Don’t take those graphs literally. They are not there to show you the perfect handling setup… The colored bars are there just for reference, showing roughly how each change affects handling. A red bar which indicates oversteer, doesn’t mean necessarily that the car will overseer at that state but more like that there will be more oversteer - less understeer, as the bar “climbs”. (Till a point, exaggerating with the values does not bring the result VHPA predicts)
Thats more like it. You have to adjust the setup acording to what you see.
First of all in situations like that you use the force view to see which tire loses traction first and try to figure out what is happening.
Your brake balance (60%) is way back for a car with that weight distribution.
That makes you to keep the brake max force really low... this is bad for league racing because you are always in danger rear ending someone with stronger brakes than you.
The other major mistake is the suspension travel you have. It might not bottoms out doing jumps in garage. But you have to be sure that this isn't happening at any crutial part of the track... or else everything you so carefully tuned in the dampers or the springs goes to the trash... running on the bump stops.
Also keep in mind that because rear tires don't get stressed really that much in FWD cars, you can go silly with them, seeking rear end stability while not wanting to reduce the front end grip to gain that.
So lower the pressures and give some more negative camber there...
And lastly, because UF1 doesn't have ARBs it's good to go with stiffer springs. (then you can lower your UF1 a bit more).
+because of the front open diff you have to work with a lot harder springs at the back to keep the front inside tire to the ground.
Anyway back to the basic problem.
I have attached 4 screenshots. The first 2 show your setup and the other 2 show your setup only with my fixes in ride height and brake balance. (Also with higher brake force so you have to get used to it a bit if you want to gain advantage while braking)
I’d prefer fewer comments in the video about the awesomeness of what you did. (Saying about things that any viewer haven’t sheen before, or “did you saw someone drifting like me” etc) ffs man… let the viewers decide if what they see is unique or special. You spoil the fun of commenting.
Anyway you are lucky because the action shown in the video is indeed awesome. Nice precision drifting.
I think that this is what most of the peoples, who voted that they use inducted understeer, do.
It's really common and nearly most hotlaps are driven this way.
But this is used just as a slowing down while turning teqnique, shredding the tires and taking advantage of the sometimes abnormal slip ratio the tires can hold in many sims. If it’s a teqnique which the driver knows and users when it's needed, it’s ok… but many drivers really don’t know that they are turning too much in their effort to go faster… And then they blame the setup for hot tires. :Kick_Can_
This under steer induction by turning more really doesn’t seem to float my boat… Yes it makes sense… you steer more in order to go way past the front tire’s optimum slip angle.
But what happens when you return the wheel to the center while exiting a corner?
You have to return it really fast or else you are in danger getting again oversteer and this time it might me worse trying to put the power down in an RWD car. In the LFS video we can see unnaturally fast wheel movements that really can’t be replicated in real life. Anyway, the wheel is there to use it, controlling the front wheels slip angle can be used in any way the driver wants. But really I don’t think that this is the way to drive any “modern” car… racing or not.
I have sheen both GTA IV and Far Cry 2 run on core2duo PCs with prety mutch all the settings maxxed out. Still only the grafics card (8800GTX) was handicaping the perfornace. ( Lowering just the resolution or AA - AF was enough to run good fps, and these settings have nothing to do with cpu resources)
Anyway these games are capable to use all four cores from a quadcore cpu so there sould be a performance increase. But I am not sure if this is realy a problem for normal gaming use or just for the benchmarks.
You don’t need to by a new cpu το play any game decently.
Just buy a new Video card and add 2x 1gb dimms more of DDR2 800 to continue runing in dual channel. (guessing that you allready have 2x1GB dimms) Spend your money on an ati 4870 or an nvidia GTX260 it’s about on the same money as the card you are willing to buy but they are a lot better. 1066mhz dims don’t make any noticeable difference in every day applications. Right now your vga card is realy the bottleneck for your current pc config.
Great movie.
I think the driving could be a bit better but I am asking too mutch I suppose.
Also at 5.27 you show us a NOS bottle and I expect to show us some NOS action you know blue flames etc But nothing like that happens. The pursuit "just" continues. Which is fine. I just expected more Also I Find the XFR crash a bit lame (the car in front wasn't that close to justify that move) although sound sync was great. Overall a great effort by everyone and a really nice outcome. I just neadz moarzzzz.
Whatever move you do with camera, gets x times faster at the final video depending on the multiplyer you are using...
I don't find it comfortable at all. Basic panning is ok but folowing cars with a low FOV becomes a real pain in that speed.
You already recorded that in 5fps! The freezes I am mentioning are so tiny that they may not be noticeable by many people. It’s more like an uneven fluidity than just freezes. But after recording it in 5fps I can understand that you have already tried hard for this outcome. Anyway recording in such low speed also makes the camerawork much harder. Maybe you should consider sacrificing a bit in recording resolution. Also try to experiment a bit with some recording in 16bits. Apart from the tire smoke, everything else doesn’t look that different in LFS. Using the camera at that low speed, in a way that camerawork doesn’t sheem jerky when speeding up the video, is really hard. This may affect badly your final video.
Image quality, frame rate and camera work where all nice The color correction effect is good also.
But I think the car should be in a bit slower motion. Yeah I know it isn’t that easy to do if you are struggling with frame rates but it worths trying. Also this is just for my taste. I would prefer a bit softer suspension setup so roll-pitch movements are more apparent in a video like that.
Frame rate seems to be unstable having some rhythmic small freezes. This indicates that your hard drive is not capable of recording in such a high data rate. Try to reduce a bit the recording resolution and maybe the frame rate; even if this means that you have to record at half speed in order to get good solid 30fps in normal speed. On the other hand if you try to record with more than 30fps, you should consider sticking with that limit if this guarantees you stable fps. Also making up some more free disc space and defragging it may help. Camerawork needs practicing for smoother movements but this isn’t going to happen overnight. So be patient.
Also you may have picked a really demanding audio track for your video.
The action-camera-editing pace is not really matching the audio rhythm.
I think the technical aspect of the movie (camerawork & effects usage) is allright. Aside from that. I‘d prefer a car that is not so slammed on its suspension.
The car should be high enough so the front wheel does not go trough the fender while steering. This looks really uncool and unfortunately I have seen it in many FZ videos. The car doesn’t have to be that low and stiff to look cool. Actually a bit of suspension movement looks way cooler especially if your video has slow motion or slow pace parts.
Terrible race for us (GVRteam). After 2 disconnects in a very short time, an unscheduled pit for driver change fearing another DC and general instability, I finally managed to flip the car stupidly in this first chicane. This is not the reason I am writing here though. I want to apologize for the poor behavior of our driver who pushed n1Racing car (26) out of the right turn after the BL long straight when he had no right whatsoever in trying to overtake without having overlap before the turn in point. Also I want to apologize for my mistakes, pushing a bit Serbian Hell Drivers car (08) at 1.41:43 replay time and blocking team inferno car at 1:41.45 replay time. I misjudged the ability of car 08 to take the following right turn fast enough with the outside tires touching the grass a few meters earlier. And as for the inferno driver I blocked just before the first chicane, I just didn’t expect another car to make a pass there. The only way I could avoid you, would be nearly stopping off line. I was in blue flag condition though, so sorry anyway.
back on topic
Also you might concider looking at some good S2 hotlaps in lfsworld.net if you whant to get an idea about times that are realy close to the car's limits.
You may find some agressive and usualy not apropriate driving for stable racing. But it may help you know how far you can push your car.
When using new setups you have to keep a close look at tire temperatures. (F9) You might find that tires build up heat way to fast so after a lap or two you start sliding allover the place.
You may hate setups but at least you got to try experimenting with camber and pressure settings if you whant to survive.
(Usualy though, this is not the cace with XRG-XFG setups even if they are hotlap oriented.)
10mins to go and still Mercury racing hasn't confirm Less than 2hours ago Jonesy updated his post in Season Applications thread. Is it possible that he missed this thread?