Which box are you ticking? in the profiler.. that is not yet enabling LFS communication to the profiler. You've probably got the correct settings in game (wheel turn comp:1) and 900 degrees.
Yes it works ~.~ BUT the wheel does not stop turning when it reaches the end of the car's lock. For example if you select a GTR, the wheel automatically responds like it has 540 degrees of lock, (just like the car has), BUT the wheel continues to turn past the full lock position. If you have the Virtual wheel turned off then you have no idea where the end stop is and you just keep turning past 540 deg for nothing.
Quite annoying. IN fact soooo annoying I just drive every car at 720 degrees cause I can't be bothered redoing my profiler everytime I change cars. There is an LFS script command /wheel_turn [xx] but you still have the same problem because the physical (irl) wheel goes past the virtual end stops.
There is now a new option in the G25 drivers, maybe the Dev's are looking at it.
Are you using custom .eng sets? I had exact same thing (loud, nasty distortion for a few seconds) for ages with my LFS until I found it was the custom .eng someone made. I installed the default one and that fixed it.
//Just trying to help.
For some reason I downloaded an old version of LFS on the weekend. It was a version of S1. The skid sounds were much more pronunced, even more so than DaveWS modified skid sound. It actually felt more realistic because there was more feedback from what the tyres were doing.
I wish I had remembered the exact version number, I'd go back and get the raw skid sounds and convert them for a try out in Version Z.
You have to restart LFS to see changed .dds files so they reload into memory. Also, older versions of LFS don't always support new releases of .dds files from www.LFS-Database.com and the forums as the game has progressed to version Z now.
After you restart LFS and the textures still don't work, try posting one or two of them here, or post a link to them, maybe someone can tell you if they are compatible with version V213... BTW what is version V213?
I have a G25 and a PS3 clone logitech Wireless pad. The pad seems to be assigned as controller two and the G25 is registered as the first controller.
Try unplugging the Pad and then reboot with only the G25 attached. Then reconnect the pad second while PC is on. It should pick it up as controller 2. Then do a full reboot, see if the pad stays and controller #2. That worked for me on WinXP.
Goodluck.
(unless I read your post wrong and you want it the other way around...)
If you ever find the chair keeps rolling backwards later on, just get a small length of rope and tether it from the desk legs to the chair wheel. Would be the simplest way and easy to remove when not in use.
Just a random fast reply. It's hard to tell how fast you are really going in a game. Friends play LFS at my house, they drive at 200kph and drive like they are doing 45km/h and wonder why it's so hard.
A quick real life example.
(scale is close but no 100% accurate)
I took this corner in a FWD 80's hatch at 100km/h (speed limit) and then my car really started to get some skidding sounds, became quite unsafe and I had to reduce speed to about 80km/h to get safe through the whole turn. (Well not entirely safe, it's rated at 65km/h exit speed something)
This corner looks about the same in LFS and taking it at 100km/h you have to back off a little to stop the car skidding.
I am in no way a car expert, but seems pretty close to me, even thogh it never appears to be because the felling of movement isn't there like in real life. It's hard to feel your real ground speed in LFS like in real life.
I just realised he posted in the skins forum, so I edited my post a bit.
Take a look at master skinnerz, there's probably a pro-kit for Bodykit parts to add to skins for XRG. You will need photoshop or something to read the pro-kit files which is are .psd format. IIRC
Hard Way ^^
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Easy Way vv
It should be do-able because Windows detects the gas pedal correctly as an analog device. With that fresh copy of LFS, try all the things that have been suggested. Remove deadzones, recalibrate axes, unlock them, try combined axes and separate axes, invert the gas axes (Y axes?) Try everything with the new install. Something might click.
Even try re-installing the drivers for the wheel, (if it came with a disk or you can download them), but perhaps the drivers are already included in Windows, so I dunno how to remove them safely and get them back in that instance, sorry.
There is nothing that should stop this from working in LFS, because Windows is detecting the gas properly. LFS just feeds off Windows.
Strange how it's the same in GTR Evo as well. Something very fishy. Have you got another PC/Family PC that you can test it on?
if you don't want to delete your .CON files, you can re-install/unzip a fresh copy of LFS to another folder and reassign the controllers and axes and start al over again, maybe something will happen that wasn't apparent before. Try disconnecting any other controllers to remove any variables as was stated above.
....Very good tips there from SparkyDave and STF.
This is very strange, your pedals are indeed analog so should work properly in LFS. Hope you can get this sorted, you are really missing out without proper accelerator control.
The videos are a big help and save a lot of incorrect diagnosis.
I don't know this wheel's specs, like is it really digital pedal inputs? on/off
It's called a "Digital Sports Wheel" to make it sound cooler I guess, but I don't know for sure about the pedals.
Is this wheel supposed to be digital pedals? If so, push up the Button Control Rate to 10.0, this will slow down the full throttle effect a bit and stop some of the power on oversteer effect.
Maybe you just have to set Throttle / Brake Axes as Separate instead of Buttons in LFS Controls menu, but like I said I don't know if your wheel supports this feature. Does the yellow sliders move in the LFS Controls menu when you press the throttle and brake, this will tell you if the pedals support smooth axes control.
What current method do you use to play LFS. I looked, but couldn't see if you are KB/Mouse/Pad or what not.
edit: saitek r220 - sorry.
edit: ignor this.... If you want smoother control of your accelerate/brake then using a button is not going to be optimal. Imagine driving a real car with a button for accelerate and brake?
Try increasing the button control rate amount to get a smoother accelerate/brake effect. You find that in Options || Controls || Button Control Rate
Try something like 10.0
You could try assigning the right stick up/down axis (if you have a dual stick game pad) to accelerate/brake until you decide to get a wheel.
99% of those Rick Roll turds have a different picture as the preview so that argument is of no use.
The thing that gives me the gripes about imbedding videos, is that once it starts downloading and you see it's crap, you can't stop it and you can see it eating your bandwidth limit! You have to refresh the page to kill it. At least with an external link you can just kill that TAB/Window.
Yes good points there from Boothy,
also Options || Misc || Analogue Steer Smooth can make a big effect. If it's too low then the steering acts all twitchy and if it's too high the steering acts sloppy. I had mine on about 0.8. Change this around and notice how the virtual wheel in the cockpit changes it's response times with different settings.
It will take a long time to get good times again if you were used to game pad.
So it wasn't plugged in eh?
I thought lack of a power cord just stopped Force Feedback from working, oh well, live and learn. I was gonna suggest power cord, but thought 'no you wouldn't have missed that out'