I believe that there is a program being worked on, which will enable you to set how much you want an in-car steering wheel to rotate. This would be the independent option of LFS and would allow the following:
set wheel degrees to 900, set this program to show in car wheel 900 deg and in setup select as much as you want max lock.
I personally also do not like that I now have to turn 900 instead of 720 in XFG for 30deg of steering column rotation, if I want to have 1:1 wheel to car's wheel.
The reason you have two devices is I believe, due to wheelbase itself being reported as one device. A wheel rim is reported as another. It has buttons and some axis attached to it, but certainly no FFB. It is weird that Fanatic named both of them the same, lazy
This is from Scawen. Also related to Wizard's post about driving on ice.
Changes from 0.6U to 0.6V :
Multiplayer:
Maximum packets per second (/pps) has been increased to 12
Rolling resistance included in catch-up phase of prediction
Wear and temperature packet is more frequent and more accurate
Position packet now includes contact patch offset for each tyre
Reduced steering glitch each time a position packet is received
More accurate transmission of fuel load from local to remote car
Position packets are sent more frequently in response to steering
As far as I am aware, all Scawen did about FFB is increase resolution and sampling rate. The way it is calculated is still the same.
The error he gets is usually when the game is not able to set up the force feedback on a particular axis. Other than the device not having FFB at all, it also happens if a device reports 2 FFB axis (like some gamepads or joysticks), LFS only uses one and is not able to set up the other one. Wheels have only 1 FFB axis, which is usually tied to X-axis (steering), as defined in firmware or PID part of HID descriptor.
Most probably you do not have the correct FFB driver for a wheel. Would be worth looking into an older version which you used when it worked correctly.
Well take assetto for example. It's super expensive with all the available DLC, I do not even know how much I've spent on all of those. It has a milion cars and tracks, of which I only drove a few. My multiplayer experience was horrible. In that case, this is absolutelly too much choice, driven just by the the nature of how games these days are. Here's an DLC or a car, you wana play? then you buy, try it and not drive it anymore. What I'm trying to say is more content does not equal better. If you just want to do a single player hotlap, then by all means, go for it. Moreover, kids are anyway allways attracted to the graphical aspect of it and mostly are repelled from LFS due to it.
LFS gameplay, GUI, multiplayer experience, FFB, organized leagues and its small specialized community makes it in my opinnion by far the best racing sim ever made. It gets improved, slowly yes, but it still does live on since 2002.
All the buttons, LEDs and rotary encoders on the wheel rim of most wheels and also in G series Logitech wheels are first connected to the electronics on the small PCB, just underneath the plastic. Those signals are then serialized by the use of shift register chips. Usually, each can handle up to 8 buttons, or 8bit shifts. Connecting those chips in series makes it possible to have many more buttons. This PCB is connected to the main PCB in the wheelbase by usually no more than a 6 wire cable (SPI). On both PCBs they put cheap small connectors. The cable needs to be twisted in a coil or spring to allow the wheel rim rotation without tearing it.
Now, your problem may be in any of those points. I would say this is the most probable failure order: cable came loose on the connector in wheel rim PCB, some of the wires got damaged, or a dead shift register chip. These are the points where you might find a problem and fix it. The problem might even be on the main PCB itself. If so, unfortunately, nothing can be done.
G27 has 6 buttons, 2 paddle shifters and 5 LEDs (10 total). Not exactly sure how they wired the shift registers, I never opened it. At least on G29 wheel rim they have 3 of these chips. You say 1 paddle shifter is still working. Did the other buttons just stop working all at once?
You have come to the perfect place. LFS is a great and affordable sim, with plenty of good cars and tracks. The community is small but also very fun and helpufull.
As pricing is concerned, there are different licenses demo (free), S1, S2 and S3. One can buy one by one and upgrade. Have a look here for exact prices https://www.lfs.net/shop
For start you can try demo for free, then if you like it, no more that up to S2 is really needed. S2 should be no more than 30 dollars I guess, for USA. It's a one time payment, no iRenting bs.
There is a mouse sensitivity option in version 6V. Options/controls/axes then under available axes you can adjust mouse X and Y sens. It starts from 0.5 and maxes out at 20, with a step of 0.1
If that is not enough range for you, you can always change windows mouse sensitivity.
PS. I just realized that yesterday was 10 full years since I joined this forum and had a total of 10 posts
In principle, everything looks good from the PID side I would say. There is a limit anyway in the granularity of the DirectX input of 10000. That is why instead of full 16bit values (+-32k, or 65k) they have put 10000 instead, that is all fine. Logical and physical values are reported and defined correctly. As I mentioned before, there is still a lot of processing done with those values before they get sent out to motor as some PWM driving signals. But it is fishy how other games run fine. This is very interesting since I did have kind of similar problems while developing my own firmware for an Arduino based FFB wheel. Without WheelCheck I would have not been able to scale effects and calculate forces correctly, it was a great help for troubleshooting FFB issues.
Have you tried playing with the wheel with force (PID) effect? Does it work correctly or you have it the same as in LFS? Try also those effects at the bottom, inertia, friction or damper. There is an offset for these effects, this will shift the X-axis range, but it is only for the WheelCheck program, see if that makes any difference. It might at least give us an idea of where the problem is. Before pinpointing the issue, I can not say for sure if the problem is in their firmware or elsewhere.
Maybe we can get on discord some time and try to do some tests in WheelCheck together.
At this point, I'm afraid that you are only left with some diagnostics tools. Most probably, the fix needs to be in the firmware of the device itself. More accurately PID (physical interface device) part of the HID (human interface device) descriptor.
WheelCheck is really a great program. It was made by guys from iRacing. It can read device HID definitions, as well as PID - FFB effect definitions. You can basically see everything that is in the firmware of the device regarding FFB. Additionally, you can apply some FFB effects like a constant force to test your device. The only FFB effect LFS uses is constant force - it sends FF rate times per second a constant value of force to the wheel in the range of 0 to FF steps, giving the illusion of time-dependent force. How these values are then scaled to the signal which is sent to the motors is another part. Here you can only see the logical or software side of things, done by Microsoft in 1999.
Have a look at some of my print screens for where to look for important FFB things.
You can recalibrate the axis in the DXView2 only. I would still try to check it with WheelCheck, put some spring force, and see if that works normally. If not, then it has to do something with the firmware of the wheel, which you can do nothing about. And about the wheel being reported by Windows as joystick or wheel, does not matter for LFS. If you can not find it, pm me, I can send you the exe file.
Did you try to set in LFS (patch V) options/controls/axis FF steps to 10000 and FF rate to 100Hz, turn of dead zone?
Hi, I would warmly recommend uninstalling G Hub, since it does your wheel no good. It is suited for mice, keyboards, and headphones with RGB lighting mostly. It has absolutely no available settings for the wheel itself.
Previous versions of drivers are much much better. I have G29 and I tried G Hub when it came out. I was happy that there was an update, but only for a short time. I got instantly disappointed in how crappy it is for the wheel and the lack of any settings the previous version had. Do not be fooled with new looks, there is nothing new in it for the G29/G920 in the firmware or FFB side of things.
I've heard from some guys who installed it that they even completely lost FFB in LFS.
This sounds like a standard problem with wrongly choosing a signed or unsigned integer, which simply gets overflown.
example: a) int16_t, 16bit, -32767 to 32767 (0 center)
b) uint16_t, 16bit, 0 to 65535 (32768 center)
This is defined in the HID, or firmware of the device. Usually for wheel controllers, the steering axis is a signed integer, for example (a), where the raw value of 0 is a wheel center and this is used to calculate the FFB. In that case, bits 0 to 14 are the value, while the last bit15 is a sign. Giving this variable a value of 32768 will cause it to overflow and give a result of -32767. The same goes for an FFB magnitude value, which if not defined correctly may cause the same issue. The LFS is simply reading whatever is reported by the device in HID descriptor.
To check this, I would suggest you try one of the following programs capable of reading raw values from USB joysticks or wheels: DIView, DXTweak2
The best would be: WheelCheck which can generate FFB effects as well.
See attached pictures of DXTweak. For some reason, I got device names reversed while printscreen. My DIY Arduino wheel is -32k to 32k and Thrustmaster wheel is 0 65535 in X axis. Both wheels are working normally in LFS with the correct FFB.