:lol:
Anyway: for me, it was the physics. Really blew me out of the water when I tried it for the first time. Plus, the community is great and there is plenty of good fun to be had online, with leagues + CTRA and whatnot.
A bit off topic, but I wonder if it would be possible to implement a feature that automatically changes graphics settings in the game to keep frame rates above a user defined minimum as the race progresses. So that in the beginning when the whole grid is in frame AA and AF and stuff would be turned down, but then as the race progresses these things would be turned on again to make the graphics better? Would that be at all possible?
I don't care what it looks like, I want to know what it feels like. The FFB sounds promising. And I think there's hope for the pedals, too.
Yes, it will, because it will allow you to feel what the car is about to do and hence take appropriate action to prevent it from spinning out before it's already on the grass. It basically adds another dimension to racing, just like sound and visuals. You'll get to depend on it.
OK. I see Bawbag has driven 779 kilometers today, so I guess he's been driving some more too then.
Wow.. this is amazing! How long stints does each driver do? I noticed both Biohazard and Bawbag are on Mercury. I thought they only did hotlaps (they are my idols. 
), so it's cool to see them racing too!
), so it's cool to see them racing too! What does "button control rate" and "throttle/brake centre reduction" mean? I think I have them set at default still..
Only one way to fix that: be sure to get pole position.
I disagree.. in fact I love how the rear wheel drive cars behave. But in my experience it depends a lot on what setup you're using. Some convey every little move to your hands, others don't.
I think the AI drivers are fast enough, really. I'm guessing that most people only race against the AI when learning tracks and preparing for online racing, so they don't need to be like 1% off the WRs.
The main issue about the AI is of course their player awareness and ability to react accordingly. But as Scawen said, that wasn't the priority of Patch Y. Once that is in place too, it will be more than good enough for 90% of the LFS players, I'm guessing.
The main issue about the AI is of course their player awareness and ability to react accordingly. But as Scawen said, that wasn't the priority of Patch Y. Once that is in place too, it will be more than good enough for 90% of the LFS players, I'm guessing.
Have you tried it in a different game? I don't think it's LFS's problem, but if you call Logitech Support they will probably ask you to try in a different game too.
I'll investigate it when I get back home and check if it seems easy. If not, I won't bother, although it's quite annoying. (I've had some problems with Logitech wheels in the past, and I don't want to risk loosing the guarantee just because of some noise.
Hi guys!
I have a G25 and I love it, but recently both the shifter and the clutch pedal have become pretty squeaky at times. Sounds like they could use some lube. Thing is, I don't want to dismantle anything such that the guarantee gets cancelled.. Has anyone figured out a "safe-and-easy" way of lubing?
Cheers!
I have a G25 and I love it, but recently both the shifter and the clutch pedal have become pretty squeaky at times. Sounds like they could use some lube. Thing is, I don't want to dismantle anything such that the guarantee gets cancelled.. Has anyone figured out a "safe-and-easy" way of lubing?
Cheers!
Could the rubber pads underneath be dusty? Clean them off with a little water and they'll stick much better.
Who cares? It's under your table, you know.
Besides, I didn't think it turned out looking too bad myself.
Last edited by Gnomie, .
I did it too just now, and my first impression is that it's awesome!
I used 40 mm M4 screws with some pretty large washers for improved stability. On second thought I might have tried out using 50 mm or even 60 mm screws just for testing, but I don't have those available.EDIT: Been racing Aston Club with the XRG for a few days now to get the hang of it, as that track has lots of corners and hence is a very good heel&toe-learning track IMO. I just tried racing on my favourite combo (the XRT on Aston Historic), and I beat my old patchX PB three laps in a row!
Thanks for the pedal modding advice!
Last edited by Gnomie, .
This thread shows you how to correctly set up your wheel.
Do you mean that "car and helmet skins" in the game settings should be set to compressed? I tried that, but I still can't see people's skins. 
I tried watching the replay Danowat posted in the LFS general forum, but it didn't work. I still get the same message as the OP. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to manually download skins or something?
I tried watching the replay Danowat posted in the LFS general forum, but it didn't work. I still get the same message as the OP. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to manually download skins or something?Hm.. I always wondered about this. I thought the reason why we use engine braking is that the brakes alone aren't strong enough to take full advantage of the maximum frictional force between the tyres and the tarmac, meaning if you don't use engine braking your braking distance is longer than it can optimally be..? Why else would anyone use engine braking? (as in fully engaging the clutch /shifting to neutral while braking, and then shifting to the correct gear when exiting the turn?)
The main problem for me so far (I've only tried a few times to see what it's all about) is getting back on the throttle quick enough, because with my current technique I have to lift my heel off the ground. My next "big project" after New Year will be to learn it properly!
What I meant is it's quite easy to get the back end out because they're so heavy.
I'd show him the XRG with Bob's road going set. Feels close to real IMO.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG