It's unchecked here since I installed realtek, I found it made things far too quiet

I don't think it's FPS related though, mine usually gets around 250-300 FPS, as I've only been playing LFS in single player recently

I don't think it's mic related either, all my input channels are disabled, and playback and recording muted when not in use

It's hard to explain it alright, it sounds exactly like if you loop a mic into a playback feed. If I have WMP open, it jams for a few seconds. If I stop the music, and minimise LFS, the reverberations stop. But if I play the music again, it starts echoing again. The only fix I've found is to plug the headphones out and in again, and shift+w in LFS.

I've been using dual screen for every day work for the last 6 months or so, and I couldn't go back to single screen now. I haven't tried triple (yet ) but I'd say it'd be even better. As for gaming though, I haven't tried it properly. Triple screen is best for that

Display your current server in MSN with this InSim addon

Set your LFS client info in the ini file, and make sure "Show what I'm listening to" is active in MSN. Join a server, and it'll show the server name. Either close the app or leave the server, and it'll disappear. Tested working with MSN 8.5 and 9.0 (build 14).

Quote from xlilsoldi3rx :

Ah ok thanx, erm apart from the online is there any single player aspects to these games e.g earning money and buying cars or any story interactions. Thanx

No, but if you're into that kinda thing, there's cruise servers on LFS that do exactly that

Quote from G!NhO :

Plus that adss unrealisticness to have multiple reset options.

In what way is having ANY reset realistic?

The most realistic would be to reset with the same damage. If you were to "reset" on a real track, the marshalls would tip you back over or put you back on track, whatever. They wouldn't repair your car It should also have a delay of maybe 20-30 seconds in-game, to simulate the time the marshalls would take, IMO.

For me, it can happen at any time, it can't be reproduced at will. I could be sitting in the pits with the engine running, or I could be out racing. It's only LFS it happens in though, and only in the test patches.

Quote from Shadowww :

If you think drifters can't have opinions, you can't have them too - you are cruiser

Not for the last ~14 months

Quote from ForceRunnner :

Think about us drifters

No

I "think" there are more rFactor users online at any one time, but the problem is they're all spread out over different tracks/cars/mods. In LFS you can join any server instantly and play away.

It's down to whichever you find the best to drive really. LFS is far more "realistic", but rFactor has a huge array of mods to choose from

Quote from Rauen :

It's now proven: IT IS Realtek related bug.

Sorry for contributing to the horrible endless pit of spammyness, but I have this too, only when using LFS. I use realtek for my sound card, but the weird thing is, it only happens when I'm using headphones, which use a c-media driver. It is test patch related though, it only happens in Z10/13. It makes my entire sound lock up, if I have WMP open it affects that too. My solution was to unplug the headphones and plug them back in. It doesn't only happen when stalling, I found it can happen at any time

Damnit, must have missed that

Even weirder, the XFR is LHD. Eric, the graphics guy, drives RHD cars

It could do something a bit better, maybe give a grinding sound until you disengage the clutch or go back to neutral. It should only go in if the revs match or are close enough at least (with a nice grinding noise then). If they don't match, it shouldn't be possible to stay in gear. Maybe if it happens for a certain amount of time over the course of a race the car konks out or something, I dunno

It doesn't work right though, all you need to do is put it into neutral, let the revs fall a bit, put it into the next gear and give it some throttle. When it reaches the right RPM it "automagically" shifts up. It's much faster to do it with a clutch anywho

Quote from Bawbag :

Diesles are actually easier to learn in, they can practicly go in first gear without any throttle.... My big brother learned in a very old audi 80 diesle with over 200k on the clock, was the easiest thing in the world to drive.

That's going to make matters far worse when he realises that petrols are far better and tries taking off at the lights

If you just want a shedload of power, get a Hilux. Ours can physically throw you into the seat if you put the boot down in 3rd from as low as 1000RPM, even going uphill. It could take off in 4th if you wanted to, with just a touch of throttle. They're RWD for some dorito action, AWD for off-road action and there's plenty of rear space for all of your audio equipment and chinese deliveries. They're also dirt cheap to tax and insure as a commercial, and there's no rear windows to have to board up for that either. We have ours registered as a farm vehicle (same as commercial as far as I know) and it's ~€100 per person on the insurance, regardless of license/age, and something like €60 to tax it for the year.

Plus, they'll murder any of your Audis in a straight line race. Ours is 3L turbo'd and intercooled, putting out about 140BHP with 350lb/ft of torque according to the manual If you drive it sensibly (you won't though, you'll find yourself redlining to squeeze out every drop of torque :shy you can get up to 30mpg according to some people too

Something to think about anyway, only problem is price. Ours is '06, no idea about the earlier mark

E:

Quote from sam93 :

Fixed.

...

Quote from morpha :

Why not simply add a player flag indicating that the player completed the training? Leave the handling to the hosts and their InSim apps

+1

As amp says, the training needs to be perfected, really, especially the AI. But, an InSim NPL flag for training completion would be brilliant (and maybe a byte representing the average/lowest rating the player scored in training), to pick out the complete novices from those that have at least some experience

Why are you even thinking about getting a 1.9 TDI Audi as your first car? How do you think you're even going to afford it, with tax, insurance, petrol, tyres and the regular panel-beating you'll need? If you did want something with a bit of poke, get a nice clean (on second thoughts, good luck with that :razz 1.3 turbo Glanza. They're a complete ricemobile, but at least you can learn to drive in it. A big turbo diesel is not at all suitable to learn to drive for the first time. Believe me, I learnt 6 months ago with a 1 litre (68 BHP, quick for a 1 litre though ) and it was perfect.

There's a reason why only rich, spoiled kids get to drive big cars. Because they cost so much. Remeber, only cocks drive Audis anyway

Quote from jimaxx :

Well I know it has Sata, im not as dense as I may make myself out to be :P, I just wasnt sure if it would be plug and play

Sorry, didn't mean to sound patronising

Quote from jimaxx :

...One more thing, would I have an advantage booting windows off this rather than my 80gb sata? (Im assuming the 40gb ide is like crapeldoda) or would it be better to store files on the 1tb and boot off the 80gb? cheers.

It depends which is faster. If it was me though, I'd leave Windows on the smaller drive, and use the bigger one for storage. That way Windows can load what it needs faster, and you can perform your normal file operations faster, as both aren't "competing" for drive access. The difference is minimal, but that's just me

Yup, should be plug n play. I'd be surprised if a 2 year old motherboard didn't have SATA to be honest, but you should open it up to have a look. You'll probably need to get a SATA data cable with the HDD too, but you should be OK for a SATA power connection. Again, you'll have to take a look inside and see, every PC differs

Really nice price on the drive though, I'm tempted to swap out my ancient 500GB IDE for it now

Sweet n Spicy or Doner any day I used to live on Sweet n Spicy before, they were the dogs

Quote from anbiddulph :

2 quick questions.
1) is a load temp of 60 degrees high?
2) how much of a difference does new thermal paste make? (if it hadnt been replaced aftre the fan was taken off the cpu)

1. 60 is pushing on a bit, not too dangerous if it isn't at 60 constantly though.

2. You must replace the paste if you've taken the heatsink off the CPU, as when it settles after being applied it forms an airtight seal. After removing the heatsink, you've broken that seal, causing air to block the heat's path. This could be the reason for your 60C temps too.

My car came with a K&N filter and a brand new performance exhaust kit from the previous owner, and I'm not declaring it. I'm fairly sure more's been done too, but it can't be seen without stripping the car even more. Am I a menace to society too?

Quote from sam93 :

If I have my ECU chipped and remapped I highly doubt the insurance would find out about that, so I think that it's a mod that doesn't really need to be declared.

Quote from sam93 :

I wont be driving my car like a dick on a public highway anyway, I want to build up NCB to bring my premium down. Not drive like a dick and my insurance go up tenfold lol.

Why remap your ECU (which WILL cost £100's to get done right, as it needs to be done by an actual professional with a dyno) if you're just going to pootle along like a Rover driver on a Sunday? Be under no illusions - you WILL drive the car faster than you say you will, and you more than likely will have a crash or at least a couple of good scares. It's a common trait of young male drivers

That's why I decided to get what is essentially a go-kart with doors. It feels like you're doing 80 when you do 60, and has 65mm ground clearance as standard so it sticks to the road like no-one's business. Plus it has a huge zorst and an aftermarket filter so it sounds the business too

1. Go to beginners forum.
2. Post replay.
3. Ask "How's my driving?".

Really, that's all there is to it...

Quote from logitekg25 :

whatever, i do not WANT to hi-jack the thread

Don't do it then. Problem solved