you should also be able to adjust ur brakes a bit better so it's harder to lock them, and use the pulse braking method a bit (it's hit and miss, but worth a shot)
I still flatspot with pedals when i brake to hard and don't allow for road conditions/bumps etc

IMHO, being as he has a ballpark to work off from the standard motor (albeit wet sump was something like 30-76psi wasn't it?) oil pressure @ 5000rpm, and u know the relief valve cuts in at 80psi, i'd say work out something in the middle of that you're happy with (so 30-40psi sounds pretty bang on, but i'm not a mechanic, and would take no responsibility for any info used lol. It does kinda make common sense, but getting hold of Tom's would be a big help, being as they would have a pretty good idea of what their dry sump kit should be doing on what motor at what revs (you'd think?)

Quote from tristancliffe :

It's not a bad idea. I wonder if that is likely to be closer to reality than my first method, as the hydrodynamic oil wedge will be quite different to a static floating condition...

I'd love to run several engines, all at different rpm, under lateral G, gradually lowering the oil pressure until each fails. But alas I only have two engines (one in use, one a spare that we don't want to use if we don't have to), and a very limited budget. Hence finding out everything we can, from chassis behaviour and setup balance, to fuel behavious in the float chambers etc. Yes, it's all very simplified, but gradually you build up a picture of simplifiedness versus real life on-track experience (with some LFS-learnt theory too ), and come out at pretty close to the right answers.

At least, that's how it's worked over the last two years, and going from the back of the grid 2 years (and one day) ago to winning a championship 8 months ago, to instantly being on the pace of the experienced Dallara people 6 weeks ago (and hopefully again two weeks from now).

At Snetterton, during our test day, we experienced low oil pressure (I forget the actual figure, but worryingly low) in the two left hand bends - braking for the Esses and turning through Russells. This was traced to the car being underfilled, but no harm was done (phew). At the race meeting at the same circuit the pressures stayed much higher, but still a little low for comfort - only on left hand bends it seems, as though the dry sumping arrangement, which isn't easily modified, isn't good enough to maintain oil flow/pressure in left handers.

Mallory, the next race, is primarily right handers, but does have one fast left hander of any significance. Donington has a couple of left handers that might be a problem. Croft has two or three places where a problem might occur. Silverstone has one, and then back to the relatively safe Snetterton... I'd like to kill a potential problem before it does anything bad - but to know if we do actually have a problem I wanted to know what the minimum oil pressure is to ensure that the oil gets where it needs to be (and I was under the impression that overcoming 'centrifugal force' was the only requirement for oil pressure really.

My Dad has done a calculation, taking a small mass of oil at several different radii, and adding up the pressures to come to a value of 36psi at 7000rpm. This adding up of chunks is essentially what integration is, which is why I thought it might be possible to get a more accurate figure via mathematics... And I still hope to (as I don't fully trust his method yet).

Interesting i got told the v8 supercars over here run around 35psi oil pressure...

You could always just ring Toms (or whoever manufactured your pumps) and ask them. Or, perhaps another driver in your class with a similar setup? lol all those formula's would have broken my mind long ago

True Compressor surge due to turbo being too big for the engine

Not really to do with BOV's but edumacational anyway. And nasty :/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU&fmt=18

the holes in the wheels are not a bug.

yeah re producable 8800GT alpha dog Core2 duo 1.8ghz

I dunno how important it is tho, it disappears only if you're in the right spot.

IIRC BOV's, when setup correctly, eliminate compressor surge on lift off of accelerator. Has nothing to do with lag. Also, most factory cars have a plumb back BOV (for emissions requirements) and they are pretty quiet, but LFS does simulate it. (the race cars have quiet BOV's, but it's there)

Use Shift+A to bring up the sound menu, and turn it up/reduce the muffler effect on the Dump Valve.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffj01k64AZI

Last edited by senn, Fri, 8 May 2009 16:09.

i seem to recall that bug first being reported about the same time as Anti Aliasing was introduced (along with the white lines that appear in the track @ the texture joins. I could be wrong tho, anyone confirm?

IIRC thats just a gfx thing, not a test patch related bug. i'm pretty sure...

just tried it here on 3 hosts, Z, Z3 and Z10, nothing noted.

VVTL-i just kicked in yo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFz9F8re_QU&fmt=18

or if you prefer an automatic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=we8iU-CocAQ&fmt=18





(yes i know this isn't what it is)

Last edited by senn, Fri, 8 May 2009 03:24.

LOL @ demo racer rage @ lack of VWS.

I'd just be happy if we got another compatible test patch before i have to go back to work next week. Nothing worse than test patch releases when you can't use them :P (here's hoping the Devs are feeling generous this weekend)

nfi, but it would be interesting to know what the oil press regulator valve is capped at... that would give you a high point..

i honestly have nfi on the tolerance for it, i'm not a mechanic, just a toyota fan

Also there was a change in generation of 3S motors between 93(gen2) and 94(Gen 3), so might pay to get specifically which your engine is.

http://www.beams-redtop.com/history.htm

Brief history on the 3S series.

Last edited by senn, Fri, 8 May 2009 00:12.

now, i don't know what year your 3s-ge is, but here is a Toyota Repair Handbook for 1993 Celica ST202 and SW20 MR2 3S-GE

Refer Page 393, it only specs idle and 5000rpm, but it's a start i spose.

http://www.celicagt.nl/Docs/st202_rm396e.pdf

i will ask on the toymods forums, and see if anyone there can help. Might take a while for a reply as its only 630am here But i'll see what i can do.

i can't help with the calculations, but what kinda engine is it? Dry sump or not? If wet sump, is it baffled? Surely someone has minimum specs for this engine somewhere?

i enjoyed DiRT, even tho it was an "arcade" game the physics were pretty good. Looking forward to the 2nd one.

some of us enjoy ALL the aspects LFS can offer, Cruise, Race, Drag, Drift.
Anything that can be done to increase the number of people who use LFS is a good thing IMHO. As long as it stays true to it's roots.

Quote from mogster :

Hello all. Long time no anything Here's new Fazer (once again) starting to form:

yum. just yum.

download patch Z stable, and install it somewhere else (you can just backup the Z10 LFS.exe, and copy the Z stable LFS.exe in to your main LFS directory, so u can switch easier. But for the tweaks to take effect you generally have to pit, and change cars (or at least thats been my experience with the latest tweak.)

New test patch...



Edit - this is a lighthearted jab. nothing more

sure why not lol :P

Quote from gruggy :

im on the supra forum i just wanted to chat on here for a change.
thanks anyway.

There was a GA70 Supra with 1g-gte that went on Toymods forums for 3.5k this week in perth. Also a wrecked ma70 too i think...

Don't forget road tyres are a completely differnet kettle of fish there too, read - Steel Belted Radials
i don't think LFS simulates the way metal holds heat does it? (i'm asking, this is not a statement of fact etc etc)

EDIT - IIRC Race tyres don't have steel belts...but i could be wrong on this..

Last edited by senn, Tue, 5 May 2009 15:24.

Taken from LFS Manual

Tyre temperature & wear


Tyre temperature & wear


[F9] The F9 display shows four small windows each containing a 2D profile of a tyre, some numbers and three grey bars.
There are six areas in the diagram - three contact patches, the sidewalls and the air temperature. Each area goes from dark blue (cold) through green (ideal) and into red (overheated). There is also black, but that is only shown inside the tire after a blowout or puncture. Above the tyre diagram, there is a set of three numbers, which give the exact temperature of that tyre part. However, these numbers only represent the average temperature of the whole contact patch (from the inside up to the surface) - if you press and hold Ctrl+Shift, you can see the the actual surface temperature, which rises and falls much more quickly during a race. Bear in mind that since the tyre diagram only shows the top section of the corresponding tyre, a 'flat spot' on a spinning wheel is represented by little flashes of red.
At the top of each window there is a set of moving grey bars showing the footprint pressure of the tyre on the road. The display gives a good idea of how much camber (lean) the wheels have at any given point in time. With most cars there is a change in camber when the body rolls in a corner, but in order to find the most grip the wheel needs to be upright (relative to the road surface), when the bars are level the wheel is vertical to the road.
Last but not least we have a little brown bar that appears inside the tyre diagram, this brown bar refers to the amount of dirt on the tyres. Dirt reduces grip by a huge amount and therefore you should be more careful after a even a tiny 'off' - it can take a few corners to clean your tyres up again.

http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Display

but yeah the tyres are a little gripless at high temp, but i've never gotten tyres to 170c, so i couldn't tell you what they are like