You are absolutely right. Well, I believe this is some remnent of the very early development of LFS (started in 2002), when FFB has just been around very shortly (introduced 1999). This setting has not been changed since. I guess devs gave themselves a bit of the headroom. At the time there were barely any FFB wheels and all had very low res 8bit FFB, which still does not explain why they scaled it that way, but it probably had to do with the inability of FFB wheel to reproduce any low forces, so there was a compromise to clip everything from mid to high forces, such that you can have some feel in low forces.
FFB strength in LFS before clipping for some cars gets as low as 35%. The game offers up to 200% FFB strength and this is ridiculously high as pretty much all forces are clipped. So values from (35-200)% are absolutely not usable for any wheel and mind you this is >83% of the wasted adjustment range. Even with T300 or G29 I'm using (8-21)% depending on a car and track combo.
There are two solutions:
[1] make FFB strength parameter into a floating-point number (if it is not already) and allow adjustment of at least up to 2 decimal places, or just simply rescale the parameter by multiplying with about 5.0 internally.
[2] after reworking the physics engine, please do some rescaling of FFB strength such that for most of the cars on average the clipping point is at about 100% FFB strength.
FFB strength in LFS before clipping for some cars gets as low as 35%. The game offers up to 200% FFB strength and this is ridiculously high as pretty much all forces are clipped. So values from (35-200)% are absolutely not usable for any wheel and mind you this is >83% of the wasted adjustment range. Even with T300 or G29 I'm using (8-21)% depending on a car and track combo.
There are two solutions:
[1] make FFB strength parameter into a floating-point number (if it is not already) and allow adjustment of at least up to 2 decimal places, or just simply rescale the parameter by multiplying with about 5.0 internally.
[2] after reworking the physics engine, please do some rescaling of FFB strength such that for most of the cars on average the clipping point is at about 100% FFB strength.
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
well, as it is now, the devs did nothing to solve this problem yet, but the plan is to start working on new physiscs, so ffb interface might be revisited and you may be able to use that wheel in lfs
+1 for this, I would love to see +-1 increments instead of +-5. I always need to enter the options screen when I want to do small ffb strength changes during a race and that is not convenient, especially because the ffb is lost and the menu text makes me crash due to poor visibility 7 times out of 10
Tnx Scawen for the updates. Please pul the plug on the mods-related updates, it is a rabbit hole, it's time for physics (another major rabbit hole).
If everything fails, here is what I did. For a particular track just take the closest standard car to the mod you want to AI and copy its kwn file and rename it to the mod name which you can find as a skin ID. Then AI's will have a path but they will have to re-optimize it, so expect some crashes at some turns, but after a few laps, they should be ok. If you race against them that would be even better, because they can learn some new stuff when you are overtaking them.
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
Unplug the wheel and try different usb port. Do not use any third party usb hubs, connect straight to USB 2.0 motherboard port. Unplug any other game device before plugging back in the G29.
It happened sometimes to me that in G-hub the wheel was not recognized, even though startup calibration procedure went well and there was a windows sound of new device plugged in.
It happened sometimes to me that in G-hub the wheel was not recognized, even though startup calibration procedure went well and there was a windows sound of new device plugged in.
It's getting much better man, well done. The dashboard, steering wheel and gear stick are great. I would like the roll cage to be a bit higher, just above the windscreen, otherwise, it will not be safe in case of a crash, the shattered glass may hurt the driver. It will also help by not obstructing the view from inside. If you can angle the front roll cage bars a bit to be parallel with the side windscreen frame, that would also help.
If you can add a configuration without a roll cage would be a nice touch. Some more detailed interior textures would be nice as well. You can move the entire dashboard even more up such that everything is visible with default view and fov.
About the engine, would be good to tune cam timing a bit such that it has more torque at higher revs and that it can be a better match for FXS or XRT. Do not worry too much about matching it with our LX3 in multiclass server, it needs to be a competitor in TBO class.
If you can add a configuration without a roll cage would be a nice touch. Some more detailed interior textures would be nice as well. You can move the entire dashboard even more up such that everything is visible with default view and fov.
About the engine, would be good to tune cam timing a bit such that it has more torque at higher revs and that it can be a better match for FXS or XRT. Do not worry too much about matching it with our LX3 in multiclass server, it needs to be a competitor in TBO class.
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
Actually, LFS has a very good gamepad support. You can do everything that is physically possible, except for speed sensitive steering. Either use nonlinear steering with a full lock or reduce lock and use linear steering which I recommend.
The best way to use gamepads in LFS is just to reduce the car's wheel lock. For example XFG has 30deg max lock and if you set it to about 12deg or so and do not use wheel turn compensation, you will have a precise and linear steering. You have to experiment for each car and track, pit exit may be more difficuilt and if you lose control, there will be little to no chance to do big corrections, but that is the price you have to pay if you use 8bit (logitech) or 10bit (xbox) controller axis for steering.
The best way to use gamepads in LFS is just to reduce the car's wheel lock. For example XFG has 30deg max lock and if you set it to about 12deg or so and do not use wheel turn compensation, you will have a precise and linear steering. You have to experiment for each car and track, pit exit may be more difficuilt and if you lose control, there will be little to no chance to do big corrections, but that is the price you have to pay if you use 8bit (logitech) or 10bit (xbox) controller axis for steering.
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
ddos attack and related problems..
Nice, but what happens if the ball goes outside of the field? Who will go and get it?
Just go in host options and set it back to demo and restart it.
Yes, tnx. It's a bit weird choice for axis assignments, but it's ok, it is arbitrary and should not matter, all good there.
If you click on it in LFS under detected controllers, axis are still not moving? Sorry man, at this point I have no more ideas.
If you click on it in LFS under detected controllers, axis are still not moving? Sorry man, at this point I have no more ideas.
Can you please send a picture from windows game controllers once you select it and press properties?
If you open up that 3D printed box, you may find out that it contains Arduino Micro + ADS1115 module. Or it may have some other MCU like esp32 or stm32.
Does it show up in windows game controllers? In device manager, does it show up as a virtual COM port?
Does it show up in windows game controllers? In device manager, does it show up as a virtual COM port?
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
Yes, make your own controller with Arduino Micro.
https://github.com/vospascal/pedal-arduino
https://github.com/vospascal/pedal-arduino
Nop, the car is just too big, look at the driver
Love the car, great job, it handles great, the sound is great
The aspect ratio of the dashboard and scaling of the car size needs fixing.
The aspect ratio of the dashboard and scaling of the car size needs fixing.
Hello, a node is disconnected from our servers:
[AA] Rallycross GTI
[AA] Blackwood FBM
[AA] Rallycross GTI
[AA] Blackwood FBM
Well, the most logical is that the hosting providers are giving revenge for losing some money due to hosting scheme change after the update.
Pathetic indeed. However, I'm happy to see that our team had the most drivers in the race, go AA
Pathetic indeed. However, I'm happy to see that our team had the most drivers in the race, go AA
Oh man, I was waiting for this since the dawn of mods Thank you so much for working on it. Finally AA Porsche Cup server get its car.
Thank you so much for working on it. Finally AA Porsche Cup server get its car.Hi man, thank you for this explanation. I have already tried both ways before asking how to do it and I was not able to do it. I am providing what happens in a zip file, where I put 3 images. The first is after dragging my picture to the "drag files here", it just gets stuck saying uploading. The second is after clicking on choose files and selecting my pic, while the 3rd is after pressing "upload/update" button. I am logged into the forum and I have no idea what is the problem. I was never able to upload any picture this way on this forum and I can successfully do it on every other forum which I use.
https://ufile.io/mdugyi9s
Something like this would be great.
https://ufile.io/m31ee764
https://ufile.io/m31ee764
Last edited by rane_nbg, .
Hello Scawen, I hope that you will read my post this time and do something about the request to implement some way of showing the current FFB magnitude, such that we can optimally set up our wheels and avoid clipping.
Would be good to use the space where you have the fps graph and add one more that will show the force, it does not have to be hi-res, the class you used for fps is good enough.
At the very least, any FFB clipping indicator like the one for audio is also a good start.
Would be good to use the space where you have the fps graph and add one more that will show the force, it does not have to be hi-res, the class you used for fps is good enough.
At the very least, any FFB clipping indicator like the one for audio is also a good start.
Your button debounce value is way too high. If you set it to 200ms, that means that during that interval you are not gonna be able to press the same button twice, or any other. Why it is different in 0.6U than in 0.7A I do not know.
Very nice, next get yugo koral 55 from sketch fab and pimp it for LFS
First of all, for all wheels you should set FF steps to 10000 and FF rate to 100Hz. Now, if you do not have ffb, this happends sometimes after you do the alt+tab or if you mess with wheel control panel, the fix is just to press shift+c in lfs to reinitialize controlers and FFB should come back up. If the FFB is not initialized the wheel sets the autocentering spring, while as soon as the game takes over there should not be any FFB in the menu, but should be on the track. About strength I would not set more than about 20% in LFS, to avoid clipping, some cars may even go up to 35% but that's it, after that it clips heavily and you lose FFB details.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG