Don't know too much about what site you could use to buy from in the UK...
Any Seagate drives I would recommend. I just know the Barracudas are what most people get (I have four!)
If you want to have a backup, there's certainly no harm in getting two of them and creating a Raid 1 setup. I've got four drives setup like this:
Drives 1 and 2 are linked to show up as 1 large drive, and same for 3 and 4. That way I see 1 640 Gb drive, and everything on that is mirrored onto another 2 drives in the same format. Gets you faster read/write times and redundancy in case a HDD ever fails, which is especially useful if you have Maxtor drives
For RAM, I will time and again recommend the Corsair DDR2-800 2x1Gb pack at 4-4-4-12 timings. Great RAM, great price.
As for the HDDs. Maxtor may have been the only drive to not fail on you, but they're the only drive to have managed to fail with everyone else, lol. Seagate Barracuda Perpendicular-Recording drives are the way to go - any size you want!
As for the cooler, I'm using this on my AM2 FX-62 - and it works like a charm!
No, in all seriousness though, try re-seating the RAM, and perhaps the CPU. Also, check that the CPU is being cooled correctly. Sounds almost like in the time it takes to boot to that point, your CPU may be getting too hot?
Other causes may be corrupt files in the registry - but IDK, or loose wires, or maybe even a bad PSU?
Well, there are a lot of times when a more predictable maneuver is desired. Besides, I think with a bit of practice, you can learn to be just as "predictable" when initiating a drift by flicking the car as you can be by pulling the handbrake. I personally don't find that flicking the car requires that much more skill than pulling the handbrake anyway. Sure the rear end slides out more abruptly, but if you really have a lot of trouble controlling it that way, you're not likely to fare THAT much better with the other method.
I managed to contact Austin Meyer - the main developer behind X-Plane, and asked him the question we've been arguing about here, and pointed him to this forum. Here is his reply:
Exactly. Use Wikipedia as a starting point, and be sure and double check the information you get. Wikipedia is the greatest source of information on the internet at current.
Three things affect the prices of different graphics cards:
1. Manufacturer - Obviously, there will be fluctuations in prices between manufacturers, with lesser known brands generally selling their cards for a bit cheaper. I wouldn't go with anything other than Asus, EVGA, PNY or the other big brands... mainly because they offer great support should you have any problems. Asus cards in particular always seem to be a bit more expensive than EVGA and PNY - so try for one of those two. EVGA even has a great "step-up program" allowing you to swap a card for a newer one down the road and save some money on the upgrade.
2. Clock speed - Most manufacturers sell a few different versions of their cards at different speeds. Check the site (I looked at a few - and they seemed to be the same) and see what the clock speeds are on the cards. 600 Mhz is the standard clock speed. You will pay higher ($20-$30 usually) for, say 650 Mhz and more for 700. Basically, you are paying the extra price for a card that comes overclocked from the factory - so it's faster, but still fully covered under warranty, and pretty much guaranteed to work fine. I had a bit of trouble reading the site, but they all seemed clocked at 600/1800 Mhz - except one which was 500 Mhz for some reason.
3. Bundled software - Sometimes it's impossible to figure out why two absolutely identical cards sell for a $30 difference in price, because you are completely overlooking the fact that one of them comes bundled with a game (say, Crysis.) If you want the game, you may as well get the bundled one as it saves you money.
The S-mode does make a huge difference. As for the rubbery feeling, I've driven my dad's car and I know exactly what you mean. I think the problem is largely due to the drive-by-wire system which has one of the strangest non-linear gas pedals ever invented. There's a dead spot at first (on purpose - dunno why), and then the next bit increases power in a strangely exponential way (all over the course of a zillionth of an inch) - which gives it that rubbery feeling of being "slingshotted." I hate it, but my dad says that after a bit of driving you get used to it. I don't know why they did that though (maybe to make it smoother instead of such a jerky start under hard acceleration?) because it makes the car difficult to drive smoothly in stop and go traffic.
Well then that means that 86% of the time, the facts you look up on Wikipedia will be fake, as opposed to 85.14% of the facts you look up on other sites. So that means that there is a 0.86% chance that the stuff you found on Wiki would have been correct if researched from somewhere else. Hardly worth the extra effort.
In Firefox, if you type about:cache?device=disk in the address bar, you should be able to find the video somewhere there - and then you can right click and save. It takes a bit of looking though. Also, you don't want to right click on the first link. Click on that, and it will bring you to a page detailing that object, and present you with another link - which is the one on which you should right-click and select Save As.
Nope. Stupidity is having a bad experience and then assuming that all other vehicle types from all other years from the same company must be terrible cars. And considering how many people swear by Audi and how many raving reviews their cars have recieved, I'd be likely to think that you either cannot drive, or you happened to have a bad experience with a malfunctioning vehicle.
My Subaru had a head gasket defect, which caused the car to overheat in the middle of the mountains in sub-zero weather, leaving us stranded when trying to return home from vacation, and making us miss the beginning of school after break. However, my next car will be a Subaru because I know that my particular model engine was the one with the defect, and that Subaru has not only fixed this, but continues to get fantastic reviews as being some of the best cars on the road.
Well that's what I meant to say - that I hate the argument - though to be honest, I think people who argue that point are generally not very open minded.
Unfortunately, X-Plane has just been upgraded to version 9 which means all the update history for version 8 has been taken off the site. I do remember then SPECIFICALLY stating that the tire physics would be good enough for a racing game.
As for air currents, disturbed air-flow close to the ground applies to aircraft too (ground effect.) And turbulence from other aircraft is also important when taking off behind other aircraft, flying in formations, or around varying terrain. All this is taken into account in X-Plane. And while there is the issue of tire physics which plays a much more important role in vehicle simulation, there are other factors in aircraft that do not apply to cars.
All I will say, is that the amount of things modeled in X-Plane at the moment truly dwarfs the Live for Speed vehicle model at this point.
I hate anyone who argues that point, because the fact of the matter is that 99% of the information on that site is not only extremely accurate, but much more useful than 99% of the other sites on the internet. I hate the "Wikipedia is open to everyone and therefore invalid" argument, because it just is not true anymore. Not only that, but there's nothing wrong with citing a Wikipedia source if you've done the research to validate the information you've found.