Quote from Woz :

Yes you are right, why learn to blip. It would be far better for you to just load up an AI and then watch it drive "in car".

Doing that means not only are the blip and cut done for you but you don't even have to worry about any of the controls, all of which are hard to "master" if you want to drive fast.

See how much easier it is to play now

Now a serious note: LFS is a hardcore sim that is not intended to aid the drivers. This is stated ON THE WEBSITE. This means you have to drive, not the computer for you.

Driving a car fast takes skill. It is not like PGR or GT4. This is a fact of life that is reflected in LFS

You don't get it. If I had the option to be able to blip, I would. Why would I run out and buy a shitty wheel, or a $300 G25 when the game was perfectly fine with the blip?

Quote from wien :

Well, not everyone will blip correctly now that they have to do it themselves. So it's not like you'll be the only one. If you're really desperate it's also completely possible to use a button to blip the throttle while braking. Harder of course, but I don't see why you should get an unfair advantage over people actually trying to master this skill by themselves just because of your choice of controller. If the setting is there, why would anyone that's trying to go fast ever turn it off?

This can go both ways... Why should the people that CAN blip have the advantage of doing it?

list updated... Its getting huge.. O_o

Quote from wien :

Why? It's not like it's impossible to drive without blipping on downshifts. All you lose is a tiny bit of stability under braking. Compared to leaving it in and thus removing any benefit for people actually able to do this correctly I think that's a small price to pay.

Yes I can drive without, but I will never be as fast as I was with it. I just have to brake way earlier than everyone else.

Well for the realism sake then.. Why do we have the readouts like F9 and F10? Tire heat and suspension damage. You don't get to see how hot your tires are irl, or how badly damaged your suspension is after you hit that wall...

I also drive with a joystick.. I have the combined axis for throttle/brake.. So no more bliping Seriously, if they want to make the game more realistic, keep adding the clutch, engine heat, brake fade, but let us have our handicap options... Thats like a slap in the face removing the blip on downshift.

Quote from JeffR :

It holds water if there are cars in LFS with more power, more traction than his car. I analyzed his video. The tires start making noise at about 3500 rpm, 5.75 seconds into the video. He shifts out of 2nd gear at 15.5 seconds into the video for a 0 to 60mph run in 9.75 seconds, and there are quite a few car in LFS that can do better than this.

Well the clutch isn't fully released till about 4500rpms.. 0-55 is actually 60mph because the snow tires are an inch larger than stock which makes the speedometer read slower. 0-60 on my summer tires is 6 seconds flat according to a datalog. But this isn't about how slow my car is.

There are numerous amounts of clutch materials... Im sure all the road cars in lfs would have an organic clutch.

Quote :

Organic: Metal-fiber woven into "organic" (actually CF aramid with other materials), original-equipment style. Known for smooth engagement, long life, broad operating temperature, minimal-to-no break in period. Will take hard use, somewhat intolerant of repeated abuse (will overheat). Will return to almost full operational condition if overheated. Material is dark brown or black with visible metal fibers.

Kevlar: High-durability material more resistant to hard use. Engagement is similar to organic, but may glaze slightly in stop and go traffic, resulting in slippage until worn clean when used hard again. Higher temp range in general, but can be ruined from overheating; will not return to original characteristics if "cooked". Material is uniform yellow/green and may look slightly fuzzy when new.

Ceramic: Very high temperature material. Engagement is more abrupt. Will wear flywheel surface faster, especially in traffic situations. Due to it’s intrinsic properties, ceramic has a very high temperature range. Material is any of several light hues - gray, pink, brown.

Feramic: This unique clutch material is one that incorporates graphite and cindered iron. The result is a friction material that offers good friction coefficient, torque capacity, and smoothness of engagement.

Carbon: Very high temperature material. Engagement is more abrupt. Will wear flywheel surface faster, especially in traffic situations. Slightly more durable and flywheel-friendly compared to other aggressive clutch materials. Material is black.

Sintered Iron: Extremely high temperature material. Engagement is extremely harsh and is generally considered an “on/off switch” both due to it’s characteristics and the clutch types this material is generally associated with. It requires a special flywheel surface. Material is metallic gray in color.

http://www.xproductionz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=948

Quote from March Hare :

Are you using similar gear ratios in both RL and LFS? Are the HP of the RL car and LFS car similar? Are the torque curves similar? What about weight and distribution? What about the grip of the tyres?

If even one is a "no" your argument doesn't hold water.

Sure it does. The tires I run are practically road legal slicks... Far more grippy than any road tire in lfs.

A clutch should be able to take a decent amount of abuse. For say, the stock clutch in my car is rated to handle an engine producing 300ft/lbs of torque.. About double what the engine currently produces. Like the RB4 for example. Should have a very strong clutch, since it is an awd car. I owned a 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS for ~ 6months. The clutch in that car was like something you would find in a a truck. I did have fun in it though, some high rpm launches and what not and the clutch never glazed.

Ill just drop in a video of how I do a launch at every autocross race...

http://www.area51.infiniteorigin.com/Corrado/060corrado.wmv

Only difference from that is that I have way sticker tires on (not snow tires), and the clutch is rode out a bit longer... I have yet to smell the clutch burning or glaze it... I tried the same thing in a few of the cars in lfs and the clutch just got red right away. So the heat I would say is pretty close, but still needs a bit of improvement.

this is retarded.. you can have really fast AI, or give them a crappy setup so they are slow...

Fail.

updated the list.. I think i got everyone so far.

woa where did this thread come from :|

Quote from Arni Arnason :

Never use wireless, that means packetloss for sure.

That is not true. I am connected wireless to my router. Never have a problem with packet loss.

Same problem here.

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=35705

Quote from (FIN)Eza :

14.18s [email protected], that's one old time.. Got under 14s with 3.8GhZ but can't remember anymore how much under it was so 14.18s stays

Orthos/prime stable?

Quote from Jakg :

EDIT - Roadie, in case i get bored tommorow, what is your CPU clocked to...? And what's your RAM running at?

*plans evil DDR1200 450 FSB 3.2 GHz+ plan*

3.4Ghz
945mhz (5-5-5-15)

EDIT: Yeah, I used to get 14's in XP.

Last edited by Roadie, Tue, 1 Jan 2008 00:10.

tl:dr

Cliffs?

Quote from dropin_biking :

My score is getting pwned really bad
~Bryan~

You don't have a score. You never read the thread and ran 256k not 1M like you are supposed to.

EDIT: and if you guys just say about 1 minute or whatever I won't put you on the list.

Well I can boot at 3.6+ ghz and pull like 12s.. but thats all I can do. Open up anything like a game and bsod.

Quote from Jakg :

16 seconds, no proof i'm afraid.

If you want some proof then i'll end going and installing an nLite'd copy of XP and seeing if i can go for 3.2 GHz+ unstably.

Don't cheat. It has to be stable.

List updated

Bumped my memory speed up to 945mhz.

So lets see how fast you guys can calculate Pi to the 1M digit.

Heres what you do.

1. Go to http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/
2. Download Super Pi Mod
3. Extract it to a folder
4. Open the program and click on calculate.
5. Select 1M, let it calculate. Don't do anything while it is working.
6. Post results here.

User Results:

-Harogeo - 12.125ss
-kaynd - 12.391s
-Gmm - 12.948s
-(FIN)Eza - 14.180s
-garph - 14.063s
-Roadie - 15.380s
-srdsprinter - 16.000s
-Jertje - 16.094s
-h3adbang3r - 16.255s
-Jakg - 16.375s
-anik360 - 16.687s
-DeKo - 17.400s
-Eleanor SpeedGT - 17.392s
-GloryJ - 17.889s (Linux)
-yozzer - 18.266s
-Dooonster - 19.016s
-DeKo - 19.700s
-mcintyrej - 20.500
-anik360- 20.719s
-Drifting101 - 21.434s
-Bladerunner - 22.261s
-ajp71 - 22.291s
-MINIz Guy - 23.766s
-wheel4hummer - 24.063s
-GloryJ - 24.344s
-rc10racer - 25.829s
-MINIz guy - 26.032s
-NitroNitrous- 26.937s
-baSh0r - 30.503s
-Mazz4200 - 34.000s
-hardcoreobscure- 35.656s
-BlakjeKaas - 35.800s
-Dennisjr13 - 35.844s
-Btoryo - 37.373s
-Mysteroius - 37.735s
-Crashgate3 - 38.000s
-e2mustang - 39.468
-DieKolkrabe - 44.158s
-LFSn00b - 46.722s
-halo - 47.235s
-micha1980de - 49.000s
-dougie-lampkin - 49.594s
-Takumi_LFS - 51.000s
-sgt.flippy - 52.390s
-shaun463 - 55.578s
-MataGyula - 56.281s
-scoobyrbac - 57.672s
-jaws99 - 01m
-Yaamboo - 01m 16.485s
-marzman - 1m 14.625s
-evilgenius - 02m 13.862s
-[RCG]Boosted - 01m 31.000s (Linux)
-dropin_biking - 03m 12.656s

Last edited by Roadie, Sat, 19 Jan 2008 18:33.

my desktop.

Coretemp