Last edited by nesrulz; Today at 02:25.

and my post was 2.20, so i didn't see what you'd edited, now did i?

Anyway, yeah i've never had this screensaver/power save issue running Vista32, and my screensaver time is set pretty low, so i dunno what to say *shrug*

well ok, why does your monitor need to shut off after 2 minutes? Does it really need that much protection so you don't get image burn? If you want a problem fixed, sometimes the easy solutions are the best. Turn off auto power off, and use screen saver (as you said screen saver is fine)

That way your games won't get interrupted. I run Vista 32, and have auto power off, but haven't had this issue, so i dunno, maybe your PC is weird.

don't use auto power off? Learn to use the on/off button on the front of your monitor. Or don't set it for such a low amount of time...

nice car...

hah that guy should count himself lucky he isn't in jail being raped by bubba.

i don't know alot about this stuff, but wouldn't the fact the cars bodies in LFS are completely rigid, mean that we would generally run softer springs (thus making some settings copied from real life into the game, unrealistic) being as the suspension mount points don't "flex" like they do in real life... I know putting a strut brace on a real car makes a pretty big difference, i can only assume it works the same in LFS, with the bodies being completely rigid, almost like a race prepped car?

FZR? tramp it, clutch in, select first, release clutch when light goes green. That usually beats the FXR's off the line most of the time. IIRC, in drag trim it can beat an FXR off the line 99% of the time, spooled or not...

Last edited by senn, Mon 4 May 2009, 16:59.

thanks for clarifying your point much easier to understand now.

Quote from Matrixi :

Proof? Unfortunately I don't have a car in real life capable of doing these kind of tests, but if you consider what you have seen happen on those LFS hot tires being any way realistic, I'd strongly recommend a reality check.

This is exactly what I expected from this forum though, anything that happens in LFS is automatically realistic. No questions asked, ever.

Cold tyres have low grip, tyres grip better as they get warmer, until a point, and then they lose grip. Thats a fact. (and something i've experienced first hand in my own car)
Now, if you want to be taken seriously, and especially after saying what you did above, you can answer this question - On what information do you base your claim that LFS has "unrealistic" tyre modelling?

Thanks.

fix what?

i didn't auto flame you, i'm just trying to work out where you have gotten your info from? Was it an article or video? Can you give us something to compare this to?

can you offer any proof?

maybe i've missed the point, but if your tyres are too hot, they won't grip very well, which in your case is the "Hot" tyres. So i fail to see the issue?
Did you try the "hot" tests with the tyres surface green (optimal grip)?

Quote from klutch :

nitrous helps your motor, if you put two of them. Two of the big ones, then you'll blow the welds on your intake.

danger to teh manifold

Last edited by senn, Sun 3 May 2009, 16:34.

IF i'm correct i forfeit

Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4

Yeah FZ is a RR (rear engined/Rear wheel drive) layout...which is why it can be a bit of a handful on liftoff..

:bump: I'll just leave this up the top, where it belongs, shall i?

If you are going to rebuild the motor, you might as well put some better bits in it for security, and possible future mods. Otherwise you just end up doing it later, at extra cost. But again, it all depends on Budget and goal of the finished product. I know someone who turboed a CA18DE, and only ran an intercooler, he blew engines every 6-9 months, but at $500 an engine, he didn't care.

Last edited by senn, Sat 2 May 2009, 14:41.

I run Toyo Proxes PX4's (205/50/R15) . They were about $145 AUD a corner, They are essentially the best thing i could get for the road(and budget) without going to CompR (semi slick) type tyres. I would say, if u are running stock suspension, they would be pretty good balance of cost and performance. If you have upgraded suspension tho, i'd probably be looking at semi slicks.

Last edited by senn, Sat 2 May 2009, 14:39.

Quote from moskvich3v1 :

wow i thought that fxo is straight 4

Incorrect. FXO is a Horizontally opposed "Boxer" 4cyl, as found in most Subaru's. (Think a V4, but with the 2 cylinder banks laying flat, instead of in a Vee config)

I'm in a couple of MR2 clubs, and a lot of the people run Water to Air intercoolers in the Mk1's (better than heat soaking the standard cooler in the bay, no lag due to short piping, not having to worry about mounting the A2A cooler close so its doesn't lag/cutting bits out of the body etc) altho some have rear roof mounted air to air...

I've also seen them cut into the floor of the boot, and the top of the bootlid on MK2's

Standard I/C on Mk1 is over the engine, Mk2 i believe is one side, behind one of the rear vents.

Quote from feat :

I'm really, really surprised if you dont know about cars with IC's at the front. I mean, A LOT of cars have intercoolers at the front of the car.

Yeah, a lot of cars with the engine in the FRONT. In a car with the engine Mid mounted, or Rear mounted, having the intercooler piped all the way to the front causes massive lag issues, as the turbo/supercharger has to compress the air in the pipework to the front, cooler, and back again.

Water to air Tank on a MK2 MR2 (a water pump moves the water thru to a cooler, and back again, so the air being compressed is small(compared to A2A plumbed all over the place), reducing boost lag

Low Boot mount Cooler on a Mk2 MR2

Higher Boot mount cooler (with air scoop), Mk2 MR2
http://autospeed.com/cms/title ... cence/A_1789/article.html

Last edited by senn, Sat 3 Oct 2009, 15:36.

it will never happen, but +1 anyway for being able to build your own engine. And i mean the detailed kind, not the NFS kind. Would also need to be able to spec tyre size, driveline powerhandling etc (clutch/diff/axles)

I Vote this to be merged into the other 50 or so threads of a similar vain.

tweak the XRT instead, you're S2 licenced. Can't remember if you can change tyre size with the XRT tho, and i'm not on my PC so i can't check for you..

On another note, your name isn't Adam is it?(i used to know someone with the nick BOOSTD a long time ago...probably off IRC)

Good luck.

adhd? attention deficit hyperactivity disorder? lol :P

And yeah odl games you tend to look back on fondly...but they're generally pretty crap when you play the, (i'm talking most of the late 80's early 90's stuff, C64 mainly)...as thats what i had growing up, and still have lurking around the house somewhere..waiting 5 min for it to load a game doesn't appeal to me...or longer than that if i decide to use the Cassette drive.