I'm attaching the files that I used for those screenies. Apparently they end up looking different for different people.. I use both AA and AF with no problem.
Heh, seems pretty unanimous that the RAC is the most difficult one. Actually that's why it was one of the very first cars I drove in LFS: I was told that if you learn the RAC, anything else comes relatively easily. I think there is some truth to that.
I wouldn't loose sleep over being slightly slower than the WR through critical corners. Remember, you never know how many times the WR holder tried before he finally got it right. He might have skidded out in that corner nine times in a row before making it on the tenth attempt for all you know. A better indicator would be to see what kind of average laptimes the best people on online servers have. (For example in CTRA or other "serious" servers)
In that specific corner on GP Long, "entry stability" is key. For example in cars like FZ5 you can really feel it when you're about to cross that boundary and start skidding and loosing control. (That's why I tend to stick to FZ5, XRT or even XRG when learning new tracks, because they give such excellent feedback IMO) Remember, controlled corner entry --> high exit speed. You have to attack the root of the problem.
That is true. I found that it helps to use shoes with soles that aren't too "sticky". With my old shoes braking was a little difficult because of the extended arc. Now it's OK though. But I guess it's all down to personal preferences.
Indeed. But aren't they relatively cheap already, at least compared to three monitors? I'd love to try them some day. Now that
is what I call immersion.
I've tried FreeTrack, but for some reason I got really bad tearing effects on screen when looking around (my laptop monitor can't handle rapid lateral movements it seems. ) Plus I felt it was very hard to figure out the direction of the car when I wasn't looking straigh ahead. I guess that would come with more practice, but it was difficult. I'll buy an external monitor some day, and then I'll give it another go.
I use league skins (Belgium Sim Racing League) with my number and some "personal" addons mostly. On the cars where I don't have a team skin I use skins that I've downloaded from somewhere.
What exactly does the nexim mod actually do? It was kind of hard to tell from the pictures. Besides reducing brake force I mean..
If I'd seen this thread earlier I'd have recommended this quick-and-easy (and reversible) mod. It really helps for heel&toe. This is what I use (with shoes).
I played around with the settings a little and came up with something that I think works pretty well. It's very toned down and suble. Most of all it actually darkens things a little and makes it more pleasant (not so straining) on the eyes. Here's a few examples:
And he says you can't play online in the demo. He's basing his entire review on two incidents (when he spun with the XFG and when he couldn't do donuts with the XRG). Rule # 1 for reviews: make sure you test the product fully before opening your mouth.
One thing I'd like to mention: I used to have a MOMO with 270 degrees of rotation. I was struggling to get comfortable in the road cars with this wheel. The main reason was that I never seemed to find a good setting for wheel turn compensation. It is of course impossible to map 720 degrees of car wheel rotation perfectly to your 270 degrees of rotation -- some compromise must be made. You can set the wheel compensation to 0, so that when you turn your wheel 1 degree, the car's wheel turns 2,67 degrees. I found this too sensitive around the middle, so I set the wheel turn compensation to ~ 0,8. Then the steering was nice straight ahead, but then of course the problem is that as you turn your wheel further from the centre, the steering isn't linear any more. Towards the edges, 1 degree of wheel rotation might correspond to a 5 degree rotation in game. I found this terribly hard to get used to, and I ended up scrubbing my tires a lot in the corners, which induced more tyre wear.
That said, I got my G25 pretty early in my LFS "career", so it could of course be that a lot of my struggling with the MOMO was simply down to beginners' mistakes. But I feel much more at home with the G25, in all respects.
You sound like a dedicated guy, jarmenia. With that attitude you'll get far. Keep it up!
Regarding setups: I agree that setups from setupfield and such are generally very on the limit, and usually designed to last only ~5 laps. Not very useful. I recommend searching the servers on lfsworld and going online on one where people are driving the car/combo you're interested in, and asking kindly if someone could share with you a race setup. (you can specify that you're looking for a stable setup rather than a super-fast one) They probably will.
Then you use that as a base for further tweaking. Normally stuff like camber and tyre pressure are pretty intuitive if you press F9 while driving and take a look at the pressure and temperature indicators. Brakes might also need adjusting. But for most people, the fine tuning of suspension and dampers and such is just too complex. (at least for me.. :shy
I would turn that question upside down. Why buy TrackIR (which is expensive) when there are perfectly good free alternatives? Check out FreeTrack too if you haven't heard about it.
If you want to beat the AI, it often helps to get up beside them and take the racing line. This will cause them to think they're in trouble (since you're blocking the race line) and often brake down hard.
And don't worry about laptimes yet. Put priority on getting consistent first, and then the laptimes will follow. Good luck!
Indeed. Don't be put off if you can't manage to overtake the AI because of the way they drive. You should be satisfied as long as you can keep their pace (or better) throughout the race.