To clarify that. and i am off
In my test, the XFG has 1ts gear that gives about 36km/h at 6000rpm… I wouldn’t call that a long gear.
Also I hardly believe that locking diff has an effect on that unless you take account the resistance which creates in slow speeds.
And because I do that test on stand still with the tires straight, the diff doesn’t affect anything.
After all that set has a clutch pack with 40% locking [edit]i checked again and i found that there is an open diff lol... i thought that there was the defaut's diff[[/edit] (anyway I hate locked diffs… I have removed them from all my sets for any car, since the addition of preload after patch W)
In my test, the XFG has 1ts gear that gives about 36km/h at 6000rpm… I wouldn’t call that a long gear.
Also I hardly believe that locking diff has an effect on that unless you take account the resistance which creates in slow speeds.
And because I do that test on stand still with the tires straight, the diff doesn’t affect anything.
After all that set has a clutch pack with 40% locking [edit]i checked again and i found that there is an open diff lol... i thought that there was the defaut's diff[[/edit] (anyway I hate locked diffs… I have removed them from all my sets for any car, since the addition of preload after patch W)
Last edited by kaynd, .
Count it it. was less than 36 sec for the temp to go red… from then I did move the revs up further to show that the clutch was useless… I wasn’t trying to keep it cool. (note that you see the revs get higher but i do not increase the throttle i actualy decrease it a bit after the CT goes red...)
I haven't tested UF1's clutch... it may be way more durable.
Anyway i do not expect to keep cool. I expect the clutch heat up slower and have a bit more linear loss of effectiveness.
And if nothing of that happens, it would be good to change that CT bar so it’s range has to do with the effective temperature of the clutch... when the temp reaches half the bar, there is no clutch whatsoever so what's the point going further up? it could be focused to the working range of the clutch.
I said what I wanted to say. I stop here because I am giving wrong impression and I am not helping anything get better by repeating the same things.
I can live with the current clutch model.
I haven't tested UF1's clutch... it may be way more durable.
Anyway i do not expect to keep cool. I expect the clutch heat up slower and have a bit more linear loss of effectiveness.
And if nothing of that happens, it would be good to change that CT bar so it’s range has to do with the effective temperature of the clutch... when the temp reaches half the bar, there is no clutch whatsoever so what's the point going further up? it could be focused to the working range of the clutch.
I said what I wanted to say. I stop here because I am giving wrong impression and I am not helping anything get better by repeating the same things.
I can live with the current clutch model.
Last edited by kaynd, .
Why then you don't download the spr i attached above to see for yourself? and why don't you try tha same test with the XFG? i can see that there is not the same problem with all cars..
Pesonen i did download your spr to see what tests you did.
As for what you guarande, i have not timed for how long i have seen others keeping the car still by slipping the clutch, but it is a lot longer that a normal take off... the next time i am to a similar situation i hope i have something to video it...
[edit]
i saw your spr, you did the same test as me with the only difference, you are using the autoclutch which manages to keep the car still with something close to 1250 rpm...
I just did this manualy, and because i am not that automatic, you see the car going backwards when the clutch gets red... if after that you push the pedal flat the clutch slips and instantly heats up to the point that is completely useles, it is a matter of 2 sec after the ct bar goes red.
Last edited by kaynd, .
I have been in situations going up a steep hill with many cars in front of you starting and stopping. You basically slip the clutch all the way up…
Also it is possible to keep the car stable stopped on a small hill by slipping the clutch in low rpm.
I know people doing that a lot, almost in every traffic light, and no one had any problems whatsoever… (I don’t like doing it because I know it stresses the clutch with no reason) I bet none who knows about car abuse that happens a lot when you are around 20-30yold… experienced the clutch getting loose so fast.
Why I continue whining about it? Because I thought that with proper clutch and tire model, by using the clutch you could get a benefit instead of just full throttle and jump of the clutch to have a perfect pull away…
Now with just one fast start using some slipping you can ruin your clutch or at least increase the temp worryingly so in the next mistake you are without clutch at all… So now even clutch model teach us that it is better on the start to just let go the clutch…
In the attached replay you can see the CT bar that gets red in 33 sec of sliping in around 2000-3000rpm with less than 1/5 of the clutch pedal release and less than ¼ of throttle @ an XFG…
Have you ever been in a trafic jam that lasts hours? if you had that kind of clutch in your car you would be off in 10minutes...
And i repeat... in racing, following some simple rooles, clutch is fine for infinite numper of laps... in AutoX layouts when will appear the need for more start-stop there is going to be really a problem...
Also it is possible to keep the car stable stopped on a small hill by slipping the clutch in low rpm.
I know people doing that a lot, almost in every traffic light, and no one had any problems whatsoever… (I don’t like doing it because I know it stresses the clutch with no reason) I bet none who knows about car abuse that happens a lot when you are around 20-30yold… experienced the clutch getting loose so fast.
Why I continue whining about it? Because I thought that with proper clutch and tire model, by using the clutch you could get a benefit instead of just full throttle and jump of the clutch to have a perfect pull away…
Now with just one fast start using some slipping you can ruin your clutch or at least increase the temp worryingly so in the next mistake you are without clutch at all… So now even clutch model teach us that it is better on the start to just let go the clutch…
In the attached replay you can see the CT bar that gets red in 33 sec of sliping in around 2000-3000rpm with less than 1/5 of the clutch pedal release and less than ¼ of throttle @ an XFG…
Have you ever been in a trafic jam that lasts hours? if you had that kind of clutch in your car you would be off in 10minutes...
And i repeat... in racing, following some simple rooles, clutch is fine for infinite numper of laps... in AutoX layouts when will appear the need for more start-stop there is going to be really a problem...
I think that it didn’t go so well…
It is really not an event for newcomers… you must have eyes all round the car to pass the slower cars that don’t give way and also watch the faster cars behind you so you don’t block them.
There should be a lap time limit next time chosen by the organizer for each car, and the submitters have to be in a 103% range of that time so you can guarantee that racers have done a number laps and have kind of similar control abilities for the chosen track…
It will help if racers respect each other… calling the half grid idiots, doesn’t help at all…
It is really not an event for newcomers… you must have eyes all round the car to pass the slower cars that don’t give way and also watch the faster cars behind you so you don’t block them.
There should be a lap time limit next time chosen by the organizer for each car, and the submitters have to be in a 103% range of that time so you can guarantee that racers have done a number laps and have kind of similar control abilities for the chosen track…
It will help if racers respect each other… calling the half grid idiots, doesn’t help at all…
Last edited by kaynd, .
Now the road cars are realy fine… and the GTR cars are boring… I honestly think that GTR and formula cars had already fine redlines… race prepared engines supposed to rev that high and have a bit more spare room for revving 1000rpm above the peak power…
eg now the XFR with a 2lt engine race engine has a rev limiter on 7900 something rpm.
FOX tops @ 7500 !!!
There are every day driven road cars that have higher rev limiters than that
Engine sounds needed to be more exiting and now they are less
I “hate” all of you suggesting that to Scawen…
lol@ me taking advantage of that bump....
eg now the XFR with a 2lt engine race engine has a rev limiter on 7900 something rpm.
FOX tops @ 7500 !!!
There are every day driven road cars that have higher rev limiters than that
Engine sounds needed to be more exiting and now they are less
I “hate” all of you suggesting that to Scawen…
lol@ me taking advantage of that bump....
Last edited by kaynd, .
Here is a BL setup I made.
I wanted to stay with as less DF as possible (4/5), and still keep it easy. My main focus was to maintain an easy turn in with not much steering movement (i am using 450deg for the Formula cars) and also minimize that mid corner under steer when you gently apply throttle.
I haven’t done enough laps to attach a good hotlap. I managed a poor 1.14.52 but with many mistakes caused by me as i don't really know when to brake yet
I wanted to stay with as less DF as possible (4/5), and still keep it easy. My main focus was to maintain an easy turn in with not much steering movement (i am using 450deg for the Formula cars) and also minimize that mid corner under steer when you gently apply throttle.
I haven’t done enough laps to attach a good hotlap. I managed a poor 1.14.52 but with many mistakes caused by me as i don't really know when to brake yet
This car had a maybe badly modified engine with a clutch with unknown previews wear state…
And it still got 30 seconds to completely cook it… (00:40)
And I repeat for 4th time… now in LFS you can do that in an XFG with a brand new clutch in 3seconds …
And it still got 30 seconds to completely cook it… (00:40)
And I repeat for 4th time… now in LFS you can do that in an XFG with a brand new clutch in 3seconds …
Most of us didn’t say that we have problems in normal shifting, but that in general the clutch overheats excessively fast… and you can understand that after you repeat some slow starts with mid high revs…
Username: kaynd
Realname:
Car: FZR
Why that car: Raced it recently on WE and I liked it.
But in case the grid don’t fill with all cars, I am free to drive whatever you want to make the differences in comparison more pronounced.
Realname:
Car: FZR
Why that car: Raced it recently on WE and I liked it.
But in case the grid don’t fill with all cars, I am free to drive whatever you want to make the differences in comparison more pronounced.
Last edited by kaynd, .
Flying after a full speed crash with a flipped ,in the middle of the track, mrt 
Yeah also AI does nothing to avoid obstacles like this but this can't be easily fixed.
Yeah also AI does nothing to avoid obstacles like this but this can't be easily fixed.
In some cars (eg XFG) the clutch is useless after 3 sec of sliping… it just isn’t right, even though I don’t have problems in racing…
AI doesn’t try to remove the flipped or stuck to the wall car from the track and if there is no other way (luck of reverse gear @ MRT) they will stay stuck in the middle of the track for the entire race.
They could shift+s if reset is not allowed.
They could shift+s if reset is not allowed.
Last edited by kaynd, .
The clutch indeed stays cool in normal racing, but I still think that it gets cooked really soon.
In a test with the XFG I managed to overheat it in 3sec. when it just reaches the ¼ of the clutch temperature bar and becomes red, it slips like hell… almost unusable.
In a test with the XFG I managed to overheat it in 3sec. when it just reaches the ¼ of the clutch temperature bar and becomes red, it slips like hell… almost unusable.
Is it normal that I feel the feedback less informative, a bit softer and lighter?
Also it is great that there are now realistic redlines to the road cars… but why it got changed also on the GTR and formyla cars?
F3000 with rev limiter @ 7500 rpm?
XF GTR @ 8000rpm??? Oh come on! There are even factory road cars that have higher rev limiters for the same engine layout.
Clutch scared me a bit after some rough gear changes but then I realized that it is not that difficult to keep it cool.
But anyway I find it a bit excessive that it can be completely destroyed in less than 5se sec of slipping.
Also it is great that there are now realistic redlines to the road cars… but why it got changed also on the GTR and formyla cars?
F3000 with rev limiter @ 7500 rpm?
XF GTR @ 8000rpm??? Oh come on! There are even factory road cars that have higher rev limiters for the same engine layout.
Clutch scared me a bit after some rough gear changes but then I realized that it is not that difficult to keep it cool.
But anyway I find it a bit excessive that it can be completely destroyed in less than 5se sec of slipping.
I was joking
didn't you see the 
emoticon?
nice to point out the difference though
didn't you see the emoticon? nice to point out the difference though
Check out 2:45 and 3:10 squidhead is arabdrifting
http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=27AAUepxMHg
Seriously now, you can have fun going sideways anyware (in a controlled environment)… it is just that absolute ignorance of corners and the obsession with the straight road with non drifting car/s pretenting the “traffic” that upsets…
Nice editing though
http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=27AAUepxMHg
Seriously now, you can have fun going sideways anyware (in a controlled environment)… it is just that absolute ignorance of corners and the obsession with the straight road with non drifting car/s pretenting the “traffic” that upsets…
Nice editing though
I found your set difficult to control at corner exits. It turns in easily using the full amount of the rear grip but when it is time to add more force by accelerating, the rear brakes easily.
As for your driving, I totally agree with Jouman even if I have 0% experience in LX6 @ BL but I have some in LX4 @BL and the lines are not much different.
Anyway, if you want a fast setup, then you need the one from inferno posted above.
Otherwise you could try the set I made with yours as baseline. I did it mainly experimenting with LX6 settings, it is not really the kind of set I would use… For my sets i usually prefer a bit more understeer at corner entry and higher locking at the power side of the diff (oversteer at corner exit but not that much loss of grip by the spinning inside tire).
As for the set I have attached here, I tried to maintain the fast turn in characteristic and also reduce the rear tire grip loss at corner exit with throttle, while maintaining the same front/rear stiffness “distribution” (overall it has a bit less roll resistance).
Not sure if I made it or just got used to my set… but anyway I still find yours more oversteery at corner exits so there must be a difference.
As for your driving, I totally agree with Jouman even if I have 0% experience in LX6 @ BL but I have some in LX4 @BL and the lines are not much different.
Anyway, if you want a fast setup, then you need the one from inferno posted above.
Otherwise you could try the set I made with yours as baseline. I did it mainly experimenting with LX6 settings, it is not really the kind of set I would use… For my sets i usually prefer a bit more understeer at corner entry and higher locking at the power side of the diff (oversteer at corner exit but not that much loss of grip by the spinning inside tire).
As for the set I have attached here, I tried to maintain the fast turn in characteristic and also reduce the rear tire grip loss at corner exit with throttle, while maintaining the same front/rear stiffness “distribution” (overall it has a bit less roll resistance).
Not sure if I made it or just got used to my set… but anyway I still find yours more oversteery at corner exits so there must be a difference.
Last edited by kaynd, .
If there are no other files wrote on the space where the old one appeared, Then it is easy to recover the deleted files from the HDD using a program like Get Data Back http://www.get-data-back.com/
Actually when I said about ISP problems I didn’t mean no connection at all…
I have seen cases where temporary the user’s ISP for some reason wasn’t able to connect with the servers on another ISP.
But anyway I guess that lfs forum is at the same master server so that’s not the case now
Especially after you did the last check that angry said.
can you check if LFS tries to send packets o it just does nothing?
Or anyway if these packets are blocked?
They made them worst looking than ever and about 1 and a half seconds slower... great job… I actually did like the Subarus before 2004 and the all the evos but now they ruined them both
You said that you did disable the windows firewall in your first post.
Just for experimenting. Not as a solution...
You could try to disable your rooter firewall and whatever software firewall you have. And keep it in that way till you figure out what is happening.
Also try to calm down… this doesn’t help you or anyone who want to help.
You have enough theoretical knowledge and you will find the solution just stay focused that this is your operating system settings – rooter NAT – firewall – ISP problem.
There is nothing wrong with the LFS’s master server.
Just for experimenting. Not as a solution...
You could try to disable your rooter firewall and whatever software firewall you have. And keep it in that way till you figure out what is happening.
Also try to calm down… this doesn’t help you or anyone who want to help.
You have enough theoretical knowledge and you will find the solution just stay focused that this is your operating system settings – rooter NAT – firewall – ISP problem.
There is nothing wrong with the LFS’s master server.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG