I think I remember reading something about disallowing H-shift in the single-seaters in one of the recent patch update logs, but I could very easily be wrong with that. Even if it isn't disallowed, IMO it should be because those kinds of cars wouldn't have an H-gate.
I'd contend that the smart driver does, without the obvious implication that you're stupid for not doing so.
I use names over cars so I know who is around me. Especially if you race on a server regularly you get to know the other regulars and their driving styles, and thus can be more confident about their habits. I know with some guys I can make a move down their inside and they'll see me and race me clean and hard, so I don't have to worry. I know others tend to be more erratic and so I need to pass them with more room to spare.
Use the map. Yellow triangles are cars ahead, orange are cars behind.
If you're racing someone for position, they will never get a blue flag even if you're faster. They will be yellow on your map until you pass them. They are entitled to drive defensively (e.g. a single movement to prevent you passing) but not rule-breakingly aggressively (e.g. weaving, ramming, pushing others off the circuit).
f you come up behind a slower car which has been lapped, it'll be orange. He will see a blue flag when you get near (more or less, it isn't always at the right distance) and he will have to move out of the way as soon as reasonably possible.
It worked for me and my X800XL AGP. I have no idea whether it will work for others, but it's worth a try for people with framerate issues.
The X850XT is certainly good enough to run those settings with good framerates. I had exactly the same issues when I first installed LFS. Turns out the newish driver version I was using had a bug or some sort of issue with LFS which caused large frame rate drops. I rolled back to a slightly older version which was recommended to me (Catalyst 5.11) and now it runs great.
So basically, newer isn't always better when it comes to graphics drivers. Find the one that runs best for the games you play.
Well that was silly. 
On a related note, watch this fool woman flip her car (skip to 2:30) due to hitting a gate at what must be no more than 10mph because she can't operate a clutch pedal. How it had enough energy to roll all the way on to its roof I'll never know. I know such egregious idiocy behind the wheel should earn drivers like her a permanently revoked license though.
On a related note, watch this fool woman flip her car (skip to 2:30) due to hitting a gate at what must be no more than 10mph because she can't operate a clutch pedal. How it had enough energy to roll all the way on to its roof I'll never know. I know such egregious idiocy behind the wheel should earn drivers like her a permanently revoked license though.
Well, unfortunately that isn't true for me. Sometimes during a race when I have to make a snap correction, my wheel can't 'keep up', I guess is the term, and does not re-center correctly. The net result of this is that I have to keep the wheel at an angle to make the car go in a straight line. If I turn the wheel lock-to-lock after one of these snap corrections, it will fix itself. I do this at the beginning of the race just to make sure everything's gravy.
And thanks for the help with the turbo boost problem guys.
Standing Starts With FXR
Hey,
I've been on LFS for months now, but have continually neglected to ask about my strange experiences with starts with the FXR. In short, my starts are slow as hell.
My normal procedure for starts in all cars is as follows:
As my car appears on the grid, I turn the wheel to full lock in both directions and fully depress both pedals to ensure calibration (I use a Logitech Momo black). As the first set of lights comes on, I rev the engine to just below redline and hold it there. When the final set of red lights come on, I slowly start to increase the throttle in anticipation of green. As soon as it hits green, I floor the throttle - if it isn't already floored.
This procedure works well in all cars except for the FXR. When it drops into 1st gear, for some reason the revs drop almost to idle when they should stay high. The result is that I get away very sluggishly. All the other cars blow past me and I end up starting at the back of the pack no matter my starting position.
I use a modified Setup Field set. It's geared to only use 1st gear from a standing start; all hairpins no matter how slow use 2nd. Is this a characteristic of the car or just this setup? Is it normal to not use 1st? Is this my problem, or am I just doing something wrong with this car?
I've been on LFS for months now, but have continually neglected to ask about my strange experiences with starts with the FXR. In short, my starts are slow as hell.
My normal procedure for starts in all cars is as follows:
As my car appears on the grid, I turn the wheel to full lock in both directions and fully depress both pedals to ensure calibration (I use a Logitech Momo black). As the first set of lights comes on, I rev the engine to just below redline and hold it there. When the final set of red lights come on, I slowly start to increase the throttle in anticipation of green. As soon as it hits green, I floor the throttle - if it isn't already floored.
This procedure works well in all cars except for the FXR. When it drops into 1st gear, for some reason the revs drop almost to idle when they should stay high. The result is that I get away very sluggishly. All the other cars blow past me and I end up starting at the back of the pack no matter my starting position.
I use a modified Setup Field set. It's geared to only use 1st gear from a standing start; all hairpins no matter how slow use 2nd. Is this a characteristic of the car or just this setup? Is it normal to not use 1st? Is this my problem, or am I just doing something wrong with this car?
Last edited by Lateralus, .
That's what would make sense, but remember we're talking about some real fool LFS drivers here. My experience with the FOX on AS Club leads me to the same conclusion as the guy you quoted, which is to say around the outside of T1 is often the way to go. Seems there's always a few guys who charge to the inside without bothering to look, so they tap someone's front end and spin them around. Cars behind then plow into the spun car. Since the turn is so slow though, I usually don't have any problems with cars spinning to the outside.
I have some good replays of me braking ridiculously late (30-40m) before T1 at AS Club, hugging the edge of the track on the outside and passing 10+ cars. Once I went from 22nd to 3rd by the end of the first lap because no one could seem to keep it on the road. And I was intentionally slow for the whole lap in order to be as clean as possible.
That sounds just like the Blue Ridge Parkway, which is only about three or four miles away from where I live now. God, I love the Parkway. :thumb3d:
Last edited by Lateralus, .
You went through here to get from Georgia to Maryland? Seems like a roundabout way of getting there, but OK. Which road was it? Both 221 and 194 look exactly like the Dragon, two-lanes only. Not very 'highway-like' at all. You may have done another section of 221 farther south. If you turned onto 105 North from 221 at Linville, NC, then you missed the good part of 221. It changes at the 105 intersection.
I'm a good three or four hours from the Dragon itself, but still in the NC mountains (Boone). We have a few roads kinda like the Dragon around here and they're a blast to drive. On the official website they have a trip report detailing their rides through this area, so it was really cool to see pictures of roads I've been on. US221 South of Blowing Rock and 194 South of Boone are both fanstastic sections. Extremely bendy, lots of elevation changes, and incredible scenery. I drove both of those roads dozens of times this past year and it was always great.
I haven't been to the Dragon itself, but I definitely plan to go this spring. I've known about it for a few years and it's high time to experience it firsthand.
I haven't been to the Dragon itself, but I definitely plan to go this spring. I've known about it for a few years and it's high time to experience it firsthand.
I think there should be an easily-adjustable AI Strength slider too. Even on the highest level it is easy to be 15+ seconds faster than the AI pack after the first lap, starting from the back row. AI braking points are unpredictable and dangerous, so racing with them at all is impossible. If we could manually adjust the strength on-the-fly we could more closely match our own pace and increase the immersion, which is what AI racing sorely lacks but multiplayer has in spades.
Dingle Dell is a bend at Brands Hatch.
EDIT: Or maybe it was, and doesn't exist anymore. I knew Dingle Dell used to be a fantastic corner on the old Brands Hatch GP circuit. I don't know how the layout has been revised since then.
Last edited by Lateralus, .
Again you must have some incorrect settings. What driver set are you using?
EDIT: Nevermind, you said was, not have. Your FPS is fine now. Disregard. :dunce:
I wouldn't consider 50fps low though. With no AA that's admittedly not much graphics power, but it suffices.
Last edited by Lateralus, .
The wonders of the internets at your fingertips.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-aliasing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anisotropic_filtering
What a bizarre statement.
And I have to agree with everyone else about not having images in signatures. They serve no useful purpose outside being extremely irritating and causing the page to take too long to load. Even worse are animated .gifs in signatures. Thank Christ for Adblock.
Er, they are cheap, and this is coming from a broke-ass college student. You can get a 6200 (as stated before, adequate for LFS) for less than $50, which is more than the average cost for a month of high-speed internet. If someone's so broke that they consider that to be prohibitively expensive, I have to wonder how they managed to afford the rest of their PC, a new steering wheel, an S2 license, etc...
That isn't your motherboard sir. You have some incorrect settings. I have a P4 2.8 and an X800XL and my FPS is constantly maxed-out at 75. That's with every in-game setting maxed, and my Windows settings maxed-out (6xAA, 16xAF). I even run Adaptive Anti-Aliasing which usually crushes framerates.
Have you tried switching your drivers? When I first got LFS I was running a driver set (Catalyst 5.12) which turned out to be a poor choice, because I got the same symptoms that you describe (sudden FPS drops). I rolled back to the 5.11s and now it runs silky smooth.
Did you uninstall the old driver package before installing the new one?
You can't do it from within the game.
Right-click on your desktop and select "Properties", then the "Settings" tab, then the "Advanced" button in that tab. Where you go from here depends on which type of graphics card you have. I have an ATI, so I choose the "3D" tab from which I can choose my AA and AF settings. If you have an Nvidia card it will probably be called something else.
Right-click on your desktop and select "Properties", then the "Settings" tab, then the "Advanced" button in that tab. Where you go from here depends on which type of graphics card you have. I have an ATI, so I choose the "3D" tab from which I can choose my AA and AF settings. If you have an Nvidia card it will probably be called something else.
Severe artifacting is often a sign of a damaged card, although if you just updated your drivers that is unlikely. Roll back your drivers to the version you were previously using.
Oh and the CCC really isn't any good anyway. Bloated and gimmicky. I use the old-style version with ATI Tray Tools.
Oh and the CCC really isn't any good anyway. Bloated and gimmicky. I use the old-style version with ATI Tray Tools.
Well I had wheel oscillation problems when I first installed LFS, and those settings fixed them. I kept them that way because I didn't know any better. Now they're fixed and the road feel is even more fantastic than it was before.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG