Here are some figures that should help and explain how to calculate the turning radius, for the correct "Ackerman type" of the steering rack. Note the abbreviations: I-inner, O-outer, F-front, R-rear. We need a little bit of clarification from Scawen for what exactly the parallel steer option means in car setup. I'm guessing that if you set 0% that would correspond to a full Ackerman steering and going towards a higher % makes it less Ackerman until wheels are completely parallel.
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
I completely agree with you guys.
Let's start a movement: "Give 36 degrees to FWD cars!"
Let's start a movement: "Give 36 degrees to FWD cars!"
Is there a possibility to plug in the pedals as a stand-alone USB device, rather than through the wheel base?
When you open game controllers do you see two or one device related to your wheel?
When you open game controllers do you see two or one device related to your wheel?
Hi VladM, yes. Have a look here https://www.lfs.net/forum/thre ... 86-wheel-steering-degrees
Tnx for info. As easy as it sounds, unfortunately that pretty much exceeds my programming knowledge.
Hi guys, first of all, thank you very much Scawen and Eric for your efforts to improve the sim, it's highly appreciated.
I'm extremely pleased with the increased resolution and refresh rate of FFB, it really does make a noticeable difference even on G29. However, there are still a few tiny and easy features that need to be implemented which I really miss.
[1] minimal force adjustment (advanced: FFB mapping or LUT option)
[2] FFB clipping indicator (advanced: FFB real-time monitor)
Pretty much all non Direct Drive wheels have the problem of low forces being covered in the wheel's inherent friction. Unfortunately, manufacturers do not care about this and do not offer such corrections. As a basic version, the minimal force slider (Fig 2) would solve this once and for all so that we can enjoy the sim even more. The advanced version would include more points so that we would even be able to map the FFB to our wheel and compensate for its force nonlinearity, similar to what they did with the look-up table in Assetto Corsa.
I do not even want to stress how important is not to clip the FFB. As very basic, an FFB clipping LED indicator is enough. An advanced option, allowing to visually inspect the forces being sent to the wheel would be immensely helpful. Something like fps real-time monitor (Fig 1) is more than enough, nothing fancy.
I hope that Scawen will seriously consider this and implement at least the basic versions of such features, as their value for all wheel users will be enormous. If needed, I can offer more details and also some example code, since I have already implemented these features in my DIY FFB wheel.
I'm extremely pleased with the increased resolution and refresh rate of FFB, it really does make a noticeable difference even on G29. However, there are still a few tiny and easy features that need to be implemented which I really miss.
[1] minimal force adjustment (advanced: FFB mapping or LUT option)
[2] FFB clipping indicator (advanced: FFB real-time monitor)
Pretty much all non Direct Drive wheels have the problem of low forces being covered in the wheel's inherent friction. Unfortunately, manufacturers do not care about this and do not offer such corrections. As a basic version, the minimal force slider (Fig 2) would solve this once and for all so that we can enjoy the sim even more. The advanced version would include more points so that we would even be able to map the FFB to our wheel and compensate for its force nonlinearity, similar to what they did with the look-up table in Assetto Corsa.
I do not even want to stress how important is not to clip the FFB. As very basic, an FFB clipping LED indicator is enough. An advanced option, allowing to visually inspect the forces being sent to the wheel would be immensely helpful. Something like fps real-time monitor (Fig 1) is more than enough, nothing fancy.
I hope that Scawen will seriously consider this and implement at least the basic versions of such features, as their value for all wheel users will be enormous. If needed, I can offer more details and also some example code, since I have already implemented these features in my DIY FFB wheel.
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How does one use 24bit sound in LFS?
Why would you do that, when all LFS sound samples are compressed and have a much lower bit rate anyway.
Why would you do that, when all LFS sound samples are compressed and have a much lower bit rate anyway.
It's a small program made by devs of iRacing, which can read many things about device firmware regarding FFB. It can generate some FFB effects, which is very useful for testing the wheel and check if everything works correctly.
If you are able to generate forces with it, then obviously LFS has some issue with your wheel.
If you are able to generate forces with it, then obviously LFS has some issue with your wheel.
There are little to no online servers that support S1 only content. If you want a single-player, it is worth it. Otherwise, I would recommend waiting till you can get S2.
No need to be confused, you only have one device reported that's how your wheel is made.
Can you select Axes/FF tab and make a picture?
Can you select Axes/FF tab and make a picture?
LFS uses just a simple windows driver or Direct Input API for FFB, developed in 1999. If your buttons and axes are recognized here, they should also work in LFS. See a picture below. However, I never tested more than 32 buttons in LFS so not sure if there really is a limitation.
Regardless of which wheel you use, if you do not want to clip FFB signal here are my suggestions for %FFB in LFS per car. With these settings, LFS will roughly max out FFB for each car and have no, to a tiny clipping under normal driving. Crashing will cause severe clipping though, so you can take these values as your starting point. Adjust overall strength in wheel driver to suit your needs or liking. Bare in mind that this value is a function of many things: track, car, car setup and driving style.
XFG 34%
XRG 16%
XRT 13%
LX4 35%
XRR 11%
FZR 10%
FXR 12%
FOX 26%
BF1 11%
I got these values by visually inspecting LFS FFB signal at KY1 track at the limits of grip, using the direct FFB monitor tool which I made for my DIY wheel. Let me know if you would like me to update a list with any other car.
XFG 34%
XRG 16%
XRT 13%
LX4 35%
XRR 11%
FZR 10%
FXR 12%
FOX 26%
BF1 11%
I got these values by visually inspecting LFS FFB signal at KY1 track at the limits of grip, using the direct FFB monitor tool which I made for my DIY wheel. Let me know if you would like me to update a list with any other car.
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If you can, put everything on SSD.
I believe that there is a program being worked on, which will enable you to set how much you want an in-car steering wheel to rotate. This would be the independent option of LFS and would allow the following:
set wheel degrees to 900, set this program to show in car wheel 900 deg and in setup select as much as you want max lock.
I personally also do not like that I now have to turn 900 instead of 720 in XFG for 30deg of steering column rotation, if I want to have 1:1 wheel to car's wheel.
set wheel degrees to 900, set this program to show in car wheel 900 deg and in setup select as much as you want max lock.
I personally also do not like that I now have to turn 900 instead of 720 in XFG for 30deg of steering column rotation, if I want to have 1:1 wheel to car's wheel.
Ah yes I see, tnx.
The reason you have two devices is I believe, due to wheelbase itself being reported as one device. A wheel rim is reported as another. It has buttons and some axis attached to it, but certainly no FFB. It is weird that Fanatic named both of them the same, lazy
The reason you have two devices is I believe, due to wheelbase itself being reported as one device. A wheel rim is reported as another. It has buttons and some axis attached to it, but certainly no FFB. It is weird that Fanatic named both of them the same, lazy
What is this "boite de bit" tab you have in controls?
I have it like this, that is what he means do not just select one. But I suppose you only have one device detected anyway.
I have it like this, that is what he means do not just select one. But I suppose you only have one device detected anyway.
This is from Scawen. Also related to Wizard's post about driving on ice.
Changes from 0.6U to 0.6V :
Multiplayer:
Maximum packets per second (/pps) has been increased to 12
Rolling resistance included in catch-up phase of prediction
Wear and temperature packet is more frequent and more accurate
Position packet now includes contact patch offset for each tyre
Reduced steering glitch each time a position packet is received
More accurate transmission of fuel load from local to remote car
Position packets are sent more frequently in response to steering
Changes from 0.6U to 0.6V :
Multiplayer:
Maximum packets per second (/pps) has been increased to 12
Rolling resistance included in catch-up phase of prediction
Wear and temperature packet is more frequent and more accurate
Position packet now includes contact patch offset for each tyre
Reduced steering glitch each time a position packet is received
More accurate transmission of fuel load from local to remote car
Position packets are sent more frequently in response to steering
As far as I am aware, all Scawen did about FFB is increase resolution and sampling rate. The way it is calculated is still the same.
The error he gets is usually when the game is not able to set up the force feedback on a particular axis. Other than the device not having FFB at all, it also happens if a device reports 2 FFB axis (like some gamepads or joysticks), LFS only uses one and is not able to set up the other one. Wheels have only 1 FFB axis, which is usually tied to X-axis (steering), as defined in firmware or PID part of HID descriptor.
The error he gets is usually when the game is not able to set up the force feedback on a particular axis. Other than the device not having FFB at all, it also happens if a device reports 2 FFB axis (like some gamepads or joysticks), LFS only uses one and is not able to set up the other one. Wheels have only 1 FFB axis, which is usually tied to X-axis (steering), as defined in firmware or PID part of HID descriptor.
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Oh ok, well that's a bummer. It does point that something is wrong with LFS 
Have you tried playing with the program WheelCheck?
Have you tried playing with the program WheelCheck?
Most probably you do not have the correct FFB driver for a wheel. Would be worth looking into an older version which you used when it worked correctly.
As a re-creator of an AA Multiclass server (original idea by cargame.nl) I'm happy to hear that Mandula
Well take assetto for example. It's super expensive with all the available DLC, I do not even know how much I've spent on all of those. It has a milion cars and tracks, of which I only drove a few. My multiplayer experience was horrible. In that case, this is absolutelly too much choice, driven just by the the nature of how games these days are. Here's an DLC or a car, you wana play? then you buy, try it and not drive it anymore. What I'm trying to say is more content does not equal better. If you just want to do a single player hotlap, then by all means, go for it. Moreover, kids are anyway allways attracted to the graphical aspect of it and mostly are repelled from LFS due to it.
LFS gameplay, GUI, multiplayer experience, FFB, organized leagues and its small specialized community makes it in my opinnion by far the best racing sim ever made. It gets improved, slowly yes, but it still does live on since 2002.
LFS gameplay, GUI, multiplayer experience, FFB, organized leagues and its small specialized community makes it in my opinnion by far the best racing sim ever made. It gets improved, slowly yes, but it still does live on since 2002.
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What if I would like to emulate a simulator like LFS?
Would it technically be a simulator? just kidding
Would it technically be a simulator?
just kiddingNo problem man, I hope that it is just a loose connector. This is common for old and rumbly devices.
All the buttons, LEDs and rotary encoders on the wheel rim of most wheels and also in G series Logitech wheels are first connected to the electronics on the small PCB, just underneath the plastic. Those signals are then serialized by the use of shift register chips. Usually, each can handle up to 8 buttons, or 8bit shifts. Connecting those chips in series makes it possible to have many more buttons. This PCB is connected to the main PCB in the wheelbase by usually no more than a 6 wire cable (SPI). On both PCBs they put cheap small connectors. The cable needs to be twisted in a coil or spring to allow the wheel rim rotation without tearing it.
Now, your problem may be in any of those points. I would say this is the most probable failure order: cable came loose on the connector in wheel rim PCB, some of the wires got damaged, or a dead shift register chip. These are the points where you might find a problem and fix it. The problem might even be on the main PCB itself. If so, unfortunately, nothing can be done.
G27 has 6 buttons, 2 paddle shifters and 5 LEDs (10 total). Not exactly sure how they wired the shift registers, I never opened it. At least on G29 wheel rim they have 3 of these chips. You say 1 paddle shifter is still working. Did the other buttons just stop working all at once?
Now, your problem may be in any of those points. I would say this is the most probable failure order: cable came loose on the connector in wheel rim PCB, some of the wires got damaged, or a dead shift register chip. These are the points where you might find a problem and fix it. The problem might even be on the main PCB itself. If so, unfortunately, nothing can be done.
G27 has 6 buttons, 2 paddle shifters and 5 LEDs (10 total). Not exactly sure how they wired the shift registers, I never opened it. At least on G29 wheel rim they have 3 of these chips. You say 1 paddle shifter is still working. Did the other buttons just stop working all at once?
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