridge for temps? I find my northbridge can get very hot during the summer, up in the 60s and 70s, celcius, unless I crank up the fans. Have you checked that all fans are working, including the PSU fan?

Also you should run a memtest, to rule out RAM. You might think it isn't the problem, but our Dell suddenly decided to start randomly locking up until I removed half of its RAM (It came with 256MB, I put in 3GB, exact same specs as the original stuff). It was working fine with the upgraded RAM for about 6 months before the trouble started.

When you say the CPU and GPU temps are fine, how fine is fine after a good Crysis session (I know what you mean about it giving a good workout, it's the best stress test I've found for the whole system )? Have you considered you might be putting it under more stress during the day, than during the night?

If it's not the PSU, it could be literally anything. A PC restarting is such a broad problem, you need to narrow it down. The easiest thing to test is the RAM, as you can run memtest and leave it overnight or whatever. After that you need to carefully monitor temperatures while playing Crysis or whatever to get it worked up. Also, make sure that there isn't a BIOS setting that makes the machine reboot or shutdown if the temps get above a certain value. Unlikely, but it could be

Also, no need to be such a dick to those trying to help you. Nowhere does it mention a warranty in your OP.

Quote from mutt107 :

i smell fanboy.
seriously

I smell yet another 360 vs PS3 (vs Wii lately) flame war, agree with me, or you're wrong style. Seriously.

Try Super Converter. It's worked with 99% of things I've thrown at it

Won't be able to make July, sorry...Even if the dates suited, I don't think I could make it due to a lack of funds anyway

Quote from Chupacabras84 :

So you pay for hi res so you can say there is no difference?
But you wouldnt like to see hi res for free?
Dont get it...

No, I don't pay for hi-res skins, for the reasons I've stated. You can still download them separately and put them in your LFS folder. I have most of my teammates' skins in hi-res in my LFS folder. I can't notice anything between those that are hi-res and lo-res when racing, I still know who's who though

The only reason you need skins is to have an idea of who's who on the track. When you're racing, you're not thinking how the skin of the guy in front of you would look better in hi-res. Hi-res skins might look good in the garage, but once you're racing I'd doubt that 90% of people will notice the quality.

I haven't noticed any difference between hi-res and lo-res when racing, I don't even look at what the skin is about, just its general pattern and colour, and maybe the number if it's big enough. It's much better than using names over cars that way

Quote from danthebangerboy :

If only i had known back in the 90's that there would be a way to 'buff out' scratches on discs in the future. I must have thrown away literally hundreds of cds over the years that were scratched.

I sent a couple of game DVDs away to get them professionally done after they stopped working, and they worked perfectly afterwards. You can get home kits now too, I got one a while back that does an OK job