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atledreier
S3 licensed
All turbo cars have wastegates, and most have some sort of recycling valve that bleed off excess boost when it's not needed. They are not the same thing, though. In most cars this bleed valve vent back to the intake, and the valve is vacuum actuated. The difference between the stock bleedvalve and a dumpvalve is that the dump valve bleed air to the outside of the intake tubing, creating the characteristic hiss.
There should be no problem using a dumpvalve on an auto that wouldn't also present itself on a manual. You will not get the hiss on shifts though, as you don't lift between gears. You'd get it when you lift off, though.
atledreier
S3 licensed
They sure stack up, don't they?
atledreier
S3 licensed
Any chance there's a dedi for this? I'd love to put one up. If not I'll run it tonight on my main pc.

Edit: Found it, the dedi is integrated in the mainprogram. Server is running now, but I'm not sure which porsts need to be opened. I can host LFS dedis, but I'm not sure how to change the ports in this ancient version. there's no entry in the cfg that I can find.

Edit2: Says Offline, as the masterserver is not found. What's the switches for this version again? The readme is very limited.

Edit3: It's up. 81.166.171.14
Last edited by atledreier, .
atledreier
S3 licensed
Some very nice drifting in there! High speed, very looooong sweeps.. Nice!
atledreier
S3 licensed
You probably have a wheel you're gonna replace, right? Use the throttle from that as a clutch! There's a thread over at RSC about how you do it if you are unsure.
atledreier
S3 licensed
I run a few dedicated servers on my secondary machine, and play on my main rig. I can run as many servers as I want for free, but only one GUI server. The dedi is much less rescourse-intensive as well.
atledreier
S3 licensed
That's an AA issue. I have it too, and also in RBR with AA on. And only with high-res textures. Weird, but I can live with it.

ATI Radeon 9700PRO with cat 5.7
atledreier
S3 licensed
And like I said, our brains expect the forces to increase. When they don't, it's interpreted as less force. We're easily fooled by our own expectations.
atledreier
S3 licensed
Did you even read my post?
atledreier
S3 licensed
Which is?

It's simulating the forces acting through the steeering column, and it does that pretty accurately, it seems.
atledreier
S3 licensed
I did some tests today, in my real car.

It was wet, and I do have a fwd. Fairly wide, sticky tires. And all tests are done by feel. That means I did not actually measure any forces on the wheel. But I did concentrate on the forces, trying to exclude my seat-of-the-pants input.

Anyways:

Going straight, I had the normal centering forces, as well as doing a constant radius turn. The force required to keep the turn was increasing slightly as the radius got smaller.
Accelerating, I got a little bit of torque steer, and violent bucking if I got a little wheelspin. If I had a lot of wheelspin, the wheel went very light, and I lost all steering. These are all effects easily seen in LFS.

going straight, pressing the clutch so I was coasting, and the turning the wheel a fair amount resulted in the wheel getting harder and harder to turn, as per the constant radius turn, but at the point where wheelslip started to occur, the force stayed constant. However much more the wheel was turned, the force needed was constant.
During fwd power-on understeer, I got a fair bit of feedback as long as only the inner wheel was slipping (open diff), but once both wheels were slipping I had a very light wheel.

The surprising thing here is the fact that in a wheel-slip situation, the wheel-force was constant. In the beginning I thought the wheel got lighter, but then I started thinking about actual forces vs expected forces. I think the term 'the wheel goes light' is not the actualt fact, but the fact that the force needed increases up to a point, and then stays constant when you expect it to keep increasing.

Disclaimer: It could also be the wet surface, or my power-steering could mask out the effects, but I'm pretty certain my observations are correct under the prevailing conditions.

I'll get the flamesuit ready now, I think.
atledreier
S3 licensed
So it is! My bad, I should start to read posts properly before I open my virtual mouth. I keep getting feet in it!
atledreier
S3 licensed
Then you wouldn't be understeering, Bob...
atledreier
S3 licensed
Calling me a liar is not gonna get you very far, Steve. Settle down.
atledreier
S3 licensed
'Everybody' agree the FF in RBR is good. 'Everybody' agree the FWD FF in LFS is good. 'Everybody' agree RBR and LFS do FF the same way. All the cars in RBR have driven front wheels, no?
atledreier
S3 licensed
LFS needs the three monitors to act as one to be able to use them. That is not possible with the screens hooked to different cards, as fas as I know. If it is, please let me know, I'd set it up asap. One possibility is to use custom view and set it so that your central screen has got the main view, and your secondary monitor get one side. Would be like driving with your side window painted over, though.
atledreier
S3 licensed
I made one myself. Cost me next to nothing. Cheap USB gamepad and a few bits of wood and hardware, and a little effort in the shop. Works like a charm. I use the throttle off my old MSFF wheel along with my DFP pedals. It's great driving the road cars in LFS, and the GTL demo is very nice with the shifter and clutch. Too bad the physics suck.
atledreier
S3 licensed
With the latest drivers and the control centre you can span propertly. Problem is, the control center is so crappy that nothing else will work like it should. But spanning does.
If you download the drivers with the control panel, then you don't get proper spanning. Way to go, ATI.... illepall
atledreier
S3 licensed
Rofl!
atledreier
S3 licensed
That's true. But the set just suddenly felt right when I drove it, and I realized I had a lot of fuel in the car. And I have an endurancerace coming up, so I was experimenting with fuel loads vs laptimes. I am actually fastest by lap 3, jsut as the tires have reached working temperatures. I can push very hard right out of the pits on a full tank of fuel, and that is a neat trait in a setup. But still I lose the advantage as fuel is burned. I am gonna work out a compromise.
atledreier
S3 licensed
Thanks a lot. Seems I was on the right track after all, then!
atledreier
S3 licensed
Using the replay analyzer I see that I am running about the same speeds with the light car, and throttle is about the same too. So I really think the car acts differently. I might have to adjust my driving, but the effect is so pronounced, and the set is so good with heavy fuel that I'd rather sacrifice some high-fuel grip to get better low-fuel stability. I usually lose the car when the fuel is below 50%. The tires are fine, btw. It's not excessive wear. I'm usually pretty smooth and nice to my tires anyway. I set my car up to run fairly hot in the beginning of the race, so the tires reach optimum temps when they start to wear after 10-12 laps. Then I can push harder when the fuel-load decrease.
Fuel mass effect on suspension frequencies
atledreier
S3 licensed
Hi!
I have a set for the XRR that I really like. Well balanced, fairly grippy, good on tires. A good set. Problem is, when it get lighter fuel loads it goes all weird. I get oversteer at entry, understeer mid-corner, and slight oversteer at exit. No amount of ARB adjustment can fix this. What I was thinking was this:
Could it be that the weight of the fuel (100l / 70kg) is enough to throw the suspension frequencies off, so that my dampers mess me up? Should I go slightly softer to have lower suspension frequencies with a lighter load, and just try to adjust when the car is heavier? Could it be something else that's throwing me off? It really doesn't feel like it's just the balance of the car that's different. It's both ends of the car that's off, making me suspect the suspension. Maybe ColCob or Bob could have a say in this? What could cause this behaviour? If I knew,I'm sure I could compensate. Right now nothing seems to help. I only manage to mess up the set with a heavy load too, and not making it better when it's light. Any ideas, anyone?
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