Quote from Gentlefoot :

Ofcourse this only works if you have run aggressive pressures that meant the tyres got very hot between say 5 and 10 laps. This means they don't get too cold when they wear thin.
.

What about cambers? I always get scared when I see that the inside of the tires warm up significantly faster. Therefore, for long races I lower the cambers to get a more flat temperature profile. But then my "problem" is that no part of the tyre ever gets orange/red, they all stay green until they get so worn that they go blue at the end of the race. I don't think this is optimal, either.. (I've only tried long races with the RAC/LX6/XRT/URF/FO8)

Quote from spankmeyer :

Quote from Karoti :

they should be...

XRT LX4 FZ5 RAC LX6

Only cars you should drive.

Heh, couldn't agree more.

Quote from Michael Denham :

I think of all the tracks, Aston and KY should be smoothest, as they seem like the highest end, newest circuits. A club circuit like Westhill or Blackwood should be bumpier I think (although Blackwood has been recently repaved with the update I guess ), and Fern Bay should be MUCH bumpier IMO.

Completely agree. I'm guessing they're working on this for the next patch. Westhill and Fern Bay are the ones which are most in need of a severe facelift IMO, particularly the road surfaces.

Seeing how overrepresented Finns seem to be in the LFS community I'm guessing this might just work out. Good luck!

Quote from PaulH :

I tried that, and multiple combinations of calibrate-lock, lock-calibrate etc etc. This was in patch X but I don't know if that would make a difference. I tried DXtweak and IIRC the same sort of thing happened. I gave up in the end and I don't have much problem shifting . . . most of the time . . . *thinking of excuses* . . . ermm only when my legs start aching for example
Thanks for your help though.

Hm... that's very weird. For me it works nicely. What I do when calibrating is:
1) Enter the Controllers section and push the clutch / brake pedal as far down as I want them to go
2) Press "recalibrate" and then release the pedals and calibrate the steering and throttle as usual
3) Click "lock calibration", and I'm done.

It stays fine even after exiting/restarting LFS. I don't understand why it works for some people and not for others..?

I'm not a setup guru, so I mostly have only two sets for each car -- one "fast" set with strong brakes and high gear ratios, and one "slow" one (for more winding circuits). The only thing I tweak is the camber + pressure based on what track it is. Only takes 30 seconds before a race. I never touch the suspension or anything like that -- that's best left to the experts.

Quote from PaulH :

From within LFS? I tried that a while back and it worked for a bit but would reset its self back to the original full distance of travel upon restarting LFS.

Just click "lock calibration" or whatever it's called when you're done calibrating.

Why not just calibrate the clutch to saturate at 1/3 travel?

Quote from dawesdust_12 :

Kev - Try explaining it to the boss that just hired you that you need the odd saturday every month off to play a car videogame?

Speaking from experience, are we?

Quote from Bawbag :

Thats the race setup I used, I know it says qual and it was actually Hannus qualifying setup, it has more psi than any set i'd made and lower cambers, so it worked pretty nice for the race.

I think "pretty nice" would be an undertstatement. Good racing.

Thanks folks! I'll start practicing tonight. At least now I can't blame the setup.

I just watched both races. Very high quality of racing (as expected)

You know, I think I'd like to practice this combo for a while now. Just to get some indication about where I'm at compared to the best. I guess the result will be disappointing, but I'd like to try anyway.

Would anyone of the racers in this event care to share their setup? Any one will do.

Quote from Gabkicks :

the biggest pluses of being on a team for me were mostly from them sharing setups since most people are stingy. and 2nd was it helped w/ race strategy a bit. sometimes a teammate wouldn't have time to figure out how tire performance would change over a race or other aspects of race strategy, and other teammates will share that information with eachother.

Agreed. I'm not in a team, but I participate in a free-for-all league. We do races every two weeks, with all kinds of cars and tracks. One of the biggest advantages, besides what Gabkicks said, is that I've learnt to drive many different cars. Normally I mostly race the LRF and TBO classes, so the league offers a great way of "forcing" myself to race other cars once in a while. It provides an incentive for learning new stuff. This way I've come to appreciate many cars that I normally wouldn't really touch.

Another "sweet spot" for the AI is with the FO8 on Westhill reversed. They all go off the track in a corner about half-way through

Quote from dmwright :

prakhar
No longer welcome

So, how many days will it be till he registers a new demo account and tries the same thing on someone else?

I think the shifter is the most fragile part, and apparently many people have had problems with them. But I thought Logitech had made some improvements since the G25 was first released to the market? I don't know. Mine works fine still.

Quote from Takumi_lfs :

1. XRT
2. South City
3. Demo
4. Fail
5. Bye!

He got pwned. I see he's no longer welcome.

Very nice!! Awesome job.

1,33 Gb here.

Yay!



Couldn't resist.. I'm tired.

Quote from mcgas001 :

Bad bit is, Hes right...

Were you actually planning on completing that race?

Or, use DDS converter 2. It's a standalone program that does the job.

Very nice Jarulf! Good singing, lyrics and guitar.

Quote from DaveWS :

Ekar, could you upload both the ini file and dll file please? I'm not sure if the dll file becomes changed in some way, because when I use your settings, I get mental bloomage.

Gnomie has the best screenies IMO. It'd be great if I could get it looking like that. I Know you posted your ini settings Gnomie, but could you post the dll as well? Cheers (http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=771640#post771640)

Hi!

I'm attaching the files that I used for those screenies. Apparently they end up looking different for different people.. I use both AA and AF with no problem.

Heh, seems pretty unanimous that the RAC is the most difficult one. Actually that's why it was one of the very first cars I drove in LFS: I was told that if you learn the RAC, anything else comes relatively easily. I think there is some truth to that.

I wouldn't loose sleep over being slightly slower than the WR through critical corners. Remember, you never know how many times the WR holder tried before he finally got it right. He might have skidded out in that corner nine times in a row before making it on the tenth attempt for all you know. A better indicator would be to see what kind of average laptimes the best people on online servers have. (For example in CTRA or other "serious" servers)

In that specific corner on GP Long, "entry stability" is key. For example in cars like FZ5 you can really feel it when you're about to cross that boundary and start skidding and loosing control. (That's why I tend to stick to FZ5, XRT or even XRG when learning new tracks, because they give such excellent feedback IMO) Remember, controlled corner entry --> high exit speed. You have to attack the root of the problem.

Good luck!