Then go find your own thread and stop hijacking Bass-Driver's one with nothing to do with layouts
The teaching here is, if you are first in a traffic queue (lights, pedestrian crossing, roundabout, etc.) you sit in 1st with the handbrake on or foot on the brake. If you're further back in the queue, put it in neutral with the clutch engaged and handbrake on.
In the test, you can do either when stopped without being penalised, regardless of where you're stopped. However, we're taught to sit in 1st at the head of a queue, as you will be penalised for hesitancy if you're not quick enough to take off.
In the test, you can do either when stopped without being penalised, regardless of where you're stopped. However, we're taught to sit in 1st at the head of a queue, as you will be penalised for hesitancy if you're not quick enough to take off.
Hmm, since I'm with a new mobile ISP while away from home for a while, I can't access FML due to their intercepting-proxy style content monitoring...FML 
It's a grade 2 fault in our driving test if you put the car into neutral at any time without the handbrake on and the car completely stopped, or if you pull in the clutch without changing gears or just before you stop. Depending on how bad the incident was, it can be counted as grade 3, which is instant fail. Getting four grade 2 faults is also an instant fail. It's a big no-no. There is no advantage to it whatsoever anyway, so there's no need to do it. It doesn't prolong engine life (at least not if you do regular maintenance), and uses more fuel. Don't do it kids 
IMO, putting the clutch in is almost as bad. What if, for some unknown reason, your brakes fail (probably due to the extra heat they're getting due to no engine braking :razz
. Your only way of slowing down is to dump the clutch, which could easily lock up the drive wheels, especially if the car is RWD, putting you into an spin. Unlikely to happen, and kind of a worst case scenario, but if you had the car in gear with the clutch out, the engine braking would help stop you flying ahead while you realise what the hell just happened.
IMO, putting the clutch in is almost as bad. What if, for some unknown reason, your brakes fail (probably due to the extra heat they're getting due to no engine braking :razz
. Your only way of slowing down is to dump the clutch, which could easily lock up the drive wheels, especially if the car is RWD, putting you into an spin. Unlikely to happen, and kind of a worst case scenario, but if you had the car in gear with the clutch out, the engine braking would help stop you flying ahead while you realise what the hell just happened.I tend to change them in the pitlane, just before stopping. I can keep the wheel straight(ish) and give the odd glance at the road to make sure some idiot isn't about to steam out of a pit garage into the side of me.
Although, if you go as low as 700 RPM, it probably is injecting fuel. This can be seen in LFS too. Drive into first, up to about 3000 RPM. Then slowly brake. The green throttle bar in the bottom right should be empty. As you reach idle speed, it'll start to automatically give it some throttle. The slower you go past idle, the more throttle it's going to give to try and keep the car going.
It's much the same in real life, ECUs are programmed to give the car some juice if it's going to stall. This isn't enough to stop you stalling at the traffic lights for example, but it is enough to keep it going when the revs drop too low.
The LFS Manual says for blue flags:
The way I interpret that, is to move off of the racing line if it makes it easier for those behind to pass you (i.e, if you're not 50 yards away from a corner), and if there's plenty of warning. You can of course hold the racing line if you want to, but you cannot battle the faster car for the position. You're not expected to slow down too much either, but again, if it makes it easier on the faster driver and it won't affect you too much, you could ease off the throttle to let him pass safely. If you do slow down, you should hit the hazards (press 9) to warn the other driver.
Due to the amount of noobage encountered online, I find it far easier to move over and make room for the faster car, to prevent being rear-ended and blamed. It saves a lot of hassle, and if you're being blue flagged, you probably weren't battling for an important position anyway
The way I interpret that, is to move off of the racing line if it makes it easier for those behind to pass you (i.e, if you're not 50 yards away from a corner), and if there's plenty of warning. You can of course hold the racing line if you want to, but you cannot battle the faster car for the position. You're not expected to slow down too much either, but again, if it makes it easier on the faster driver and it won't affect you too much, you could ease off the throttle to let him pass safely. If you do slow down, you should hit the hazards (press 9) to warn the other driver.
Due to the amount of noobage encountered online, I find it far easier to move over and make room for the faster car, to prevent being rear-ended and blamed. It saves a lot of hassle, and if you're being blue flagged, you probably weren't battling for an important position anyway
If your AVI is less than 700MB, burn it onto a CD. Most modern DVD players can play Divx discs (3/4 can in our house at least, 2 of them are a good 5 years old)
+1, especially when we have break-off wings and body panels
If Windows repair didn't sort it, it means you need to reinstall Windows.
E: Wait...My Windows 7 install doesn't have any of those dll's. It's more than likely not a Windows problem, but a problem with a program. Go through your process list (Ctrl+Shift+Esc), and kill each one that look like it shouldn't be there (you should know what I mean by that, i.e., don't go killing essential Windows processes), until those message boxes disappear. If they don't disappear, start killing the processes left behind. Make a note of the name of each one (on paper...) as you're doing it, so if Windows crashes you'll know which one not to do again. This should tell you which program is causing the popups, which will let you find it and destroy it.
E: Wait...My Windows 7 install doesn't have any of those dll's. It's more than likely not a Windows problem, but a problem with a program. Go through your process list (Ctrl+Shift+Esc), and kill each one that look like it shouldn't be there (you should know what I mean by that, i.e., don't go killing essential Windows processes), until those message boxes disappear. If they don't disappear, start killing the processes left behind. Make a note of the name of each one (on paper...) as you're doing it, so if Windows crashes you'll know which one not to do again. This should tell you which program is causing the popups, which will let you find it and destroy it.
The chamber(?) for the impeller shaft is made from magnesium on these bikes to save weight, and I'm almost sure that's the problem (magnesium + water = corrosion). It was very corroded when we got it, so we patched it up with areldite. Either there's a leak there, or it's made the chamber too small for water to flow freely. It could also be the impeller head itself, as it's slightly chewed on a couple of the turbines. I'm not that worried about it though, it only overheats after an hour of hard driving almost vertical, and I can feel it when it's getting too hot. There's no respone in the low revs when it gets too hot, and it's very noticeable. A 10 min break after 30 mins riding sorts it out Even after letting it overheat, it doesn't seize, but I'd imagine it would fairly quickly if I didn't kill it after the rad overheating.
The block, head and gasket are all perfect, the engine itself is surprisingly mint even after 17 years. Had a few plug changes, 2 over the course of 3 years I think, nothing worrying. Starts second kick every time, no matter how hot or cold it is
But that's off-topic, and has nothing to do with downhill procedures or slushboxes
Even after letting it overheat, it doesn't seize, but I'd imagine it would fairly quickly if I didn't kill it after the rad overheating.The block, head and gasket are all perfect, the engine itself is surprisingly mint even after 17 years. Had a few plug changes, 2 over the course of 3 years I think, nothing worrying. Starts second kick every time, no matter how hot or cold it is
But that's off-topic, and has nothing to do with downhill procedures or slushboxes
Post up some replays of the problem, and I'm sure someone will take a look for ya
Definitely not, it's not recommended to bump/push start a car at all, as it leads to petrol getting into the exhaust system, which eats the cat. Whether the short time required to bump start going downhill makes any difference, I don't know
I wouldn't use high revs, I meant normal road use. If it was track or competition use, petrol efficiency doesn't matter
I've been running this bike for 3 years now, engine is still using the original parts from 17 years ago. When it's out, it gets a fair thrashing (full throttle up through the gears to 6th, rev limiter was removed before I got the bike), hasn't needed anything done yet, apart from an unknown cooling problem. After climbing for too long, it just blows steam from the rad cap (into my face unfortunately ) and needs to be refilled. But that's a side issue, it's been like that since the day I bought it.I engine brake in my car too, but at sensible revs, usually in 3rd or even 4th. For a 1 litre it has surprisingly good engine braking power
It uses pre-mix. I have no idea what way it works, but even holding the kill switch down while going downhill makes no difference, it just keeps making the same noise (so I presume the engine is burning or not burning the same). If it's doing a good bit of engine braking it seems to use fuel though, as it puts it under load. I haven't really looked into this on the bike, it's just my own experiences. It's all off-road stuff anyway, so fuel efficiency makes no odds
My car loses servo'd brakes after 2-3 goes on the pedal once the car is off. Nigh-on impossible to stop it without the servo assistance, the pedal feels like it has a rock underneath it. Power steering goes almost instantly, but it's still very drivable without it.
I don't get why you'd put the car into neutral while going downhill though. In fact, you're probably using more fuel when ticking over in neutral, rather than leaving the car in gear going downhill. When you're going downhill, with your foot off the throttle, it's using the car's momentum to keep the engine running. It sounds completely different, as it isn't combusting to keep the engine running. It's also a bit easier on the brakes, as the engine is doing some of the braking. Try it yourself, my fuel usage-ometer goes to 0.0 l/100km when going down a significant hill with the throttle off, compared to 0.8l/100km with the clutch in (and 0.6l/100km when idling at rest for some reason)
Assuming you're using fuel injection of course, as most carbs still use fuel in this case. Although my bike (carb'd 250cc 2-stroke) cuts fuel when I'm not on the throttle as far as I know. If you go downhill in-gear with the engine off, it sounds exactly the same as going with the engine on
I don't get why you'd put the car into neutral while going downhill though. In fact, you're probably using more fuel when ticking over in neutral, rather than leaving the car in gear going downhill. When you're going downhill, with your foot off the throttle, it's using the car's momentum to keep the engine running. It sounds completely different, as it isn't combusting to keep the engine running. It's also a bit easier on the brakes, as the engine is doing some of the braking. Try it yourself, my fuel usage-ometer goes to 0.0 l/100km when going down a significant hill with the throttle off, compared to 0.8l/100km with the clutch in (and 0.6l/100km when idling at rest for some reason)
Assuming you're using fuel injection of course, as most carbs still use fuel in this case. Although my bike (carb'd 250cc 2-stroke) cuts fuel when I'm not on the throttle as far as I know. If you go downhill in-gear with the engine off, it sounds exactly the same as going with the engine on
It's what's in it that matters
=
It is what is in it that matters
You don't use an apostrophe in possessive, but this isn't possessive, it's abbreviation
/grammar
=
It is what is in it that matters
You don't use an apostrophe in possessive, but this isn't possessive, it's abbreviation
/grammar
Woah...
Theory Exam - €30
Medical - €30
Eye Test - €40
Provisional - €10
Practical Test - €75
Lessons - €~100, optional though...
Definitely worth it though
Is it just me or have BC blatantly taken their learner licensing system from LFS cruise servers?
Over here you do a theory test (35/40 minimum), then apply for a learner permit, then you can only drive accompanied by someone who has held a full license for 2+ years. After 6 months, you can sit a practical and another theory, which, if you pass, gives you a full unrestricted license. Only problem is, waiting lists for this are minimum 10 weeks. They used to be well over 10 months, but there was no accompanying rule back then, so there was pretty much no difference between a provisional and full license
I'm currently waiting for a date for my practical, I got one a week ago but had to cancel, so waiting again
As for the lessons, it's recommended over here to get at least 2 or 3. Some people need more, but the test is very stringent and pedantic, so some professional preparation is advised. I've had 3, and I'm going for one more when I get my test date
* runs *
I've put together a simple little app that'll tell you the current server you're on, and the current track. Setup the ini file to your liking, join a server, and type "/i info". It's only a small little thing, but it's an improvement. If I get time I'll add proper buttons, to look like Flame's screenshot
That looks very empty, I'd swear there were more cars in GT2. Hopefully the full list will be a bit bigger
Believe me, you'll find it very high when you're sitting on it at speed
If you're planning on doing a good bit of on-road stuff, you'd be better off with a full-size enduro bike. This one would feel very hairy cornering on the road, due to the small wheels. I presume at 16 you're restricted to a 125cc, which should be no problem to find an enduro bike in. They're fully road usable, my dad used to ride one to work in the past. It's just my opinion, but I think an enduro bike would be a better bet
4-strokes only sound nicer if they're big bore IMO. 2-strokes have that "raspy" noise, which sounds pretty nice usually. It's the 2-stroke is whinier by the way, watch the difference:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC0O40_VIwk
The first bike is a 4-stroke, second is a 2-stroke. The 4-stroke sounds much rougher and has low-down power, whereas the 2-stroke sounds like a bee in a can and needs to stay up in the high revs. Hope that helps a bit, sorry for the poor vid, it's all I could find
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC0O40_VIwk
The first bike is a 4-stroke, second is a 2-stroke. The 4-stroke sounds much rougher and has low-down power, whereas the 2-stroke sounds like a bee in a can and needs to stay up in the high revs. Hope that helps a bit, sorry for the poor vid, it's all I could find
Mini Cooper 1.3i ‘63
Mini Cooper 1275S Rally Car ‘67
Mini Cooper “Chop Top” #3 Race Car ‘75
Mini Cooper “Red” #72 Race Car ‘75
Mini Cooper Quick 3.0i
Mini Cooper ‘98
Mini Cooper S ‘99
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {750cc} Hatchback ‘74
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {850CC} Hatchback ‘81
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {850cc} Estate ‘78
Hillman Rallye Imp ‘
Triumph TR7 Drophead ‘79
Triumph TR7 V8 Manx International Rally Car ‘78
Triumph Dolomite Sprint ‘75
Toyota Yaris TSport ‘07
For the love of god Sony, include these from the list at least :hyper: Some of the quirkier cars there, would be great fun blasting around in though
Mini Cooper 1275S Rally Car ‘67
Mini Cooper “Chop Top” #3 Race Car ‘75
Mini Cooper “Red” #72 Race Car ‘75
Mini Cooper Quick 3.0i
Mini Cooper ‘98
Mini Cooper S ‘99
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {750cc} Hatchback ‘74
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {850CC} Hatchback ‘81
Reliant Robin [Mk.1] {850cc} Estate ‘78
Hillman Rallye Imp ‘
Triumph TR7 Drophead ‘79
Triumph TR7 V8 Manx International Rally Car ‘78
Triumph Dolomite Sprint ‘75
Toyota Yaris TSport ‘07
For the love of god Sony, include these from the list at least :hyper: Some of the quirkier cars there, would be great fun blasting around in though
You are single-handedly the biggest failure I've seen today...4th time lucky maybe?
E: Eh, links removed. That's some nasty shit TVE
Last edited by dougie-lampkin, .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG