Problem is, if you tell LFS to use keyboard/mouse then the controller functionality is disabled. You can't assign Left/Right to a button (D-Pad) this way.
On the other hand, if you choose wheel/joystick you can only use an Axis to steer with.
The solution is to use mouse/keyboard (Keyboard Steering [keyboard - no help] or [keyboard stabilised] and then get a free program called Joy2Key (google it)
Then you can assign all you buttons to various keyboard keys.
eg. assign the left and right d-pad buttons to the arrow keys on your keyboard with joy2key, and make LFS use arrows keys to turn left and right.
What's also good is you can assign up to three keyboard presses with joy2key for each button. So you could enable fast steer automatically.
Interiors have been updated while ago, so maybe it's a really old file you downloaded that is no longer used in the latest version of LFS. What is the link to the wheel texture you downloaded and what verision (eg. Z, Z25, or Z28) of LFS do you use?
Maybe if we can see what you are doing we can confirm what is wrong.
You could rename that file so it won't load when LFS starts. It's located in the lfs/data/sound folder. If LFS can't locate it you will get a small warning and the sound will not work in game.
You could call it something like InvalidKey_.wav until you get your Keyboard sorted out. Then when it's fixed you can rename it back to InvalidKey.wav
Since it's been 4 days and still no-one knows what sound it is yet, can codyflick tell us if it is any of the sounds in this attachment below? Tell us the name of the file by playing each one in the attachment.
These are all systme default sounds in LFS zipped into one file
I still bounce to the moon off barriers in single player in which last time I looked, has no lag. There's some fundamental issues with collisions. Which, by the way has been mentioned in the last 18 months in the devs to-do list.
Not sure if you know yet but 180 degrees is now possible in LFS and with the screen angle option you can make it pretty acceptable. Just posting this in case it helps you, I think it might be a long time before we see such a feature.
Old version of LFS and high FOV (not great)
New multiscreen features with screen angle and high FOV
(which can still be applied with only one monitor)
settings
Also the extra views, (which I'm not saying is good or bad) would require more power from your computer system, much like the new multi-screen feature does.
I only changed the Y-Axis. This is the axis for moving the stick forwards and back.
It's supposed to be set to Min 128 Cen 192 Max 255
but then the slightest movement will pull on the handbrake ever so slightly so I use Cen 130 to give a little "dead-zone" at the stick's resting centre.
It seems like instead of using DXtweak, you can choose to recalibrate the axis in LFS and only extend the stick through the half you want to use. Then choose LOCK in LFS and then it will ignore the other half of the axis.
Long Name LCD26805HD
Manufacturer Acoustic Solutions
LED Backlight without LED Backlight Vertical Resolution in Pixel 768
Memory Stick No
Loudspeakers with Loudspeakers
Electronic Program Guide (EPG) No
DVI Interface No
DVD Player / Recorder No
DVB-S No
DVB-C No
Picture and Text (PAT) No
Secure Digital Card No
Energy Saving Trust Feature No Frequency 50 Hertz
Front AV Interface No HDMI Yes
HDTV No
Headphone Output Yes
Height in cm 54.5 cm Horizontal Resolution in Pixel 1366
Internet Access NO WEB CONTENT ACCESS
Number of HDMI Inputs 1
Number of Scart Interfaces 2
Picture and Picture (PAP) No
Picture in Picture (PIP) No
Reflection Angle 160 degree(s)
RMS Wattage 16 S-Video No
Screen Format 16:9
Screen Size in cm 66 cm
Screen Size in Inches 26 in
Type of Monitor LCD
USB No
VGA / D-Sub Interface No
Weight in kg 14.5
Width in cm 70
Brightness in Candela/m² 500
YUV Interface Yes
Depth in cm 21
Contrast Ratio (X:1) 800
Full HD without Full HD (1080p)
DVB-T without Digital Tuner
HD ready HD Ready
Yes, my manual says the same. But HDMI 1 must only be used. However I thought using the wrong port would have resulted in no signal. I suggest you change the port and use what is directed. Reboot PC after you switch it.
It is there, it's the option "Enable Stereo"
You can choose "Enable stero by hotkey" later after you get it working so you can turn it off and on when you like. For now, force it to Enable make sure it's always on.
Just use Red/Cyan. If you manage to get it working, then test it with Optimised red/cyan later. Depends on your monitor if that will work better or not.
Then when you start your games you will see this..
Press "n" a couple of times and then this..
Then get into the game on track and go through the rest of the setup sequence with the iZ3D overlay in game. You have to adjust convergence for short range and long range. When the setup is completed the screen will go much brighter. To switch the overlay off press "Shift" and "Numpad *"
You want something similar to this..
edit: tested and works with ATi HD4890
edit: AA seems to turn off automatically.
Yes, very sorry, I did mean lfs/data/engine folder.
OK, well I'm no sound expert or engineer so I don't 100% understand what you want to do, probably never will. But I suggest you export the short engine sample with [S] and edit that externally. Then resave and re-import to LFS using [L]. Mess around a bit and experiment to get what you want.
And adjust the tone variations and Exhaust volumes to get the bass levels you're after.
Reduce the wind Volume in the editor to reduce ambient sounds.
Even simply just reduce the Wind Volume Boost in the Options >> Audio menu and put up the equaliser bass on your PC audio card's settings. Might be simpler than editing individual cars.
Me >> I just turn up my Subwoofer bass volume and turn down the wind noise. Annoyingly, the low revs makes everything shake, and the car at high revs, there's not much bass to be heard.
Depends on the quality of the PSU you've got. If it's cheap and it's trying to supply too much power it might work for a while, then overheat/overload, fail and destroy your whole system.
If it's good quality then it MIGHT just drop out when too much power is drawn from it. Sometimes your system will just power off or the GPU might just turn off when booting up. Like when the CPU is too hot it just shuts down.
If it was me and I had a 400W PSU and my BRAND NEW Graphics card manual said I needed 550W min. I wouldn't risk using a low powered PSU and possibly wreck everything. But I am paranoid. You on the other hand might be a carefree spirit and believe everything will be okay.
400 isn't enough in my eyes.
The person that told you it "cant do its maximum effect" is misinformed. What do they think? It can only max out to 2xAA or something when it hasn't got enough juice? It's not a light bulb.