Hmmmm... well what about a skin with a few Type-R stickers placed at 45 degree angles?
I've found that thrusters, placed on each side of the car at a 45 degree angle, can seriously increase your drift speed if activated while in a drift.
I don't know how to solve your problem, but you wouldn't need to reinstall windows to install the correct drivers. That F6 option is only there because sometimes you cannot even INSTALL windows without the right drivers - but drivers are drivers and you can install/update them at any time.
I hate Dells... but hey, if it works for you - go for it!
Yeah, I have to say, automatic transmissions have become very smart lately. Consider the one in the Porsche, which got a raving review from a Formula 1 driver, and is actually faster to 60 than a manual. Even for towing now, there are new smart modes that don't select the wrong gear, and there are a growing number of cars nowadays which have all but eliminated the "hunting for the right gear" issue.
Besides, I really truly think an automatic makes more sense in most cars except real true sports cars. As I see it, until the day that I really get a good sports car, or a car that I plan on using as my weekend speed demon, I'll stick with an automatic. It makes more sense for daily driving.
Besides, I really truly think an automatic makes more sense in most cars except real true sports cars. As I see it, until the day that I really get a good sports car, or a car that I plan on using as my weekend speed demon, I'll stick with an automatic. It makes more sense for daily driving.
Ummmm... not? Aircraft have moving flight surfaces, and engines, and weather plays a much bigger role. There are also many more part failures to take into account, and things such as icing on the wings. X-Plane has a fairly sophisticated tire model for planes on the ground, as well as a "water model" for seaplanes. Whereas LFS only has to simulate downforce at a few spots, X-Plane models airflow over the entire surface of the aircraft, and lift points everywhere, including effects from propwash, turbulence, vortices, etc... One aiplane in X-Plane puts a much greater strain on the CPU than a car in LFS.
Last edited by Stang70Fastback, .
I once drive a Ford Focus - worst car I ever drove. The wheel fell off and I almost crashed. I will never buy a car, or drive anywhere again.
Does that help quantify the stupidity of your statement?
In the controls menu in the game, above the button configuration is a row of choices (mouse, keyboard, joystick, etc...) the last of which should say "shifter." Click on that, and then assign the shifter to the correct positions (first-sixth and reverse.) That might be your problem.
I don't know if this is possible, but it would be a nice touch if, when you were spectating a race, you automatically spec'd the car you bet on. For some reason, I always get the other one... unless that's done for a reason.
Yeah - I know - hence my stating 8600M (M - for mobile) as opposed to just 8600. My POINT is that if my card can handle it - his will be fine, since they are similar...
Bugatti Veyron
If my old 6800GT desktop card can run LFS at FULL (high-res texture upgrade) settings at 8x AA and 16x AS, at a resolution of 2560x1024 and still get more than 40 FPS 90% of the time... I'm sure an 8600M should be fine, lol.
If all you want to play is LFS, then I don't think waiting for the new platform will do much. Besides, you could just wait for the new platform after that, or the one after. That's just how it goes with technology. However, you may want to consider waiting if it means your computer will me much more future-proof.
You don't need a MASSIVE graphics card to run CAD programs until you get into REALLY complex parts. What's really important is the CPU. My Tablet with integrated X3100 graphics by Intel doesn't do too bad even when you open up files like "front suspension." Even then the framerate is no worse than 3-4 FPS - which doesn't sound FANTASTIC, but is more than enough when you're just working with the model. Unless he's modeling the Queen Mary 2 in full detail, he shouldn't need a MASSIVE GPU. The processor is what's really important.
Alright - I won't make it so loose that it falls off, lol. I'm really hoping this is a solution that wont involve anything more than a slight almost un-noticeable adjustment. Is this something that I can adjust when the engine is running? That way I can wait until a day that it starts squealing, and turn the bolt until it stops?
Well, the steering problem hasn't cropped up lately, but I've got yet another question. The belt has been squeaking lately, so I brought it over th AutoZone and asked the guy what I could get to put on it. He said that all of those belt-squeal eliminator sprays were a sham, and asked me to pop the hood. He had me start it, and he said to turn on the air conditioning. Sure enough, that stopped it. He explained that the belt was a bit too tight, and that turning on the A/C activated the second belt, which put pressure on the pulley in the other direction, making the first one stop squealing. He pointed to a single bolt on top of the engine and told me I could adjust the tension with that.
I'm very tempted to do it myself - he told me I should have 3/4" of play over 12" (similar to what JTbo said.) However, I don't want to break anything. I just want to know, what the worst is that could happen if I loosen it too much and it slips? I know I have an interference engine, which will be destroyed if the timing belt breaks - but that's not THIS belt, this is the drive belt correct? Is the worst that happens that the alternator, for example, stops working? Or will the engine stall and my car explode? If it's not dangerous, I'll try loosening it little by little until it stops squealing. If I could break something, I'll find someone else to do it.
Maybe this was the issue with all the noise I was hearing and you guys were right. I just assumed it wasn't because the belt was recently replaced, and seemed to have the right tension. Plus everywhere I look they talk about screeching noises coming from LOOSE belts, and mine is certainly not loose. I'm reading over the posts now and someone else here said that if the belt was too tight, some WD-40 would shut it up for awhile, and that's exactly what happens with mine. I'm still convinced that the power steering problem was a separate issue, but either way, I need to address this one.
I'm very tempted to do it myself - he told me I should have 3/4" of play over 12" (similar to what JTbo said.) However, I don't want to break anything. I just want to know, what the worst is that could happen if I loosen it too much and it slips? I know I have an interference engine, which will be destroyed if the timing belt breaks - but that's not THIS belt, this is the drive belt correct? Is the worst that happens that the alternator, for example, stops working? Or will the engine stall and my car explode? If it's not dangerous, I'll try loosening it little by little until it stops squealing. If I could break something, I'll find someone else to do it.
Maybe this was the issue with all the noise I was hearing and you guys were right. I just assumed it wasn't because the belt was recently replaced, and seemed to have the right tension. Plus everywhere I look they talk about screeching noises coming from LOOSE belts, and mine is certainly not loose. I'm reading over the posts now and someone else here said that if the belt was too tight, some WD-40 would shut it up for awhile, and that's exactly what happens with mine. I'm still convinced that the power steering problem was a separate issue, but either way, I need to address this one.
Last edited by Stang70Fastback, .
That's no excuse - I was in PHYSICS!
Ahaha - THAT'S where I heard it! I couldn't for the life of me remember...
That was sweet.
Was kind of hoping for some foam fireworks tho...
j/k
Was kind of hoping for some foam fireworks tho...
j/k
24.
But they didn't ask me about my baseball bat...
But they didn't ask me about my baseball bat...
I'll be watching during my physics lecture!
You, my friend, are an idiot. My way OBVIOUSLY works. I've done it many times. Your way won't work - and will likely lead to massive data loss.
Uh, I doubt hitting the hard drive will erase the password. I think you're just trying to get him to break his computer... You guys at too uptight. His dad could just be a jerk for no reason and he might need access to the computer for homework or something. Here's what you do.
1. You have to boot into BIOS screen when you first start the computer (usually by pressing the delete key or F2 or something continuously), and change the boot sequence so it boots from the CD first.
2. Find the Windows XP install CD that came with the computer, and boot from that.
3. Go through the setup instructions (NOT ALL THE WAY - OR YOU'LL WIPE THE WHOLE COMPUTER.)
4. After a few steps, it should give you the option to reformat the C: drive. Select that option, BUT ONLY ALLOW IT TO REFORMAT TO 50%. The first 50% of the hard drive is passwords and security settings. As soon as it gets to 50%, press the power button to instantly turn off the PC.
5. Reset the BIOS to boot from the hard drive, and you should be set!
Let me know how it works for you - and make sure to dust the CD for fingerprints when you're done, lol.
1. You have to boot into BIOS screen when you first start the computer (usually by pressing the delete key or F2 or something continuously), and change the boot sequence so it boots from the CD first.
2. Find the Windows XP install CD that came with the computer, and boot from that.
3. Go through the setup instructions (NOT ALL THE WAY - OR YOU'LL WIPE THE WHOLE COMPUTER.)
4. After a few steps, it should give you the option to reformat the C: drive. Select that option, BUT ONLY ALLOW IT TO REFORMAT TO 50%. The first 50% of the hard drive is passwords and security settings. As soon as it gets to 50%, press the power button to instantly turn off the PC.
5. Reset the BIOS to boot from the hard drive, and you should be set!
Let me know how it works for you - and make sure to dust the CD for fingerprints when you're done, lol.
The way I see it, global warming, if not caused by humans now, will be caused by us sometime in the near future, with the rate at which third-world countries are growing.
And I really don't think the government is LYING about global warming in order to justify putting up wind turbines and the like. There are plenty of other reasons that would work well for that effort...
...and besides, last I checked, the GOVERNMENT seemed highly against the idea of global warming existing (at least in America.)
And I really don't think the government is LYING about global warming in order to justify putting up wind turbines and the like. There are plenty of other reasons that would work well for that effort...
...and besides, last I checked, the GOVERNMENT seemed highly against the idea of global warming existing (at least in America.)
Yeah. Just don't go stating things so blatantly, because in all honesty, there is no hard evidence supporting either side to that argument that gives a definitive answer.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG